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OPERATION
DRILLING
1. Always unplug the Drill when attaching or changing accessories.
2. Use sharp drill bits only. For WOOD, use twist drill bits, spade bits,
power auger bits or hole saws. For METAL, use high-speed steel
Wist drill bits. For MASONRY, such as brick, cement, cinder block,
etc., use carbide-tipped bits.
3. Be sure the material to be drilled is anchored or clamped firmly. If
drilling thin material, use a wood "back-up" block to prevent damage
to the material.
4. Center-punch an indentation at the point to be drilled. This will over¬
come the tendency of the bit to slip around on a smooth surface.
Place the tip of the bit in the indentation and turn the motor "ON".
NOTE: With Variable Speed Drills, holes can be started at low speed
without the need for center punching.
5. Always apply pressure in a straight line with the bit. Use enough
pressure to keep the drill biting, but do not push hard enough to
stall the motor or deflect the bit.
6. Hold the drill firmly to help control the twisting action of the drill.
7. IF THE DRILL STALLS, it is usually because it is being overloaded or
improperly used. RELEASE THE TRIGGER IMMEDIATELY, remove
the drill bit from the work, and determine the cause of stalling. DO NOT
CLICK TRIGGER OFF AND ON IN AN ATTEMPT TO START A STALLED
DRILL —THIS CAN DAMAGE THE DRILL.
8. To minimize stalling on breaking through the material, reduce pressure
on drill and ease the bit through the last fractional part of the hole.
9. Keep the motor running when pulling the bit back out of a drilled
hole. This will help prevent jamming.
10. Use a cutting lubricant when drilling metals. The exceptions are
cast iron and
brass which
should
be drilled
dry. The cutting
lubricants that work best are sulphurized cutting oil or lard oil; bacon
grease will also serve the purpose.
11. Holes in wood can be made with the same twist drills used for metal.
These bits may overheat unless pulled out frequently to clear chips
from the flutes. For larger holes, use Power Drill Wood Bits.
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