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Installation
Water discharge
The discharge hose can be placed in these three ways:
Over the top edge of a washtub:
Use this option only if you can be sure that the hose will
not move when the machine is draining. The hose can
be fixed to the wall on a hook or tied to the tap with a
string (Fig. 1).
Directly into a waste pipe with a trap:
The discharge pipe can be connected directly into the
pipe (e.g. one beneath a washtub or kitchen sink), above
the water trap. The discharge hose must be arranged
so that some part of it's length is routed up to a level
corresponding to the top edge of the tub and fixed in
place there (Fig. 2).
Directly into a wall standpipe:
This standpipe should be vertical. The height above the
floor should be between 650 and 800 mm.
There must be an air gap around and below the end of
the discharge hose. This means that the internal diameter
of the standpipe must be greater than the outer diameter
of the hose (Fig. 3). The hose must not be sticked into the
standpipe more than 50 mm and it has to be fixed in
this position.
The discharge hose can be extended up to total 3,5 m.
For the extension piece use a hose with an internal
diameter at least as large as that of the machine's own
hose. Use a suitable hose connector (Fig. 4).
In order for the machine to function properly,
the drain hose must be hooked on the factory
fitted support piece situated on top of the
back side of the appliance.
Electrical connection
The washing machine is supplied with a lead and elect-
rical plug for connection to a 230 V earthed wall socket,
which should be easily accessible and protected by a
10 A fuse. If the machine is installed in a "wet area"
(bathroom, laundry) but without fixed wiring to the
electrical supply, an earth leakage circuit breaker (or
RCD) must be used.
Before any work is carried out on the machine,
it must be isolated from the electric mains
supply, for example by removing the plug
from the wall socket.
Permanent electrical installation must be
carried out by an authorized electrician.
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