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HAIRLINE CRACKING CAUSES AND REPAIR
If hairline cracking occurs it can be easily addressed and a completely invisible installation can be achieved.
LineaResponse speakers are designed specifically to prevent the wallboard finish around the perimeter from cracking during
normal use. However, every installation is unique and installation conditions may arise that can result in cracking.
If fine hairline perimeter cracking does occur soon after installation, it is most commonly associated with insufficient drying
time of the base coat of joint compound.
layer is applied.
Any moisture retained in the base layer will continue to slowly dry and shrink slightly under the subsequent
layers of joint compound. This type of cracking does not typically appear at the seam between the wallboard and speaker,
rather at the chamfered edge of the speaker diaphragm about ¾" (19 mm) inward from the edge of the speaker frame.
Cracking may not be visible right away as it may take days or weeks for the base coat to completely dry.
The best way to prevent this type of cracking is to allow additional 24 hours of drying time for each layer of joint
compound, especially in areas where the construction environment is cold or damp.
CHEMICALLY CURING JOINT COMPOUNDS IS NOT ADVISED AND MAY ALSO LEAD TO CRACKING.
Repairing this type of hairline cracking should be done with standard wall-finishing techniques:
For smooth wall/ceiling finishes, use a sharp tool such as the corner of a chisel or utility knife to widen the crack to 1/16"
- ⅛" (2-3 mm)then fill/skim the affected area with lightweight joint compound or spackle. Use air-dry type compounds
only. Once completely dry, sand the area smooth and re-paint.
For textured or more forgiving finishes it is possible to repair the cracks with a water-based paintable caulk. Use a putty
knife or fingertip to push the caulk into the crack and wipe away the excess with a damp cloth. Allow to dry and then paint.
REMOVING AN INVISIBLE SPEAKER
LineaResponse invisible speakers are designed for a lifetime of maintenance free use. Once a speaker has been installed
and finished, it will most likely never need to be removed.
Because of their invisible nature, if a speaker does need to be removed, the first job is to locate it. Slide a paperclip or small
metal object around on the wall in the vicinity of the speaker until it is attracted to the magnetic field of the high frequency
driver. Mark this area and use it as a reference for locating the parameter screws. Next use a small magnet or screw finding
tool to locate and mark the parameter screws along all four edges. Pay attention to the pattern that develops.
Begin loosening the screws and the perimeter edge may begin to be visible about ¼" to ⅜" out from the screws. Use a
utility knife to find the edge of the speaker panel and cut around all four sides. Finish removing the screws and carefully
remove the panel.
REPLACING AN INVISIBLE SPEAKER
When installing a new speaker into the opening of a previously installed speaker keep
in mind that the seam finishing process for the original speaker has already been done.
This included build-up and feathering of joint compound to level the speaker face with the
surrounding wallboard. In order to allow for new seam tape and prevent adding another
layer of build-up which could be difficult to feather and become an eyesore a different
installation method must be used.
Do not use this method for brand new installation unless there is insufficient
space to properly feather a panel into the wall.
First, create a recess for the seam tape by making a shallow cut 1" (25 mm) around
the perimeter of the opening and peel back the first layer of wallboard paper. (See
photo at right.)
Next, test-fit the speaker panel and use a straightedge to check that the face of
the speaker panel is flush with the existing wall. If the speaker face is recessed,
apply the necessary amount of provided shims to the perimeter of the speaker to
make it flush. If the speaker is proud of the finished wall it may be necessary
to modify the underlying framing to achieve a flush fit.
Follow the guidelines
sure to avoiding warping or putting strain on the speaker face.
Apply seam tape and joint compound into the groove
feather beyond the outside edge of the groove created for the tape. Sand and finish per standard wallboard patch
techniques.
(See page 16)
REPAIR, REMOVAL & REPLACEMENT
It is critical that each coat of joint compound is completely dry before the next
(See page 14)
for screwing the speaker into position making
(See page 12)
(See page 15)
except in this case the joint compound will not
THE USE OF HOT MUD OR
On a finished wall, create a
space for the nylon mesh tape
and mud by stripping back about
1" of the wallboard paper.
19
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