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Related Manuals for 3DUpFitters CR-10 Smart Pro Enclosure Kit
Summary of Contents for 3DUpFitters CR-10 Smart Pro Enclosure Kit
- Page 1 CR-10 Smart Pro Enclosure Kit Installation Manual 1.0 April 2022 Copyright 2022 3DUpfitters...
- Page 2 We forgot to put anything on this page. Copyright 2022 3DUpfitters...
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Page 3: Before You Start
You Really Do Want to Read the Directions Hey, we get it. You just got your new enclosure kit and want to start using it as fast as possible. How hard can assembling a few plastic panels possibly be? It’s not really that hard, assuming you’re following the directions, but try to use brute force and you’ll end up working your way through your vocabulary of swear words. - Page 4 Don’t Panic If You See This! If you can’t see through the plastic, please don’t panic! What you’re seeing is just the plastic or paper protective covering. You, dear customer, are way too smart to think the plastic is flawed and then call and email us over and over again.
- Page 5 WARNING Once you’ve assembled the enclosure and its on your printer… DO NOT MOVE THE ENCLOSURE while the printer is INSIDE If you want to move the printer and enclosure you’ll need to detach the vents and cables and remove the enclosure first.
- Page 6 Everything You Wanted to Know About Screwing But Were Afraid to Ask Screw Tool Needed Usage Relative Size 30-50mm Attach fan/filter, attach large Hex Cap 3mm Hex Wrench front latch mounts Head 12mm Hex 3mm Hex Wrench Connectors, hinges Cap Head 16mm Hex Knobs, small latch mounts on 3mm Hex Wrench...
- Page 7 The actual length of the "long" screws to attach the fan and or filter will vary depending on the depth of the particular shipment of fans we happen to get that month. They won't be hard to spot since they'll be the longest thing in the bags. Note that you’ll need a 3mm hex wrench for most of the screws.
- Page 8 Assemble Panels 1. Attach The Front Door Frame Corners Each of the corners on the enclosure will be held together by the connectors pictured below. There are only two versions L and R, which can be identified by the letters stamped on the inside.
- Page 9 Mid-panel connectors are used to secure the middle of the panels. When you remove the front door, be sure to remember the orientation, i.e. which part of the door is the inside and outside. You’ll want to attach the door the same way it was taped.
- Page 10 Attach the door knob by first inserting the square M4 nut into the slot. Use a 16mm cap head screw to attach the door. Now that the latches are mounted it is time to connect the strike plates. Each plate comes with a squishy adhesive covering the same size of the plate.
- Page 11 the knob, and the assembly will look like the illustration to the right. Don’t forget the mid-panel connectors at the back left and top. As with the front door, adjust how the door hangs by loosening the hinge screws, using the strike plates to hold the door to the latches, and then tightening the hinge screws.
- Page 12 Confirm the direction of the fan by plugging it into a USB power supply before attaching the filter. The round label should be on the outside The fan should be attached on the outside of the enclosure. The fan should be oriented to pull air OUT of the enclosure.
- Page 13 5. Attach Right Side The right side is a simple, plain sheet of acrylic. Note there is a hole at the top for the mid-panel connector and a slit at the top for the support beam that will be installed in the next step. 6.
- Page 14 The top is tricky to attach because of the large size of the enclosure. Although attaching it consists of simply screwing it to existing connectors unless you have exceedingly long arms you may need a buddy to help hold the nuts in place. Customers have done everything from having a child climb into the enclosure to placing the entire enclosure on the side of a table to access the nuts.
- Page 15 Next, locate the filament sensor mount. The filament sensor itself will be attached using the M3 screw that came with the printer to attach the filament sensor to its own spool holder. After attaching the filament sensor to the sensor mount, attach the combined piece to the top using 2 M4 12mm hex cap screws.
- Page 16 The assembled enclosure should now look like this: 7. Attach Front Display You can choose to leave the display attached to the printer or move it outside. First, detach the display from the printer and unplug the cable in the back. Unfortunately, the cable is just a tad short to reach to the display outside of the enclosure, so we’ve included an extension...
- Page 17 Attach the display cable extender, work the cable through the slit, and attach it to the display on the outside of the enclosure. UPDATE: After the pictures were taken the display mount was modified to use #4 Philips head wood screws on the end of the three prongs.
- Page 18 1. Situate the display so that the 3 prongs fit inside the 3 holes and wiggle the display until it is flush against the mount. 2. Slide the display down along the amount a fraction of a mm to seat the prongs into place.
- Page 19 9. Sealing Gaps Once the enclosure is completely put together, it is time to make sure that each of the panels is held tightly to each adjoining panel. The connectors are designed with a small amount of play that allows you to make small adjustments for the perfect fit. 1.
- Page 20 11. Managing Enclosure Temperatures There's not much to a 3D printer enclosure. Although ours look fancy, functionally they're not much different than putting a cardboard box over the printers since both designs are passively heated by the beds. How complicated can they be? This section will explain a little about how they work, and how to manage the temperatures to get quality prints while protecting your lungs.
- Page 21 Since airflow is key, all of our enclosures come with fans chosen for CFM ratings to match the cubic size of the enclosures. This ensures that for cool-loving filament types like PLA there's enough airflow to keep the temperatures in the safe zone. Room Temperature Passively heated enclosures are completely dependent on the room temperature as a starting point.
- Page 22 going to heat the enclosure less than ABS right off the bat. Always make sure to print with an enclosure fan and monitor the internal temperature, which ideally should be in the 30-35C range or lower if you can get it. If you'd like to lower the temperature further you can always buy a more powerful fan, but the easiest thing to do is just crack the front door a little to increase airflow.
- Page 23 temperature simply because the temperature is more likely to vary as the hot end goes from the bottom to the top of the enclosure. Let Us Help If you're looking to achieve a particular temperature with your enclosure, let us know and we'll give some advice on how to manage, but it's really not that hard: Lower Temperature = More Cold Air Higher Temperature = Less Cold Air...