Related Manuals for 3DUpFitters Artillery Sidewinder X1 Enclosure Kit
Summary of Contents for 3DUpFitters Artillery Sidewinder X1 Enclosure Kit
- Page 1 Artillery Sidewinder X1 Enclosure Kit Installation Manual 1.3 January, 2020 Copyright 2020 3DUPfitters LLC...
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Page 3: Before You Start
You Really Do Want to Read the Directions Hey, we get it. You just got your new enclosure kit and want to start using it as fast as possible. How hard can assembling a few plastic panels possibly be? It’s not really that hard, assuming you’re following the directions, but try to use brute force and you’ll end up working your way through your vocabulary of swear words. - Page 4 Don’t Panic If You See This! If you can’t see through the plastic, please don’t panic! What you’re seeing is just the plastic or paper protective covering. When plastic sheets are manufactured they are covered by either a paper (brown colored) or plastic (white) covering to protect against scratches.
- Page 5 Everything You Wanted to Know About Screwing But Were Afraid to Ask Screw Tool Needed Usage Relative Size 30-50mm Attach fan/filter, attach large Hex Cap 3mm Hex Wrench front latch mounts Head 12mm Hex 3mm Hex Wrench Connectors, hinges Cap Head 16mm Hex Knobs, small latch mounts on 3mm Hex Wrench...
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Page 6: The Front Panel
Assemble Panels The front panels are made from thicker 1/4" acrylic to provide more structural rigidity where its needed: the door. Do not try to bend the 1/4” acrylic! The remaining panels are all 1/8”. In general use the 10mm cap head screws to attach things to the 3mm side panels, and the longer 12mm cap head screws to attach things to the 6mm front. - Page 7 There are also smaller connectors at the top and right side when viewed from the front. The front should look like the picture to the right. Locate the magnetic latch and use the wood screws to attach them to the latch mounts. Hand tighten and make sure they’re secure, but do not over tighten or they may strip.
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Page 8: Left Side Panel
Now that the latches are mounted it is time to connect the strike plates. Each plate comes with a squishy adhesive covering the same size of the plate. Carefully attach the adhesive side to the acrylic at the location of each latch. Then, adjust the width of the metal strike plate so that it is held on by the pressure of the two sides of the plate. -
Page 9: Top Panel
On the back of the enclosure is a grommet and grommet holder. This makes it easy to take off the enclosure without unplugging the printer. First insert the grommet into the grommet holder, then run the power supply cable through it. for easy access to the extruder. -
Page 10: Right Panel
5. Right Panel The last panel to attach is the right panel. All of the connectors are attached by now, so what remains is to attach the panel using 10mm M4 screws. The right air input vent is also inserted from the outside at this side. - Page 11 attached to the adapter as shown in the picture to the right. The screws are 14mm M5. The cable for the runout sensor can be inserted through the top slit and attached as show to the right. 8. Air Input Tray In order to get enough air to the electronics without also cooling down the inside there are two air input vents, one on each side of the...
- Page 12 1. Loosen screws on the panel to move. 2. Push that panel into place. You may need a friend to hold it tightly in the right spot. 3. Re-tighten the screws to hold the panel. Repeat the product, going around the enclosure looking to make sure all of the panels are flush to each other.
- Page 13 They've been running like that for years with no clogging and even with no venting of the power supplies, we've never had a power supply fail either. Obviously, your mileage may vary, as it depends on a lot of variables such as filament quality and the quality of the power supply in your printer.