Page 1: Build The Timberwolf Delta Trike
BUILD THE TIMBERWOLF DELTA TRIKE Another Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines Adventure All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 2: Table Of Contents
TIMBERWOLF RECUMBENT DELTA TRIKE TABLE OF CONTENTS BUILD THE TIMBERWOLF DELTA TRIKE .......................1 ABOUT THE TIMBERWOLF RECUMBENT TRIKE ...................4 REAR FRAME ..............................5 ............................6 UPPORT UBES ..............................9 APPING ............................12 UBING LIGNMENT ............................15 ELDING OINTS ..........................19 ..................... 22...
Page 3 CARGO BOX ............................194 FINISHING TOUCHES ..........................200 PAINTING ............................... 203 FINAL ASSEMBLY AND RIDE ........................206 LEVERS AND CABLES..........................210 JOIN THE ATOMIC ZOMBIE KREW ......................220 All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 4: About The Timberwolf Recumbent Trike
Having a seat height of around 16 inches gives the TimberWolf a good stance for city traffic, yet allows for some very agile handling characteristics with the ability to take corners at a much higher speed than what would be possible on an upright delta trike.
Page 5: Rear Frame
Drawing 1 – The rear of the TimberWolf frame Most of the TimberWolf frame is made from 1.5 inch mild steel square tubing with a 1/16 inch wall thickness. This tubing can be ordered from any steel supplier and is very easy to cut and weld.
Page 6: Axle Support Tubes
TIMBERWOLF RECUMBENT DELTA TRIKE REAR FRAME Drawing 1 shows what I will refer to as the rear of the TimberWolf frame. It is made from the same 1.5 inch square, 16 gage (or 1/16 inch wall thickness) tubing that will make up the entire main frame. This part of the frame will determine the overall width of the final trike, and it can be widened for larger riders, if necessary.
Page 7 Of course, there is certainly nothing wrong with a hacksaw, and if you take your time, handmade cuts can be extremely accurate. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 8 1.5 inches shorter than the other tubes. The fourth axle support tube will actually be the main boom, and will be shown later in the plan. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 9: Capping Ends
1.5 inch tubing. Figure 4 shows the three end caps I made from some scrap 1.5 inch tubing. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 11 Figure 6. When grinding a weld flush, ensure that you don’t grind lower than the original metal or the joint will be weakened. For the end caps, this is not much of a concern as they are not under stress. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 12: Tubing Alignment
If you do not have a good flat surface to work on, a piece of ¾ inch thick plywood would even work, just make sure it is not warped. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 14 Re-check and repeat, if necessary. Break the joint and try again if you find the alignment to be obviously skewed after tack welding. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 16 In other words, a slight bowing of the frame here will not affect the parallel tracking of the wheels due to the way this project will progress from here. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 17 (right side wheel and axle). Again, keep in mind the order of welding operations to minimize heat distortion. Figure 13 – Checking alignment All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 18 Figure 14 shows the three axle support tubes welded to the rear frame tube, completing most of the rear frame assembly. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 20 Figure 13. Figure 16 shows the top of the main rear boom welded after checking for the 90 degree angle between it and the rear frame tube. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 21 Figure 17 shows the installed main rear boom tube, which will also become the fourth and last axle support tube. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 22: Axle Mounts And Pillow Block Bearings
AXLE MOUNTS AND PILLOW BLOCK BEARINGS Figure 18 – The 5/8 axle and matching bearings The TimberWolf has two separate rear axles, which makes sense considering that only one wheel drives and the other one brakes. These axles are made from non- hardened cold rolled steel with a diameter of 5/8”.
Page 23 However, on a human powered trike like the TimberWolf, this would not be the same. The wheel drag would either slow you to a stop, or cause the front wheel to skid along in a straight line no matter how much you tried to corner.
Page 24 Note: Only the two outer bearings are mounted at this stage, so do not drill or mark the holes for the two inner bearings yet. Read ahead from here to Figure 27 as this will be explained. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 25 Without a punch hole, drilling an accurate hole in the center of the circle is extremely difficult. The bearings allow for some misalignment, but do try to be as accurate as you can here. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 26 Start with a 1/8 bit, and then work your way up to the desired diameter, skipping every second bit size. Drilling this way prevents the hole from wandering off the mark. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 27 The bearings are also protected from the rain this way, which is good if you plan to store your trike outdoors often. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 28 You only need to tighten the bearing bolts until they resist easy wrench effort, not so much that you are squashing the walls of the tubing. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 29 If the axle does not slide easily into the bearings, add a bit of oil, ensure that the bearing race setscrews are out, and check the axle end for burs or a mushroomed end. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 30 Remember that this is done on both sides, so you will need to remove the outer bearings and bolt them on the other side to mark both sides. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 32 A flap disc, hand file, or light sanding will remove the burred edge after cutting the axle material. Figure 27 shows the axle after cutting it in place with a zip disc. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 33: Rear Wheel Hubs
Figure 28 – These washer-like discs will become the rear hubs One of the most unique features of the TimberWolf is that it has no rear hubs. The flanges that hold the spokes are actually part of the rear axles, so this greatly simplifies the design and saves the builder a lot of money that would otherwise go to purchasing expensive aluminum hubs to be custom machined.
Page 34 Read the entire axle/hub section that follows so you see how this is done before choosing which method to use. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 35 The hole in the center is 5/8 inch in diameter so that the discs will fit snugly onto the 5/8 axles used on the TimberWolf. If you decide to have these discs made at a machine shop, just print out this text and/or photo, or tell them you want four 2.5 inch diameter washers with a 5/8 hole in the center of each with a thickness of 1/8...
Page 36 I do this work using a hand drill, which is why the disk is held to a board as shown in Figure 30 by a pair of wood screws. You could also bolt the disc to the end of All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 39 Once this is done, you can remove the axle and weld the opposite side joint with little fear of pulling the disc out of alignment with the axle. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 42 A spoke or small welding rod can be used to set up this hole spacing offset between the hub flanges as shown in Figure 36. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 43 A typical rear bicycle hub has the flanges at 2 inches apart or less, so our 3.5 inch wide hub will be much stronger. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 44 When I show off the TimberWolf, I get a lot of comments on the hubs from people who are into bicycle mechanics asking where I purchased those cool trike hubs.
Page 45 Yes, you could also turn the face down in a lathe of you are lucky enough to have such tools. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 46 Paint only the hub area, not the axle, or it will not slide into the bearings due to the extra thickness of the paint. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 47 Do not worry about damaging the center tube in the vice; we will not need it for any part of this project. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 48 Some of these hubs nay have very hard material in this area as well, so make sure your round file is new and sharp. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 49 Basically all of the steps are the same except you are using bicycle hub flanges rather than the steel discs. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 50: Lacing And Truing Wheels
They can calculate the necessary spoke length from a chart and order you the 72 stainless steel spokes for building your wheels. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 51 Also expect to make a few mistakes unless you are one of these “correct first try” magicians. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 52 If you are not sure how much tension should be on the spokes, check an assembled bicycle wheel for reference. If you are planning to let the cycle shop build your wheels, then they will need the truing stand as well. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 53 The tires shown in Figure 46 are almost balloon like in profile, but in my area potholes look like moon craters, so that extra rubber helps to protect the rim from a ding. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 54: Freehub Adapter
Figure 42, and you will see that the dismembered steel hub not only makes the two hub/axle assemblies, but the threaded side can be used as a freehub adapter. You All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 56 I don’t like buying special tools, so I will show you how to make your own freehub remover for free that will outlast a store bought tool. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 57 Figure 49 is many years old and has removed more old freehubs than I care to count. For the record, I broke two store bought freehub removers in one month before building this tool. DIY is king! All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 58 A very long pipe over the handle is also good for increasing your leverage if you can find a way to secure the wheel in place. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 60 Don't crank the free hub into the part just yet, or you may have a tough time removing it, just thread it on until it stops using little force. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 61: Installing Disc Brakes
A machined disc similar to the hub flanges could also be used. Mounting this part to the axle will be done using the same methods as shown when welding the hub flanges to the axle. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 62 Figure 54 shows the disc brake mounting flange welded directly to the axle using the “tack, tap, and weld” system used to weld the hub flanges. Also shown is one of the bearings installed close to the wheel. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 63 The indicated direction of rotation should be the same as the rotation of your wheel as if moving forward. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 64 You can test this gap by placing a chain on the largest chain ring to ensure that it will have adequate clearance between the frame tubing. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 66 If you find that the freehub becomes stuck on the adapter, you can always rely on your trusty freehub removal tool to set if free once again. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 67 Trike have almost the same rear assembly, so you could take this design in almost any conceivable direction if you wanted to. Ok, now on to the suspension components of the trike. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 68: Rear Suspension
Figure 60 – Salvaging the suspension parts from an old frame The TimberWolf Trike has rear suspension that works exactly the same way as the suspension on a typical mountain bike - a pivot and a suspension spring to help take up shock from bumps in the road.
Page 69 Remove the swing arm and then tap out the bearings using a rod or screwdriver to leave the pivot tube empty as shown in Figure 61. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 70 Figure 62 shows the suspension pivot tube after a little fork with the sanding disc, which cleans up any of the excess tubing and paint from the area. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 71 Also, ensure that the rear triangle hardware is steel, not aluminum or you will not be able to weld it to your new frame. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 72: Mounting Tabs
64 because it will not be used for this project. Read ahead to see how the suspension on the TimberWolf works if your hardware is significantly different than what is shown here. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved.
Page 74: Pivot Tube
Your suspension pivot hardware may not look exactly like the components shown in Figure 66, but they will still be easy to adapt to the square tube from the TimberWolf. You could even create your own pivot hardware using a pair of half inch brass bushings, a bolt and some round tubing to press fit the bushings, but if you can salvage the hardware from a bicycle frame, it will be less work.
Page 75 Figure 114 ahead shows a close view of how the pivot tube will be installed so that the rear portion of the trike can move up and down in response to the bumps in the road. The resulting suspension system is basically the same on the TimberWolf as it is on any suspension bicycle.
Page 76 This should be done anytime an equal cut has to be made on opposing sides of a square tube. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 77 90 degrees to the square tube so that the two part of the frame connected by the pivot will be in line with each other. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 78 Also, ensure that you remove any plastic bearing parts from the suspension tube while welding. My bearings are made of brass, so it was ok to have them installed during the welding process. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 79 Figure 71. Weld the opposite side next, which will help minimize any side-to-side distortions that may occur when the sides of the joint are welded. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 81 The two small arms that you cut from the rear triangle need to be fastened together in order to affix them to the other part of the TimberWolf frame, so a small length of flatbar with a thickness similar to that of the two arms needs to be cut. Of course, your parts may differ, but in the end the goals are the same, which is a pivot in the frame as shown ahead in Figure 89.
Page 82 Figure 74 so that it can move freely and not rub against any of the new parts being made. Think of this assembly as a large door hinge - it will function much the same way. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 83 The frame tubing is being used as a guide here. Remember that you cannot heat plastic bearings, so do not try this if your bearings are not made of metal. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 84 Since the new plate is resting directly on the frame tubing, alignment is practically guaranteed. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 85 This completes the rear section of the frame and the suspension link so the rest of the frame can now be made. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 86: Main Frame
Drawing 3 – Dimensions for the front frame tubes The TimberWolf main frame is made up of three different 1.5 inch square tubes as shown in Drawing 3. The main boom tube (B) connects all of the other tubes to the frame and it also carries the head tube and rear suspension pivot.
Page 87: Inseam Measurement
2 inches of seat thickness and front wheel to crank overlap. My “recumbent inseam” measurement was exactly 44 inches, so I cut the main boom to the same length of 44 inches. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 88: Frame Tubing
(90 + 45) if you follow the angles given. You can certainly modify the seat angle if you like, but the angles given will offer a good balance of comfort and aerodynamics all around. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 89 “top” on the side of my tubing that does not have the seam so the seam is on the underside of the frame. Sometimes you can see the seam after painting. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 90 Figure 80. With the guide tube and clamps in place, frame distortion will be eliminated, keeping the tubing perfect inline during the welding process. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 91 81 while the clamps are still holding the two tubes together. Keeping sided-to-side distortion to a minimum is important so that the front end of the frame will be inline with the rear of the frame. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 93 There will still be a chance to adjust if necessary. None of the angles in this frame need to be absolutely precise, but try to stay as close to the goal as you can. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 94 Figure 84 shows the top and bottom side of the joint welded first as the clamps hold the work perfectly inline. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 95 Drawing 3. You can clean up the sides of the joint if you like, but avoid grinding the tops and bottoms of the joints too much as these are the welds that will carry all of the stress. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 97 2 equal objects. If you want to check the position of the main boom, a level can be used to verify that the tubing is running parallel to the ground. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 99 Start with a tack weld at the top of the joint, check alignment, and then add one at each lower corner as shown in Figure 89. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 100 Figure 90. Again, weld the top and bottom side of the joint first and then complete the sides to avoid distortion. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 101: Front Head Tube
If you have not already chosen a front wheel and forks, then now is the time. Once again, you will need the tire installed and inflated on the rim. The TimberWolf can be made with a solid fork or a suspension fork, and requires a 20 inch wheel along with a set of 20 inch forks and matching head tube hardware.
Page 102 A rough grinding disc makes easy work of cutting down the tubing and the flap disc makes the part look like new again. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 103 Figure 93 shows the head tube after grinding with the bearing cups, bearings, and top race installed for testing. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 104: Head Tube Angle
Figure 94. The angle of the head tube on the TimberWolf will be 67 degrees as shown in Figure 94. If you do not have an adjustable angle finder, you can print out the 67 degree angle from any graphics program and then cut it out as a guide.
Page 106 Draw this line ahead of the front tube as shown in Figure 96, using the edge of the head tube as a guide to draw the line. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 107 Figure 97. By marking a 90 degree line at the top and bottom, you can then join them together on the unmarked side, completing the head tube cut line opposite the one you originally marked. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 108 As shown in Figure 98, the head tube is placed just behind the line you drew and a line is traced from edge to edge on the top and bottom of the front boom tube. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 109 This boom trimming line is the second line shown that meets the corners of the fishmouth circle. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 110 The front boom is trimmed along the cut line that meets the edges of the fish- mouth cut as shown in Figure 100. The line shown on the leftover piece was the original line drawn along the head tube shown in Figure 96. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 111: Fish-Mouth Cut
Figure 101. This makes the final grinding easier as you only need to work to the line using a standard grinder disc or round file. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 112 A round file is usually good for the fine tuning of the joint once the initial rough grinding has been completed. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 113 Visually inspect the frame from the front so you can ensure that all three wheels are standing up at 90 degrees from the ground. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 114 Once the three tack welds are securing the head tube to the front boom (Figure 104), carefully remove the forks and so the joint can be fully welded. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 115 90 degrees from the ground. Any errors in the frame will be corrected here since it is the wheel alignment that counts. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 116 The top and bottom side of the joint are welded first. To prevent the head tube from becoming slightly oval, have the bearing cups installed as you weld as shown in Figure 106. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 117 Figure 107. It doesn’t hurt to double check the alignment one last time before welding the sides just in case something has gone wrong. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 119 1/8 inch thick flatbar. For my build, I salvaged the set shown in the photo and made the second set from some flatbar. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 121 To drill an accurate hole, start with a small bit and work your way up to the required size, which will likely be 5/16 for most suspension spring bolts. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 123 With both sets of suspension spring mounting tabs completed as shown in Figure 113, you will be ready to mount your suspension to the frame. Install the bolt hardware so that all parts are tight and ready for installation. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 124: Spring Installation
If your weight compresses the spring more than half an inch, then you may need to adjust the spring All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 125 Also, avoid any heavy welding with the spring installed as the plastic bushing will melt. A quick tack weld is ok, but let the tabs cool before making another. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 126 Do not weld with your suspension spring installed or the plastic bushing will melt down to nothing and you will have to find a new spring. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 127 Figure 117. This is done because the joint at the far rear has not been welded, so the gussets will add great strength to this part of the frame. Any 1/8 inch thick flatbar or steel will work fine. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 128 Congratulations, you now have a rolling chassis! It won’t be long before your trike is ready to ride. The rest of the building process will be smooth sailing. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 129: Making The Seat
10 inches to 6 inches as well to match the bottom. A separate back rest is then made (shown later) as it is easier to make small comfort adjustments this way. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 133 Since it’s visible from behind, the rear of the back rest will also get a plastic cover to hide the stapled area. Feel free to alter your seat design to suit your needs. Figure 124 – Adding the decorative cover to the back rest All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 134: Seat Riser
Since the main boom is completely parallel to the ground, the base of the seat needs to be lifted slightly to give a more secure feeling when piloting the TimberWolf. A completely parallel seat would allow the rider to slip forward under hard braking and would not seem as comfortable as a seat that is lifted slightly at the front of the base.
Page 137 Figure 129. This cap is made using the same methods as the three caps on the axle support frame tubes. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 138: Back Rest Support
As seen in the completed TimberWolf photos, I found the optimal position of the back rest to be just a few degrees back from almost 90 degrees. You can leave this part for later as well.
Page 139: Adjustable Bottom Bracket
ADJUSTABLE BOTTOM BRACKET Figure 131 – Making an adjustable bottom bracket The TimberWolf includes an adjustable bottom bracket so that riders of varying leg lengths can adjust the distance between the seat and pedals for optimum comfort and performance. Moving the bottom bracket is more practical than moving the seat because the steering system would also have to move with the seat, creating a very complex and difficult design to adjust linkage system.
Page 141 Figure 131. The marker line should meet the corners of the plate to ensure that you don't cut out too much off of the plate when grinding out the rounded area. If you All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 142 I also placed a sheet of paper (folded in half) between each plate and the side wall of the tubing to allow a little clearance between the clamp plates so that the unit is not too All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 143 In other words, the bottom bracket will be in the center of the main boom as viewed from above. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 144 Because of the way the clamp system works, there would be no added benefit from welding the inside of the joint anyway. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 145 If the holes are not below the line, you will not be able to pass the bolts through both plates because they will hit the frame tubing instead. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 146 To fill in the washer hole, several passes are made around the edge until completely covered in weld metal. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 147 Figure 138 once had an open end. Going the extra distance can make your final product look very professional, possibly even better than some mass produced machines that have plastic plugs shoved into the open ends of the tubing. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 148 The nearly completed TimberWolf shown in Figure 139 is really starting to look like something. Only the transmission system and steering components remain to be done now.
Page 149: Transmission System
There are many ways to achieve this goal, but I find that cutting and modifying the derailleur mounting hardware is the easiest method. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 150: Rear Derailleur
Figure 141 shows the small 2.5 inch long piece of flat bar I used for this simple modification. Of course, the derailleur needs to be made of steel if this is to work properly. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 151 142 at a slight angle so that it can connect with the nearest frame tube. Your derailleur may differ, so use whatever method and materials you can find to position the old axle slot at the center of the new trike axle. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 152 143. Now the derailleur is sitting in a position next to the freehub cluster exactly the way it was intended. If you need to see an example of proper rear derailleur positioning, take a look at a regular upright bicycle. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 153: Chain
CHAIN Figure 144 – Making up a new long chain The TimberWolf is so reclined that you will need almost twice the length of bicycle chain that you would normally require on an upright bicycle. Shown in Figure 144 is a wad of chain consisting of two new lengths of standard derailleur bicycle chain and an inexpensive tool that makes joining chains so much easier than the smack it with a hammer and punch system.
Page 154 The sag in the return chain (lower side of the chain) will be picked up by a chain tube that will be shown later in the build. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 155: Steering System
You will need a head tube, a fork stem and a steel gooseneck to create the under seat steering system for the TimberWolf. The head tube only needs to be 4 inches tall, so you will have to measure and cut your head tube to this length as shown in Figure 146.
Page 157 It is important to make an accurate cut on the end of the round tubing because it will need to be fit back together for welding. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 158 Figure 150. You can then make several tack welds to secure the alignment and then release the part for further welding. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 159 Figure 151 because the crown area is actually made up of two tubes that are press fit into each other. If you do not intend to shorten the crown area, then this extra welding can be omitted. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 160 Ensure that all of the bearing hardware fits together properly so that the stem can spin freely once all of the hardware is installed and tightened. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 161: Steering Installation
For now, tack weld the pilot’s fork stem under the seat riser tube at the slight angle shown in Figure 153. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 162 Set four decent tack welds around the fork stem as shown in Figure 154 to lock it in place. Tap off the bearing race when welding so that you do not accidentally damage it during the welding process. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 163: Handlebars
Figure 156 shows how a straight handlebar can be used as a reference when setting up the clamp to be welded to the head tube. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 164 The distance from each end of the handlebar to the ground should be the same at both ends. This will ensure that your handlebars are not tilted to one side or the other. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 165 Place your hands where you feel that they are most relaxed and then design your handlebars to meet you, not the other way around. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 166 I simply cut up two sets of handlebars and joined them as shown in Figure 158, making a system that felt comfortable and did not hit the seat when turning. Again, you will definitely need to experiment here. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 167 I dropped my hands to the side to see where they felt most relaxed. A handlebar exactly like this would certainly not be available at bike shops. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 168 The rotation of the handlebars shown in Figure 161 is more than you would ever need, but there is no chain or seat interference until the furthest possible rotation. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 169: Chain Guides
Probably the best place for the chain to bend will be just ahead the seat corner as shown in Figure 162. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 170 You will also need a bolt that fits the center of the pulley and sticks out about 2 inches on one side. Trim the head off the bolt as shown in Figure 173. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 171 Placing the idler pulley just under the seat near the back corner as shown in Figure 164 will probably be your best bet, but experiment to see how things work with your own handlebars. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 172 Installing the pulley about ¾ inch away from the side of the main boom tube will be good enough. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 173 Figure 166 shows the ¾ inch of space between the idler pulley and the main boom tube, provided by the small bit of tubing slide over the bolt to create a spacer. Washers can also be used for this purpose. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 174 7 inch long strip so they end up approximately 4 inches long. One is welded to the frame and the other will hang from the idler pulley mounting bolt. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 175 If the rubber hose happens to touch the handlebars slightly, it’s not much of a concern since there is no tension in the chain. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 176 Figure 169 – A side view of the new chain line Figure 169 shows the new chain line after installing both the drive chain idler pulley and the return chain pickup hose. The TimberWolf is now ready for the final steering components.
Page 177: Steering Linkage
The rounded bottom of each control arm is made to conform to the head tube shell and fork leg where they will be attached. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 178 It is a good idea to only tack weld all of the steering parts together at first and then complete the welding once you have the steering working the way you like. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 179 Place the front fork control arm up near the fork crown, and remove the bearing race when welding to avoid damage. Figure 173 – Ball joints, and a control rod link the steering system All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 180 The steering control arms are linked together by a control rod with two ball joints (aspherical bearings) at each end. The steering on the TimberWolf feels no different than that of a regular bicycle since the operation of the linkage is almost transparent to the pilot.
Page 182 This creates enough space so that the body will no longer rub against the control arm in tight turns. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 183 TIMBERWOLF RECUMBENT DELTA TRIKE STEERING LINKAGE Figure 177 – The TimberWolf with a fully functional steering and transmission system Your TimberWolf is now functional enough to ride, although you will be stuck with a single speed and have no ability to slow down! If you have a nice quiet place to test ride your trike, set the derailleur adjustment pins to some middle gear and go see how the steering handles.
Page 184: Brake Studs
Figure 178 – Removing brake studs for transplant to another fork set The TimberWolf has a rear disc brake and a front pad brake, which is plenty of stopping power. If your chosen front forks already have brake studs installed then you are all set, but often 20 inch forks do not have brake studs as the small bike they came from might have had a single rear coaster brake or a bolt on side pull brake.
Page 185 20 inch forks. Do not load the spring into the hole though, or you will not be able to turn the stud. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 186 Figure 180 so that the pad strikes the wheel in the correct position. The brake stud will be standing off of the fork leg at 90 degrees and pointing directly forward when aligned properly. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 187 The marks are made once the paint has been removed, but for photo clarity, I have drawn them over the paint. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 188 Figure 182, making sure to weld all the way around the sides just as they were on the original fork legs. If you have made a slight alignment error, this can be corrected when you align the brake pads on the rim surface. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 189: Disc Brake Mount
Figure 183 shows my disc brake hardware tightened to the disc in a position that seems easy to mount as well as placing the cable entry towards the front of the trike. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 190 I plan to use to mount the brake. The mounting bolts are high grade and have locking nuts. Figure 185 – My completed disc brake mounting hardware All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 191 “full brake” position. Only tack weld the parts with the brake installed and then remove it to complete the welding or you will damage the brake hardware from the heat. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 192 Figure 187 – A different style of disc brake and the mounting hardware Figure 187 shows another style of disc brake that I have adapted for trike use. Note the different mounting hardware used for this style of disc brake. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 193 Remove the brake hardware to complete the welding, making sure to securely weld the joints that will be taking all of the braking forces. The disc brake hardware is shown installed after the parts have cooled in Figure 188. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 194: Cargo Box
Figure 189 – Test fitting the optional rear cargo box The TimberWolf is designed with some room behind the seat to add a small cargo box or even a battery pack for an electric assist kit. Your imagination is the limit from this point on, and as long as you can fit the box between the wheels, just about anything can be fit onto the trike.
Page 196 Figure 192. The end caps will also become mounting tabs for the bolts that will pass through the cooler body. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 197 The mounting tabs are welded to the open ends of the tubing and then ground clean using a flap disc. Figure 193 shows the completed mounting system that will hold the cooler in place behind the seat. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 198 This configuration would be good for about 100 pounds, although I doubt I could pack that much into that small cooler! All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 199 This simple mounting configuration would also make it easy to create other types of cargo boxes that could just bolt on from the sides. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 200: Finishing Touches
The red lights shown in Figure 196 will mount to the rear of the frame and the white lights will mount to a ring that will lock over the front fork hardware. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 201 These lights are not bright enough to light a road at night, but are definitely good enough to make you more visible to oncoming traffic. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 202 With a little careful welding and grinding, the completed part shown in Figure 198 looks like it was turned on a lathe. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 204 TIMBERWOLF RECUMBENT DELTA TRIKE PAINTING Figure 200 – The TimberWolf frame is sent to the paint shop I am often asked if I have my bikes professionally painted, which is funny considering my paint shop is what you see in Figure 200 - an old tree branch, a ladder,...
Page 205 TIMBERWOLF RECUMBENT DELTA TRIKE PAINTING Figure 201 – The primed and then painted TimberWolf frame Because the rear cargo box was already bright orange, I decided to match the color. The bright orange would make for a highly visible trike along the tree line where I was going to ride, and it was easy to find the exact same color in a spray can.
Page 206: Final Assembly And Ride
Standard axle grease form the hardware store is all you need for bicycle bearing parts. Figure 202 shows the bare bones TimberWolf assembled after greasing all of the ball bearing hardware.
Page 207 TIMBERWOLF RECUMBENT DELTA TRIKE ASSEMBLE & RIDE Figure 203 – The rear of the TimberWolf after paint and assembly The rear of the trike is assembled, using nylock nuts on all of the axle bolts as well as the disc brake bolts. These nuts include a nylon plastic top that creates a nut that will not shake loose over time due to vibration.
Page 208 Often, this is done on the right rear chain stay of an upright bicycle where the chain may strike and chip the paint. Figure 204 shows the steering linkage sitting on the freshly painted frame. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 209 Figure 205 shows the front derailleur being installed over the larger chain ring so that the plates can force the chain up or down to the other chain rings. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 210: Levers And Cables
I prefer the old-school lever shifters that were common on the 1970s road bikes because I have a bucket full of them All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 212 Again, there will be a small cable tension adjuster at both the brake end of the cable as well as at the lever cable input. Figure 208 shows how the cable wraps around the activation lever on my brake. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 213 With the cables setup and functional, you are now ready for that first test run. The completed and tuned up TimberWolf (Figure 209) sits idle, ready to hit the trails. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved.
Page 214 Reflectors and reflective tape are also highly effective at warning drivers that you may need that extra room on the roadway. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 215 Figure 211 – The completed TimberWolf in its natural environment The completed TimberWolf is really a nice looking trike - half racing machine and half cargo trike, ready to carve up the corners in the cycle trail or simply haul back a small load of groceries from the corner store.
Page 216 TIMBERWOLF RECUMBENT DELTA TRIKE ASSEMBLE & RIDE Figure 212 – The completed TimberWolf in its natural environment The rear suspension really does wonders on a washboard gravel road or a city road riddled with potholes. I have several non suspension trikes as well, and the first thing I noted when travelling down the more rugged terrain was how smooth the ride was.
Page 217 In the deep grass or dirt, the TimberWolf also had no problem maintaining traction in low gear and the suspension took up all but the most deep ruts and bumps in the trail.
Page 218 Swapping out the cooler for some other cargo box configuration would only involve the installation of two bolts. All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...
Page 219 TIMBERWOLF RECUMBENT DELTA TRIKE ASSEMBLE & RIDE Figure 215 – The TimberWolf makes that long journey more enjoyable Well, we hope you have as much fun riding your new trike as building it, and your cycling horizons are now wide open. With such a comfortable and agile trike, that long journey will seem so much more enjoyable, but do expect to get pulled over quite often to explain your cool ride.
Page 220: Join The Atomic Zombie Krew
Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines T-Shirts, mugs, decals, hats, stickers and more: www.cafepress.com/atomic_zombie Stay up-to-date with the latest bike building news: http://atomic-zombie-extreme-machines.blogspot.com Free DIY tutorials for bike hackers and builders: www.atomiczombie.com All content © copyright Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines. All rights reserved. www.ATOMICZOMBIE.com...

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