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Corbin 39 Builder's Manual

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BUILDER'S GUIDE CORBIN 39
MARIUS CORBIN
Version gw2018 0.2
NOT PROOF READ
Builder's Guide CORBIN 39
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - CORBIN LES BATEAUX INC. 1983
COPYRIGHT - CORBIN LES BATEAUX 1983

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  • Page 1 BUILDER’S GUIDE CORBIN 39 MARIUS CORBIN Version gw2018 0.2 NOT PROOF READ Builder’s Guide CORBIN 39 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - CORBIN LES BATEAUX INC. 1983 COPYRIGHT - CORBIN LES BATEAUX 1983...
  • Page 2 BUILDER’S GUIDE CORBIN 39 Translated from "Guide du Constructeur Corbin 39” by Marius Corbin and Pat Brophy Set-up and typing by Monique Brophy All rights reserved Copyright CORBIN LES BATEAUX INC. 1983 This electronic version of the original Builders Guide was prepared by George Weeks, Feb.
  • Page 3 a
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  • Page 5 Dear Customer, The crew of CORBIN LES BATEAUX INC. wish to congratulate you on your recent purchase of one of our sailboats. We are convinced that you will further appreciate your purchase as you progress with the finishing of your boat.

  • Page 6: Table Of Contents

    
 BUILDER’S GUIDE CORBIN 39 CHAPTER I PLAN DETAILS Sheet 1 Interior Layout --------------------------------------------------- Sheet 2 Sailplan ---------------------------------------------------------- Sheet 3 Deck Layout ----------------------------------------------------- Sheet 4 Stations ---------------------------------------------------------- Sheet 5 Stations, Tanks, and Plumbing --------------------------------- Sheet 6 dc Electrical and Bonding...
  • Page 7 CHAPTER V BEFORE THE BOAT ARRIVES GROUND ------------------------------------------------------------------ DIMENSIONS -------------------------------------------------------------- IMPORTANT --------------------------------------------------------------- LEVELLING ---------------------------------------------------------------- STAIRS --------------------------------------------------------------------- INSURANCE --------------------------------------------------------------- SAFETY -------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER VI BALLAST CASTING ------------------------------------------------------------------ LEAD SHOTS OR INGOTS ----------------------------------------------- LEAD OR STEEL PUNCHINGS ------------------------------------------ POLYESTER RESIN ------------------------------------------------------- LEVELLING ---------------------------------------------------------------- LAMINATIONS ------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER VII...
  • Page 8 BULKHEADS -------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER X TEMPLATES AND BULKHEADS TEMPLATES --------------------------------------------------------------- CUTTING THE BULKHEADS --------------------------------------------- AIREX CUSHION ---------------------------------------------------------- LAMINATIONS ------------------------------------------------------------- BULKHEAD LAMINATION ------------------------------------------------ CHAPTER XI BONDING AIM ------------------------------------------------------------------------- WIRE TYPE ---------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER XII PLUMBING PIPES ---------------------------------------------------------------------- TANKS --------------------------------------------------------------------- DIESEL TANKS ------------------------------------------------------------ CHAPTER XIII ELECTRICITY WIRING --------------------------------------------------------------------...
  • Page 9 STUFFING BOX ----------------------------------------------------------- ENGINE -------------------------------------------------------------------- ENGINE BED -------------------------------------------------------------- ANGLE IRON -------------------------------------------------------------- MAKE OF ENGINE -------------------------------------------------------- TRANSMISSION ---------------------------------------------------------- ENGINE LOCATION ------------------------------------------------------- STANDARD ---------------------------------------------------------------- ACCESS ------------------------------------------------------------------- SAIL DRIVE ---------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER XV TANKS RUBBER PADS ------------------------------------------------------------ REMOVABLE -------------------------------------------------------------- POLYURETHANE ---------------------------------------------------------- BAFFLES ------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER XVI SOLES HEIGHT --------------------------------------------------------------------...
  • Page 10 INTERIOR EQUIPMENT a) STOVES ----------------------------------------------------------------- b) HEATING ---------------------------------------------------------------- c) REFRIGERATION ------------------------------------------------------- d) LIGHTING --------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER XIX COMPLETION OF THE PLUMBING PIPES ---------------------------------------------------------------------- SINKS ---------------------------------------------------------------------- PUMPS -------------------------------------------------------------------- HOT WATER --------------------------------------------------------------- SHOWER ------------------------------------------------------------------ SHOWER DRAIN ---------------------------------------------------------- SEPTIC TANK ------------------------------------------------------------- BILGE PUMPS ------------------------------------------------------------ HEAD ----------------------------------------------------------------------- SEACOCKS...
  • Page 11 a) HATCHES -------------------------------------------------------------- b) DORADES -------------------------------------------------------------- c) TRACKS ----------------------------------------------------------------- e) ANCHORS -------------------------------------------------------------- f) CAPSTANS ------------------------------------------------------------- g) TEAK -------------------------------------------------------------------- h) BOWSPRIT ------------------------------------------------------------- i) PEDESTAL STEERING -------------------------------------------------- j) CABLES DIMENSIONS ------------------------------------------------- k) TURNBUCKLES -------------------------------------------------------- m) RUNNING BACKSTAYS ----------------------------------------------- il) WINCHES --------------------------------------------------------------- o) MAST -------------------------------------------------------------------- p) SAIL LOCKERS ---------------------------------------------------------...
  • Page 12 CHAPTER XXVI 111 NAVIGATION EQUIPMENT 111 a) CHARTS --------------------------------------------------------------- 111 b) SEXTANT -------------------------------------------------------------- 111 c) BEARING COMPASS ------------------------------------------------- 112 d) PARALLEL RULE ----------------------------------------------------- 112 e) CALCULATORS ------------------------------------------------------- 112 g) PILOTING AMD NAVIGATION COURSES -------------------------- 113 CHAPTER XXVII 114 COMMISSIONING 114 CHAPTER XXVIII 115 WINTERIZATION...

  • Page 13: Plan Details

    CHAPTER I PLAN DETAILS Here is a list of the plans you should have received: 1. Interior Layout 2. Sailplan 3. Deck Layout (cutter) 4. Stations and chainplates 5. Stations, Tanks and Plumbing 6. dc Electrical and Bonding Systems 7. Rudder 8.

  • Page 14: Sheet 1 Interior Layout

    Sheet 1 Interior Layout...

  • Page 15: Sheet 2 Sailplan

    Sheet 2 Sailplan...

  • Page 16: Sheet 3 Deck Layout

    Sheet 3 Deck Layout...

  • Page 17: Sheet 4 Stations

    Sheet 4 Stations...

  • Page 18: Sheet 5 Stations, Tanks, And Plumbing

    Sheet 5 Stations, Tanks, and Plumbing...

  • Page 19: Sheet 6 Dc Electrical And Bonding

    Sheet 6 dc Electrical and Bonding...

  • Page 20: Sheet 7 Rudder

    Sheet 7 Rudder...

  • Page 21: Sheet 8 Engine

    Sheet 8 Engine...

  • Page 22: Sheet 14 Plumbing

    Sheet 14 Plumbing...

  • Page 23: Specifications

    CORBIN 39 _ "EDITION SPECIALE” SPECIFICATIONS Lengths • on deck 38’6” 11.74 m. • overall 41’6” 12.65 m. • waterline 32’ 9.75 m. • beam 12’1” 3.68 m. 22,800 lbs 10,300 kg. Displacement 9,000 lbs 4,100 kg. Ballast Sail Area •...

  • Page 24: Package Details

    CHAPTER II PACKAGE DETAILS The following list details what you should receive with each package, up to and including package “D": PACKAGE " A " ASSEMBLED HULL AND DECK • fibreglass, Airex cored, hull • fibreglass plywood cored, deck and cabin •...

  • Page 25: Package " B

    - 13 - PACKAGE " B » STRUCTURE All of package "A", plus: •6 structural bulkheads (3/4" marine mahogany plywood, 9 plies, laminated in hull and deck on both sides). • sail lockers and chain locker glassed in place • ballast glassed in the keel •...

  • Page 26: Package " D

    - 14 - • navigation lights • Edson manual bilge pump - • bow and stern pulpit with bowsprit • all stanchions with one life line • 2 cockpit drains and 2 deck drains • seacock on engine water in-take PACKAGE "...

  • Page 27: Options And Complete Boat

    CHAPTER III OPTIONS AND COMPLETE BOAT OPTION "A" - FURNITURE This option is available starting at package "B" and includes the roughed-in furniture in mahogany and teak, without moldings. For example, in the dinette area, the top of the settees are made of 3/4" mahogany plywood, whereas the front section is made of teak faced 1/2"...

  • Page 28: Completed Boat

    - 16 - COMPLETED BOAT • ¥-33 Westerbeke engine V-drive • pedestal steering • 104 U.S. gallon fuel tank • 2 deck drains • 4 cockpit drains • cutter rig • staysail track • 130 U.S. gallon water tanks ( 4 ) •...
  • Page 29 - 17 - • 3-burner range with oven (kerosene, alcohol or propane) • 4" seat cushions • 2" seat backrest cushions • 6" sofa cushions and mattresses • water system • wet locker and bilge drain Is” manual bilge pump two galley sinks overboard discharge head •...
  • Page 30 CHAPTER IV GENERAL INFORMATION At this point, we believe you should decide whether you will completely finish the boat before launching it, or if you will accept the compromise of taking longer to complete it while having the use of the unfinished boat during the summer months.

  • Page 31: Before The Boat Arrives

    CHAPTER V BEFORE THE BOAT ARRIVES GROUND First, you must level the ground where the cradle will rest. The surface need not be concrete, wood beams are sufficient. Always remember that the boat must rest on its keel and the cradle only keeps the boat in a vertical position, thus it will carry approximately 10$ of the weight of the boat.

  • Page 32: Stairs

    - 20- the boat sits properly on the cradle, ail you have to do is level the longitudinal beams to level the waterline. Do not be too fussy about the levelling. The boat should be as level as possible, however, I am sure you realize that rarely will the boat be level once it is in the water.

  • Page 33: Safety

    - 21 - remains so until the boat leaves the trailer. It then becomes the responsibility of the crane company and remains so until the boat touches the ground. We, therefore, recommend that you make sure that your carrier and crane company are well insured and that your own policy becomes effective the moment the final payment is made SAFETY...

  • Page 34: Ballast

    CHAPTER VI BALLAST CASTING DO NOT POUR HOT LEAD IN THE KEEL AS HOT LEAD FUMES ARE CONSIDERED A HIGH HEALTH HAZARD Moreover, the heat applied to the polyester resin by the hot lead will accelerate the ageing process of the resin. This would cause the polyester to become more brittle and what normally takes one hundred years could occur in the time it takes to pour the lead in...

  • Page 35: Polyester Resin

    - 23 - POLYESTER RESIN Your next step is to pour polyester resin catalyzed at 1 %, (more if the temperature is below 70°F). Make sure that all the cracks and voids between the shots or bricks are filled. The keel must be absolutely dry during this operation since water will neutralize the catalyzing agent.
  • Page 36 - 24 - We use "More Bond 306" from "Morevan" because it is completely waterproof and slow curing. It does not become as hot as the other putties which if not properly catalyzed reach a temperature that could cause spontaneous combustion.

  • Page 37: F.r.p. Lamination Technique

    CHAPTER VII F.R.P. LAMINATION TECHNIQUE The following procedure should be used to laminate the keel, the bulkheads and all other laminations required. MATERIAL To laminate the keel and bulkheads, you require a 45 gal. drum of resin which has a wax content, 1 gallon of catalyst n 50 M , 2 X 5 gal.

  • Page 38: Keel Lamination

    - 26 - Also remove any leftovers and the catalyst from the boat. Do not put the catalyst"in a metal container other than stainless steel, it reacts with iron oxide and could cause spontaneous combustion. As a reference, a container with between 4 and 5 gallons of resin requires 125 cc. of methyl-ethyl-ketone- peroxide at 50# to have a catalyzation factor of about 1 #.

  • Page 39: Builder's Guide Corbin

    - 27 - If the laminations have a tendency to fall when you laminate the top of the bulkhead to the deck, the cause could only be too little or too much resin between the material and the deck. For this operation, we recommend smaller quantities of resin with a higher percentage of catalyst.

  • Page 40: Chainplates

    CHAPTER VIII CHAINPLATES When the lead laminations are completed, we recommend that you proceed with the installation of the chainplates. ANGLES The proper angle to install the chainplates is indicated on the Sail Plan and Deck Plan. Transferring the proper angle can be done easily with a level that has a graduated moving centre.

  • Page 41: Bulkheads

    CHAPTER IX BULKHEADS MAHOGANY We recommend that you use 3/4", 9-ply, mahogany plywood for all the bulkheads. Mahogany is mildew and termite resistant. We assume the boat will also be used in tropical climates. It is relatively simple to rebuild a piece of furniture that has been damaged by mildew or termites.
  • Page 42 - 30- All the bulkheads, except one, are perpendicular to centre line and should be drawn accordingly. Double check for perpendicularity by measuring the distance between bulkheads at each end. The one that is at an angle is also critical since it determines the space available in the head, and the length of the forward berth.

  • Page 43: Templates And Bulkheads

    CHAPTER X TEMPLATES AND BULKHEADS TEMPLATES We believe that the easiest method to trace bulkheads is by temporarily fastening a piece of plywood, 1 or 2 1 wide, on the centre line of the boat where the bulkhead will be. Mark the centre line on the plywood.

  • Page 44: Laminations

    - 32 - LAMINATIONS Another suggestion is to use "More Bond" or any other putty to hold the bulkhead in place while laminating it. This putty gives you ample time to properly place and level the bulkhead before it hardens. Don't be concerned about voids between the bulkhead and the deck or hull.

  • Page 45: Bonding

    CHAPTER XI BONDING AIM The next step is the bonding system. The bonding system is actually a ground wire that joins all the metal fittings above and below the water line thus reducing the possibility of damage caused by lightning or electrolysis. For this reason, avoid sharp turns in the wiring.
  • Page 46 - 34 - Fibreglass should be used to keep the wire in place. All connections should be soldered and coated with silicone. Never use the ballast as a ground since it is enclosed in fibreglass and has no contact with water.

  • Page 47: Plumbing

    CHAPTER XII PLUMBING PIPES For the plumbing on your boat, we recommend the use of PVC or ABS pipes, using flexible plastic or rubber connections to the various fittings. Seacocks should be used on all thru-hulls below the waterline. You will note on the general plumbing diagram that we recommend the use of a manifold in different areas.

  • Page 48: Diesel Tanks

    - 36- DIESEL TANKS Tanks for diesel or kerosene can only be made of aluminum or black iron. Because of the weight of black iron, we recommend the use of aluminum. The tanks should have access holes only on the top never on the sides or bottom. Even the water removal access hole should be on the top of the tank.

  • Page 49: Electricity

    CHAPTER XIII ELECTRICITY WIRING We believe that you should install the basic wiring at this time. The wiring should be installed as high as possible and accessible at all times. CONDUITS We do not think that conduits are necessary, but if use them, they should have a removable cover. You should make a wiring harness, using the teak cap rail as a guide.

  • Page 50: Schematic

    - 38 - SCHEMATIC Your A.C. and D.C. boxes should contain a schematic of the wiring, with identification numbers. The wiring must be installed as high as possible in the boat. As much as possible, avoid using the bilge for this purpose. If you must go through the bilge, place the wire in a hose and seal both ends with silicone.
  • Page 51 - 39 - These identifications symbols are then marked on the electrical diagram which is stored near the electrical panel. In a further chapter, we will elaborate on the final installation of the electrical system as well as mention a battery charging system, lighting, etc.

  • Page 52: Engine

    CHAPTER XIV ENGINE It is recommended that the engine be installed at this time. There is still a lot of room to manoeuvre to make sure it is properly aligned. STRUT The first step in installing the engine is to determine, by using the plan, the exact location of the strut.

  • Page 53: Engine

    - 41 - ENGINE After the stuffing box is installed, support the shaft slightly upward to relieve its weight on the lower part of the stuffing box, lower the engine and insert the propeller shaft into the "Hurth" V- drive transmission. The adjustable engine supports are then centred in such a way as to allow upward and downward adjustments later on.

  • Page 54: Angle Iron

    - 42 - ANGLE IRON An angle iron is then bolted to each of the engine beds and the engine supports are bolted to them. The adjustment is then made to insure that the transmission flange and the shaft flange align perfectly.

  • Page 55: Engine Location

    - 43 - ENGINE LOCATION Different locations for the engine are possible and one will surely satisfy the layout you have chosen. In the "EDITION SPECIALE" version, we recommend a V-drive installation using a "Hurth" gear box. We were against this type of installation first because V-drives were hydraulic and the alignment of the shaft and engine had to be done under the engine.

  • Page 56: Access

    - 44 - ACCESS You will note that in the "EDITION SPECIALE", there is an access hatch in the cockpit to allow removal or installation of the engine from the outside. SAIL DRIVE Another type of installation allows you to install the engine in the aft section.

  • Page 57: Tanks

    CHAPTER XV TANKS If not already done, you should now install the tanks. Use 3/4" plywood and laminate it to the hull leaving space around the tanks. RUBBER PADS You must leave enough space around the tanks to insert rubber pads to fit the tank firmly in place. Rubber pads should also be installed to secure the tanks and avoid any direct contact between the hull and the tanks.

  • Page 58: Baffles

    - 46 - BAFFLES Keep in mind that all tanks should be provided with baffles longitudinally and across at a minimum of 16" to 18" apart. All access to diesel or kerosene tanks must be on the top of the tank. Drains, even for water, should not be on the side or under the tank.

  • Page 59: Soles

    CHAPTER XVI SOLES The time has now come to install the sole and the following should be kept in mind: HEIGHT a) the sole should be as level as possible (when we say level, we refer to the waterline); b) the headroom inside the boat is very important, not only for those living aboard, but also for potential buyers.

  • Page 60: Measurements

    - 48 - MEASUREMENTS To establish the height of the sole, measure the distance on the plan at the centre bulkhead, that is the one in front of the pilothouse, and establish its height on the bulkhead itself. The sole in front of this bulkhead should be installed level, regardless of where it meets the other bulkheads.

  • Page 61: Facing

    - 49 - FACING The sole should be made of 3/4" mahogany plywood (1/2” is the minimum). We recommend that all openings in the floor be cut before the sole is permanently in place. Do not worry if the plywood does not completely reach the sides of the hull, you will be able to fill any gap with putty and the sole will later be surfaced with 1/4"...

  • Page 62: Furniture

    CHAPTER XVII FURNITURE a) LAYOUT CHANGES Think twice before making any changes to the layout that we recommend. All the dimensions that you see on the plan have been carefully thought out and a small change of only a few inches will provoke a chain reaction which will have no end. If you absolutely wish to make a change, please consult with us first, and we will give you our opinion of the alteration.

  • Page 63: B) Wood

    - 51 - is the probable maximum in our opinion. Our layouts were carefully designed considering the volume of the boat and its main use which is ocean travelling. b) WOOD For your furniture, we suggest you use a hard wood of your choosing, be it oak, teak or good quality mahogany and to build a frame which will be laminated with the wood of your choice.

  • Page 64: D} Navigation Table

    - 52 - d} NAVIGATION TABLE We believe the dimensions of the navigation table are mandatory. It is large enough to unfold a standard size map and has compartments that allow for orderly storage. The built-in hull side cupboard is designed for vertical map storage.

  • Page 65: F) Cushions

    - 53- f) CUSHIONS Cushions covered with synthetic materials are almost indestructible but most of them are very uncomfortable. In any case, you will probably want to change them in a few years, even if only to change the decor inside your boat. We recommend a fabric made of 100$ cotton, or one with a high cotton content.

  • Page 66: Interior Equipment

    CHAPTER XVIII INTERIOR EQUIPMENT You have now reached the stage where you must install all the equipment required to have a properly functioning boat. You must now finalize the electrical and plumbing installations. a) STOVES The stove that you install must be gimballed, do not buy stoves meant for trailers since most of them will not resist a salty atmosphere.
  • Page 67 - 55 - Kerosene produces a very hot flame and is odourless when used properly. Some inconveniences are that you have to pre-heat the burner before lighting it? this is done with either alcohol or a butane torch. However, the burners get dirty and have to be cleaned often.

  • Page 68: B) Heating

    - 56 - of the stove, they will also heat the interior of the boat. Unless you want to use it as a heating system as well as a stove, you should use a two-burner stove on top of it for summer cooking. If you wish to have a heater and stove in one unit, the "Dickenson 1 ' is unsurpassable.

  • Page 69: C) Refrigeration

    “Adler-Barbour” has designed many refrigeration units for Corbin 39's. The thickness of insulation around the unit is very important and should never be less than 4”. If at all...

  • Page 70: D) Lighting

    - 58 - must be waterproof before you pour the liquid foam since it will enter any small cracks and expand behind them. It is also recommended that the interior of the compartment be lined with aluminum foil, with the bright side facing towards the interior.

  • Page 71: Completion Of The Plumbing

    CHAPTER XIX COMPLETION OF THE PLUMBING PIPES As mentioned previously, we recommend the use of ABS or PVC with flexible joints at the fixtures. Do not use copper pipes. The exclusive use of flexible pipes is expensive and in our opinion unnecessary.

  • Page 72: Shower

    - 60 - SHOWER We recommend a small hot water tank, not larger than 5 gallons, installed near the shower. The water is heated on the stove and poured in the tank. Fill the balance of the tank with cold water and activate the shower with either an electric pump, a foot pump, or air pressure.

  • Page 73: Head

    - 61 - above system. In the "Edson" pump system, a piece of wood which enters one end of the hose will be ejected at the other end. The hose used for the bilge pump should be of the "vacuum" type to insure that it will not collapse because of the suction.

  • Page 74: Desalinator

    - 62 - DESALINATOR Water purifier and desalination systems are available now. These systems such as the one manufactured by "H.R.O. Systems" cost a minimum of $3,000 and produce between 100 and 400 gallons of water a day. They do, however, require a 110-volt system or a pump installed on the engine.

  • Page 75: Batteries

    CHAPTER XX BATTERIES We recommend a two-part battery system. a) ENGINE One 100 amp. battery should be used exclusively to start the engine. There should be no connection between this battery and the other electrical systems on the boat. Your source of energy is the engine and as long as you can start it, you will be able to supply electricity where needed.

  • Page 76: Quemalt

    The first tests of this system were made by "Quintal Electric Marine" on a CORBIN 39. With a 3-blade, 18" X 12" propeller, the alternator began charging at 3 knots and was delivering 20 amps at 7 knots.

  • Page 77: Final Installation Of The Engine

    CHAPTER XXI FINAL INSTALLATION OF THE ENGINE HOSES Only hoses designed for diesel fuel should be used. Copper should be used only as the flexible joints at both ends. Remember that your diesel engine has a return hose to the tank. "Westerbeke" recommends that you bring the return hose to the bottom of the tank in order to prevent air from reaching the fuel pump through this hose which would...

  • Page 78: Filters

    - 66 - FILTERS lour fuel should be filtered several times before it reaches the engine. Some filters block solid material while others trap water. Both are absolutely necessary and should be checked regularly. As a matter of fact, they have the habit of blocking the fuel flow at the worst times.
  • Page 79 Dorval (Quebec) H9R 1A7 Tel.: (5H) 631-3555 The 3-cylinder "Volvo" engine is very adequate for the Corbin 39 and its reputation speaks for itself. This engine is available in V-drivo and sail drive configurations. 4. "PERKINS 4-108" Concord Diesel Ltd.
  • Page 80 - 68 - 5. "BUKH 3-CYLINDER" Concord Diesel Ltd. 1565 Brittania Rd. E. Unit 40 Mississauga Ont. L4W 1J2 Tel.: (416) 678-9330 This engine which is also sold by "Concord Diesel” is a very sophisticated 3-cylinder engine which even has counterweights to minimize vibrations. It is almost vibration-free and its quality is well established.
  • Page 81 "Universal" manufactures a new series of diesel engines, one of which is 40 H.P. and ideal for the Corbin 39. You should order it with a "Hurth" V- drive with a 2:1 or 3:1 reduction gear. 9. B.M.W. - 3-cylinder B.M.W.
  • Page 82 Tel. (617) 588-7700 "Westerbeke" manufactures a W-33, 33 H.P. engine which is well adapted to the Corbin. When fitted with a V- drive from "Hurth", it fits perfectly in our boat. The engine is based on the famous "Mitsubishi" diesel. The...

  • Page 83: A) Hatches

    They should have a double frame allowing them to be opened forward and aft. "Atkins & Hoyle" (refer to #11 in the suppliers’ list) manufacture very good quality hatches and the Corbin 39 was designed with these hatches in mind. b) DORADES The dorade system must allow proper ventilation of the boat without letting in water.

  • Page 84: E) Anchors

    "00" wire.' If you buy one of these, consider the cost of the wiring as well as the starter. We have installed many "Galley Maid" units made in Florida. This company soils a vertical model which is well adapted to the Corbin 39.
  • Page 85 - 73 - They are very efficient, however, like any electrical motor which is exposed to sea air, they must be carefully maintained. MANUAL "Simpson-Lawrence" (#86) has a two-speed manual windlass #5550000 which we consider ideal for our boat. When you order your windlass or capstan, be sure to order the chain bobcat which is suitable to the type of chain you will use.

  • Page 86: G) Teak

    - 74 - g) TEAK There is very little teak on the outside of the boat, so only the best quality should be used. Avoid the use of "Afromosia" which is not teak. Use only Burma teak. VARNISH OR OIL On the outside, we believe it is more practical to wash the wood and oil it, rather than varnish and have to re-varnish continuously.

  • Page 87: I) Pedestal Steering

    - 75 - i) PEDESTAL STEERING CABLE SYSTEM We favour two or even three totally independent steering systems. It i3 easy to install a good cable system in the cockpit because of its proximity to the rudder shaft. However, all systems are not adequate. We recommend the "Edson"...

  • Page 88: J) Cables Dimensions

    PEDESTAL Neither the pedestal nor the compass should exceed 5"• A 6" pedestal looks too bulky in a Corbin 39 and is of course more expensive. The stainless steel guard is a necessity and we found the installation of a teak table on this guard very convenient.

  • Page 89: K) Turnbuckles

    - 77 - SHEATHED CABLES It is recommended that all cables be sheathed with leather or plastic in areas where there is friction. Also keep a few extra lengths of cable in reserve. HALYARDS We highly recommend pre-stretched type of halyards rather than wire cables.
  • Page 90 BOBSTAY As for the bobstay "Navtec" (#68) make a 5/8" steel rod with adjustments at both ends and it can be ordered under the name of "Corbin 39's Bobstay". 1) JIFFY-REEFING We recommend a jiffy-reefing system for the boat. When properly installed, this system will...

  • Page 91: M) Running Backstays

    - 79 - allow you to reduce sails in approximately ten seconds. To operate properly, all cables must be in the eyelets on the sail and each cable must hav? its sheaves ready for use. We recommend that these cables be left in place at all times, ej? te evert' unougrt' they may cause a little turbulence at the...

  • Page 92: Il) Winches

    - 80 - il) WINCHES The winches that we consider absolutely necessary are the two primaries on the cockpit coaming, the two winches on the cabin top which are used for sheeting the main and the staysail and, evidently, the three halyard winches on the mast and the small winch used for the reefing system.

  • Page 94: O) Mast

    o) MAST Note that the dimensions of the mast are generally based on the manufacturer's recommendations. As far as we are concerned, it is useless to over dimension the mast. It is preferable to make the shrouds and stays larger. We have already provided additional strength in our plans and they are meant for use at sea.

  • Page 95: P) Sail Lockers

    - 8 MANUFACTURERS We have to-date used masts from "Annapolis Spars" (#7) and are entirely satisfied. However, considering the value of the French franc, it becomes interesting to consider "Iso-Masts" (#50) made in France. Moreover, the mast is exceptionally well designed and the technology used to build it has no equal on the North- American market.
  • Page 96 - 82 - DRAINAGE Secondly, they must drain 'towards the outside of the boat, and be properly ventilated to prevent development of mildew in your sails or on your anchor ropes. LOCKING HANDLES Moreover, the locking handles should be of the type that keeps the sail lockers closed when the boat is under sail.

  • Page 97: Q) Cockpit Lockers

    - 83- q) COCKPIT LOCKERS From the cockpit, you have access to three lockers. One completely aft, under the helmsman's seat and usually called the lazaret and which can be used to store a life raft or a tank. If used for a propane storage tank, it must be completely sealed from the inside of the boat and have a drain to the outside at its lowest point.

  • Page 98: R) Companionway

    - 84 - DRAINAGE The portside locker sole should be angled to permit drainage, and the drain itself connected to the drain manifold. As for the one on the starboard side, it is so deep that it should drain in the bilge. If you prefer, you could seal it completely from the inside of the boat, install a grate in the bottom to keep the contents of the lockers dry, and occasionally drain the...

  • Page 99: S) Pulpits

    - 85 - We recommend drop boards instead of doors, since the latter are very hard to keep watertight. Furthermore, drop boards allow you to adjust the size of the opening according to weather conditions. s) PULPITS The stanchions and pulpits must be 30” high with the exception of the mast pulpits which should be 40"•...
  • Page 100 - 86- "General Electric" has determined that polysulphite contains a solvent that could eventually cause cracks in the Lexan. GLUEING You should avoid bolting through the polycarbonate. It should be glued and sealed with silicone, or held in place by a frame on the outside of either aluminium, copper or stainless steel which can be bolted through the structure and not through the polycarbonate.

  • Page 101: U) Suit Of Sails

    - 87 - u) SUIT OF SAILS Your suit of sails should consist basically of one mainsail with three reefs, one staysail and one #1 yankee. The other sails that are recommended are two storm sails, a 150 % light genoa and, if you wish, either a DRS or a tri-radial spinnaker.

  • Page 102: Storage Compartments

    CHAPTER XXIII STORAGE COMPARTMENTS DRAWERS Evidently, you must utilize as much of the space in the boat. We have found that even though a sx-orage area can cotriain more material if it is accessible from the top, drawers are far more convenient to use. We, therefore, suggest that you use as many drawers as possible.
  • Page 103 REPLACEMENT PARTS You should have replacement parts on the boat for every pump that you have on board. Replacement burners for your stove and re-construction kits for the burners, re- construction kits for winches and a long-range repair kit for your engine and a few rigging parts such as a turnbuckle body, sheaves, etc.
  • Page 104 - 90 - SAILS AND ANCHORS Sails and anchor chains are stored in their own compartments forward and the anchors are hooked on the bowsprit. All additional anchors should be stored in the cockpit locker. SHEETS Spare sheets should be carried in the cockpit compartment. KEROSENE For those who use kerosene, we recommend that you install a kerosene tank in the lazaret under the sole.

  • Page 105: Safety Equipment

    The following is a list of mandatory security equipment for a 39' boat. These rules also apply in the United States, as both countries generally accept the rules of the other.
  • Page 106 - 92 - One Class B-II fire extinguisher - if vessel is power driven, or has a cooking or heating appliance that burns liquid or gaseous fuel. Lights must comply with "Collision Regulations. Sound device must comply with "Collision Regulations.* One approved life ring buoy 610 or 762 nun in diameter.
  • Page 107 - six A, B, or C types, and - six A, B, C, or D types. NOTE: The Corbin 39 falls into the category of boats under 12 meters, but we strongly recommend that you use the (b) regulations since security on board will be much greater.

  • Page 108: Electronic Equipment

    - 94 - CHAPTER XXV ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT a) VHF Every boat should have a VHF on board although it is not mandatory by D.O.T. regulations. The antenna must be installed on the mast and provision must be made for the antenna cable in the mast. Only the best quality connectors should be used on deck for the antenna connection.

  • Page 109: D) Loran

    - 95 - the boat that 100 sq. ft. of copper chicken wire is somehow attached to the inside of the deck of the boat. Also, the backstay becomes the antenna for the unit, and the part of the backstay which is used as an antenna must be isolated from the top and bottom part of the backstay.

  • Page 110: G) Others

    soon be 50 such satellites. At the present time, you may have to wait between 30 minutes to 1-1/2 hours to determine your position depending on which latitude you are travelling. Soon, when all the satellites are in orbit, you will be able to pinpoint your location anytime day or night.

  • Page 111: Navigation Equipment

    - 97 - CHAPTER XXVI NAVIGATION EQUIPMENT a) CHARTS You must have on board small scale charts of the oceans which you intend to travel. Larger scale charts of the areas where you intend to dock will also be necessary. For the eastern coast of the United States, we recommend that you buy the "Chart Kits"...

  • Page 112: C) Bearing Compass

    - 98 - c) BEARING COMPASS The bearing compass is an absolute necessity. Some called mini-compasses are so small they can be carried around your neck and they are very efficient. Some are also installed on binoculars and are very convenient for long distance sightings.

  • Page 113: G) Piloting Amd Navigation Courses

    - 99 - g) PILOTING AMD NAVIGATION COURSES We presume that you have taken or intend to take a course on piloting and navigation. The piloting course will teach you how to travel close to the coast, whereas the navigation course will teach you how to use a sextant thus allowing ocean crossings.

  • Page 114: Commissioning

    - 100 - CHAPTER XXVII COMMISSIONING We assume that you took great care in covering the bottom of your boat with anti-fouling paint and that all the seacocks are closed. You are on board your boat which is suspended above the water by a crane.

  • Page 115: Winterization

    - 101 - CHAPTER XXVIII WINTERIZATION As for winterization, we recommend that you make your own list of things to be done. Here is an example: Empty all water manifolds and connect the cockpit drains directly to the seacocks; Block deck drains and sail locker drains; Pump antifreeze in the head;...

  • Page 116: Air Bubbles

    - 102 - CHAPTER XXIX AIR BUBBLES If an air bubble appears under the gelcoat, we suggest that you inject it with gelcoat using a syringe. People tend to over-react to small gelcoat problems which are strictly aesthetic. No finish on a boat is permanent, not even gelcoat.

  • Page 117: Suppliers

    SUPPLIERS...
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  • Page 150 - 135- Pages 136 to 148 cover swinging the compass and are not reproduced here.
  • Page 151 - 149 - Pages 149 - 166 were from the Nico-Fico catalog pages covering rigging, block sizing, and similar topics. Nicro-Fico was acquired by Ronstan around 1993. Similar information is available from the Harken and Lewmar websites. Unfortunately, Ronstan seems not have continued the technical information in their catalogue or website.
  • Page 152 - 167 167 - 172 are excerpts from the Canadian Buoyage System and the Safe Boating Guide. The information is out-of-date and not reproduced here. See website for links to similar information.
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  • Page 154 HULL AND DECK ARRANGEMENTS 
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