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Summary of Contents for Evil Mad Scientist AxiDraw MiniKit
- Page 1 AxiDraw MiniKit Assembly Guide Model 2540 Assembly guide v 1.0 https://emsl.us/924 Last updated: December 13, 2019...
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Page 2: About This Guide And This Kit
About this guide and this kit Warning: Small parts This is the assembly guide for the AxiDraw MiniKit, a spe- This kit is not a toy. It contains a great number of small cial compact “DIY kit” version of the AxiDraw writing and parts that should be kept out of reach of children. -
Page 3: Table Of Contents
Table of Contents 3.4 X Carriage Idler Pulleys ......27 About this guide and this kit ......2 3.5 Y-Wheel Supports........28 Getting help ........... 2 3.6 Preset Y Eccentrics ........ 31 Software ............2 3.7 Front X Wheels ........32 Warning: Small parts ........ - Page 4 5.7 Complete the wiring ......67 5.8 Servo horn ..........71 5.9 Servo calibration ........72 Part 6: Using AxiDraw MiniKit ......75 6.1 Accessories ..........76 6.2 The AxiDraw User Guide ...... 77 6.3 Special considerations for MiniKit ..77 6.3.1 Pause button ..........77...
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Page 5: Part 1: Tools
Part 1: Tools... -
Page 6: Required Tools
1.1 Required tools To assemble the AxiDraw MiniKit, you will need certain general-purpose tools that are not included with the kit. These required tools are: 1. Either A scissors or B wire clippers 2. A Phillips #1 size screwdriver, C 3. -
Page 7: Included Tools
Most of the wrenches are only needed during assembly, but #3, the ball-end wrench, will continue to be useful in regular everyday operation of the AxiDraw MiniKit. -
Page 8: Part 2: The Base
Part 2: The Base... -
Page 9: Parts In The Base Assembly
2.1 Parts in the base assembly #8, MiniKit Base Rail (1) #23, EBB Driver Board (1) #16, Rail Endcap (2) #9, Stepper Motor (2) #24, White Nylon Washer (4) #17, M4×8 Torx Tapping Screw (6) #10, Timing Belt Pulley (2) #25, Black Nylon Spacers (4) #18, Ballast Weight (1) #11, M4 Square Nut (5) -
Page 10: Add Pulleys To Motors
2.2 Add pulleys to motors 1. Locate the flat face (A) on the shafts of the stepper motors, #9. 2. Observe that the timing belt pulleys, part #10, each have two set screws (B). The wrench for these screws is the 2 mm ball-end hex wrench (#3). - Page 11 §2.2 Add pulleys to motors, continued 5. Firmly tighten the set screw against the flat face of the motor shaft, using the short end of the hex wrench (E). 6. Tighten the second set screw on the pulley, again using the short end of the hex wrench.
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Page 12: Endstops
2.3 X Endstops In this step we will begin working with the extrusions. These extrusions have extremely sharp points and edges. Handle them with appropriate care. 1. Identify the M4 square nuts #11, the X-endstops, #12, and the M4×16 button socket cap screws, #13. - Page 13 §2.3 X Endstops, continued 4. Using your 2.5 mm hex L-wrench (#4) – not your fingers – press the square nut in a little further, until it lines up with the first hole (D). 5. Carefully turn the base rail upside down, keeping the square nut in place (E).
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Page 14: Mount The Motors
2.4 Mount the motors 1. Before mounting the motors, check for any stray or loose aluminum “flashing” or burrs on the exposed outer edges of the Base Rail. If there are any, you can remove them with the side of a screwdriver blade or a hobby knife. - Page 15 §2.4 Mount the motors, continued 4. Insert the 8 aluminum spacers into the four pockets around each pulley (C), and then insert an M3×16 screw into each spacer. 5. Use the 2 mm ball-end hex wrench (#3) to thread each screw into the place (D). 6.
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Page 16: Ballast And Motor Wire
2.5 Ballast and motor wire The ballast weight may have sharp edges; Handle with care. 1. Identify the two nylon loop clamps #19 and the M4×20 Torx tapping screws, #21. These screws can be identified by the star-shaped socket on their heads and length of approximately 20 mm, as measured below the head. - Page 17 §2.5 Ballast and motor wire, continued 7. Use the Torx L-wrench, #2, to fasten the screw into place (D). Take care to only tighten it until it is just secure; do not over-tighten. 8. Add the second nylon loop clamp in the same way and fasten it into place (E).
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Page 18: Base Endcap
2.6 Base Endcap 1. Identify the rail endcap #16 and the M4×8 Torx tapping screws, #17. These screws can be identified by the star- shaped socket on their heads and length of approxi- mately 8 mm, as measured below the head. 2. -
Page 19: Ebb Support
2.7 EBB Support 1. Position the EBB support #22 at the open end of the base rail, where the loose wires are. Set it upright, such that you can read the text, and align the two large holes up with the matching holes in the end of the base rail. 2. -
Page 20: Mounting The Ebb
2.8 Mounting the EBB 1. Identify the EBB driver board #23, the white nylon washers #24, the black nylon spacers #25, and the M3 kep nuts #26. The spacers are short black plastic tubes, and the nuts are distinguished by having a built-in toothed washer. - Page 21 §2.8 Mounting the EBB, continued 4. Orient the EBB driver board such that the power jack and USB port face towards the “Axidraw MiniKit” logo. Then, two at a time, guide the four screws into the corner holes of the EBB support (C,D).
- Page 22 §2.8 Mounting the EBB, continued 6. Install the second “upper” M3 kep nut in the same way. 7. For the lower two M3 kep nuts, there isn’t room for a finger to place the nut in position. Instead, pull the M3 screw out slightly (G) and use your 2.5 mm hex L-wrench to push the nut against the EBB support while you turn the screw enough to engage the threads (H).
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Page 23: Part 3: The X Carriage
Part 3: The X Carriage... -
Page 24: Parts In The X Carriage Assembly
3.1 Parts in the X Carriage Assembly #27, Carriage Plate (1) #33, Stamped washer, M4×10×1 (4) #39, M4×22 Button-head Screw (5) #28, Y Endstop (1) #34, MF104 Ball Bearing (8) #40, Roller Wheel (8) #29, M4×12 Low Profile Screws (10) #35, M4×8×12 Hex Standoff (2) #41, M4 Nylon locknut (4) #30, Precision Shim, M4×8×0.5 (4) -
Page 25: Install The Y Endstop
3.2 Install the Y Endstop 1. Orient the carriage plate #27 top-side up: With the large notch – the front of the plate – facing you, the larger two larger holes should be on the right-hand side of the part (A). -
Page 26: Spacers, Shims, And Washers
3.3 Spacers, shims, and washers There are several types of round spacers in the X-Carriage. Since they are similar in appearance, let’s take a closer look. All four of these parts are made of stainless steel, with a 4 mm clearance hole in the center. -
Page 27: Carriage Idler Pulleys
3.4 X Carriage Idler Pulleys 1. Identify part #34, the 8 small flanged ball bearings. 2. Assemble these bearings into four stacks of two, lined up with the flanges facing away from each other – like tiny metal sandwiches. Slip one of the M4×12 Low Profile Cap Screws #29 through each pair (A). -
Page 28: Y-Wheel Supports
3.5 Y-Wheel Supports 1. Identify parts #35, and #36, threaded hexagonal standoffs, each 12 mm long. The straight hexagonal prisms are #35, the 8 mm hex standoffs. Parts #36 are the SemiHex standoffs, with a 10 mm hex section on the lower half only. 2. - Page 29 §3.5 Y-Wheel supports, continued 5. Using the 2.5 mm hex L-wrench #4 and the 8 mm low-profile wrench #6, firmly tighten the two hex standoffs into place (C). Tip: In cases like this – more are coming – it is usually easiest hold the hex standoff (or hex nut) steady with the open-ended wrench, while you turn the screw with the hex L-wrench.
- Page 30 §3.5 Y-Wheel supports, continued 8. Slip another M4×10 button socket cap screw through the hole in each eccentric spacer (F). 9. Thread a SemiHex spacer onto each of the protruding screws, with the wide hexagonal surface in contact with the carriage plate. Tighten both SemiHex spacers se- curely in place (G) with the 2.5 mm hex L wrench and the 10 mm low-profile wrench, #5.
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Page 31: Preset Y Eccentrics
3.6 Preset Y Eccentrics The eccentric spacers can be rotated to move the screw position closer or further from the a given point. The two that have been added thus far will be used to adjust the Y carriage in a later step. Rotate the two eccentric spacers, using the 8 mm low-pro- file wrench #6, such that the screw heads are as far as pos- sible from the centerline of the carriage plate. -
Page 32: Front X Wheels
3.7 Front X Wheels 1. Identify parts #39, #40, and #41, the M4×22 button socket cap screws, roller wheels, and M4 locknuts. The screws are the longest in the kit, 22 mm long. The M4 Locknuts have a hexagonal outline and rounded tops. 2. - Page 33 §3.7 Front X Wheels, continued 5. Tighten both wheels securely in place using the 2.5 mm hex L-wrench and #7, the 7 mm low-profile wrench to steady the locknut (C). Do not overtighten the wheels. The wheels should be secure in place but the outer clear plastic part of the wheel must be able to turn freely.
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Page 34: Rear X Wheels
That is, the front side – with the notch and two wheels – should face towards you #37, Eccentric Spacer when the EBB support (with its AxiDraw MiniKit logo) is on the left (A). #31, Shim, M4×8×1 2. - Page 35 §3.8 Rear X Wheels, continued 5. Now, tighten both wheels – only until barely tight – using the 2.5 mm hex L-wrench and #7, the 7 mm low-profile wrench to steady the locknut (D). Final tightening will come in a subsequent step. Tip: Once again, you will need to hold the nut against the carriage plate as you turn the hex wrench.
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Page 36: Tuning The X Carriage
3.9 Tuning the X Carriage In this step we will adjust the position of the two rear wheels using the eccentric spacers located above them. The goal will be to tune the tension between the wheels and the base rail, so that the carriage moves smoothly and without slack. - Page 37 §3.9 Tuning the X Carriage, continued 4. If you can feel any slack movement in Pair 1 alone, make a small adjustment to the eccentric position (C), and test again. Repeat until there is no slack movement in line with these two wheels.
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Page 38: Part 4: Y, Belt, And Z
Part 4: Y, Belt, and Z... -
Page 39: Parts In The Y, Belt, And Z Assemblies
4.1 Parts in the Y, Belt, and Z assemblies #42, MiniKit Y Rail (1) #46, M4×12 Torx tapping screw (2) #50, M3×8 Button-head Screw (1) #43, Tensioning block (1) #47, Timing belt (1) #51, Z Slide assembly (1) #44, F624 Ball Bearing (2) #48, Belt spacer (1) #52, Servo mount (1) #45, M4×8×8 Hex Standoff (2) -
Page 40: Tensioning Block
4.2 Tensioning block The Y Rail may have extremely sharp points and edges. Handle with appropriate care. 1. Begin with the MiniKit Y rail #42. For this step, orient it as shown (A), with the further-apart set of holes (visible on the ends) facing up. -
Page 41: Y Carriage Idler Pulley
4.3 Y Carriage Idler Pulley 1. Identify part #44, the 2 large flanged ball bearings. #31, Shim, M4×8×1 2. Slip the remaining #39 M4×22 button socket cap screw through the two ball bearings, with the flanges facing away #44, Flanged bearings from each other –... -
Page 42: Y Carriage Travel Limits
4.4 Y Carriage Travel Limits 1. Identify part #45, threaded hex standoffs, 8 mm across and 8 mm tall. 2. Slip the remaining #13 M4×16 button socket cap screws through the two empty holes in the Y rail, from the top (empty) side through to the bottom side, which has the tensioning block and bearings (B). -
Page 43: Y Endcap And Pre-Threading
4.5 Y Endcap and pre-threading 1. Following the same procedure as in §2.6 “Base Endcap” on page 18, install the second Rail Endcap #16 on the “back” end of the rail, which is the end by the tension- ing block (A). You will need the remaining two M4×8 Torx Tapping Screws, #17 and the Torx L-wrench, #2. -
Page 44: Fixed Y Wheels
4.6 Fixed Y Wheels Next, attach roller wheels #40 to the top of the two tall and straight hex standoffs #35 on the left side of the X Carriage. These are the fixed (not adjustable) wheels for the Y axis. Use two of the M4×12 Low Profile Cap Screws #29, and tighten them securely in place with the short side of the 2 mm ball-end hex L-wrench #3. -
Page 45: Aside: Axidraw Kinematics
4.7 Aside: AxiDraw kinematics In the next step we will begin adding the timing belt to the kit. It is helpful to understand how the belt is arranged – and thus how the machine works – before doing so. The AxiDraw is driven by two stepper motors, each rigidly fixed to the base of the machine. Each motor drives a timing belt pulley that is attached directly to the motor shaft. -
Page 46: Belt Staging
4.8 Belt Staging 1. Set the timing belt roughly in place. Position its loose ends to come out the back of the carriage and a loose loop out the front side of the car- riage (A). 2. Loop the belt over both timing belt pulleys, and make sure that the teeth on the belt are “point- ing in”... - Page 47 §4.8 Belt Staging, continued 4. Once the belt seems to be in the right place, test its placement by pulling the loose ends (pinched together) straight back while pulling the front loop straight forward (D). 5. While holding the belt in tension, make sure that it is flat rather than twisted, engaged in the teeth of both motors, engaged between the flanges the four idler pulleys, and not looped around anything that it isn’t supposed to be.
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Page 48: Add The Y Carriage
4.9 Add the Y Carriage 1. Set the Y carriage in place atop the X carriage, with its idler pulley pointing down and towards the front of the X carriage – the side with the belt loop not the loose belt ends. 2. -
Page 49: Belt Tensioning
4.10 Belt tensioning 1. Loop the belt over the Y carriage idler pulley. 2. Holding both X and Y carriages to prevent them from sliding, turn the full assembly upside down (A). Tip: It may be helpful to rest the assembly on a large cup or bowl while inverted. - Page 50 §4.10 Belt tensioning, continued 4. Loop one end of the belt around the rounded post near the end of the tensioning block, and fold it back up so that the belt teeth engage with each other (B). 5. Holding the belt steady by the engaged teeth, pull the loose end to establish a little tension and ensure that the belt is still looped around the motors and pulleys.
- Page 51 §4.10 Belt tensioning, continued 7. Insert the belt spacer, with its recessed side pointing up, into the gap in the middle of the tensioning block (D). Its function is to pinch the two looped ends of the belt, and thus anchor the belt. Tip: Use your 2 mm L-wrench to help pull the belt out of the way while you add the spacer.
- Page 52 §4.10 Belt tensioning, continued 10. Using the 2.5 mm hex wrench, slightly loosen the two silver-colored M4 screws in the tensioning block. Pull it straight back – tight – towards the end of the carriage to tension the belt, and then tighten the two screws to lock it in place (F).
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Page 53: Trim The Belt Ends
4.11 Trim the belt ends Once the belt is tensioned and you have double-checked that it is properly routed, you can trim the belt to length. The loose ends of the belt must not cross the “red line” shown here, which is the inner face of the hex standoff by the tensioner on the bottom of the Y carriage. -
Page 54: Tuning The Y Carriage
4.12 Tuning the Y Carriage In this step we will adjust the position of the two right-hand Y-axis wheels using the eccentric spacers located below them. This is much like the previous tuning step, §3.9 “Tuning the X Carriage” on page 36. 1. - Page 55 §4.12 Tuning the Y carriage, continued 2. If you can feel any slack movement in Pair 1 alone, make a small adjustment to the position of the eccentric spacer beneath the SemiHex standoff (B). Repeat un- til there is no slack movement in line with these two wheels.
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Page 56: Adding The Z Slide
4.13 Adding the Z Slide 1. Identify the servo mount, #52, and test fit it over the front end of the Y carriage (A). The two holes should line up with the lower two holes, which you tapped earlier. It extends above the Y carriage, and folds back over it slightly. - Page 57 §4.13 Adding the Z Slide, continued 4. Engage the screw into the tapped hole in the end of the Y carriage, and bring it to almost tight (E). 5. Align the Z slide mounting bracket and servo mount such that the path is clear for the second screw (F). 6.
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Page 58: Part 5: Servo And Wiring
Part 5: Servo and wiring... -
Page 59: Parts Used In Wiring
5.1 Parts used in wiring #53, Motor wire harness, short (1) #58, Cable ties (8) #54, Micro servo motor (1) #59, No. 2 sheet metal screws (2) #55, Servo extension cable (1) #60, Short nylon spacer (1) #56, Spiral wrap tubing (1) #61, No. -
Page 60: Stepper Wiring 1
5.2 Stepper wiring 1 1. Your EBB and wiring should currently look as shown (A), with the wires from the right-hand motor tucked through the large slot in the EBB support, following §2.7 EBB Support on page 19. 2. One by one, insert the four wire ends into the terminal block and tighten them firmly with your small flat-head wrench. -
Page 61: Stepper Wiring 2
5.3 Stepper wiring 2 1. Attach the short motor wiring harness #53 to the left- hand stepper motor, with its loose end guided through the gap by the motor above the long motor wiring har- ness (A). 2. Guide the wires over through the vertical slot, above the other wiring harness (B). -
Page 62: Cable Guide Wrapping
5.4 Cable guide wrapping The support wire is made from spring-temper stainless steel. It is very springy and may have sharp ends that can spring at you. Handle with appropriate care. 1. Get out the micro servo motor #54. Keep and set aside the accessories that are packaged with it. - Page 63 §5.4 Cable guide wrapping, continued 4. When you reach the end of the servo cable (E), connect the ser- vo extension cable #55 to its end (F). Orientation matters: The brown (darkest) wire on the servo cable connects to the black wire on the extension cable.
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Page 64: Mounting The Servo
5.5 Mounting the servo 1. Test fit the servo motor. It will sit behind the servo mount, with the cable oriented towards the highest part of the ser- vo mount (A). 2. Identify the two small sheet metal screws, #59. These screws are small and black, with a Phillips head and a length of about 6 mm under the head. -
Page 65: Mount The Cable Guide
5.6 Mount the cable guide 1. Slip the narrow end of a cable tie #58, through the loop at the end of the support wire and then forward through the lowest rectangular hole in the servo mount (A). Then, loop the narrow end through its square locking piece to close it (B). - Page 66 §5.6 Mount the cable guide, continued 3. Cut off the excess length of the cable tie, with scissors or wire clippers (D). 4. Add a second cable tie, looping around the wrapped ca- ble, forward through the uppermost rectangular hole in the servo mount (E).
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Page 67: Complete The Wiring
5.7 Complete the wiring 1. Use a cable tie to attach the left-hand (short) motor wire harness to the middle horizontal “beam” of the EBB support (A). 2. Cinch the cable tie tight and cut off the excess length (B). 3. - Page 68 §5.7 Complete the wiring, continued 4. Loop a cable tie into the bottom of the vertical slot in the EBB support, and out of the lowest horizontal slot (D). 5. Slip the end of that cable tie through the loop at the end of the support wire (E).
- Page 69 §5.7 Complete the wiring, continued 7. Pull the end – only the end – of the servo extension ca- ble out through the vertical slot in the EBB support (G). 8. Plug in the servo extension cable to the bottom three horizontal pins below the terminal block on the EBB driver board.
- Page 70 §5.7 Complete the wiring, continued 10. Loop a cable tie into the top of vertical slot in the EBB support, out of the highest horizontal slot, and around the wrapped cable and support (J). 11. Cinch that cable tie very tight, to support the cable guide vertically (K).
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Page 71: Servo Horn
5.8 Servo horn 1. The micro servo motor #54 has several small accessories packed with it (A). Of these, we need the single-ended white plastic “horn” #54a in this step and the single short screw, #54b, in the next. 2. Also identify short nylon spacer #60 and Phillips truss-head screw #61. -
Page 72: Servo Calibration
Please visit: axidraw.com/sw for installation instructions. 1. Connect the AxiDraw MiniKit to power, using the included AC adapter and to your computer via USB (A). 2. On your computer, open Inkscape, and select from the menu: Extensions > AxiDraw Control... - Page 73 §5.9 Servo calibration, continued Pen raising motion Pen lowering motion 5. Place a finger tip on the output shaft of the servo mo- Max pen-up position tor – the little white cylindrical protrusion – so that you can feel when it moves. 6.
- Page 74 §5.9 Servo calibration, continued 9. Check that the Z slide moves freely up and down when moved by hand (E). It may need a little manual “jogging” to loosen up. (If you cannot get it to slide freely, please con- tact technical support for assistance.) 10.
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Page 75: Part 6: Using Axidraw Minikit
Part 6: Using AxiDraw MiniKit... -
Page 76: Accessories
6.1 Accessories AxiDraw MiniKit comes with certain accessories: The power supply, USB cable, and ruler that you’ve used by this point, plus the pen clip, screws for mounting the pen clip, the ea- sel, and binder clips. The pen clip is attached to the Z slide of the AxiDraw by the two little screws, and there is a thumbscrew for holding the pen in place. -
Page 77: The Axidraw User Guide
6.3.1 Pause button The pause button on AxiDraw MiniKit is located directly on the EBB driver board, and is labeled “PRG”. It is in the same physical location as on other models (left side of the ma- chine, behind the USB connector), but does not have the separate cover and button. -
Page 78: Travel Limits
6.3.3 Travel limits The XY travel limits of the AxiDraw MiniKit are 160.0 × 101.6 mm (6.30 × 4.00 inches). 6.3.4 Pen weight The maximum pen weight for the AxiDraw MiniKit is 25 g. It is recommended to use lighter-yet pens when possible. - Page 79 Extended online documentation & resources for AxiDraw: axidraw.com/docs Blog: www.evilmadscientist.com Store: shop.evilmadscientist.com Docs: wiki.evilmadscientist.com Forum: www.evilmadscientist.com/forums Humans: shop.evilmadscientist.com/contact...
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