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Wunder-Bar JoeTap NITCOM Repair Manual

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JT-TFN20M07-110
JoeTap NITCOM Repair
Manual-110V
JoeTap NITCOM Repair Manual -110V
Rev C
Page | 1

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  • Page 1 JT-TFN20M07-110 JoeTap NITCOM Repair Manual-110V JoeTap NITCOM Repair Manual -110V Rev C Page | 1...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    APPENDIX Appendix A: Oetiker Clamp Application Page: 54 Appendix B: John Guest Troque Settings Page: 54 Appendix C: JoeTap NITCOM Wiring diagram Page: 55 Appendix D: John Guest Speed Fit Guide Page: 56 Appendix E: Software Update Instructions Page: 57...

  • Page 3: Symptom 1: Screen Blackout Page

    See Figure 2a. If the Display Power Supply Harness is under a lot of tension, cut the cable tie and remove the tension. The P-Clamp, seen in Figure 2b, at the exit (bottom of door) might need to be loosened accommodate this. Refer to Appendix C: JoeTap NITCOM Wiring Diagram for full wiring diagram.
  • Page 4 Loosen P-Clamp if necessary USB Cable Display Ethernet Power Supply Cable Harness Cable Figure 2a: Screen Wiring shown. Figure 2b: P-Clamp Location. ii. If the Screen does not turn on with the Display Power Supply Harness plugged in, verify that there is 24VDC by unplugging the harness and probing the green power connector with a DVOM.
  • Page 5 2. If the Display Power Supply Harness is connected and undamaged, verify if the PCB is also not receiving power (LED lights on the PCB will be lit if it is working): a. If PCB is NOT receiving power, verify the rest of the connections to the Power Supply seen in Figure 4. The Brown Wire from the High Voltage Power Supply should be connected to L socket on the Power Supply.

  • Page 6: Symptom 2: Unit Stuck In Cleaning Cycle Page

    Foam Channel under the Rear Enclosure. See Figure 6. You may have to remove the Black Power Plug to fully inspect the harness. Refer to Appendix C: JoeTap NITCOM Wiring Diagram for full wiring diagram. Replace the High Voltage Power Supply if damaged.
  • Page 7 BLUE and BLUE and ORANGE ORANGE Flowmeter Flowmeter Harness into Harness into Flowmeter Flowmeter Flowmeter Flowmeter Harness Harness into PCB into PCB BROWN and BROWN and ORANGE ORANGE Figure 7b: Flowmeter Harness Shown-New Configuration. Figure 7a: Flowmeter Harness Shown-Old Configuration. 4.

  • Page 8: Symptom 3: Invalid Voltage Page

    Symptom 3: Invalid Voltage: Figure 9: Invalid Voltage Screen. 1. If Invalid Voltage is accompanied with Communication Down check that the Ethernet Cable is plugged in. See Symptom 4: Communication Down for more details. 2. Verify if the correct voltage is read: a.
  • Page 9 Potentiometer Figure 14: Potentiometer Location shown. 3. If the voltage does not change by use of the potentiometer on the power supply, use a DVOM to check the voltage output at the Power Supply (-V and +V) to verify it is at 24VDC. See Figure 15. Follow the harness to the board and verify that the PCB is also getting 24VDC.

  • Page 10: Symptom 4: Communication Down Page

    Symptom 4: Communication Down: Figure 16: Communication Down Screen. 1. Open the door and remove the screen cover and foam to verify that the Ethernet cable, USB cable and Power Supply cable are all plugged in. Plug in a loose connection See Figure 17. USB Cable Display Ethernet...

  • Page 11: Symptom 5: No Product Flow Page

    4. Verify the Ethernet cable is not damaged. Bypassing the installed ethernet cable with a known/functioning ethernet cable would be easiest way to check. Replace the Ethernet Cable if this resolves the problem. 5. If Ethernet Cable is undamaged and issue persists, update the software. Refer to Appendix E: Software Update Instructions.

  • Page 12: Symptom 6: Low Pressure Warning Page

    a. If the solenoid is stuck close due to mechanical failure, the solenoid will be cold. Replace the Flowmeter/Solenoid Module. Refer to Appendix G: Flowmeter Solenoid Module Replacement for procedure. b. If the solenoid is stuck close due to electrical failure the solenoid will be hot. You can verify this further by probing the solenoid quick connects with a DVOM to see if it is getting power: i.
  • Page 13 ii. Connect a keg with water to the system and run water through the lines by opening both faucets and letting the water run. iii. Remove the faucet nozzle and clean the restrictor plate. See figure 23. Remove the O-Ring with an O- Ring Pick, Clean the restrictor Plate and reassemble.

  • Page 14: Symptom 7: Lockout Page

    Symptom 7: Lockout: 1. Run weekly cleaning cycle. If cleaning cycle fails to complete go to Symptom 2: Unit Stuck in Cleaning Cycle. 2. If issue persists, update the software and run another weekly cycle. Refer to Appendix E: Software Update Instructions.
  • Page 15 Regulator Knobs Figure 26c: Pressure Regulator Knobs on the Figure 26a: Home Screen with Machine Figure 26b: Pressure Readings on INFO Rear Enclosure. Info Circled. Screen shown. 2. If the Post Filter range is inside the nominal range, and Foam level is too HIGH then clean the filter screen and run cleaning cycle to clean possible blockages slowing down the flow rate.
  • Page 16 5. If foam level is too LOW, verify that the nitrogen line solenoid is not stuck shut by removing the rear enclosure cover: a. Verify that the Nitrogen supply line is active. b. Disconnect the keg. c. Select MACHINE INFO. See Figure 29a. d.

  • Page 17: Symptom 9: Liquid Leaks Inside Refrigerated Space/Rear Enclosure Page

    Tower Tubing Assembly. Change out the Tower Tubing Assembly. See Appendix H: Disassembling the Tower for instructions on how to replace the Tower Tubing Assembly. Symptom 9: Liquid Leaks Inside Refrigerated Space/Rear Enclosure 1. If leak is from a barbed joint: a.
  • Page 18 Leak from this Connection Figure 33: Locknut on Faucet shown. a. Remove the Faucet to verify that the Faucet has a O-Ring in it. If no O-Ring is present, then install a new O- Ring or a new Faucet depending on availability. See Figure 34. Ensure O- Ring is Present...

  • Page 19: Replacing The Faucet Diaphragm Page

    2. Replacing the Faucet Diaphragm: a. If the faucet is leaking right below the Faucet Handle near the Black Spacer, there is a torn diaphragm inside the Faucet. b. Identify that the leak is coming from the Black Spacer. See Figure 36. Replace faucet diaphragm if leak is coming from...
  • Page 20 f. Identify and remove the Diaphragm using a flat head screwdriver or a pick. See Figure 39. Black Plastic Collar Faucet Diaphragm removed Figure 39: Faucet Diaphragm shown. g. Replace the Diaphragm with a new diaphragm. Ensure that the Black Plastic Collar inside the Faucet does not get lost.
  • Page 21 Check Black Elbow Valve Fitting Stainless Faucet Steel Elbow Shank BSPP x Push to FIT Adaptor 2-Way Fittings Divider This Way Up Figure 41: Tower Parts Identification. a. Stainless Steel Elbow Shanks: The Elbow Shank can leak from two locations, tube connected with Oetiker Clamps or the welded joints: i.
  • Page 22 i. If leak is coming from the push to fit connection, push the tube in further to engage the O-Ring inside the fitting. See Figure 43. If necessary, disassemble the tower to get better access. If this does not resolve the issue, replace the Nitro Tower Tubing Assembly. Refer to Appendix I: Disassembling The Tower to see how to disassemble and reassemble the Tower.

  • Page 23: Replacing The Check Valve Page

    4. Replacing the Check Valve: If access is limited Refer to Appendix I: Disassembling The Tower to see how to disassemble and reassemble the Tower. a. Remove the Locking Clip from the Check Valve. See Figure 45a. b. Remove the Check Valve by pulling on the collet on the Check Valve. See Appendix D: John Guest Speed Fit Guide for reference.
  • Page 24 3. First check if leak is inside the Refrigerated space: a. Verify if it is the Gray Gas Disconnect fitting that is not the cause by spraying it with soap solution and looking for bubbles. See Figure 47. b. Also check both barb connections at the Gray Gas Disconnect Fitting, at the Stem Barb connection at the rear top area of the Fridge, and the push to connect bulkhead by spraying it with soap solution and looking for bubbles.
  • Page 25 ii. If leak is suspected from Solenoid (Nitrogen Line), apply Soap Water Solution to the Solenoid in locations circled in Figure 49. Open both regulators fully and inspect for bubble formation to detect leak. If leak is coming from push to fit locations, first attempt to push the tubes further into the joint; if pushing the tubing in further is unsuccessful in stopping the leak, replace the Solenoid.
  • Page 26 Figure 51a: Pressure Regulator Leak test location on the outside of the Rear Enclosure. Figure 51b: Pressure Regulator Leak test location on the inside of the Rear Enclosure. vi. Check under the Tower at the Check Valve. Apply Soap Solution where the White LLDPE Tubing is inserted into the Check Valve.

  • Page 27: Symptom 12: Temperature Reading Out Of Acceptable Range Page

    JoeTap NITCOM Refrigeration System Troubleshooting Symptom 12: Incorrect Temperature Reading Out of Acceptable Range: 1. Verify overall Fridge condition/usage: a. Verify condition of door gasket for proper fit and seal. b. Verify the Fridge is not overcrowded with other products preventing air circulation and creating hot/cold spots.
  • Page 28 Figure 56: Fridge Display showing Current Temp abbreviation. b. Press the “ ” key once, it will display the Current Temperature the unit is running at. Verify that the temperature is displayed. If the temperature is not displayed, there is an issue with the fridge thermistor. In this case the display will show E1.

  • Page 29: Run Built-In Self-Test Page

    f. Press the “ ’’ key once again, it will quit, and your settings will be saved. g. If all the values were correct to begin with see Fridge Setting Calibration to calculate custom Fridge Settings. 5. Verify that the Evaporator Fan is Installed Correctly: a.
  • Page 30 v. Press the “ ’’ key once again, it will display the “HF” (means set Offset Temperature). Press the “ ’’ key once again, it will display the Offset Temperature (range -20℉~20℉). Press the “+” and “-” key to adjust Offset Temperature to 00.

  • Page 31: Verify Inverter Is Working/Replace Inverter Page

    e. Press the “ ’’ key once, it will display “dF” (means defrosting). Press the “ ” key once again, it will display “00-99” minutes of the Defrost Duration. Use the “+” key to increase the time or reduce the time by pressing the “-”...
  • Page 32 • Then it will check the EEPROM, if there is a fault “EP” will be displayed. This would indicate there is a fault with the Fridge Main Controller Board, replace the Fridge Main Controller Board. See Appendix K: Fridge Controller Board Replacement Procedure for directions. •...
  • Page 33 Figure 69: Screw shown. • Push tab to remove inverter cover. See Figure 70. Figure 70: Tab shown. ix. Remove Philips screw with tool from wire strain relief block. See Figure 71. Figure 71: Screw shown. Page | 33...
  • Page 34 x. Remove power connections to compressor and test: • Remove Line (Black) and neutral (white) insulated terminals from inverter with needle nosed pliers. See Figure 72a and 72b. Figure 72a: Power connections being removed. Figure 72b: Power connections shown removed. •...
  • Page 35 • Check voltage against chassis (Ensure the blue dot is on the display, meaning a signal is sent). The signal should read 120V on the DVOM. See Figure 75. If no voltage, issue with main board, replace the board. Figure 75: Voltage being probed. xi.
  • Page 36 Figure 78a: Ground wire being removed. Figure 78: Ground Wire shown removed. • With a rocking motion remove the compressor connection and the compressor ground. See Figure 79a and 79b. Figure 79a: Compressor connections shown. Figure 79b: Compressor connections removed. xii.

  • Page 37: Verify Correct Refrigerant Charge Page

    Figure 81c: Inverter post 3 probed. Figure 81a: Inverter post 1 probed. Figure 81b: Inverter post 2 probed. xiii. Once it is verified that the new inverter is functioning as intended, install it onto the Compressor in reverse order of removing it. 9.
  • Page 38 Remove Spade Connector and wrap in electrical tape Figure 83: Live Terminal Location ii. Remove two screws from the fridge power plug to check the connections to the plug as seen in Figure 84. Figure 84: Main Power Plug. iii. Plug the Fridge back in. Start the next step within 10 minutes of plugging the unit back in. iv.

  • Page 39: Symptom 13: Fridge Light Off Page

    v. Press the “ ” icon to display current temp. vi. Press the “+” icon to turn on the Compressor and fans (note that when the board is sending a signal to the compressor, there is a dot on the 7 segment LED that illuminates, almost like a decimal dot after the 2nd character.
  • Page 40 If Touch Screen is ON and light/fan are both off, remove two screws from the fridge power plug and pull it out to check the connections to the plug. The Bottom Rear Panel might need to be removed to access the Power Supply Harness. Refer to Appendix C: JoeTap NITCOM Wiring Diagram for full wiring diagram. See Figure 89.
  • Page 41 Figure 89: Main Power Plug. c. If Fan is ON and Light is OFF and Display is OFF, the fridge is in Sabbath Mode. Push and hold the light key for 5 seconds. The ℉/ºC symbol will flash briefly after 5 seconds and the display and interior light will turn d.

  • Page 42: Symptom 14: Fridge Door Coming Off Page

    Disconnect Here Figure 91: LED Light Strip harness connector shown. iv. Replace the LED Light Strip by connecting it into the Harness and placing it into the Light Cover. v. Align the Light Cover in its original position and apply pressure until it clips back into place. Symptom 12: Fridge Door Coming Off: 1.
  • Page 43 Figure 93: Removing Overlay. b. Peel overlay off. e. Remove 2 screws and pull out the Black Plastic Bracket holding the LED UI Display/Board. See Figure 94. Figure 94: Screws Removed. f. Remove LED UI Display/Board from control housing (held in place by 5 tabs) and disconnect harness. See Figure 95.
  • Page 44 Figure 96a: White Sticker on Black Plastic Bracket. Figure 96b: Replace Screws. Peel the sticker off the New Overlay and install the New Overlay. Do not reuse the Old Overlay. Make sure to align the 7-segment LED. The light symbol should be on the right side. See Figure 97. Light on Right Side Align 7-Segment LED Figure 97: Overlay Replaced.
  • Page 45 Figure 99: UI Board retaining screws removed. iii. Disconnect the existing UI Harness from the UI Board. Place the UI Board in secure place for reuse if it is in good shape, replace UI Board if damaged. See Figure 100. Disconnect UI Harness Figure 100: UI Board to UI Harness connection.
  • Page 46 1 inch Mark 7.5inch Mark Figure 102a: 7.5” mark/center of the Fridge. Figure 102b: 1” mark from front face. iii. Cover the vent holes in the Front Grill with paper/cardboard/plastic and/or tape to prevent debris entering through the vent holes on the Front Grill. See Figure 103a. iv.
  • Page 47 Tape Grommet Figure 104b: UI Harness connector covered with tape. Figure 104a: UI Harness inserted into the Grommet. iii. Insert the Connector on the UI Harness through the bottom side of the Access Hole drilled in previous step. See Figure 105a. iv.
  • Page 48 UI Harness Routed Figure 107: UI Harness routing shown. iii. Seal the Access Hole from inside the UI Housing with RTV. See Figure 108. RTV to seal Access Hole Figure 108: RTV Silicone applied to seal refrigerated space. iv. Place LED UI Display/Board into the new Black Plastic Bracket. v.
  • Page 49 Light on Right Side Align 7-Segment LED Figure 110: Overlay Replaced. g. Route the UI Harness through the Fridge: i. Remove the Front Grill by unscrewing the two screws holding it in place. See Figure 111. Screws Figure 111: Front Grill installed with screws. ii.
  • Page 50 Right-Side Cavity Route through Topmost Middle Vent Figure 113a: UI Harness routed through Front Grill. Figure 113b: UI Harness routed through Right-Side Cavity. v. Fish the wire through the Fridge Cavity and pull the Connector on the UI Harness through the Rear of the Fridge.
  • Page 51 ii. Place the mounting surface of the P-Clamp flat onto the mounting surface of Fridge between the Grommet and the Front Grill and mark the location of the Mounting Hole. See Figure 116a. Mark Hole Location P-Clamp Figure 116a: P-Clamp around UI Harness. Figure 116b: P-Clamp mounting hole marked.
  • Page 52 ii. Open the wire bundle by cutting the Cable Tie holding it together. See Figure 119. Cut Cable Tie Figure 119: Cable Tie being cut. iii. Disconnect the existing UI Harness once identified. The existing UI Harness should be identical to the replacement UI Harness.
  • Page 53 Cut off old UI Harness Figure 122: UI Harness connected to J3 Connector. iv. Roll the replacement UI Harness in a bundle with all the other loose wires and secure it in a bundle with the Cable Tie supplied. See Figure 123. Form new cable bundle Figure 123: Wire Bundle formed.

  • Page 54: Appendix

    APPENDIX Appendix A: Oetiker Clamp Application Make sure the Hose Clamp is crimped between 1/8-inch to ¼-inch away from the tip of the tube as seen in Figure A1 and the clamp ears are closed as seen in Figure A2. Place Hose Clamp 1/8”- 1/4”...

  • Page 55: Appendix C: Joetap Nitcom Wiring Diagram Page

    Page | 55...

  • Page 56: Appendix D: John Guest Speed Fit Guide Page

    Appendix D: John Guest Speed Fit Guide Page | 56...

  • Page 57: Appendix E: Software Update Instructions Page

    Appendix E: Software Update 1. Insert USB thumb drive containing release software/firmware into USB Port located on the left side Rear Enclosure as seen from the Rear of the Unit. The USB Port will be located directly under the vent holes on the Rear Enclosure Cover Panel in newer models.
  • Page 58 Figure E8: Software Update Screen with Update Figure E7: Settings Screen with Software Update Controller Circled. Circled. 11. Controller update takes about one minute to complete. 12. Verify “Controller Updated” with Green LED next to it appears after completion. See Figure E9. 13.

  • Page 59: Appendix F: Flowmeter/Solenoid Module Replacement Page

    18. Select BACK. 19. Wait until READY indicator appears at top of screen. See Figure E12. 20. Select SETTINGS. See Figure E12. 21. Enter passcode 2186 and select enter. Figure E12: Home Screen with Settings Circled. 22. Select SOFTWARE UPDATES. See Figure E13. 23.
  • Page 60 2. Remove all four locking clips holding the Flowmeter/Solenoid Module on the bottom end of the Solenoid Flowmeter Module and remove the 3/8” tube from it. See Figure F2. Disconnect Here Disconnect Here Figure F2: Connection Shown. 3. Disconnect all harness connection and remove the Solenoid Flowmeter Module, Bracket, and Solenoid from the Rear Enclosure.

  • Page 61: Appendix G: Nitrogen Line Solenoid Replacement Page

    Appendix G: Nitrogen Line Solenoid Replacement 1. Remove the two screws (8-32) holding the flowmeter-solenoid bracket in place. See Figure G1. Solenoid and Flowmeter Bracket #8-32 Screws and #8 Washers Figure G1: Flowmeter-Solenoid bracket held with two #8-32 Screws and two (2) #8 Washers. 2.
  • Page 62 Remove with T- 20 Screw Driver Figure G3: Screws Shown. 5. Remove the Solenoid from the bracket by removing the two screws and split washer holding it in place with a T20 Drive Screwdriver. See Figure G4. Remove with T-20 Screw Driver Figure G4: Screws Shown.

  • Page 63: Appendix H: Disassembling The Tower Page

    7. Replace the Solenoid Flowmeter Module if it is still functional or replace if necessary. Remember to reinstall the split washer removed when reinstalling the new Solenoid Flowmeter Module to prevent it from getting damaged. The Flowmeter Solenoid Module should be installed so that the Solenoid is on the LEFT with the Bracket Flange facing away from you.

  • Page 64: Removing/Uninstalling The Tower Page

    2. Removing/Uninstalling the Tower: 2.1. If leak is inside the tower, first disconnect the insulated tubing bundle: 2.1.1. Loosen the cord grips by twisting the Cord Grip Knobs counterclockwise. See Figure H2. 2.1.2. Remove the locking clips holding the connections made from the Insulated Bundle. See Figure H2. 2.1.3.

  • Page 65: Disassembling The Elbow Shanks Page

    Faucet Wrench Figure H4: Remove Faucet with a Faucet Wrench 3.2. Use a Flare Wrench to loosen the Elbow Shank Nuts. See Figure H5 and Figure H6. 1-inch Flare Wrench Figure H5: Flare wrench used to remove Elbow Shank Lock Figure H6: Both Elbow Shank Lock Nuts removed.
  • Page 66 Tower Body Curved Spacer Elbow Shank Nut Snap Ring Elbow Shank Collar Figure H7: Elbow Shank components pulled back to expose Figure H8: Elbow Shank Snap Ring shown. Snap Ring. 3.3.2. Pull the entire snap Ring out. Be careful not to stretch the snap ring during this procedure. Be careful not to stretch the snap ring during this procedure.

  • Page 67: Reassembling The Tower Page

    Figure H11: Tower Tubing Assembly outside Tower Body. 4. Reassemble the Tower: 4.1. Install Elbow Shanks and secure each two (2) with Hose Clamps: 4.1.1. Ensure all tubes are fully pushed into their respective push to fit fittings. The open end of the tubes will be within 0.25-inch of each other if the tubes are all pushed in fully.
  • Page 68 Curved Side of Black Plastic Washer facing open end of tubes Curved Side of Lock Nut facing open end of tubes Figure H14: Lock Nut and Black Plastic Washer inserted over both tubing. 4.1.4. Insert two (2) Hose Clamps over each tubing. See Figure H15. Two hose clamps per tube Figure H15: Hose Clamps over the both tubing.
  • Page 69 Figure H17: Hose Clamps on the Elbow Shank to secure Barrier Tubing in place. 4.2. Insert the sub assembly into the tower: 4.2.1. Check to verify all push to fit joints are secured with locking clips. There should be four (4) 3/8” Locking Clip and one (1) ¼”...
  • Page 70 Venturi on Right Hole Figure H19: Sub Assembly inserted inside Figure H20: Elbow Shank with the Venturi Figure H21: Elbow Shank without the Venturi attached Inserted into the Right hole. attached Inserted into the Left hole. tower. 4.3. Reassemble the Elbow Shanks: 4.3.1.
  • Page 71 Tower Body Elbow Shank Snap Ring in Collar over Snap SECOND GROOVE Ring Thick End of Collar away from tower Figure H26: Snap Ring in Second Groove Figure H25: Elbow Shank Collar inserted over Figure H27: Elbow Shank Collar over Elbow Shank.
  • Page 72 Lock Nut hand tightened Figure H30: Threaded end of the Elbow Shank inserted Figure H29: Elbow Shank secured in place with Lock Nut. through the Left Hole in the Tower. 4.4.3. Turn the Tower upside down to get the Black Plastic Washer and Lock Nut to the threaded portion of the Elbow Shank and hand tighten the Lock Nut onto the Elbow Shank.

  • Page 73: Reinstalling The Tower Page

    Figure H33: Connection Shown. Figure GH5: Install Faucet with Nozzle facing downwards. Tighten the nut. 5. Reinstalling the Tower: 5.1 Install two screws, opposite of each other and install nuts on the underside of the counter to secure the tower. See Figure H35. Install two screws opposite of each other Figure H35: Screw location shown.
  • Page 74 push down on the 2-Way Divider. You will feel it push past the O-Ring. The tubing must be seated past the O-ring within the 2-Way Divider. See Figure H37. 5.4 Install the Locking Clips on the Check Valve and the 2-Way Divider. See Figure H38. Connect here Figure H37: Tube length shown.

  • Page 75: Appendix I: Verify Pressure Transducer Functionality Page

    Appendix I: Verify Pressure Transducer Functionality Verify all pressure transducers are working and replace any pressure transducer that is not working and reset the pressure settings to the nominal settings. If the suspected Pressure Transducer corresponds to the Post-Filter Pressure, then first verify there is no clog in the Product/Coffee line.
  • Page 76 fittings. Cut cable tie holding the Pressure Transducer PCB in place on insulation pads if needed (remember to install the cable tie back in place when done so PCB is not on bare metal). 7. Swap the Pressure Transducers. 8. Turn on the Nitrogen Supply and let the system pressurize. Note the Pressure Reading with that noted in STEP 2.
  • Page 77 Figure I7: Machine Info Screen with Pre-Filter, Figure I6: Home Screen with Settings Circled. Post-Filter, and Nitrogen Pressure Circled. 7. Compare the pressure reading of the known pressure from the Nitrogen Supply to the pressure reading on the touch screen. If the difference is negligible, the pressure transducer is functional. 8.
  • Page 78 5. Connect the Pressure Transducer to a known pressure (Below 60PSI) and compare the pressure reading with the known pressure. The stem on the Black Push-to-connect fitting is 0.25” so you will need a gas supply with a 0.25” Female Push-to-connect output. Ensure you have a way to release the pressure such as a Tee-Fitting with one output connected to a valve and another to the Pressure Transducer.

  • Page 79: Appendix J: Fridge Functionality, Maintenance, And Troubleshooting Guide Page

    Appendix J: Fridge Functionality, Maintenance, and Troubleshooting Guide Page | 79...
  • Page 80 Page | 80...

  • Page 81: Refrigeration System Wiring Diagram Page

    Refrigeration System Wiring Diagram Page | 81...

  • Page 82: Appendix K: Fridge Controller Board Replacement Procedure Page

    Appendix K: Fridge Controller Board Replacement Procedure 1. Remove the front Access cover by unscrewing the two screws holding it on place. See Figure K1. Screws Figure K1: Front Grill installed with screws. 2. Pull out the black plastic enclosure on the right. It will be adhered to the floor of the undercabinet space so may require use of Flat Head Screwdriver to leverage it to detach.
  • Page 83 Screws Figure K3: Control Board Enclosure screws shown. 4. Remove the Controller board from the enclosure by removing the screws holding it in place. See Figure K4. 5. Unplug the connectors on the existing/old board and connect it onto the new/replacement board one at a time. See Figure K4.
  • Page 84 Harness Rubber Grommets Figure K5: Rubber Grommets in proper slots. Figure K6: Two halves of Control Board Enclosure aligned. 9. Screw the fasteners back in. See Figure K7. Apply fresh double-sided tape on the bottom of the Controller Board Enclosure and remove the old tape. See Figure K8. Fresh Double-Sided Tape Screws...

  • Page 85: Appendix L: Fridge Thermistor Replacement Procedure Page

    Appendix L: Fridge Thermistor Replacement Procedure 1. Remove the Regulator Cover. There is one (1) screw holding it in place. See Figure L1. Sheet Metal Screw Figure L1: Regulator Cover Shown. 2. Remove the Rear Enclosure Cover. There will be two (2) screws on either side holding it in place. See Figure L2. Sheet Metal Screw Figure L2: Rear Enclosure Cover secured in...
  • Page 86 5. Remove the Locking Clip in the Push to connect elbow fitting that is connected to the Flowmeter-Solenoid Module and located behind the Right Regulator at the connection with the Tubing coming out of the Fridge. See Figure L4. Remove Locking Clips Figure L4: Controller Board Enclosure placed back in its original location.
  • Page 87 Remove Four screws Figure L7: Inside Screws on the Rear Enclosure. 8. Hold the Rear Enclosure with one hand and pull on the collet of the Push to connect straight fitting threaded into the back of the Left Regulator. Use a 3/8” Open Ended Wrench if fingers hard to reach with fingers Once the push to connect fitting on the Left Regulator is disconnected, the Rear Enclosure will pull right off.
  • Page 88 10. Locate the penetration point on the rear wall and remove the malleable putty sealing that hole. This putty will be used again upon installation so do not discard it. 11. Locate and disconnect the Thermistor connector from the harness so the Thermistor may now be pulled out. Follow along the White cable of the Thermistor, cutting any cable tie holding it in place along the way.
  • Page 89 14. Pull the Thermistor until the entire length of the wire attached to it is removed. See Figure L15. Thermistor Figure L15: Thermistor inside the Thermistor Cover. 15. Insert the new Thermistor through the existing hole. Go around inside the Fridge and pull out enough length so it can be reinstalled in its original position.
  • Page 90 Thermistor Cover inside Slot Insert Figure L18: Thermistor inserted inside Thermistor Cover. Figure L19: Insert Pin to secure. 19. Connect the new Thermistor onto the existing harness and use cable tie to tie it together. See Figure L20. 20. Apply the putty removed to seal the penetration hole. If Putty is lost, use RTV Silicone. See Figure L21. 21.
  • Page 91 Form new cable bundle Figure L22: Wire Bundle formed. 23. Install the Left Pressure Regulator and the Rear Enclosure: a) Inspect the barrier hoses protruding from the rear wall. Discard the Blue Barrier Hose and replace the Barrier Hose with a new/unused hose if it is scratched or otherwise damaged that may cause leaks. See Figure L23. b) Align the two (2) Gray Sealing Grommet (JT-12722) installed in the top two holes of the Rear Enclosure with the two Blue Barrier Hoses installed in the rear bulkhead as per WI-1514-001.
  • Page 92 Left Pressure Regulator Blue Barrier Locking Hose Clip Figure L25: Left Tube inserted into the Left Regulator with Locking Clip Installed. 24. Turn the Solenoid Sub Assembly so that the Elbow attached to the subassembly is aligned with the Barrier Tubing protruding from the Sealing Gray Grommet on the right and push the Elbow firmly to insert the tube into the Elbow and install Locking Clip.
  • Page 93 Figure L27: Secure Rear Enclosure to Fridge with Top Left Figure L28: Secure Rear Enclosure to Fridge Screw outside. with all four Screws inside. 26. Ensure that all wires are routed through the cutout in the foam behind the Rear Enclosure, so it is not clamped between the Rear Enclosure and the NITCOM Refrigerator.
  • Page 94 Rear Bottom Panel Lower Lip of Fridge Figure L30: Bottom Back Panel under the Lower Lip of the Fridge. 28. Secure the Rear Bottom Panel in place using five (5) Self-Tapping #10-16 Screws into the slots. Use screwdriver with 5/16” Hex Drive to fully insert the Self Tapping #10-16 Screws. See Figure L31. Self-Tapping #10-16 screws Figure L31: Rear Bottom Panel installed.
  • Page 95 30. Hand tighten the Receptacle Cover over the Threaded End of the USB Receptacle x Plug. See Figure L33. Receptacle Cover Hand Tightened Figure L33: Receptacle Cover of the USB Receptacle x Plug hand tightened. 31. Reinstall the Regulator Cover: a.

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