Assembly
1. Lubricate inside of casing and cylinder. Lubricate outside of
cylinder. Place cylinder inside casing and drive into place.
Use of cylinder assy tool or old valve will be helpfull or use of
brass bar. Cylinder will snap when locked into place. Some
movement ( ¼'' – ½'' ) is normal. Push cylinder forward.
NOTE: QLX 40 cylinder is pre-shrunk into casing
Assembly tool # 52341229 is available for QLX 50/55 and
assembly tool # 52341286 is available for QLX 60/65.
2. Reassemble distributor with new o-rings (compression cone)
and valve assy. Guide plug still should be in place. Check for
position by rotating clockwise and counter closewise. See
previous note for Airselect setting, keeping in mind not to
rotate below setting #1 or above #5.
3. Place check valve and spring into distrubtor bore.
4. With backhead lying horizontal, lubricate backhead ID and
distrubtor OD. Place distributor assemble inside backhead.
5. Holding on to distrubtor and backhead, place complete
assemble into casing and screw together (grease threads).
6. Once backhead o-ring is compressed into casing, there should
be a minimul gap. This gap should be close when torquing
joints together. SEE PREVIOUS PAGES FOR TORQUE.
7. Moving to chuck end. Lubricate inside casing and piston. Side
piston in by hand, should be free.
8. Install bearing retaining ring.
9. Lubricate bit bearing and install.
10. Place chuck over bit splines along with bit retaining rings and
screw into casing, grease threads and splines.
Disassembly QLX 100
The following disassembly procedure starts with the resumption
that the chuck and backhead threads have been loosened. While
the disassembly process is similar for all DTH hammers, there
are slight distinctions from one model to another that will be
noted.
It's important to note that the piston can only be removed
from the chuck end of the drill.
1. The QLX100 casing is not reversible. To ensure that the
hammer is assembled properly, mark the casing so you can
note which end is the backhead side and which is the chuck
side.
2. Loosen the chuck along with bit and retaining rings and
remove from casing.
3. Remove retaining rings and o-ring from the shank.
4. Remove the chuck from the bit.
5. Using a screwdriver as a tool to free one end, remove the
bearing retaining ring.
6. Pull the bit bearing from the hammer casing. Depending on
the degree of rust or dryness in this area, a bearing puller may
be needed for removal.
7. After removing the bit bearing, the bit bearing stop ring can be
removed by hand.
8. Slide the piston out of the drill, being careful to support its
weight when it's no longer supported by the casing.
9. Moving to the opposite end of the drill, remove the backhead.
Unscrewing the backhead. Use a lifting device or strap to support
the backhead.
10. Remove the check valve and spring.
11. Remove the Belleville spring.
12. Remove the upper end assembly consisting of the valve cap,
valve, distributor, and cylinder. This can be accomplished in
two ways:
a. Insert a brass bar from the chuck end of the drill and tap or
push the complete assembly out of the backhead end.
b. Pull the assembly out using the two provided 5/8-11 UNC
threaded holes in the valve cap.
Removing the upper end assembly.
13. Remove the valve cap from the distributor. Use a brass bar to
knock the valve cap off of the distributor stem.
14. Separate the distributor and cylinder. A preferred method is
to take the cylinder and distributor assembly and fit it over the
small diameter end of the piston, resting vertically on a table
or the floor. Grasp the outside surface of the cylinder and raise
the assembly up, impacting it down onto the piston. This will
free the cylinder. Be careful not to get fingers caught in the
cylinder while driving it up and down.
15.Also, can be seperated by laying distributor and cylinder on
its side, from open end of cylinder use brass bar and drive
against distributor guide.
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