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Passap SwissKnitter Selectomat Manual

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Summary of Contents for Passap SwissKnitter Selectomat

  • Page 1 NEW HOME english swissknitter...
  • Page 2 S E L E C TO M A T the optional extra for yo u r N EW H O M E Sw issknitter The SELECTOMAT makes pattern knitting much easier: all you have to do is arrange the first 12 needles and the SELECTOMAT does the rest for you by repeating the needle setting across the whole width of the needle bed.

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Knitting Guide Contents: Unpacking and Assembly Threading up Stocking Stitch The Sweater The Back The Sleeve The Front So far the chapters of the knitting guide correspond with the contents of the teaching cassette. The following chapters will only be found in the knitting guide Shaping techniques Casting on Casting off/decreasing...

  • Page 4: Unpacking And Assembly

    Unpacking Start by removing the teaching cassette (9) from the styrofoam block and listening to it. The cassette explains how to unpack the machine and set it up, as well as how to knit your first test piece. Remove all the parts from the two styrofoam blocks and check that all the parts are there: The right styrofoam block contains: The Lock...
  • Page 5 Unpacking These are the small accessories: 09.232.12 ____________I) 3 Latch needles 09.802.03 Orange tool 09.942.03 € Yellow tool 09.941.02 Double ended bodkin 09.809.02 Pattern ruler O ___ 0___ 0___ 0___ 0 1 16.570.02 Pattern ruler 1 :2 J D L 16.571.02 Pattern ruler 1 : 3...
  • Page 6 Assembly Lift the empty styrofoam blocks and the body of the From the side insert the row counter into its machine out of the box. support-rail exactly as shown in the illustration. Align the machine with the front table edge in such a If this has been done correctly, the row counter will not way that the machine slightly slopes to the back.
  • Page 7 Assembly Fit the tension arms with the yarn Oil the needle bed well before you Fit the mast for the yarn tensioner place the lock on it. Use only the into the hole on the row counter. tension dial to the top of the mast. enclosed Bellodoroil.
  • Page 8 Assembly needle foot needle head rm ffl J i The Needle Positions The Needle On each end of the needle bed you will find one to four The machine has 179 latch needles. Each needle has a stars. These stars indicate the four needle positions: needle foot and a needle head that closes with a movable latch.
  • Page 9 Assembly Various parts of the machine ♦...

  • Page 10: Threading Up

    Threading the yarn For the following test pieces you will need approximately 230 grms of yarn in the main colour and about 30 grms in a second colour which will be called trimming colour. Use a medium thick plain smooth yarn. (100 grm = approx. 340 m, 1 oz = 104 yards). It is very important for the yarn to Always begin with the end of yarn Thread the yarn into one end of the...
  • Page 11 Threading the yarn Pick up one of the feeding eyelets supplied. Guide the double ended bodkin from the top through the feeding eyelet. Hold the end of the yarn tightly. Remove the yarn from Insert the feeding eyelet into the feeding eyelet the double ended bodkin and fix it in the yarn clamp at support just behind the yarn clamp.
  • Page 12 Threading the yarn Compare your machine with the illustration. Does everything look exactly the same? Now thread the second colour of your yarn into the left side of the yarn tensioner. Look again at the illustrations 27 to 32. After threading fix the yarn in the yarn clamp on the left at the back of the needle bed.

  • Page 13: Stocking Stitch

    Stocking Stitch Knitting in stocking stitch using different stitch sizes The first test piece will teach you how to knit stocking stitch (jersey), and the effect of the different stitch size settings. Always begin with the lock at the right-hand edge of the needle bed. Take the feeding eyelet out of the right-hand support at the back of the bed.
  • Page 14 Stocking Stitch The basic cast on orange pattern ruler. Push every alternate needle forward to Rest Pick up the Position ****. Begin with needle 25 on the right of the centre, continuing to needle 24 on the left of the centre. The large dial at the centre of the lock The front dial is called the needle...
  • Page 15 Stocking Stitch Move the lock slowly and carefully to the left beyond Using the pattern ruler push all needles still in Non needle 30 on the left of the centre. Working Position * between needle 25 on the left and needle 24 on the right to Rest Position * * * *.
  • Page 16 Stocking Stitch Changing colour Take the feeding eyelet with yarn out Push the feeding eyelet from the Take the feeding eyelet with the front into the right feeding eyelet second colour out of its support at of the lock by lifting it vertically out of the holder.
  • Page 17 Stocking Stitch Releasing the knitting from the machine Take the feeding eyelet with which you have been knitting out of the lock and fit it into the left support on the lock. Remove the edge weights from the knitting. Without a feeding eyelet, move the lock across the needles in Working Position**.

  • Page 18: The Sweater

    The Sweater The sweater The sweater we are going to knit is intended for a child about six to seven years old. This will teach you the basic techniques you will need later on when knitting a garment of your own. The back Start with the back.
  • Page 19 The Sweater Cast on for 2:1 rib Pick up the black pattern ruler, i.e. the one where the teeth are closer together. Its teeth will fit behind every third needle. Push every third needle to Rest Position****. Beginning with needle 49 left of centre push every third needle to Rest Position****.
  • Page 20 The Sweater Turning up the mock rib The loops of the first row worked in main colour must now be placed on to the needles so that the rows knitted in trimming colour, here called contrast yarn, may be removed. Turn the welt up as you would a hem.
  • Page 21 The Sweater Decreasing several stitches You now have to decrease 8 stitches at right and left for the armhole. Pick up the orange tool. i ' 2 Insert the eyelet of the orange tool Now push the needle back again. Lift the eyelet of the decker tool out into the needle head at right with a This will only work if you ensure that...
  • Page 22 The Sweater Knit 1 row. Now decrease the same number of stitches, i.e. eight stitches, in the same way on the left side. Knit 65 rows straight. You can now cast off your work. To do this, you proceed in exactly the same manner as for the decreases, but until no stitches remain on the machine.

  • Page 23: The Sleeve

    The Sweater The sleeve The next piece is your sleeve, teaching you how to increase stitches. a 2:1 cast on for rib band, but Using contrast yarn only from needle 25 at right of centre to needle 25 at left of centre, that is over a width of 50 needles. Look again at the illustrations 53 to 55.
  • Page 24 The Sweater Two-coloured Tuck Stitch • #i ✓*/»/* .J'l/t/t *W '« f* **/.,*!> » **'<% % )>♦ • • * < 1 /•*/*,»«*»****.**.« 1 * « AM *4* » « For a trimming at the top of the sleeve we are going to knit a two-coloured tuck stitch pattern.

  • Page 25: The Front

    The Sweater You can now cast off the sleeve in the same way you have cast off the back. The front Knit the welt and section B to row 62 as given for the back (pages 16-19). Knit 24 rows in tuck stitch as given for the sleeve (ill.
  • Page 26 The Sweater Dividing work for neck opening From a yarn ball in main yarn take a length of yarn measuring about 1 metre. Push the 8 empty needles right back to Non Working Using this piece of yarn cast off the centre eight stitches, beginning with needle 4 right of centre Position *.
  • Page 27 The Sweater Before you work the neckband, you may wish to press the knitted pieces, in which case they have to be pinned out to size (i.e. blocked) according to the measurements given in the block diagram. Use a steam iron or place a damp cloth over the knitting and leave to dry. Note: Do not apply any pressure if you use a steam iron.
  • Page 28 The Sweater Making up Press the neckband. Sew the second shoulder seam first, and join the neckband ends. Fold the neckband in half to the inside and sew in position, unravelling contrast yarn and always stitching through the open loops. With right sides facing and using backstitch set in the sleeves.

  • Page 29: Shaping Techniques

    Casting on Shaping techniques In the following section we are setting out once again all you need to know about shaping as well as the working principles you have already learnt while knitting the sweater. Basic cast on (See also page 12) Stitch size as for stocking stitch.
  • Page 30 Casting on Casting on by winding yarn round needle Push all the required needles to Rest Position**** Starting from the left wind the yarn anti-clockwise round the needles. Stitch size as for stocking stitch. Knit one row Lock B INI. Casting on with latch tool Continue to crochet round the rest of the needles in Push the required number of needles to Rest...

  • Page 31: Casting Off/Decreasing

    Decreasing Decreasing 1 stitch To decrease one stitch proceed as follows: Insert the eyelet of the orange tool Push the needle back until the stitch Unhook the orange tool and insert it into the needle head that holds the slips over the closed latch on to the into the needle head of the adjacent shaft of the orange tool.

  • Page 32: Increasing

    Decreasing/Increasing Decreasing 1 stitch using triple decker tool - Using the triple decker tool move the three end stitches one needle in (i.e. the third stitch is now double). - Push empty needle to Non Working Position*. Continue to knit. This procedure is possible on the side where the lock is as well as on the opposite side.
  • Page 33 Increasing Increasing 1 stitch using triple decker tool - Push one empty needle to Working - Place purl stitch loop from row below on to empty 4th needle. Position** at the edge. Continue to knit. - Using the triple decker tool move the three end stitches one needle out.

  • Page 34: The Rest Position

    Rest Position The needles in Rest Position* * * * When the needles are in Rest Position* * * * the stitches remain on them without being knitted off. Automatic needle return If on a row you want all needles so far in Rest Position * * * * to be working again, you can knit them off again automatically by using the return dial Mil.
  • Page 35 Rest Position Decreasing and increasing with short rows (Suitable for heels and hats) Decrease one stitch every alternate row nine times in all. Increase one stitch every alternate row nine times in all. I.e. when the lock is at right, push one needle to Rest Position**** at left. When the lock is at left, push one needle to Rest Position**** at right.

  • Page 36: The Buttonhole

    Buttonhole Horizontal buttonhole Depending on the required size of - Push needles forward until the After pressing the piece of knitting, stitches have slipped behind the the buttonhole, knit off several pull out the contrast thread carefully open latch. stitches (e.g. five) using a length of and sew the loose stitches by hand using backstitch.

  • Page 37: The Test Square

    Test square To knit your own designs, it is absolutely vital that you make a test square first, for only thus can you work out the number of stitches and rows you will have to knit. A test square is always knitted in the yarn, the pattern, the stitch size, and the yarn tension you will be using for your garment.

  • Page 38: Patterning

    Tuck Stitch Patterning Tuck Stitch Patterns Tuck stitch patterns are knitted on lock setting B III. Push the needles on which the loops should be formed to Rest Position * * * *. When the loops have to be knitted off, push the needles back to Advanced Working Position * * * or knit one row with the return dial at Mil.
  • Page 39 Tuck Stitch Chart as for 119 8 R dark col. 8 R light col. Chart as for 121 4 R dark col. 4 R light col.
  • Page 40 Tuck Stitch Tuck stitch patterns with needles in Non Working Position* For these patterns, single needles are pushed to Non Working Position*, i.e. out of work. In the chart they are indicated by a vertical broken line. If you have previously been knitting in stocking stitch, place the respective stitches on to the adjacent needle.

  • Page 41: Slip Stitch

    Slip Stitch Slip stitch patterns Slip stitch patterns are formed by ‘floats’. They are knitted on Lock setting A llll. Push the needles used for knitting normal stitches to Rest Position****. Knit one row Lock A llll. Re-arrange needles. Chart for slip stitch 1 empty square = 1 needle in Working Position * * 1 cross = 1 needle in Rest Position**** 1 row of squares = knit 1 row...

  • Page 42: Fairisle

    Fairisle Fairisle patterns Fairisle is knitted on Lock setting A INI. You always knit two rows main colour and two rows trimming colour. Proceed as follows: Push all needles that have no cross on the first row of squares to Rest Position****. Knit one row Lock A Nil in main colour.

  • Page 43: Fairisle In Tuck Stitch

    Fairisle in Tuck Stitch Fairisle in Tuck Stitch These patterns are knitted on Lock setting B III. Contrary to normal Fairisle the needles only have to be re-arranged every alternate row. Procedure Push all needles that have a cross on the first and second row of squares to Rest Position Knit 2 rows Lock B III in main colour.

  • Page 44: Intarsia

    Intarsia Intarsia knitting Intarsia is knitted on Lock setting D II The needles are in Advanced Working Position***, the yarn is laid across the needles by hand. The feeding eyelet is not in the lock. Our example (You have cast on at least 24 stitches and knitted a few rows stocking stitch in main colour. Prepare one ball of yarn of each trimming colour as well as three balls in main yarn.) - Push all needles to Advanced Working Position***, i.e.
  • Page 45 Intarsia - Place the prepared balls of yarn on the floor. - Fasten the yarn ends coming from the centre of these balls in the yarn clip at right. - Starting from the right, lay main yarn across all needles as far as needle 4 at right of centre. - Now lay first trimming colour across the 6 centre needles.

  • Page 46: Double Rows

    Double Rows Knitting double rows Double rows: this means knitting two rows in one passage of the lock (moving the lock only once across the needles) on Lock setting CII. Procedure: - Push all needles to Advanced Working Position***, i.e. knit one to two rows Lock C III. Set needle return r W V W W W t A / W v at II.

  • Page 47: Double Intarsia

    ’ Double Intarsia Double Intarsia Double intarsia is knitted on Lock setting B II. The needles are in Working Position**, and the needles intended for knitting the second yarn are pushed to Advanced Working Position***, and the yarn laid by hand. Our example (You have cast on at least 26 stitches and knitted a few rows stocking stitch.)

  • Page 48: Lock Settings

    Lock settings The following chart shows you what basically happens on the different lock settings. Do not use lock settings that are not mentioned. Needle position When to use the Needle position Guiding the What happens Lock setting after knitting following positions before knitting Yarn...

  • Page 49: Useful Hints

    Useful Hints Released stitches Released or dropped stitches may be caused by a stitch size that is too big or damaged latch needles. If caused by damaged latch needles the appropriate needles have to be replaced. Replacing a needle - Pull out the needle rail situated below the upper rail at right until the defective needle is cleared. - If either the needle head or the latch are damaged, the needle head must first be broken off with a pair of flat pliers.
  • Page 50 Useful Hints Cleaning Never clean the machine while there is a piece of knitting in it. Cleaning: Every time a garment is finished or daily if the machine is in constant use, proceed as follows: 1. With a soft dry cloth wipe off all surplus oil, or oil that has become black, from the lock and needle bed.
  • Page 51 Useful Hints Never clean the machine while there is a piece of Cleaning knitting in it. Cleaning: Every time a garment is finished or daily if the machine is in constant use, proceed as follows: 1. With a soft dry cloth wipe off all surplus oil, or oil that has become black, from the lock and needle bed.

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