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How to Build the Time Manipulator Guitar Pedal.
This document will guide you to build and test your Time Manipulator guitar pedal.
With all the materials on hand, it takes around 3-4 hours to build it. Try not to rush
and take your time. Play your favourite background music and enjoy the fine art of
building your own guitar effects.
We strongly recommend reviewing the entire instructions before starting. It takes 2
minutes to get a global idea of the build and may save you hours of frustration.
This guide aims to build and test the circuit at the same time in a logical order:
placing the components from small to big and testing.
STEP 0 – Prepare the Material:
You would need:
• Soldering iron with a small tip.
• Solder wire.
• Cutting pliers.
• Multimeter.
• Time Manipulator Kit.
Keep in short hand the PCB plan and the Bill of Materials.
• PCB Plan PDF.
• Schematic PDF.
• Bill of Materials PDF.
• 1590BBS Fuzz Drilling Stencil PDF.
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Summary of Contents for ElectroSmash Time Manipulator
- Page 1 How to Build the Time Manipulator Guitar Pedal. This document will guide you to build and test your Time Manipulator guitar pedal. With all the materials on hand, it takes around 3-4 hours to build it. Try not to rush and take your time.
- Page 2 STEP 1 – Soldering Resistors: There are 30 resistors to be placed. 4.7KΩ Resistors (x26): R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23, R25, R28, R29, R30, R31 470Ω...
- Page 3 STEP 2 – Soldering Small Caps: There are 23 ceramic capacitors to be placed. 100nF capacitors (x15): C1, C10, C13, C16, C18, C19, C20, C25, C30, C31, C32, C33, C34, C35, C40 3nF caps (x4): C11, C14, C26, C28 6.8nF caps (x4): C7, C15, C23, C29...
- Page 4 STEP 3 – Soldering Big Caps: There are 18 electrolytic capacitors to be placed. 47uF capacitors (x18): C2, C3, C4, C5, C6, C8, C9, C12, C17, C21, C22, C24, C27, C36, C37, C38, C39, *Note: The electrolytic caps have polarity, insert the long lead into the hole labeled with “+”...
- Page 5 STEP 4 – Soldering Small Components: There are 14 small components to be placed. IC sockets (x6): U1, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7 Transistors (x2): Q1, Q2 Regulator and Diode D1, U2 Wires J4, J5, J8, J9 Note: U1 is preferred to be a TL072 and U5 a MCP6002 although MCP6002 for both U1 and U5.
- Page 6 STEP 5 – Soldering Big Components: There are 5 big components to be placed. Make sure that you solder them on the correct side of the board (top or bottom). Potentiometers (x2): RV1, RV2 Encoder (x1): ENC1 Footswitch 3PDT (x1) Audio Jacks (x2) J2, J7 (on the other side) Wire (x1)
- Page 7 STEP 6 – Finish the Assembly: Top side: Long leg positive Short leg negative Using 2 short wires (3cm) connect the 2.1mm power jack connector to the – and + pads of the board. Make sure that the short lead goes to – and the long lead to + this will make the power supply centre negative (boss style).
- Page 8 STEP 7 – Checking the Board: The first thing to check is the power supply: • Do not place any IC, keep the sockets empty. • Connect the +9V (centre positive) power supply. +2.5V +2.5V +4.5V With a multimeter, measure the highlighted points. Make sure that the bias voltages reach every chip and they are correct.
- Page 9 Reduce POP mod: In order to reduce the pop sounds when the pedal is engaged, an optional 1M to 2.2M pull down resistor could be placed at the input of the circuit: Note: This optional resistor will not affect the sound performance of the pedal. It will only attenuate the engaging clicks of the footswitch.
- Page 10 STEP 8 – Going into DEBUG MODE: The debugging mode is designed to check every system in the board, it will allow you to make a series of tests and verify the build. Enter DEBUG mode: Just use a wire or a resistor leg to connect the R24 DEBUG pads.
- Page 11 At this point, you are ready to use the pedal. It is designed to be checked before being boxed, so makes everything easier to fix and mod. Have a look at the Time Manipulator Instructions if you have any question about the functionality. At this point, you can also easily reprogram the microcontroller if you want to experiment with sounds.
- Page 12 STEP 10 – Boxing the Electronics: The bare PCB can be used to mark the holes at the exact point: The arrows on the PCB are showing where to mark the 7 holes ( ). They are small so you would need a thin pencil to go through the board.
- Page 13 This is the Hammond 1590BBS drill stencil. Use a cutter to separate the stickers: Note: At the last page of this document, you can see how the stickers are placed. Boss style power supply sticker...
- Page 14 Boxing: • Make sure that all the soldered parts have their legs cut as close as possible to the PCB. • Don’t force the parts into the holes –be gentle- , they are designed to be tight but not forced. If they seem to be stuck, remove the electronics and start again.
- Page 15 You can separate the PCB with your hands or use pair of small pliers to do it. The LEDs are not soldered yet, so you can move them up/down, left/right and once they are in position solder them. Time Manipulator Finished:...
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