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Eggtimer WiFi Switch Assembly Checklist
Before you solder anything, make absolutely sure that you have the correct part and that it is
inserted in the board correctly. The board has all of the component values, outlines, and
polarities silk-screened on the top, so there shouldn't be any doubt about what goes where and
how. Nevertheless, if you have any questions about the assembly procedure, do not hesitate to
drop us a line at
support@eggtimerrocketry.com
before you solder the parts to the board. You
may have to wait a day for the answer, but it could save you a lot of grief later on!
The WiFi Switch Limited Warranty does not cover damage to parts while attempting to
desolder them because you inserted something incorrectly. We spent a lot of time making
sure that the assembly instructions were clear, but once again if you have any questions about
the assembly procedures drop us a line at
support@eggtimerrockety.com
before you solder.
About soldering the resistors and capacitors
A lot of people get put off by the idea of having to solder small SMT parts like resistors and
capacitors, but it's really not that hard to do once you get the hang of it. In fact, many of our
users prefer SMT parts to through-hole parts, because you don't have to clip the leads and they
just plain look cooler. Here's how to mount them... once you do one or two you'll find that
it's actually pretty easy.
Lightly tin only ONE of the two pads on the board. With tweezers, lay the part down on the
board, and heat up the lead over the tinned pad until the solder flows. Wait a few more
seconds, then remove the heat, holding the part there until the solder cools for a few seconds.
Let it cool for another 10 seconds, then carefully solder the other pad, being careful not to use
too much heat. Once the solder starts to flow, remove the heat and let the joint cool. If you
keep the heat on too long, you may heat up the part enough so that both joints melt and the part
is likely to lift off the board when you remove your iron. It might also "tombstone", that is, lay
on end due to the previously-soldered joint melting. If this happens, just heat up the joint,
remove the part with your tweezers, and try again.
After you've soldered the part in place, inspect the joint carefully with a 10x jeweler's loupe.
You should see good solder coverage on the pad with the solder wicking up to side/end of the
part, and there should not be any solder splatter or bridges. (Splatter means your iron is too
hot... turn it down about 50F and try again). If you don't like what you see, heat up the joints
and remove the part, and/or clean it up with some solder wick, and start over.
OK, so let's get started...
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