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6. MAKING A TRIAL CUT
. ;-•
Having completed the above adjustment procedure, it is
now time to make a straight cross-cut in a piece of timber.
Note: If, when you were setting up your machine, the
saw carriage travel was not as smooth as you
would expect, that probably means there are
pieces of polystyrene packing stuck either to the
arm tracks or to the 3 bearings on the yoke
assembly. With a clean, dry cloth wipe both the
tracks and the bearings to eliminate this.
6.1 Wiring up to the
Mains
Single-Phase 240v Models
Connect a standard 13 amp rubber-covered earthed plug
to the cable attached to the machine as shown in the
illustration. Make sure that the cable clamp is holding the
outer sheath of the cable securely before fixing the cap to
the plug.
Plug in and switch on at the mains socket.
Three-Phase 415v Models
Three-phase machines should be wired directly into the
mains by a suitably qualified electrician.
6.2 Making the Cut
(i)
With the mitre lock engaged, lock the arm clamp
handle so that the sawblade is positioned for a
straight 0° cross- cut.
(ii)
Release the rip lock and push the saw carriage back
so that the sawblade is behind the fence in its
correct position depending on the material thickness
(See Fig. 25).
(iii)
Now, by turning the elevating handle, lower the arm
so that the sawblade almost touches the surface of
the table. Place the piece of timber against the front
of the fence.
(iv)
Gripping the switch handle, press the right-hand side
of the push- button switch with the thumb of the
same hand.
(v)
Once the sawblade has reached maximum speed
(after a short speed build-up of 2 or 3 seconds)
rotate the elevating handle to allow the blade to just
cut a shallow groove or kerf in the surface of the
table.
(vi)
Now pull the saw blade slowly towards you so that it
cuts a vertical slot in the wooden fence and through
the piece of timber, and then push the carriage back
to the column.
(vii)
Now switch off the machine by pressing the left-hand
side of the switch.
With a set square check that the cut in your piece of
timber is a true 90° in each plane. If it is not, then
further adjustment is necessary and refer back to the
appropriate instruction.
Note: The control switch on your Powershop incorporates
3 very useful feautures:
(1)
It "locks on" so that thumb pressure does not need
to be maintained — useful when ripping (obviously)
but also advantageous for left-hand operators.
(2)
There is motor overload protection built into it
removing power from the motor in the event of it
overheating.
(3)
It has a "no-volt release" so that if there is a removal
of power the switch has to be deliberately re-
actuated before the motor will run.
FENCE LOCATIONS
The following illustrations show
where the fence must be to perform
each type of cut according to
thickness/width of material.
V-- : . ~
25*
T
v- THICK
45
Mitre
LHai
45
Mitre ut
-R Hi
Fig. 25
13
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