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Summary of Contents for Audiosmile LBM MK2
- Page 1 AUDIOSMILE LBM MK2 DIY ASSEMBLY GUIDE High Resolution Images...
- Page 2 Your self-assembly kit should include the following parts: • Cabinet panel flat packed, x2 • Front baffles with tweeter installed, x2 • Woofers, x2 • Power supply • Link cable • Back panel master • Back panel slave • Port pieces 3 sizes, x2 •...
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Page 3: Tools Required
Tools Required: • Soldering iron • Solder • Hex key 1.5mm and 3mm • Spanner set, open end. 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm 19mm, adjustable • Wire cutters / side cutters • Sharp craft knife • Scissors • Sand paper (~120grit) •... - Page 4 The flat cabinet panels are packed together and wrapped in plastic. Unwrap the panels carefully and remove any tape that is labelled ‘pull’. Do not bend the panels, they are delicate. In addition to the packing tape, the cabinet panels are backed with tape to strengthen them and help with folding.
- Page 5 A knife blade can may help to remove stubborn dirt from the narrow port rebates and other small areas. The panel should be perfectly clean so nothing will obstruct the assembly. Do not use a knife in the V- grooves. Use a finger to align loose fibres on the edges of the V-groove cuts so they don't get caught when folding the panel.
- Page 6 You may wish to attempt a 'dry' construction first without glue. However be gentle not to break the cabinet at the V- grooves. Place glue in: • Port rebates A1, A2 • Port Rebates B1, B2 • Port Rebates C1, C2 •...
- Page 7 Slide port piece B in to port rebate B1/B2. Align with the 'T' shaped cut. Place glue in port rebate B3 and V-groove 3 and 4. Hold the cabinet closed and align the join. Hold the cabinet so it doesn't change shape.
- Page 8 Use a knife blade or tissue so remove excess glue, especially from the inside corners front and back. Turn the cabinet so it is facing up as pictured. Place the baffle temporarily in the cabinet to ensure the cabinet is square. Carefully align the corner joint and hold it closed with one hand, while applying masking-tape tightly around the...
- Page 9 Turn the cabinet so it is facing down as pictured. Carefully align the other side of the joint and tape it. Remove the baffle. Place a thick line of glue on one long edge of port piece C. Slide Port Piece C in to rebates C1/C2 until it is flat with the baffle rebate.
- Page 10 The back panel supports must now be installed. Smaller Gap Due to a mistake in design drawings, the Larger Gap left and right mounting holes in the metal panels are not aligned equally. Therefore the back panel supports must be positioned correctly to match.
- Page 11 Press the back panel supports in to position. Ensure they are flat with the back panel rebate. NOTE: After the glue has cured, now is a good time to sand the cabinet and make it look as you want. Options include iron-on veneer, wood wax, varnish, paint, scotchprint (vehicle) wrap, etc..
- Page 12 Install one link connector in the slave panel. The spring washer and nut should go on the back of the panel. Align the connector ‘lug’ to the bottom of the panel. The front of the link connector has flat sides so it can be held with a spanner. The flat are spaced 14.5mm which is not a standard size, so an adjustable spanner will help.
- Page 13 Install a ground ring on the main left (black) connector. It will be needed later. Try to position it to the bottom of the panel. Ground Ring Insert the hole cap in the blank subwoofer hole. Insert the 3.5mm jack connector in the ‘Aux’...
- Page 14 Insert the source switch in the source selector hole, with the plastic lug going in the small hole for alignment. Make it tight. The nut is 14mm. Make it so! The power switch has two nuts. Put one nut at the bottom of the switch shaft. Sealant Nut 1 The shaft has a slot in it, use a small...
- Page 15 Install the DC Jack. The nut is 10mm. Install the Link Connector, with the lug to the bottom of the panel. The flats are 14.5mm. The nut is 19mm.
- Page 16 Ribbon Socket Now we install a connector socket on Power Socket each PCB. Face the Power PCB with the printing Switch PCB facing against the table and the 6 holes on the left, as pictured. Note: Print side down! Power PCB Insert the Power Connector as shown, the gaps face towards you.
- Page 17 Turn the PCB over and solder the pins. Be careful not to join any pins together as they are small. Place the Switch PCB over the pins of all connectors as pictured. It is important to be careful, so that the pins of all parts go in the PCB correctly without damage.
- Page 18 Now solder the pins of all connectors to the PCB. Ensure the RCA connectors are soldered well. They are large, so may need more heating time for the solder to flow well. Cut the long legs of the LED. Use a small piece of wire to connect the RCA ground ring to the large hole in the PCB next to that RCA pin.
- Page 19 Place the Power PCB over the wires as pictured. PCB printing to the switches. The short leg of the DC Jack (positive voltage) should connect to the bottom of the 3 holes. The long leg of the DC Jack (negative voltage) should connect to one of the 2 other holes.
- Page 20 Find the diode and fold the legs at the bottom of the body as pictured. Install the diode in the Power PCB as pictured. Solder the legs. Find the Power Cable and connect the Power PCB to the Main PCB.
- Page 21 Find the ribbon cable and connect the Switch PCB to the Main PCB. Find the Source Knob (larger one) and make sure the grub screw is not going to block the switch shaft entering. The grub screw is 1.5mm Hex / Allen Key. Make sure the Source Switch is in the middle setting.
- Page 22 Find the Volume Knob (smaller one) and make sure the grub screw is not going to block the shaft entering. The grub screw is 1.5mm Hex / Allen Key. Ensure the volume control is at the minimum setting. Put the knob on the shaft aimed at the minimum dot.
- Page 23 Updated Step) The cabinet damping foam is supplied as one sheet. It should be cut as shown. Updated Step) The port damping foam is supplied as one sheet. It should be cut as shown.
- Page 24 Cut a piece of cabinet damping foam to 6cm x 6cm and glue it in the cabinet as pictured. Note: Do not place directly behind the woofer as this will block the magnet venting hole. Place a line of glue around the baffle rebate.
- Page 25 Updated Step) Use silicone sealant to seal the join between front baffle and port edge as pictured. A scraper or spatula can help press sealant in the join. Perhaps a business card from somebody you don’t like can suffice. Be careful not to make the cabinet messy with sealant.
- Page 26 Strip the end of the woofer wires and solder them to the woofer as pictured. Red + Black – Correct wiring is important! Press the woofer firmly in the baffle. There is a cut-out to match the woofer connection plate. Screw in the woofer with 4x black screws.
- Page 27 Connect the woofer and tweeter plug to the Main PCB as pictured. Close the cabinet back. Affix with 4x silver screws. Screws are 3mm Hex. Cut 2x pieces of port damping foam 3cm x 6cm. Place in the left and right side of the port exit.
- Page 28 Finally, we can test the master speaker! Set the volume to half. Set the source to BT. Connect the power supply. Turn the power switch on. You should see a green LED and hear a ‘beep, beep’ as the bluetooth module starts to look for your device.
- Page 29 Woofer black Strip the tweeter and woofer wires Tweeter red and solder them to the Link Connector on the slave back panel. The Link Connector pins are numbered. Tweeter black to Pin 1 Woofer red Tweeter black Tweeter red to Pin 2 Woofer black to Pin 3 Woofer red to Pin 4 Close the cabinet back.
- Page 30 Bass Run In File – https://audiosmile.squarespace.com/s/Bass-Run-In.mp3 Now the speakers are complete, we can run a few tests to check for air leaks and correct ‘phase’. Cabinet Seal - Simple version: Play the test sweep recording and listen for unpleasant chuffing and farting sounds at cabinet joints and screw holes etc..
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