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- 0 Gauge Skill Builder Kit -
LNER Toad E, 20 ton Brake Van
The Toad E was the final design of 10'6" wheelbase brake van built by the LNER in
large numbers in the early 1930's. They remained a common sight at the end of
freight trains into the 1960's.
Wheels, 3'1", 3 Hole Disc (7122) are required to complete, Available from Slater's,
Temple Road, Matlock Bath, Derbyshire, DE4 3PG, Telephone 01629 583993.
I am increasingly finding customers who are newcomers to 0 gauge and metal kit building,
asking for a suitable wagon kit that will help them to build up their skills and develop
construction techniques before moving on to a locomotive. To help achieve this I have
produced a set of instructions alongside building a sample model and have tried to describe
not only when and where to fit a part but how I did it, detailing the techniques and tools that I
used. This text is complemented by, scale drawings, isometric exploded diagrams and
illustrations of the finished model. A brake van is probably ideal for this purpose as the
variety of small parts; overlays, handrails and varied castings provide the opportunity to
develop a wide variety of different building skills and techniques. The quality and fit of all
parts in this kit is very good, as good as most and a lot better than some kits that are on the
market, but still require a little fitting and fettling at an acceptable level.
To provide a starting point I have made a couple of assumptions about you the modeller. I
have assumed that you have done some modelling before and have a basic tool kit. I have
assumed that you have mastered basic soldering, perhaps having built some track work and
a very simple wagon kit. If this is not the case, all is not lost, but you may find a chat with me
about basic techniques and getting started helpful.
Jim McGeown, Connoisseur Models, 33 Grampian Road,
Penfields, Stourbridge, DY8 4UE, Telephone 01384 371418
What's A Skill Builder Kit ?
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Summary of Contents for Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E
- Page 1 - 0 Gauge Skill Builder Kit - LNER Toad E, 20 ton Brake Van The Toad E was the final design of 10’6” wheelbase brake van built by the LNER in large numbers in the early 1930’s. They remained a common sight at the end of freight trains into the 1960’s.
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Page 2: General Instructions
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS Please read this section carefully, especially if this is your first etched brass kit. Many modellers fight shy of working in this medium, but the basic skills are relatively easy to acquire. Once you’ve learned how to form and solder brass, you’ll find all kinds of modelling possibilities will open up for you. - Page 3 the joint with the iron tip. Don’t load the iron tip with a lot of extra solder, but work the joint in 1” lengths, bringing in small quantities of solder. Brass is a very forgiving material and if you get something out of alignment, use heat from the iron to desolder the joint before starting again.
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- Page 6 Solder Retaining collar LNER TOAD E BRAKE VAN ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS First remove the sides, parts 1, and the cabin ends, parts 4, from the fret. Then remove the waste containing brake linkage from the doorways and fold the top and bottom of the sides 90°.
- Page 7 Check with an engineers square that the outer ends of the body are square and level to each other. If not, push the two sides in opposite directions until they are. It is important that the outer ends are square but if to achieve this the inner cabin ends are slightly out of square this wont be noticed.
- Page 8 I spot-soldered the horizontal to vertical handrail joints using 60/40 electrical solder as this gives a stronger joint than using 145° solder. Use plenty of flux and make sure the solder runs all around the joint. The end handrails are the trickiest to do, as the joint with the vertical handrail needs locating by eye (you can lay a rule along the horizontal body side handrail and nick the end vertical handrails with a file to give you a location mark).
- Page 9 Now fold up the sides of the base unit, part 20, and for the fixed wheel set the two fold-up tabs. Then solder the wheel set unit to these tabs. For the pivoting unit, clear the holes for a piece of 1.2mm copper rod.
- Page 10 Now for the roof. I have pre-rolled this in my rolling bars but you may have to work it a little with finger and thumb to get it to the exact profile. Mark out and drill holes for the chimney and ventilators, making the ventilator holes slightly undersize so the casting will be a tight push fit into the hole.
- Page 11 Make a floor from the quality card that the etch was packed onto and glue inside the cabin with Evostick. I prefer a card floor as this helps to deaden the rattling empty box noise that you can get when the wagon is running on a layout. For glazing the end windows, you can use clear plasticard, but I prefer to cut flat sheets from the clear blister packs that many items are packaged in nowadays.
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- Page 13 Bolt Head and Rivet Forming Tool Although a very reasonable job can be done with a scriber point, a rivet forming tool is very desirable if you are going to do a lot of kit building. These are produced by a number of different people but I use and would recommend the one produced by Dick Ganderton, Graskop, Dewlands Road, Verwood, Dorset, BH31 6PN, Tel 01202 822701.
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