Automatic Buttonholes; A) To Make Buttonhole; B) Flat-Stitched Buttonholes; Automatic Blindstitching - Necchi Automatic Supernova Ultra Mark 2 User Instructions

48. AUTOMATIC
BUTTONHOLES
The special cam-group for
buttonholes may be turned in
respect of its handle in two
different positions: one for
buttonholes on heavy fabrics
(marked by a large button-
hole) and the other for button-
holes on light fabrics (marked
with a small buttonhole).
To change from one position to another:
G
Fig. 67
- Press cam-group as shown on Fig.
67
and bring index •
G
»
in correspon-
dence with the desired buttonhole.
- When it is in the correct position, a click will be heard and the cam
group
will
remain fixed.
a) TO MAKE BUTTONHOLE
Stop the automatic mechanism (see para.
45)
and set machine as follows:
- Lever •
B
»
(Fig. 1): in left notch.
- Lever • C »: on the left.
- Knob
«
D
» :
on red square mark. Check correct position by trying out
on a piece of fabric similar to the fabric on which buttonhole is to be
made.
- Needle: for light fabrics: no. 70 (10); fo r heavy fabrics no. 90 (14).
- Upper thread: mercerized cotton no.
40.
- Lower thread : mercerized cotton no.
50.
- Tension: for light fabrics, on
5;
for heavy fabrics tensions should be tighter.
- Presser foot: use transparent foot provided with guide for buttonholes;
regulate position of guide in accordance with the desired length of button-
hole.
Now proceed as follows:
- Insert cam-group into machine (Fig. 68).
- With needle in its highest position, bring handle in position 1 (handle
completely on the left) Fig. 68.
- Make upper bar tack with 3 or 4 stitches.
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- Move handle to position 2 and make first
row of stitches; stop when upper bar
tack is in contact with presser foot guide.
- Move handle to position
3;
machine will
sew in reverse with straight stitches.
Stop when needle reaches upper bar
tack.
& -
Move handle to position 4 and make se-
Fig. 68
cond row of stitches; stop when needle is
out of fabric.
- Move handle to position 5 and make
lower bar tack with 3 or 4 stitches;
buttonhole is then completed.
- Remove work and knot the two threads together on the underside of
fabric.
- Cut fabric between the two rows of stitches with NECC!Il buttonhole
cutter (Fig, 59).
b ) FLAT-STITCHED BUTTONHOLES
Proceed as described in preceding paragraph with the following exceptions:
- Upper tension: set on 4, thread no. 50.
- Lower tension: normal, thread no. 50.
49. AUTOMATIC BLINDSTITCHING
P r oceed as described in para. 41 but
with the following machine setting:
- Cam group: no. V.
- Knob
"A»
(Fig.
1):
on
1.
- Lever
«
B
» :
in left notch.
- Lever " C
» :
on the left.
- Knob «D»: on 2.
Fig. 69
NOTE : If the seam appears on the inner side of folded fabric also, adjust the
position of guide by means of screw " F
»
(Fig. 69).
37