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BMW E46 Subwoofer System by BSW Installation Guide:
ib110 for BMW 3 Series, M3 Convertible '00-'06 (E46)
Please note: This is a supplement for the installation videos that you will find on our
website (www.bavsound.com). Locate your vehicle and find the respective video
installation guide covering the D.110 Subwoofer Upgrade. There are details we go
over in the installation videos that cannot possibly be covered as effectively through
the written word. This guide is meant to help you in the garage. We still suggest taking
your computer/tablet/phone to the car with you and streaming the videos to make sure
everything goes off without a hitch. Now, let's get started!
You'll need:
• Bavsound tool kit (or some variety thereof - the video highlights the tools needed for
this particular installation) -
Interior-Disassembly-Tool-Kit/
• Wire Crimpers
• Metric Wrench / Socket Set
• Tunes in the garage (your choice)
Before you Begin
Please review and familiarize yourself completely with these instructions before
•
starting work on your vehicle!
Ensure that your bass and treble settings are set to their default middle positions
•
before installing your new speaker upgrade. Once you've installed your Stage
1, you can reset the bass and treble settings to taste. Keep in mind that we
generally recommend keeping them both very close to center as large
adjustments introduce distortion into the audio signal and will lower
performance of your system.
http://www.bavsound.com/product/414/361/BSW-
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Summary of Contents for Bavsound ib110
- Page 1 Now, let’s get started! You’ll need: • Bavsound tool kit (or some variety thereof - the video highlights the tools needed for this particular installation) - http://www.bavsound.com/product/414/361/BSW- Interior-Disassembly-Tool-Kit/ •...
- Page 2 Be sure and watch this video which covers wiring connections for the new • Bavsound amplifier in your E46: http://vimeo.com/28744796 Also, here’s how we’ll tune the amplifier once we’ve installed it: http:// • vimeo.com/28743443 We’re going to proceed as follows:...
- Page 3 floor panel. Simply screw the amplifier to the trunk floor. Interior Disassembly To make the installation as simple as possible, we’ll get the car the entire way apart first, and then we’ll make our connections. First look underneath the armrests on the side panels on either side of the vehicle.
- Page 4 At this point, it makes things a bit easier to remove the seating area of the backseat to grant better access to the side panels. Simply lift upward and the seat will free itself. Unhook the leather flap that attaches the cushion to the back portion of the backseat and remove the seat bottom.
- Page 5 Now, look back to the area uncovered by the side panels. You will see three 7mm bolts along the bottom edge of the top panel. Remove these. Starting at the rear of the panel, pull toward you and downward.
- Page 6 Now pull outward and downward, freeing up the top edges of the panel, then remove this panel. The panel will come out, revealing the factory amplifier in its housing. Here is where all of your wiring connections will be made. The arrows below show where the 8mm bolts are used to secure the amplifier bracket housing.
- Page 7 We now need to remove the back cushion of the backseat. To do this, first lift both headrests up as high as they can be lifted. You don’t have to remove them completely. Now, look on the bottom section of the back cushion and you’ll see where it attaches to the vehicle using a 10mm nut on each side of the car.
- Page 8 Lift the headrests upward a few notches, and simply lift upwards. The seat back will free itself. Now unwrap the seat belts from the cushion, and remove from the vehicle. Factory Subwoofer Removal (HK Cars Only) We also need to remove the factory subwoofer, which is easiest to do from the trunk. Open the subwoofer door to where the ski pass is completely open.
- Page 9 The front half of the enclosure can be removed from the inside of the cabin. It is secured using 4 Torx T30 bolts. Remove these and the pathway is now clear for the new enclosure to be installed. We can now bolt the new enclosure into the car. This couldn’t get any easier. Unravel the wire coming from the bottom of the enclosure.
- Page 10 IMPORTANT: It is imperative that the enclosure seal tightly against the rear wall. The speaker wire CANNOT impede this seal. Make sure that the speaker wire enters the trunk in such a way that doesn’t affect this seal. Now simply bolt the new enclosure into place using the factory hardware. Make sure that the bolts are VERY secure, and you’re ready to begin installing the amplifier at this point.
- Page 11 Begin by removing all items from the trunk of the vehicle and make sure that all tail lights are in working order. If not, now is a good time to replace them. Also remove the carpet that covers the floor of the trunk, as it will reveal several fasteners that you will remove later.
- Page 12 Power, Ground, and Turn-On Amplifier Connections...
- Page 13 (see supplemental video at http://vimeo.com/28744796) IMPORTANT: Before you make any connections, disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery. This will reduce the chance of electrical damage to the vehicle. Your new amplifier produces quite a bit more power than the original amplifier. As a result, the original amplifier power and ground wires simply aren’t large enough to provide the new amplifier enough power.
- Page 14 Power Wire (Included Red Wire): Connect to +12V terminal on new amplifier Run the large red wire to the positive terminal of the battery. Loosen and remove the 10mm nut on top of the terminal that secures the actual terminal to the battery. Put the...
- Page 15 amplifier power wire ring over the bolt, and tighten the nut back down with the terminal on the battery. This is the primary power supply for your new amplifier. Connect the other side of the power wire to the +B terminal on the amplifier. ONLY when both sides of the wire are connected should you install the included fuse into the in-line.
- Page 16 Once you’ve identified these two plugs, we need to remove them from the outer black housing. Once removed, the remote turn on wire is in the grey connector, Pin #10.
- Page 17 Getting the music to your new amplifier (Audio Input Connections) Again, it is important to remember here that we are essentially “T’ing” into the factory wires. It is important that the factory signal flow be allowed to continue back into the factory amplifier. You’ll need to isolate the following four (4) wires.
- Page 18 -Blue w/Black Stripe (+) twisted with Brown w/Orange Stripe (-) -Yellow w/Black Stripe (+) twisted with Brown w/Orange Stripe (-) Visual Representation of Tapping into the Factory Wires: Here is a visual of how we’ll make the connections. Basically, we’re just “T’ing” into the factory wire, so you’ll want to cut the wire directly in half, at a minimum of 6”...
- Page 19 After stripping back approximately ¼’ of the insulation from the wires, exposing the copper wiring itself, twist one side of the factory wire that you cut in half together with either the included blue remote turn on wire or one of the RCA leads, of course depending on your connection.
- Page 20 connection if the wires are separated. Double-check your connections! With the variety of wire colors and the number of wires present in this area of the trunk, it’s easy to make a mistake. Before going any further, it’s absolutely worth your time to insure that you’ve made the right connections.
- Page 21 turn off when you take the key out of the ignition. Test this out a couple of times to make sure. If it does not, and you are having trouble figuring out why, give us a call or drop us a line. Trust us, it won’t be anything major. Go back over the above connections, and you’ll undoubtedly find a small, silly mistake.
- Page 22 The tuning is the most important aspect of the installation. Don’t rush any aspect of the tuning. You may ride around a few days and find that you need to make some adjustments. Don’t worry, this is perfectly normal. Crossover Adjustments: This can be tricky, but if you keep your ears open, it shouldn’t take long at all.
- Page 23 the car and the radio on. If you don’t have 12-14 volts on the remote turn on terminal, your connection may be the issue. Make sure your power and ground connections are correct. Using your DMM, • again check each terminal to make sure that a connection has been established. -Ground Connection: Set the DMM to its continuity section.