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URAL Motorcycles 2000 TOURIST Repair Manual

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Year 2000
Repair Manual

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  • Page 1 Year 2000 Repair Manual...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter 1: General Information 1.1 URAL Specifications ..........1.2 Maintenance, Lubrication and Tune-up .
  • Page 3 Chapter 5: Gearbox 5.1 Description and Specifications ......... . 5.2 Gearbox (Solo Motorcycle) .
  • Page 4 10.3 Substitute Parts ........... . Chapter 11: Conversion Tables Appendix # 1 Wiring Schematics .
  • Page 5 This Repair Manual deals with maintenance and repair of all U.S. Specification URAL motorcycles.  The Repair Manual provides information on setup, tune-ups, servicing, diagnosing problems, removing and installing components (otherwise referred to as "assembly units"), overhauling components, adjusting repaired components, and testing the repaired motorcycle.
  • Page 6 done or of all the possible hazardous consequences of each way, we have not undertaken any such broad evaluation. Accordingly, anyone who uses a service procedure or tool which is not recommended must first thoroughly satisfy himself that neither his nor the operator’s safety will be jeopardized by the service methods selected.

  • Page 7: Chapter 1: General Information

    GENERAL INFORMATION SPECIFICATIONS *Note: -10 Models are Deco Classics GENERAL TOURIST / SPORTS SOLO UTILITY/ *-10 Mdls Maximum speed of motorcycle 108 km/h / 65 mph 122 km/h / 77 mph *119km/h / 74 mph Reference fuel consumption at 85% of 12.5 km/l / 29 mpg 16.7 km/l / 39 mpg maximum speed...
  • Page 8 ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT Ignition system 12 V Ignition coil B204 Spark plugs NGK BP7HS or NDW20FP-1 Ignition timing Automatic spark timer Power supplies Alternator Storage battery (Russian supplied with new motorcycle) Recommended replacement: Interstate #12N9-4B-1 Voltage regulator (electronic) Internal to Alternator Horn C205B URAL ...
  • Page 9 RUNNING GEAR TOURIST / SPORTSMAN SOLO Frame Tubular welded Rear wheel suspension Swing arm with hydraulic spring Sidecar: same as -40 shock absorbers Solo: Lower spring rate Front fork Leading link Telescopic spring Sidecar Cushioned body (on rubber cushions) and wheel on long-lever suspension with hydraulic spring shock absorber Brakes...
  • Page 10 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Metric (in repair manual) US Equivalent Location on Bike 29 to 33 Nm 22 ft/lb. to 30 ft/lb. cylinder heads 22 to 25 kgf-m 175 ft/lb. to 185 ft/lb. fly wheel tightening screws 3.8 to 4.2 kgf-m 30 ft/lb. to 40 ft/lb. cylinder 2.1 to 3.0 kgf-m top 14 ft/lb.
  • Page 11 CAUTION: During the initial 2,500 km of use a fundamental bedding-in of parts for all the mechanisms of the motorcycle takes place. During this period do not overload the engine or race the motorcycle in excess of the speeds specified in the section "Running-In of New Motorcycle." Doing so will void the warranty.

  • Page 12: Maintenance, Lubrication And Tune-Up

    1.2 Maintenance, Lubrication, & Tune-up Maintenance Intervals Maintenance intervals recommended are based on operational experience under various climatic and road conditions. However, these intervals may be extended or reduced following repeated checks of the lubricant condition and general technical condition of the motorcycle. In certain sections of this manual you will find references to more frequent maintenance intervals than the "Light Duty"...
  • Page 13 Table 1.2-1 Lubrication Chart Item Part To Be Lubricated Lubricant Schedule Lever pin and interrupter felt Industrial oil or spindle Every 5,000 km Pins and weight holes, automatic unit Every 5,000 km cam bushing Engine crankcase 20w/50 Det. oil and Every 2,500 km URAL Oil filter...
  • Page 14 Table 1.2-1 (cont’d) Lubrication diagram...
  • Page 15 Control Cable Maintenance The daily preventive maintenance involves checking the functioning of the cables, the condition and fastening of the tie rods and cables and braking action. Refer to the maintenance summary for lubricating and schedule. After every 5,000 km, check the condition of the brakes, clean the brake shoes and the active surface of the brake drums, lubricate the hinge pins and the cams of the brake linings, the joints, the linkage of the rear and sidecar wheel brakes, lever axles, the parking brake bearing, the throttle control twist grip, the lever pins and ends of cables used in the clutch, the front brake control, the control cables used in the...

  • Page 16: Normal Operation

    Normal Operation This section describes techniques and precautions for operating a URAL motorcycle, including break-  in procedures for new or rebuilt engines. Pre-ride Preliminaries Before each ride, attend to all the requirements of the everyday maintenance as outlined in this manual. When filling the motorcycle with fuel and oil, take care to avoid spills that might damage the machine or create safety or environmental hazards.
  • Page 17 lever just far enough to engage it; about 1/4 of its travel. The standard Russian position for starting the sidecar motorcycle is standing on the passenger peg on the right foot, and stepping down on the kickstarter with the ball of the left foot. Take up the slack in the throttle until you can feel some slight resistance from the return springs in the carburetors.
  • Page 18 Cold Engine, Warm Day When the engine has been standing for several hours but the ambient temperature is high (60°F or above), it will probably start without enrichment. If it doesn't fire, use one of the following procedures. Cool Engine, Cool Day When the engine is cool or cold and the ambient temperature is between 40-60 F, pull out both enricheners.
  • Page 19 WARNING: When shifting to lower gears with the motorcycle in motion, do not downshift at speeds higher than those listed in the table. Shifting to lower gears when speed is too high may severely damage the transmission or cause the rear wheel to lose traction. Shift to neutral before shutting off the engine.
  • Page 20 During the running-in period, a new motorcycle requires the most careful attention. In the course of this period, do not overload the machine, avoid traveling on freeways and climbing steep upgrades. Do not race the engine or allow it to overheat at any time. Pay special attention to lubrication of the engine.

  • Page 21: Troubleshooting

    1.4 Troubleshooting Troubleshooting Although some parts may fail suddenly, most parts degrade gradually and troubles that develop over a period of time tend to go unnoticed by the owner. The engine may gradually lose power as the cylinders lose compression. Oil and fuel consumption gradually increase. Noises gradually get louder. Seals may start to weep oil, or hoses begin to disintegrate.
  • Page 22 E. Wheels • acceptable wear of the brake drum inner surface • tire wear and condition • axial play and radial runout of the wheel rim and tire • no cracks or dents in the wheel rim • running condition of the wheel hub bearings •...
  • Page 23 I. Kick starter • proper engagement of the kickstarter pawl • starter turns engine without pawl slipping • kickstarter lever quickly returns to top when released J. Driveshaft (Propeller shaft) and final drive (∗(Sportsman sidecar Drive Shaft) • no excessive play or noise in the flexible coupling joints, universal joint or final drive gears •...
  • Page 24 Operational Testing and Measurement A mechanic experienced with the URAL should be able to quickly determine the condition of an  engine by feeling for hot spots, listening for abnormal noises and knocking of a running engine using a stethoscope and for condition of running gear by observing coasting ("free-wheeling") distances.
  • Page 25 Engine performance can also be measured by a brief maximum speed test on a section of straight, level pavement. A URAL , equipped with a sidecar, in good condition should easily maintain over 55 mph /  90 kmph. As a comparison, if coasting distance is shorter than normal, that indicates problems such as dragging brakes, dragging clutch, worn wheel bearings, final drive bearing failure or sidecar out of alignment.
  • Page 26 Table 1.4-1 Determining the technical condition of engine by discerning principal noises and knocks Zone where Nature of knocks Point (joint of Thermal Engine running Conclusion about fitness for knocking is parts) where condition of duty further service audible knocking is engine possible Cylinder area...
  • Page 27 Front top portion Frequent rolling Generator gear to Variable Having adjusted clearance between gears of engine metallic ratting camshaft gear (by turning generator frame), continue to squeal run the motorcycle normally Front end of Frequent metallic Breather to front Warmed Idle running Operation can be continued.
  • Page 28 Table 1.4-2. Troubleshooting Trouble Symptoms and diagnosing Cause Remedy Engine fails to start. Improper starting technique. Proper starting procedure: Open petcock. Open enrichener (pull out) Switch on ignition. Put kill switch in “on” position (down). Stand on right foot on passenger foot pedal, kick start pedal with left foot.
  • Page 29 Trouble Symptoms and diagnosing Cause Remedy B) Carburetor jets or unbalanced channel of float chamber clogged. 2. Faulty spark plugs. 3. Pilot lamp is blinking. 3. Poor contact of battery 3. Restore proper contact of terminals. battery terminals. 4. Mixture too rich due to flooding of float chamber: A) Engine smokes badly, backfire A) Float needle valve either dirty...
  • Page 30 Trouble Symptoms and diagnosing Cause Remedy A) Check whether gasoline flows A) Carburetor flooded due to poor A) Check condition of float out of float chamber (over- fit of float valve. valve and fuel level in float flooding of chamber). chamber.
  • Page 31 Trouble Symptoms and diagnosing Cause Remedy gear fails to be engaged by With gear change foot pedal Upper screw of gear change foot Readjust crank upper screw by applying gear change foot depressed to the limit, pedal on pedal crank is misadjusted. turning out top adjusting screw.
  • Page 32 Trouble Symptoms and diagnosing Cause Remedy 2. Check tightening of nuts or 2. Fork leg tip seals or their nuts 2. Screw in nuts or seals. seals. loose. Shock absorber squeaking 1. Cocking of upper barrel. Rod unscrewed out of end piece. 1.
  • Page 33 are evident. Shock absorber is knocking. 1. Deteriorated rubber bushings 1. Check fastening and conditions 1. Change worn parts. or end fastening silent blocks. of parts. 2. Bolts fastening the shock 2. Check fastening bolts. 2. Tighten up bolts. absorber are loose. CONTROLS Carburetor throttle control 1.
  • Page 34 3. Cam is stuck in position 3. Brake cam seized due to large 3. Using adjusting bolts readjust corresponding to maximum turn angle, caused by worn linings clearance of brake shoes. separation of shoes and fails to of brake shoes. return into initial position.
  • Page 35 Trouble Symptoms and diagnosing Cause Remedy 2. If wires are connected outside the 2. Wire break in circuit from 2. Find out and remedy break. coupling block, ,lamps fail to glow. fuse block terminal to coupling block or behind it. With light “On”, either 1.

  • Page 36: General Dismantling And Repair Techniques

    1.5 General Dismantling And Repair Techniques When it has been determined that a component needs repair, try to remove the minimum number of parts and assemblies necessary to determine the specific problem and solve it. Certain components can be partially dismantled while still on the motorcycle. For example, the cylinder heads can be removed without taking off the cylinders.
  • Page 37 Standard automotive and aviation gasket compounds, lubricants, and sealants may be used on URAL  components in lieu of the specified Russian products, unless otherwise noted. Stripped threads in housings may be repaired with metric coil-type thread inserts. Metric fasteners are readily available in the USA at hardware and auto parts stores.
  • Page 38 Table 1.5-1 Critical Dimension of Engine Components ∗ NOTE: ALL DIMMENSIONS LISTED ARE GIVEN IN MM Tolerated limits Positive Allow. Negative Allow. Part No. & Rated size & No. name of Rated size & allow. min. max. min. max. Remarks name tolerance mating...
  • Page 39 Tolerated limits Positive Allow. Negative Allow. Part No. & Rated size & No. name of Rated size & min. max. min. max. Remarks name (shaft) tolerance mating allow. member (hole) ∗ 6601022-A -0.010 6601237 +0.055 0.040 0.077 Compression Piston ring (ring 0.022 (groove depth) -0.030...
  • Page 40 Tolerated limits Positive Allow. Negative Allow. Part No. & Rated size & No. name of Rated size & allow. min. max. min. max. name tolerance mating member (shaft) (hole) +0.004 6201136 +0.008 0.025 0.027 Ball Front bearing bearing -0.017 housing -0.023 6201401- +0.062...
  • Page 41 Table 1.5-2 Maximum tolerated limits of Wear and Clearances Between Principal mating Members of the Engine, ∗ IN MILIMETERS ∗ . Maximum Tolerances Name of parts Wear on Out-of-round Diameter clearance Measuring point and method and mated pairs diameter and taper of parts Crankpin to 0.100...

  • Page 42: Chapter 2: Chassis And Running Gear

    CHASSIS AND RUNNING GEAR 2.1 Description and General Specifications The chassis and running gear of the motorcycle is comprised of the motorcycle and the sidecar frames, operating controls, wheel suspension, brakes, wheel assemblies and tires, fenders, bench seat, and windshield (if equipped). The frame is the principal bearing element of the motorcycle to which all the units and assemblies of the motorcycle are attached.
  • Page 43 Figure 2.1-1 Motorcycle and Sidecar Frames 1 - Rear suspension swinging arm 10 - Collet clamp 20 - Lever 2 - Rear mud shield 11 - Collet clamp screw 21 - Brake tie rod 3 -Rear grab bar 12 - Motorcycle stand 22 - Brake drum cover 4 - Spring-loaded hydraulic shock 13 - Brake pedal...

  • Page 44: Operating Controls

    2.2 Operating Controls Figure 2.2-1. Controls and Instrumentations 1 - Speedometer 12 - Gear shift (foot) pedal 2 - Turn indicator pilot lamp 13 - Turn indicator switch 3 - Trip odometer reset knob 14 - Horn push-button 4 - Neutral and reverse gear engagement pilot 15 - "High-low"...
  • Page 45 Clutch lever (16). When the clutch lever is squeezed, the clutch is released - the engine is disengaged from the gearbox. When the lever is released, the clutch is engaged and the engine is connected to the gearbox. The clutch allows manual selection of gears in ascending or descending sequence. WARNING: Both the clutch and front brake levers are capable of contacting the handlebar grip, depending on adjustment.
  • Page 46 WARNING: An improperly adjusted rear brake pedal could contact the exhaust system and interfere with proper rear brake operation. An improperly adjusted rear brake push rod could cause dragging brakes or interference between brake pedal and exhaust system. The ignition lock (19) has three fixed positions of the key.
  • Page 47 The Speedometer (1) on the dash board has both a trip and total odometer. The trip odometer is reset to zero by rotating push-button (3) counter-clockwise. Note that the odometer reads in km rather than miles, although the speedometer reads in mph as well as km. The indicator lamps are also mounted on the instrument board: (2) -- turn indicator pilot lamp, orange;...
  • Page 48 • For the brakes: a 0.3 - 0.7 mm / 0.012 - 0.028 in gap between the brake shoes and the brake drums; for this purpose a 5 - 8 mm / 0.2 - 0.3 in play of the front brake control lever and a play of the rear brake pedal equal to about 25 - 30 mm / 1 in of the full stroke of the pedal are required;...
  • Page 49 Reassemble the twist grip in the following order: • set the throttle control twist grip on the handlebar and in the lower half of the body, having preliminarily lubricated the twist grip tube rotation • set the cable tips into the twist grip slider and lubricate the points of the twist grip tube rotation •...
  • Page 50 Repairing the clutch and brake control levers and cables Check the condition of control cables at every service of the motorcycle. Even if a single wire is found broken or the cable armour is damaged (seizing, extension, etc.) replace the cable. If the end ball of the control cable is disturbed (the tip slips off the cable), solder a new tip on, spreading the cable end wires apart prior to soldering to ensure the wires jam into the hole.

  • Page 51: Front Fork And Suspension

    2.3 Front Fork and Suspension Two different types of front suspension are available. The telescopic fork and the leading link type ("lever type"). Both types are carried in the steering head on ball bearings. Telescopic Fork The telescopic front fork is equipped with inside springs and double-acting hydraulic shock absorbers. The front fork (Fig.
  • Page 52 • thrust bearings, look for cracks, scores, pitting on the face. • oil seals, the working edges. Replace seals with worn lip. • front shield and covers, look for mechanical damage, cracks, etc. Renew the paint, if damaged or corroded. To reassemble the fork leg, lubricate the friction parts with motor oil and assemble in reverse sequence.
  • Page 53 Figure 2.3-1 Telescopic Front Fork 1 - Safety washer 2 - Seal 3 - Fork cross piece 4 - Steering column stem nut 5 - Supporting washer 6 - Spring washer 7 - Tightening bolt 8 - Steering column stem 9 - Bearing nut 10 - Top angular ball 11 - Tightening nut...
  • Page 54 Figure 2.3-2 Lever-Type Front Fork 1 - Protective washer 9 - Bearing nut 17 - Fork leg left tube 2 - Seal 10 - Upper radial-thrust ball 18 - Spring-hydraulic shock 3 - Fork crosspiece bearing absorber 4 - Nut of steering column 11 - Tightening nut 19 - Brake drum cover tie rod stem...
  • Page 55 Table 2.3-1 Rated Sizes, Positive and Negative Allowances Between the Principal Mating Members of the Front Fork, mm. Tolerated limits Positive allow. Negative allow. Part No. and Rate size No. and name of Rated size Name (shaft) mating member Min. Max.
  • Page 56 The steering head bearings must be adjusted periodically to avoid excessive play which might cause steering instability. When properly adjusted, the front fork should turn with just a hint of bearing drag, but neither free play nor obvious resistance to turning, with the steering damper relaxed. WARNING: Improper adjustment of the steering head (e.g.

  • Page 57: Rear Suspension

    • remove the bolts fastening the front fender (mudguard) to the leg covers and the steering column bridge • remove the direction indicator relay and fuse block bracket and the front mudguard • disconnect the wires from turn indicator terminals. As a precaution against damage, remove the turn indicator from the front fork •...

  • Page 58: Brakes

    2.5 Brakes The motorcycle is equipped with shoe type brakes on both motorcycle wheels and the sidecar wheel. The brake drums are integral with the wheel hubs. Each brake drum cover supports the shoes and actuation levers. All brakes are the same overall diameter, so all wheels are interchangeable. NOTE: When removing brake shoes make sure that they are replaced in the exact position they came from.
  • Page 59 Figure 2.5-2 Sidecar Wheel Brake The front wheel brake (Fig. 2.5-1) has double leading shoes actuated by separate cams. Tie rod (11) of the upper and lower levers of the brake is factory-adjusted to length so as to equalize the brake cams. To return the levers to their initial position when the brake lever is released, a spring (9) is installed on the bottom lever.
  • Page 60 Proceed to adjustment of the foot brake starting from the rear wheel, having first slackened the nut on the tie rod of the sidecar wheel brake. Then adjust the sidecar wheel brake by tightening the nut on the brake tie rod. After the foot brake has been adjusted properly, back up the nut on the tie rod of the sidecar wheel brake by 2 - 3 turns so as to preclude a sideways deflection of the motorcycle on braking.

  • Page 61: Wheels, Tires, Shock Absorbers And Springs

    2.6 Wheels, Tires, Shock Absorbers and Springs Figure 2.6-1 Motorcycle Wheel 1 - Tire 2 - Tire flap 3 - Spokes 4 - Brake drum 5 - Roller bearings 6 - Thrust washer 7 - Right-hand distance bushing 8 - Intermediate bushing 9 - Left-hand distance bushing 10 - Seal 11 - Seal nut...
  • Page 62 Tires are tube-type, using an inner flap between the spokes and inner tube to protect the tube from damage. Rim locks are not used in the stock configuration. Care should be taken to keep tires properly inflated. See Specifications, for correct cold tire inflation pressures. WARNING: Improper tire inflation will cause abnormal tread wear and could result in unstable handling.
  • Page 63 To remove the rear wheel: 1. Set the motorcycle on the stand, raising it up on blocks of wood to provide more clearance. 2. Remove the cotter pin of the axle slotted nut, unscrew the nut, loosen the axle clamp bolt on the left-hand side of the swing arm and remove the axle together with the protective cap.
  • Page 64 tires that have been tested by the manufacturer to ensure compliance with DOT requirements are available from Ural dealers. When tires are worn to a tire center tread depth of 3/32 in., they should be replaced. Correct tire inflation data can be located on the sidewall of the tires mounted on your particular model of URAL.
  • Page 65 WARNING: Do not use excessive pressure to seat a reluctant tire bead. Tires and wheel rims can suddenly explode if inflated beyond recommended pressures. A tire should seat with normal pressures when lubricated. If the tire does not seat, deflate it, check that the inner tube or rim flap are not captured under the tire bead, especially near the valve stem, and lubricate the bead again before inflating.
  • Page 66 2. Check bearing clearance by rotating and attempting to rock the axle. The axle should be free to rotate, with no noticeable play or abnormal noises. To adjust, unscrew the locknut and readjust it. CAUTION: Over-tightening of bearings or excessive bearing play will lead to premature wear of bearings.
  • Page 67 Figure 2.6-2 Spring-Loaded Hydraulic Shock Absorber 1 - Upper tip 12 - Fixed cam 23 - Compression valve stem 2 - Retainer 13 - Lower end piece 24 - Compression valve assy. 3 - Housing 14 - Compression valve body 25 - Piston 4 - Spring 15 - Rebound valve nut...

  • Page 68: Fenders

    2.7 Fenders All three URAL fenders ("mudguards") are of heavy gauge formed steel. Removal and attachment  should be obvious. Dented fenders may be hammered straight and repainted, using standard automotive techniques, although it may be more economical to simply replace the fender. When installing fenders, ensure that all fasteners are snug, to ensure that a fender does not drop down and jam into a tire during motorcycle operation.
  • Page 69 1. Remove the bolt at location #1 (one on each side of the headlight) which holds the headlight assembly to the fork covers. 2. Place the chrome mounting bracket on the outside of the painted fork covers, position slot #1 over location #1. 3.

  • Page 70: Chapter 3: Sidecar

    Sidecar Figure 3.0-1. Motorcycle and Sidecar Frames 1 - Rear suspension swinging arm 10 - Collet clamp 20 - Lever 2 - Rear mud shield 11 - Collet clamp screw 21 - Brake tie rod 3 - Rear grab bar 12 - Motorcycle stand 22 - Brake drum cover 4 - Spring loaded hydraulic shock...

  • Page 71: Description And General Specifications

    3.1 Description and General Specifications The URAL sidecar is a large diameter tubular steel frame with a trailing link swing arm wheel  suspension, to which is attached a body. The sidecar is rigidly attached to the motorcycle by two lower ball/collet clamps, and two upper adjustable struts ("legs").

  • Page 72: Installation And Removal

    3.2 Installation and Removal To detach the sidecar: 1. Set up the motorcycle on the stand. 2. Disconnect the plug-and-socket connector leading to the sidecar lamps. 3. Undo the nuts of upper bolts fastening the sidecar frame tie-rods to the motorcycle and extract the bolts.

  • Page 73: Sidecar Alignment

    3.3 Sidecar Alignment The sidecar must be aligned in a definite position relative to the motorcycle. The sidecar wheel is angled slightly towards the front of the motorcycle, and the motorcycle itself must be leaned out, away from the sidecar (Fig. 3.3-1). An incorrectly aligned sidecar will drag the motorcycle to either side , which not only makes the combination difficult to handle, but also causes excessive tire wear.
  • Page 74 1 lean out Adjust leanout by easing off torque on the lower collet bolts, loosening the lock nuts on the upper struts (the two inclined legs), removing the upper strut attachment bolts, and screwing the forked clevises in or out. NOTE: When making either toe-in or lean-out adjustments, make corrections in small increments, then...

  • Page 75: Frame/Attachment

    NOTE: Weight of the driver and sidecar passenger affects leanout, so lean-out must be adjusted according to the typical load that will be carried on the motorcycle. For example, ° if a heavy load is usually carried in the sidecar a slightly larger lean out (say 2-3 ) may be preferable.

  • Page 76: Suspension

    3.5 Suspension The sidecar wheel is carried on a forked trailing link swing arm, supported by a hydraulic shock/spring. The swing arm pivots in rubber "silent block" bushings attached with long bolts ("pins"). No servicing or lubrication of the swing arm is required, except for the shock absorber.

  • Page 77: Sidecar Body

    NOTE: If there is excessive play between the brake housing and torque tab, the brake will self-actuate when the sidecar rolls backwards. A metal shim can be fabricated to take up the play and prevent this reaction, if it the operator finds it an annoyance. 3.6 Sidecar Body The sidecar body is easily removed from the frame for repairing either the body or sidecar frame.

  • Page 78: Handling Differences Between Single & Dual Wheel Drive

    3.7 Handling Differences Between Single Wheel Drive & Dual Wheel Drive The driven sidecar wheel makes the Sportsman less likely to pull right when accelerating and left when decelerating. Turning left, especially when accelerating from a stop, is easier, since the driven sidecar wheel helps to pull the sidecar forward. Turning to the right from a stop is more difficult than the single wheel drive, since the driven sidecar wheel doesn’t create a drag to the right when accelerating.

  • Page 79: Driven Sidecar Wheel

    3.8 Driven Sidecar Wheel The URAL Patrol final drive is not exactly the same as the Sportsman final drive.  Unfortunately at this time, drawings of the Patrol final drive are not available. For this reason the following description of the Sportsman final drive is included in this manual to acquaint the owner with the general principals of the final drive mechanism.
  • Page 80 Figure 3.8-2. Sidecar Bearing Unit Ä Sportsman Model 1 - Swinging arm 6 - Ball bearing 11 - Bolt 2 - Braking drum cover 7 - Protective ring 12 - Shock absorber silent block 3 - Slotted hub 8 - Spacer 13 - Propeller shaft 4 - Sidecar pin 9 - Ring...
  • Page 81 The Sportsman is different from the standard single-wheel-drive Tourist motorcycle (IMZ-8.103-40A) by changes to the following units: A. motorcycle final drive B. rear wheel swing arm C. sidecar swing arm and hub D. addition of sidecar drive shaft and universal joints E.
  • Page 82 1. Remove the nut from the cover together with the sun gear and seal. 2. Tap lightly to remove the differential body with seal from the cover. 3. Remove the epicycle gear with two sets of rollers and seal and spacer from the case. 4.

  • Page 83: Fender

    3.9 Fender The sidecar fender is a formed steel assembly, with a wiring trough on the inside to protect electrical wiring. Light assemblies bolt to the fender at the front and rear. Light bulbs can be changed by removing the plastic lenses. Bulbs are standard automotive.

  • Page 84: Chapter 4: Engine

    Engine 4.1 Description and General Specifications The motorcycle is equipped with a twin cylinder overhead valve four stroke carbureted air-cooled engine. The horizontally opposed cylinder arrangement provides excellent engine balance, as well as better air cooling of cylinders and heads. Overhead valves are actuated by pushrods.
  • Page 85 Figure 4.1-1. Engine (longitudinal section) 1 - Flywheel 12 - Camshaft gear 23 - Packing ring 2 - Crankcase 13 - Timing gear cover 24 - Oil filter plug 3 - Camshaft bushing 14 - Front cover of crankcase 25 - Sump bolt 4 - Camshaft 15 - Breather 26 - Sump...
  • Page 86 Figure 4.1-2. Engine (cross section) 1 - Starter/Generator 15 - Adjusting bolt locknut 29 - Roller bearing 2 - Camshaft 16 - Rocking arm 30 - Crankpin 3 - Tappet 17 - Rockshaft 31 - Crankcase 4 - Tappet guide 18 - Cylinder head cap 32 - Sump 5 - Sealing cap...
  • Page 87 Figure 4.1-3. Engine Lubrication System 1 - Duct for oil flow to rear bearing 15 - Holes in crank pin for lubrication of 2 - Connecting bar and oil pump drive gear connecting rod big end bearing 3 - Duct in rear bearing housing for oil flow 16 - Oil supply duct to left-hand cylinder 4 - Calibrated hole for oil flow 17 - Inner cavity of crank pin...
  • Page 88 The engine has both splash and pressure lubrication. Critical parts are pressure lubricated by a mechanical oil pump. (Figure 4.3-1) A full-flow replaceable oil filter is provided in the lubrication system to prolong the engine service life. The crankcase serves as the oil reservoir for the engine. The single-stage oil gear pump (24) is driven from the camshaft through a gear and connecting bar (2).

  • Page 89: Repair Information And Service Limits

    4.2 Repair Information and Service Limits The repair of components which can be removed without removing the engine is covered in the appropriate sections. For inspecting or repairing internal engine components such as the camshaft or crankshaft, it is necessary to remove the engine from the frame.

  • Page 90: Cylinder Heads And Valves

    4.3 Cylinder Heads and Valves Valves are carried in the cylinder head by replaceable guides. Export model URAL  have special cast iron guides. Exhaust valves and intake valves are of different diameter. Figure 4.3-1. Engine Valve Timing Gear 1 - Push rod 13 - Lower retainer 2 - Push rod housing 14 - Outer valve spring...
  • Page 91 Valve Adjustment It is very important to adjust the valves properly. Valves are adjusted to provide the correct clearance with a cold engine. The clearance should be 0.002 in / 0.05 mm. In service, clearance will change due to bedding-in of parts. It is important to re-adjust the clearances after running in, following grinding or partial disassembly of the valve mechanism.
  • Page 92 4. Set the crankshaft at TDC (top dead center) so that both valves of the cylinder are closed, using either the kickstarter to turn the crankshaft, or crank handle tool 345- 316-3 if the gearbox has been removed. 5. Undo the fastening nuts and remove the rocker arms together with rockershaft brackets.
  • Page 93 3. Turn the lever round the stud and remove the valve keys from the other valve. 4. Remove the top valve spring retainers, the springs and the valve spring seats. 5. Free the cylinder head from the tool and remove the valves. 6.
  • Page 94 machine with a centering chuck to fit the valve stem for the purpose. In grinding take off only as much material as needed to remedy the defect. The cylindrical bead on the edge of the valve head should be no thinner than 1 mm. Measure the side play between the valve stem and the guide with the help of an indicator, the feeler pin of which should rest against the valve stem end with the valve moved 3/16 inch / 4 mm off the seat (Fig.
  • Page 95 If the valve seat cannot be restored to correct dimensions by grinding or is loose or damaged, change the valve seat as follows. Using the set of tools 345-326-3, 345-570-3 and 061-10 thread the valve seat bore, heat the cylinder head to 390ºF/200ºC, screw in the puller and press out the valve seat (Fig. 24).
  • Page 96 3. Remove the minimum amount of metal from the working chamfers to prolong the service life of the valve. Towards the end of the lapping process reduce the amount of grinding compound and then lap with clean oil only. 4. Once a uniform dull-gray color (with no black spots) is obtained on the contact areas of the valve and the seat, the lapping is considered satisfactory.
  • Page 97 If the adjusting bolt has been removed from a rocker arm, screw it back in to the limit, then fit a lock-nut. Push Rods Inspect push rods for wear straightness. If a pushrod is bent or the Fig. 4.3-6. Right Hand ends are worn, Rocking Arm Assy.
  • Page 98 .002 in. / 0.05 mm. Lock the clearance adjusting screw with the lock nut, rotate the engine through at least one revolution, and confirm correct clearance. Before installing the valve cover in place, lubricate the rockshaft through the central oil holes in the shaft.

  • Page 99: Cylinders And Pistons

    4.4 Cylinders and Pistons Removing Cylinders (The engine may be left on the motorcycle with the cylinder heads removed.) Required tools: • crank handle tool 345-316-3 for turning the crankshaft • clamping ring tool 345-037 for compressing the piston rings when fitting the cylinder To remove the cylinder: 1.
  • Page 100 Table 4.4-1. Repair Sizes of Pistons and Corresponding Sizes of Cylinders, mm Repair Size of piston No. of Piston Skirt Stamped index Corresponding cylinder size, mm 78.11...78.12 78.20...78.21 6601237-P1 78.12...78.13 78.21...78.22 78.13...78.14 78.22...78.23 78.41...78.42 78.50...78.51 6601237-P2 78.4...78.43 78.51.78.52 78.43...78.44 78.52...78.53 78.91...78.92 79.00...79.01 6601237-P3...
  • Page 101 NOTE: The normal service life of the piston rings usually exceeds 30,000 km of operation, provided that the motorcycle is maintained properly. Incorrect replacement of piston rings brings about wear of the Fig. 4.4-1. Pressing-out the Piston Pin rings and cylinder walls and will increase formation of carbon in the piston...
  • Page 102 Before checking pistons and rings for wear, decarbonize thoroughly and wash the piston rings. Inspect and measure the piston rings: • for side clearance between ring and piston groove • at several points around the ring for thickness ("height") • in the most worn-out points on the ring circumference for ring width ("radial width") Replace the piston ring if: 1.
  • Page 103 clearance of .003 to .004 inch / 0.08 to 0.10 mm measured between piston skirt and cylinder bore. Whenever changing pistons, both pistons should be compared for balance. Piston Pin Inspect the outside surface of the piston pin to reveal scratches, dents, metal (bronze) flashes, and taper.
  • Page 104 Caution: The hot piston cools off quickly, and can seize the pin before it is fully centered between the circlip grooves. Never attempt to drive the pin into position with force. Only very light taps against the mandrel are permissible in order to adjust the position of the pin between circlip grooves.

  • Page 105: Camshaft, Timing Gears, Tappets

    Camshaft servicing requires removal of engine from frame. Tappets may be removed with the engine installed. Removing and Reinstalling the Camshaft (With the timing covers, generator, both cylinders and all tappets removed.) Required tools are: • backlash indicator 450-182 for measuring the backlash between the teeth of timing drive gearing •...
  • Page 106 When inspecting the gears, whether used or new, pay special attention to the condition of their teeth faces, as even slight burrs and dents on a tooth will lead to noisy operation. Burrs and dents should be smoothed with a fine stone. If timing gears are out of tolerance, preference should be given to replacement of both gears as a set, as a gear set is selected at the Manufacturing Works (by the sound of their running).
  • Page 107 NOTE: Mark the tappets and the guides when removing them, so that each tappet and guide can be reinstalled in the same position. Having dismantled the parts, wash them, inspect, and make the required measurements. If necessary, change worn out parts. Check the camshaft contact faces of the tappets for wear or pitting, and check for cracks in the points where the tips are pressed-in.

  • Page 108: Oil Pump And Delivery

    4.6 Oil Pump and Delivery Removing and Reinstalling the Oil Filter To remove the oil filter from the distributor box cover, unscrew the filter plug and take off the filter together with the by-pass valve. Remove the filter from the plug end. Wash the parts, inspect them and change the oil filter, as required.
  • Page 109 CAUTION: Make use of tapered tip 345-317-3 (Fig. 4.5-1); when mounting the timing cover, so as to preclude any damage to the seal lip. Oil pump servicing When overhauling the engine or when oil pressure is abnormally low, check and repair the oil pump.
  • Page 110 Oil lines In the course of total or partial dismantling of the engine, especially when reassembling, pay attention to correct mating of the oil ducts and clean them properly. Also see that the gaskets do not overlap the holes, the joints are tight with no leaks of oil. In the event of total dismantling of the engine, check to reveal porous spots and pitting in the oil line of the engine crankcase.

  • Page 111: Removing And Reinstalling The Flywheel

    4.7 Removing and Reinstalling the Flywheel (With transmission and clutch removed.) Required tools and fixtures are: • wrench 348-801 for turning off the flywheel fastening bolt • remover 345-042-3 for removing the flywheel • wrench 19x22 for locking the flywheel in place To remove the flywheel: 1.

  • Page 112: Crankshaft And Connecting Rods

    4.8 Crankshaft and Connecting Rods The connecting rods are an integral assembly of the pressed-together crankshaft. The crank assembly can be repaired if necessary, but if there are any significant problems, such as a loose rod lower end, it will probably be more economical to replace the assembly than repair it.
  • Page 113 5. Turn the crankshaft to position the keyway of the flywheel facing up. Lifting up the front of the crankshaft will allow the rear portion to exit the hole in the crankcase (Figures 4.8-1 and 4.8-2). 6. If it is necessary to remove the rear bearing from the neck of the crankshaft, use puller 345-339-3.
  • Page 114 To determine the condition and fitness of the crankshaft for further service measure the following: 1. Wear of the connecting rod small end bushes. 2. Radial play in the connecting rod big ends. 3. Axial play in the connecting rod big ends. 4.
  • Page 115 1. Press off the worn-out bushing with the help of mandrel 345-333-3 using a hand press, and press in a new bush. 2. Drill two .118 inch /3 mm dia. holes in the bushing for lubricating the piston pin through oil holes provided in the connecting rod small end, roll the bushing into the slots of the small end and ream the bushing...
  • Page 116 The pointers of both indicators should deviate in the same sense, i. e. positive or negative (Fig. 4.8-5, 2 and 3). If the indicator pointers read different values (Fig. 4.8-5, 1), then determine the peak point on the crankshaft main journal (1 - left-hand journal), and, by clamping the crankshaft cheek in the vice, knock slightly against the left-hand journal (arrow A,1).
  • Page 117 Crankshaft Installation Install the new or rebuilt crankshaft into the engine crankcase, observing the following sequence of operations: 1. Press the bearing into the front housing with the help of tool 48-139-135 and the housing into the crankshaft aligning it with bolts relative to the fastening holes. 2.

  • Page 118: Crankcase And Covers

    4.9 Crankcase and Covers In the course of an overhaul or partial dismantling of the engine, check the condition of the crankcase and the engine covers. Pay attention to: • cracks or other damages • dents, burrs, etc. from the previous gaskets •...

  • Page 119: Chapter 5: Gearbox

    Gearbox 5.1 Description and Specifications The URAL gearbox has four ratios forward, and one ratio reverse (sidecar motorcycles  only). A foot shift lever is on the left side, and the reverse lever on the right side. A kick starter pedal on the left rear of the gearbox drives the gearbox to start the engine. The gearbox is bolted to the rear of the engine crankcase, enclosing a dry clutch.
  • Page 120 The principal parts of the gearbox are the split box with covers, the clutch shaft and the main shaft with gears and shift sleeves, the gear shift mechanism, the kick starter and the reverse gear engagement mechanism (Figure 5.1-1). The clutch shaft is supported on ball and roller bearings. The shaft is made integral with the gear rims of the 1 and 3 gears.
  • Page 121 Fig. 5.1-3. Top View Of Gearbox Figure 5.1-4. Kick Starter 1 - Return spring 2 - Kick starter shaft bushing 3 - Kick starter gear 4 - Kick starter shaft 5 - Pawl spring 6 - Spring pin 7 - Pawl 8 - Pawl axle 9 - Pawl release 10 - Kick starter buffer pin...
  • Page 122 Figure 5.1-5. Gear Shift Mechanism 1 - Gear shift pedal 2 - Pawl with tenon 3 - Return spring 4 - Ratchel 5 - Pawl crank with pin 6 - Lock ring 7 - Quadrant shaft spring 8 - Gear shaft quadrant 9 - Hand gear change lever 10 - Quadrant lock 11 - Gear change fork shaft...
  • Page 123 When the reverse gear is engaged, the intermediate gear travels with the bracket along the shaft and connects the small rim of the starting gear with the rim of the sleeve engaging the 1 and 2 gears on the main shaft. When the right-hand lever is turned to one third of its travel the gear shift mechanism is set to neutral position.

  • Page 124: Gearbox (Solo Motorcycle)

    5.2 Gearbox (Solo motorcycle) The gearbox on Solo (two-wheeled) URALs is similar to the sidecar models except it has no reverse gear. A hand gear change lever on the right side is connected directly to the shift quadrant. The 1 gear is engaged when the gear change lever is pulled back as far as possible, while by pushing the lever forward, the 2 and 4...
  • Page 125 Figure 5.2-1. Solo Gearbox (section through shafts) 1 - Starter spring 12 - Gear IV of main shaft 23 - Right hand cover of gear 2 - Gear IV of clutch spring 13 - Clutch crankcase case 3 - Clutch shaft ball bearing 14 - Main shaft sleeve 24 - Hand gear change lever 4 - Clutch shaft seal...
  • Page 126 Figure 5.2-2. Kick Starter 1 - Return spring 2 - Kick starter shaft bushing 3 - Kick starter gear 4 - Kick starter shaft 5 - Pawl spring 6 - Spring pin 7 - Pawl 8 - Pawl axle 9 - Pawl release 10 - Kick starter buffer pin 11 - Buffer plug A - Pawl engaged...

  • Page 127: Shift Mechanism Adjustment

    5.3 Shift Mechanism Adjustment Shifting problems can often be traced to incorrect shift mechanism adjustment. Before removing a gearbox for service, first adjust the mechanism. To prepare the motorcycle for adjustment of the gear shift mechanism (shift quadrant), put it up on the center stand on top of a flat block of wood, so that the rear wheel can rotate freely.
  • Page 128 wrench stops moving further after the “click” is felt. At this point you have correctly adjusted the stroke of the shift pedal for shifting from a lower gear to a higher gear. If you feel no click at all, this means that the shift pedal stroke is too small. You should screw out the lower adjusting screw, still pressing the rear of the pedal shift and continuing to rock the wheel until you feel a definite “click”.

  • Page 129: Gearbox Removal And Installation

    5.4 Gearbox Removal and Installation Tools: • Crank handle 345-316-3 • Tool 345-429-3 Gearbox removal without removing the engine from the motorcycle: 1. Remove the air cleaner and the battery. 2. Disconnect the adjusting bolt of the clutch control cable from the clutch engaging lever at the gearbox.

  • Page 130: Gearbox Disassembly And Reassembly

    5.5 Gearbox Disassembly and Reassembly Removing and Reinstalling the Clutch Release Mechanism (with the gearbox removed from the motorcycle) To remove the clutch release mechanism, remove the clutch release arm (if need be): 1. Pressing on the front end of the clutch release rod, remove the clutch release slider, the thrust ball bearing, the rod tip and finally the clutch release rod.
  • Page 131 Repairing the Speedometer Drive Proceed with inspection and repairs, when wear of teeth becomes obvious (the speedometer fails to operate even when the flexible shaft is intact) or in case of dismantling the gearbox in general. When repairing, change worn-out parts, paying attention to ease of rotation of the gearing and proper backlash in the toothing (with the flexible coupling flange stopped in any position, the driven gear should display a slight side play in the gearing).
  • Page 132 The mechanism thus removed should be washed and examined. If any damage or defects are revealed, disassemble it, repair and reassemble. Reassembly of the Gear Case Cover To reassemble the gear shift mechanism: 1. Place home the gear case cover with the split joint upwards. 2.

  • Page 133: Repairing The Gearbox Assembly Units And Parts

    5.6 Repairing The Gearbox Assembly Units and Parts Proceed with repairs when dismantling the gearbox in general or there are problems in shifting the gears. The general view of the gear shift mechanism is shown in Fig. 5.1-5. Note: When repairing the assembly units and parts of the gearbox, pay special attention to maintaining clearances within the limits set by the Manufacturing Works (refer to Tables 5.6-1 and 5.6-2).
  • Page 134 Tolerated limits Part No. & Name Nominal No. & Name of Nominal size & mating member size & Positive Negative tolerance (hole) tolerance allowances allowances min. max. min. max., Z101-04307 +0.025 Z103-04101 +0.150 0.025 0.140 Gear shift fork Gear case shaft -0.010 -0.050...
  • Page 135 Should any problems be revealed, dismantle the mechanism observing the following sequence of operations: 1. Undo the nut fastening the foot pedal shaft, mark the position of the crank arm on the pedal shaft, remove the pawl crank arm and remove the foot pedal; take the ratchet and the crank assy.
  • Page 136 Having removed the clutch shaft from the gearbox, wash it and inspect thoroughly. Check condition of bearings, gear teeth (wear, scores, pitting), the tightness of the 4 gear fit, and condition of splines. If any defects are revealed, dismantle the clutch shaft as follows: 1.
  • Page 137 Center-punch the pawl axle at both sides in two opposite points. Insert the shaft bushing pin with its thin end on the opposite side of the pawl and press it flush with the bushing. Make sure that once the shaft is reassembled, the gear turns freely on the shaft, and the pawl tooth fits securely into the gear ratchet tooth.
  • Page 138 10. Fit the bushing with spring on the kickstarter shaft and insert it into the gear case hole, making sure the end of the spring is captured by the bushing pin. 11. Using wrench 36X41 wind the spring counterclockwise by two-thirds of a turn, then align the holes and turn in the screws.

  • Page 139: Chapter 6: Clutch

    Clutch 6.1 Description and Specifications The clutch is a dry, double disc assembly, operated by a release rod extending through a central hole in the primary ("clutch") shaft. When the clutch release rod is relaxed, springs push the clutch discs together and connect the flywheel to the clutch shaft through splines in the shaft hub.

  • Page 140: Clutch Adjustment

    6.2 Clutch adjustment The clutch control lever (located left of the handle bar) should have approximately 1/4 inch (5 - 8mm) free play, measured at the lever end. The normal play of the lever ensures full engagement and disengagement of the clutch. If there is not enough play, the clutch may slip under load.

  • Page 141: Clutch Repairs

    6.4 Clutch Repairs To remove the clutch discs: 1. Insert a screwdriver into the slits of screws fastening the clutch pressure plate and with light blows of a hammer against the screwdriver butt end knock off the metal flashes from the screw slits. 2.

  • Page 142: Clutch Reassembly

    Repair If scores or dents are evident, change the clutch disks. When the holes in the intermediate driving disk are worn in excess of 1 mm, bore and ream new holes .48 to .49 in. dia. / 12.5 to 12.53 mm at a spacing angle of 30 degrees to the former ones. When the wear of the clutch pins exceeds .040 in / 1.0 mm, replace the pins as follows: 1.

  • Page 143: Description And Specifications

    Drive Shaft and Final Drive 7.1 Description and Specifications Power is delivered from the gearbox to the rear wheel by a drive shaft ("propeller shaft") and final drive with bevel gears. The drive shaft is connected to the gearbox via a flexible rubber collar that helps dampen torque impulses and a universal joint to allow suspension travel of the rear wheel (Figure 7.1-1).

  • Page 144: Removal And Installation Of Final Drive

    The final drive is a cast housing containing a helical bevel gear set that turns the rear wheel at a lower speed than the shaft. The casing also serves as a backing plate for the brake shoes, an oil reservoir and a support for the right-hand end of the rear wheel axle. The casing has an oil drain hole at the bottom that is blanked off with a plug.

  • Page 145: Removing And Reinstalling The Rear Swing Arm

    7.4 Removing and Reinstalling the Rear Swing Arm (rear wheel and final drive removed) To remove rear swing arm: 1. Undo top and bottom bolts securing shock absorbers and remove them. 2. Unbend the tabs of the "shakeproof" lock washers at the swing arm pivots and screw out the pins.
  • Page 146 2. Lay the fork on the hand press and press out one of the needle bearings, until the universal joint cross thrusts against the fork. The opposite needle bearing cap will protrude partially out of the fork. 3. Clamp the protruding portion of the bearing in a vice and remove it. 4.

  • Page 147: Final Drive Disassembly

    7.6 Final Drive Disassembly (with final drive removed from motorcycle) Dismantling and Reassembling the Final Drive (with the propeller shaft removed) Refer to figure 7.6-1. Fig. 7.6-1. Final drive Required tools are: • Replacer 345-320-3 for removing the radial ball bearing of the pinion •...
  • Page 148 5. Unscrew the nuts fastening the casing cover, remove the washers and by slightly knocking against the end of the driven gear hub, remove the cover together with gasket and the driven bevel gear in assembly with the hub. 6. Remove the rollers from the hub groove (45 rollers). 7.

  • Page 149: Repairing The Final Drive

    7.7 Repairing The Final Drive With the final drive disassembled, inspect the parts and measure the mating surfaces. By visual inspection, determine the condition of: • threaded joints (for damage to thread, rigidity of the joints) • oil seals • casing bushing, that serves as outer race for the roller bearing of the driven gear hub •...
  • Page 150 To fit the rubber seal on the driven gear hub use mandrel 345-810. Having completed the repairs and reassembled the final drive, check the gearing backlash and tooth contact. Backlash should be between .003 and .006 inch (0.07 to 0.16 mm). adjust it, if necessary, by inserted shims between the driven ring gear hub ball bearing and the casing cover wall and between the pinion and bearing in special situations.

  • Page 151: Final Drive With Driven Sidecar Wheel (Sportsman)

    7.8 Final Drive with Driven Sidecar Wheel To disassemble the final drive (model with differential): 1. Remove the two bolts attaching the propeller shaft fork to the sun gear flange and move the fork in the direction of the side-car giving access to the rear wheel axle nut. 2.
  • Page 152 Figure 23. Motorcycle and Sidecar Frames 1 - Rear suspension swinging arm 10 - Collet clamp 20 - Lever 2 - Rear mud shield 11 - Collet clamp screw 21 - Brake tie rod 3 -Rear grab bar 12 - Motorcycle stand 22 - Brake drum cover 4 - Spring-loaded hydraulic shock 13 - Brake pedal...

  • Page 153: Chapter 8: Electrical

    Electrical 8.1 Description and Specifications The electrical equipment of the motorcycle includes power supplies, auxiliary instruments, horn, lights, ignition, and electric wiring. Electric power is supplied from a storage battery and an alternator with a built-in voltage regulator. A single-wire negative-ground system is employed for wiring the electric circuits. (i.e.
  • Page 154 At least once monthly, check the charge of the storage battery. If it is low, recharge overnight with a 2A charger. Every 20,000 km, clean the alternator cover cavity at the slip rings end. Then blow through the alternator with compressed air to remove brush and copper dust.

  • Page 155: Battery

    8.3 Battery Battery Maintenance Keep the battery clean in service and lightly coat terminals with petroleum jelly or battery terminal lubricant to prevent corrosion. Do not over tighten terminal connections. The battery case can be cleaned with a solution of baking soda in water, which will help neutralize any acid residue.
  • Page 156 dilute the electrolyte, but will corrode anything near or under the vent tube. To prevent battery case damage and possible explosion caused by pressure build-up, be sure the vent tube is properly routed and not kinked or obstructed when it is installed on the motorcycle.
  • Page 157 Charge with 2 A current until gassing is evident in all the cells. Continue charging for 30 min. to ensure complete mixing of electrolyte, then disconnect the charger and let the battery sit for 30 min. Check the level of electrolyte after charging and top up as needed with distilled water only.
  • Page 158 Note: The easiest method to maintain the battery is to attach an automatic trickle charger which can be left attached to the battery full time during lay up. Battery Testing When there is a question about the suitability of a used battery for further service or whether an electrical problem is being caused by the battery or the charging system, the battery should be checked for ability to accept and hold a full charge.

  • Page 159: Alternator

    8.4 Alternator The alternator with built-in voltage regulator is turned by the engine camshaft driven gear. The field is excited by battery voltage. The alternator is rated at 14V, 35 Amps. Actual output is electronically regulated and nearly independent of alternator rotation speed.
  • Page 160 After installing the alternator, it must be adjusted for correct mesh of the drive gears: 1. Rotate the alternator clockwise to the stop (as viewed from the rear) then rotate it back .12 - .15 in / 3 to 4 mm (measured at the outer diameter of the alternator frame). 2.

  • Page 161: Ignition

    8.5 Ignition IGNITION SYSTEM The ignition system incorporates the power supplies, ignition coil, moving coil pickup, electronic amplifier, two spark plugs, a set of low and high voltage wires and the ignition switch. A contactless ignition system with electronic ignition timing is used. The ignition coil has two high voltage terminals, each supplying one of the cylinder spark plugs and operating in conjunction with the moving coil pickup.
  • Page 162 The ignition system incorporates the power supplies (storage battery and alternator), low voltage wiring, main switch, ignition coil, contactless timing sensor, electronic amplifier, high voltage wires and spark plugs. See Figure 8.1-1. The contactless ignition system (BC3) with electronic ignition timing is interchangeable with the mechanical points/coil system which is no longer available from the factory.
  • Page 163 Spark plugs US import URAL s have been EPA certified and delivered with NGK BP7HS plugs or  Nippondenso W22FP-U plugs. In certain situations such as cold starting, the plugs can quickly foul with carbon or soot. The engine should not be run on a fouled plug. The plugs can be cleaned, but it is easier to put in a new set of plugs when on the road.

  • Page 164: Lights

    8.6 Lights The lighting equipment installed on the motorcycle is listed in Table 8.6-1. Table 8.6-1. List of Lighting and Light-Signal Equipment Equipment Type Purpose of lamp Type of lamp bulb Lamp power, W. Headlamp Far reaching and bright light UA-H6024 45+40 Speedometer...

  • Page 165: Horn

    8.7 Horn The motorcycle is equipped with a horn which sounds when ignition is on and the horn button is pressed. The horn can be adjusted with an adjusting screw located at the rear portion of the horn body type C205B. Horn A single electric horn is activated by a push button on the left handlebar grip.

  • Page 166: Wiring, Switches, Fuses, Connectors

    8.9 Wiring, Switches, Fuses, Connectors Refer to Appendix # 1. Electrical wiring on the URAL is of adequate quality, but connections may come loose  or corrode, even on new motorcycles. When any circuit does not function correctly, visually inspect wire runs to ensure that there are no shorts to the frame, and check the related fuses, switches and connectors.

  • Page 167: Chapter 9: Fuel, Carburetion, Air Intake, Exhaust

    Fuel, Carburetion, Air Intake, Exhaust 9.1 Description and Specifications Fuel is gravity-fed to the carburetors through a manual valve in the bottom of the tank and via hoses. Carburetors are Keihin Seiki CVK type, with separate enrichment circuits for cold starting. Engine air intake is through a central air filter to flexible intake tubes ("pipes").

  • Page 168: Carburetors

    9.3 Carburetors For US import models, the current carburetors for 650 cc machines are dual Keihin Seiki 32 CVK -type carburetors, which have been certified for compliance with US EPA requirements. NOTE: Technical information concerning the Keihin Seiki carburetor is proprietary, and alteration of the carburetor system in any way would violate the E.P.A.
  • Page 169 Table 9.3-1. Carburetor Troubleshooting Chart PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTIONS Hard starting Incorrect use of enrichener Correct use of enrichener Clogged fuel filter. Clean filter. Clogged low speed fuel jets. Disassemble carburetor and chemically clean. Clogged vent in fuel tank cap. Unclog vent or replace cap.

  • Page 170: Air Filter

    9.4 Air Filter The air cleaner and intake pipes help remove airborne dust from intake air, and meter air intake for engine starting. The air cleaner is a single-stage paper element filter. The air drawn in from the outside through a paper filter before passing to the carburetors. Air Cleaner Maintenance As the air cleaner gets contaminated, its flow and filtering capacity is impaired.

  • Page 171: Exhaust Pipes & Mufflers

    9.5 Exhaust Pipes & Mufflers Most current URALs use separate exhaust pipes (“headers”) for each cylinder, with a separate muffler (“silencer”) on each side. Some models (e.g. Patrol) and earlier models use a two-into-one system, with a single muffler on the right side. The two-into-two system uses a crossover (“connecting”) pipe between the two mufflers.

  • Page 172: Ural

    10 REPAIR SUPPLIES 10.1 URAL Seals  SEALS MOUNTED ON MOTORCYCLE (Table 10.1-1) Part No. Description Location Qty. 7201025 Crankshaft seal and spring assy Rear bearing housing 6201124 Camshaft seal and spring assy Distribution box cover 7203207-A Clutch release slider ring Clutch release slide Seals of: 7203213-2...

  • Page 173: Substitute Parts

    List of North American Substitutes for Recommended Lubricants Name of lubricant Russian Grade Substitute Engine & Gearbox Oil M-8B Any premium grade SAE 20W/50 petroleum based detergent oil designed for air cooled engines. Final Drive Oil TAP-15B, TAD-17I Any premium grade automotive 90 EP gear oil. Industrial Oil I12A Any premium grade light lubricating oil.

  • Page 174: Chapter 11: Conversion Tables

    11 Conversion Tables When it is necessary to convert between Metric and US measurement systems, the following table may be used: When you know Multiply by To find mm (millimeters) 0.0394 in (inches) cm (centimeters) 0.3937 in (inches) m (meters) 3.281 ft.

  • Page 175: Electrical Symbols

    Electrical Symbols Diode The diode is a solid-state device which passes electricity in one direction only. Electrons flow through the diode against the direction of the arrow. Diodes typically use 0.7 volts to pass electricity. Push Button Switch When the button on the push button switch is pressed, the bar moves down to make a path for the electricity between the two contacts.
  • Page 176 damage due to the electrolyte boiling dry. Charging voltage of less than 14.25 volts will result in an inadequate charge delivered to the battery. Automotive batteries operate at 12 volts. This is not enough voltage to harm people in any way. However, the battery stores a huge amount of electricity in the form of electrons.

  • Page 185: Troubleshooting Guides

    Electrical Sub-Systems Troubleshooting Guide Turn on the master switch. Turn the ignition switch to the middle “on” position. Press the horn button. Did the horn sound? No - Go to step 2. Yes - Go to step 6. Check for 12 volts between the metal frame of the motorcycle and each electrical terminal of the horn.
  • Page 186 Shift the transmission into 1 gear. Did the neutral light extinguish? No - Check the wire that connects the transmission switch to the indicator light. Look for bare wire showing. Adjust the neutral switch if required. Yes - Normal operation of the neutral switch. No problem indicated. Lighting Circuit Troubleshooting Guide Turn the ignition key to the middle “on”...
  • Page 187 Yes - Check the wire from the battery to the ignition switch and the ignition switch. Replace as required. Does the headlight Lo beam illuminate? No - Check the fuses, headlight switch & sealed beam unit. Replace as required. Yes - Go to step 6 Move the headlight switch to the Hi position.
  • Page 188 Yes - Replace brake bulbs if required. Check front brake switch & wiring Replace if required. Go to step 14. Is the speedometer illuminated? No - Check the wiring on the back of the speedometer and replace the speedometer bulbs if required. Yes - End of lighting circuit tests.
  • Page 189 Remove the small wire with the automotive connector on the end from the rear alternator cover. Ground the connector on the wire to a metal part of the engine using a short length of wire if required. Did the red alternator fault lamp illuminate when you grounded the wire’s connector? No - Check the red lamp and it’s wiring.
  • Page 190 coil. If the problem follows either the spark plug or lead to the other cylinder, then replace the defective component as required. If the problem remains with one cylinder then suspect either the carburetor or valve adjustments. Go to step 5. Pull the spark plug from each cylinder and lay the plugs on top of the cylinder heads so that the threaded part of the plug makes electrical contact with the bare metal of the cooling fins.
  • Page 191 Check the electronic ignition assembly for any loose wires. The disk with the steel pins must spin with the motor crankshaft. The gap between the timing disk and the timing sensor must be .010 inches. Are there any visible problems? No - Replace the electronic ignition module.
  • Page 192 Turn off the master switch. Remove the heavy wire that leads to the battery from the stud connector on the starter solenoid. Hold it in your fingers so that there is no possibility of it touching anything metal on the bike!! Turn the master switch back on.
  • Page 193 Turn off the master switch. Remove the heavy wire that leads to the battery from the stud connector on the starter solenoid. Hold it in your fingers so that there is no possibility of it touching anything metal on the bike!! Turn the master switch back on.

This manual is also suitable for:

2000 utility2000 -10 series2000 sportsman2000 solo

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