Related Manuals for FoamFly XPG
Summary of Contents for FoamFly XPG
- Page 1 (XPERIMENTAL PUSHER GYRO) Instruction Manual Electric Parkflyer AutoGyro Designed By: Dan Schwartz Available Exclusively from: www.FoamFly.com 4077 WoodCreek Dr. Ypsilanti MI. 48197 © 2007 FoamFly.com...
- Page 2 With pilots and designers from all over. Please take pictures and videos of your XPG, and I’ll put them in the photo gallery. Feel free to drop by and see what all the other foam junkies have been building. There are free plans, and lots of tips and ideas as well as unique new planes that you won’t find anywhere else.
- Page 3 The wooden parts: Take a look at the parts layout sheets. Your kit will have two sheets of plywood, one 1/16” thick, and the other 1/32” thick. (If you bought the pre-rotator, you’ll also have another smaller 1/16” sheets) You’ll find the two 1/8” ply parts in one of the smaller parts bags. The layout sheets give you part numbers, so it’s probably best to only punch out the parts you’re using in a given step so that you can still tell what’s what.
- Page 4 Glue on the Blade alignment tab (P5024). Keep it lined up with the bottom blade support, so that the forked end points toward the hole. This will keep the blades lined up with the hub, but still allow them to fold back in an “emergency.” Blade finishing: ©2007 FoamFly.com...
- Page 5 Seriously consider coating the last 1/4” of the trailing edge of the blades in thin CA. It really helps to make them more durable. Finish the blades with Lacquer Paint, Dope, Polyurethane, whatever you can use to seal the grain, and make the blade a little more solid. I prefer the Lacquer paint, it dries quickly, and makes balancing a quicker easier task.
- Page 6 Drill small holes for the screws on the straps, and screw them into place. A short length of 3mm tube will fill the gap between the wire and the straps. iii) Bend a section of the 1/16” wire into the nosewheel shape. ©2007 FoamFly.com...
- Page 7 (1) Leaving about 1” of wire, make a Z-bend, and then continue down making the 45 degree bend, and then aside for the wheel, and so on, like in the pictures. (Those are 1/2” Squares) (2) Cut a small piece of the plastic tubing (about 1/4”) Cut or file a notch into the bottom half, so that the notch fits over the Z-bend in the wire, and the top half into...
- Page 8 The other end goes to the nosewheel arm, using one of the small adjustable connectors. Trim off the excess wire. iii) Make a z-bend in the other piece of .032” wire, and attach it to the servo arm using one of the small adjustable connectors. ©2007 FoamFly.com...
- Page 9 iv) Run the wire straight back to see where the rudder control horn needs to be. Once you’ve got a place picked out, make a slit with a knife, insert the plastic control horn, and Hot Glue Weld it into place.
- Page 10 10 might be a bit high for a first flight, but it’s okay if it’s steady. iii) Point the Gyro directly into the wind. Give the blades a twirl, or “wind them up” with one finger etc. ©2007 FoamFly.com...
- Page 11 iv) Hold full up elevator, the blades will spin up more easily. If there’s enough wind they might spin up all the way. Listen for the distinctive “swish swish swish” sound. When the Blades have spun up as much as they’re going to by wind alone, let off half the up elevator, and go full throttle.
- Page 12 The blades can be folded two on one side, one on the other and they’ll notch into place, making transport easier. I usually remove the blade hub with the blades on it for transport. Have Fun! ©2007 FoamFly.com...
- Page 13 Appendix: Pre-Rotator Assembly: Assemble the Pre-Rotator. (Silly question) Follow the diagram on the Parts Layout Page. Drill out the center of the plastic gear with a 9/32” drill. Remove the Prop Adapter (If it was already on there.) Slip the Pre- Rotator over the top tower until it sits flush against the arm doublers.
- Page 14 This takes a little practice, but leaves an unobtrusive glue joint that is incredibly strong. Quick and easy too! ©2007 FoamFly.com...
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