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B36LA & B36RA Woodburning Fireplaces
FIREPLACE OPERATION
WARNING: If a decorative gas appliance is used in the fireplace the fireplace damper must be
fixed in an open position. (See additional operation information in section titled "Operation Guide-
lines".)
Which Woods Are Best?
Each wood species offers something different in aroma or heat value, and you should consider
your needs and desires before building your fire.Softwoods, like pine, spruce, and fir are easy to
ignite because they are resinous. However, a fire built entirely of softwoods burns out quickly and
requires frequent replenishment. While a softwood fire is not too desirable for a long evening, it's
fine in the morning when you want quick warmth, or late in the evening when you want a fire that
will burn out before you go to bed.On occasion when a longer fire is desired, it's best to combine
softwoods with the heavier hardwoods such as ash, beech, birch, maple, oak and hickory. These
hardwood species burn less rapidly, with shorter flames, and produce steady, glowing coals.For the
most pleasing aroma, you'll want to burn the wood of fruit trees such as apple and cherry, or nut
trees such as beech, hickory and pecan. Such wood is generally more expensive, but a little com-
bined with other wood, goes a long way. Start your fire with a mixture of softwood and hardwood,
then add some fruit or nut wood for nostalgic aroma. Since most woods will not burn well when
freshly cut, the wood you purchase should be reasonably dry. The sizes you buy are dictated by
the size of your fireplace. Purchase logs that will fit when laid across your grate, and ask that the
larger, heavier logs be split. Kindling should be short, easily split lengths of softwood, lumber yard
or mill scraps, or twigs and branches gathered from your yard.
How To Build A Better Fire
The first three fires should be of moderate size to allow the fireplace to adjust and the bricks to cure
before being subjected to larger fires. First, make sure your room is well ventilated, your damper
open and the flue is unobstructed. Then make sure your wood is dry and seasoned. Unseasoned
wood burns poorly and coupled with poor ventilation or an obstructed chimney, leads to smoking
problems.If your fireplace is equipped with an outside combustion air assembly, open the com-
bustion air inlet by pushing upward on the lever located above the firebrick on the left side of the
firebox.
NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL
LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS TO START OR "FRESHEN UP" A FIRE IN THIS FIRE-
PLACE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS WELL AWAY FROM THE FIREPLACE WHILE IT IS IN USE.
USE OF THIS FUEL CAN CAUSE A SERIOUS EXPLOSION.
Prepare your fire by placing two logs on the iron grate or fire basket, and laying the tinder between
them. Tinder may be dry scrap paper, twigs, or bark. On top place a small handful of twigs or split
softwood kindling. Place more dry logs over this base. Keep logs close together, as narrow air
spaces between them promote better drafts, and heat reflected between adjacent surfaces aids in
raising and maintaining combustion temperatures.
You'll need a minimum of three logs, preferably four, to make a good fire. Add kindling and new
logs as needed to rekindle a dying fire. New logs should be added at the rear grate after raking
the coals toward the front. DO NOT OVERFIRE THE FIREPLACE. Overfire conditions may be
created by large amounts of kindling, building scraps, or other improper fuels.
Ashes, important because they form a bed of glowing coals, should only be left to accumulate
within an inch or two of the bottom of the grate. Excess ashes can be used to check a flaming fire;
or to "bank" your fire, cover the logs with ashes. A "banked" fire will hold glowing coals for 8-10
hours, thereby saving a fire for later use.
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