Operating Instructions - Axminster AWHBS350N Instructions Manual

Hobby series
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1. Make sure you have read and fully understood the
general instructions and safety precautions
that are printed in the preceding pages of this
manual.
2. Before connecting the machine to the supply;
check the tool for obvious signs of damage, paying
particular attention to the plug and the power
cable. Rectify or have rectified any damage you
discover. Check that the blade you are using is the
correct one for the job in hand. Change the blade if
necessary. Check the blade is not damaged; is clean,
sharp, tracks properly and is correctly tensioned.
3. Set the upper blade guide to approximately 12mm
(1/2") above the height of the work piece.
4. Check (especially on site), that there are no
foreign objects e.g. old nails, screws, small stones etc
embedded in the material you are about to cut.
5. Check that all accessories, tools etc., that have been
used to set the machine up, are removed and set
carefully aside or stowed away correctly.
6. Ensure the machine is switched off. Plug the power
cable into a correctly rated switched socket outlet.
If extension leads are being used, check these for
damage, do not use if damaged; if you are working
outside, check that any extension cables in use are
rated for outside work. Switch on. Allow the saw to
run up to speed.
7. Make sure that the material you are about to cut
is within the machine is capacity, and the cut you are
about to make is within the blades' capabilities, e.g.
don't try and cut a 1" radius curve using a 5/8" blade.
8. Make sure the blade is not in contact with the
material when you start the saw. Start the cutting
operation. Do not try to cut too quickly; the correct
cutting speed, if one could be so precise, would never
see the blade pushed back against the thrust be aring,
the saw would cut and clear the saw line at the rate
the work piece was fed into it. If you notice that you
require more and more pressure to effect the cut,
and the blade is in continual contact with the thrust
bearing, the chances are the blade is becoming blunt.
Check and change if necessary.

Operating Instructions

Do not let go of the work piece, if you have to change
your grip, make sure one hand is holding the material
at all times.
9. If you are cutting long pieces of material think
about sawing cutouts (i.e. a saw cut from the edge
of the material to the saw line) along the saw line
so that you can discard the off cuts as you progress
down the saw line.
10. Observe the old woodworkers' adage of never
allowing your hand/fingers within one handbreadth
of the blade.
11. If you have to cut very small pieces of material,
arrange or manufacture some form of 'shoe' to carry
the timber. If the work piece is exceptionally small,
find something to use as a sacrificial carrier and
mount the work piece on it with double sided tape,
or similar.
12. Remember to check the blade tension after a new
blade has been 'working' for 30-60 mins. The blade
will 'stretch' slightly when new.
13. Do not release the tension on the saw blade
when work is complete. The blades and the main saw
frame do not respond kindly to constant changes in
stress and tension. Only release the tension to change
the blade or if the blade is to be removed because
the machine is to be 'mothballed' for a lengthy time
period. (The blade in tension over a long period of
non-use will cause the tyres to develop 'flat' spots).
WARNING! IF THE SAW JAMS!
Switch off immediately.
Open the saw cut, either by pulling apart or driving
a wedge in close to the back of the blade. Try to
wriggle the blade free of the saw, if this is not
possible; check that the saw is free in the cut, start
the saw, allow it to run up to speed and 'cut out' as
quickly as possible. (The removal of the 'off cut' may
well prevent the saw jamming again if you resume
the original cut).
23

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