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CHECKING
TENSEONS
The
easiest
way
to
check
tensions
is to
sew a medium
zigzag stitch
on the fabric
you will
be using.
Use the
appropriate
type
of thread
and
needle.
Use different
colors
of thread
on
the bobbin
and upper
spool.
Sew
a line
of
medium
zig-zag
stitches°
The
bobbin
thread
should
not
show
on
the top of the fabric.
Adjust
the
top
tension
if
necessary
to
achieve
the
stitch
formation
mentioned
above,
This
tension
control
is
very
sensitive.
You
may
want
to
reduce
the
tension
towards
0 when
sewing
wide
stitches
on
soft
fabric.
This
reduction
of
tension
will
tend
to
eliminate
puckering
of soft
fabrics,
UNDESIRABLE
DESIRABLE
TOP SIDE
OF FABRIC
Fig
1
Fig
2
I
!
I
/
I
t
!
I
OVERCASTING
This
is one
of the
more
frequently
used
zigzag
stitches
in
garment
construction.
You
may want
to overcast
along
the raw
edge of each
seam allowance
or fold
the
raw edge toward
the garment
and stitch.
Fig. 1 shows
the raw edge finished.
Fig. 2 illustrates
the folded
edge stitched.
Stitch
so the needle
pierces the fabric
just
short
of the
outside
edge.
Raw or worn
edges of older
garments
can
be overcast
to prevent
further
raveling.
INTERFACING
DARTS
To
reduce
bulk
of
interfacing
darts,
cut
interfacing
down
center
between
dart
lines.
Overlap
cut edges,
matching
dart
lines.
Zigzag
stitch
along
marking
line
from
point
to
wide
end of
dart,
Trim
both
raw edges close to stitching.
21
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