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The easiest
way to check
tensions
is to
sew a medium
zigzag stitch
on the fabric
you will be using.
Use the
appropriate
type
of thread
and
needle.
Use different
colors of thread on
the bobbin
and upper spool.
Sew
a line
of
medium
zig-zag
stitches.
The bobbin
thread
should
not
show on
the top of the fabric.
Adjust
the
top
tension
if necessary
to
achieve
the
stitch
formation
mentioned
above.
This
tension
control
is very
sensitive.
You
may
want
to
reduce
the
tension
towards
0 when
sewing
wide stitches
on
soft
fabric_
This
reduction
of
tension
will
tend
to eliminate
puckering
of soft
fabrics,
UNDESIRABLE
DESIRABLE
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TOP SIDE OF FABRIC
Fig
Fig 2
I
/
I !
V
OV E RCAST[_t",_G
This is one of the more frequently
used
zigzag stitches
in garment
construction.
You
may want to overcast along the raw
edge of each seam allowance
or fold
the
raw edge toward
the garment and stitch.
Fig, ! shows the raw edge finished.
Fig. 2 illustrates
the folded
edge stitched,
Stitch
so the needle pierces the fabric just
short
of the outside
edge.
Raw or worn
edges of older
garments
can be overcast
to prevent further
raveling.
INTERFACING
DARTS
To reduce
bulk
of interfacing
darts,
cut
interfacing
down
center
between
dart
lines.
Overlap
cut edges, matching
dart
lines,.
Zigzag
stitch
along
marking
line
from
point
to wide
end of dart°
Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.
21
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