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TROUBLESHOOTING
IMPACT WRENCHES
TOOL DOES NOT RUN OR RUNS SLOWLY, AND/OR
AIR FLOWS ONLY SLIGHTLY FROM EXHAUST — This
condition is probably caused by insufficient air pres-
sure, contaminants blocking the airflow or operation of
motor parts, or a power regulator which has vibrated
to a closed position.
YOU SHOULD: Check the air supply for sufficient pres-
sure. Check the air inlet strainer for blockage. Pour a
generous amount of air tool oil into air inlet. Operate
tool in short bursts, in both forward and reverse direc-
tions. Repeat if necessary. If tool performance does
not improve, the tool should be serviced by an autho-
rized service center.
TOOL WILL NOT RUN, EXHAUST
AIR FLOWS FREELY. This condition is probably caused
by one or more rotor vanes stuck on ac cu mu la ted
sludge or varnish; motor rusted.
YOU SHOULD: Pour a generous amount of air tool
oil into air inlet. Operate tool in short bursts in both
forward and reverse directions. Lightly tap the motor
housing with a plastic mallet. Detach the air supply.
Try to free the motor by turning the drive shaft manu-
ally, if possible. If the tool remains jammed, it should
be serviced by an authorized service center.
SOCKETS WILL NOT STAY ON. This condition is prob-
ably caused by a worn socket retainer ring or a soft
backup o-ring
YOU SHOULD: Wear safety goggles. Detach the air
supply. Using external retaining ring pliers, remove the
old retaining ring. While holding the square drive with
an appropriate wrench, use a small screwdriver to pry
old retainer ring out of its groove. Always pry the ring
away from your body, because it can be propelled out-
ward at high velocity. Replace the backup o-ring and
retainer ring with correct new parts (see breakdown).
Place the retaining ring on a table and press the tool
anvil into the ring with a rocking motion. Snap the ring
into the groove by hand.
PREMATURE ANVIL WEAR. This is probably cased by
using chromed sockets, which are not designed for use
with impact tools, or worn sockets
YOU SHOULD: Stop using chrome sockets. Chrome
sockets have a hard exterior surface and a soft core,
which leads to a warped but very hard drive hole when
used with impact tools. Chrome sockets will wear
wrench anvils quickly and present a danger of splitting
or breakage which can lead to injury or death.
TOOL SLOWLY LOSES POWER BUT RUNS AT FULL
SPEED WHEN NOT UNDER LOAD. This condition is
probably caused by worn clutch parts, inadequate
lubrication, or worn engaging cam.
YOU SHOULD: FOR OIL LUBED WRENCHES: Check
for presence of clutch oil (where oil is specified for the
clutch) and remove oil fill plug. Tilt to drain all of the
oil from the clutch case. Refill the case with NAPA air
tool oil or that recommended by the manufacturer in
the specified amount. Also check for excess clutch oil.
Clutch cases only need to be filled 50%, and overfilling
can cause drag on high speed clutch parts. A typical
1/2" Drive oil lubed wrench only requires 1/2 ounce of
clutch oil. FOR GREASE LUBED WRENCHES: Check
for excess grease by rotating drive shaft by hand. It
should rotate freely, and excess grease is usually
expelled automatically.
TOOL WILL NOT SHUT OFF. This condition is probably
cause by a broken or maligned throttle valve O-ring, or
a bent or jammed throttle valve stem.
6-1151, 6-1153, 6-1153
YOU SHOULD: Remove the throttle assembly and
install a new o-ring. Lubricate the assembly with air
tool oil and operate the trigger briskly. If operation
cannot be restored, the tool should be serviced at an
authorized service center.
AIR RATCHETS
MOTOR RUNS. SPINDLE DOESN'T TURN, OR TURNS
ERRATICALLY —This condition is probably caused by
worn teeth on the ratchet or pawl, a broken or weak
pawl pressure spring, or weak drag springs which fail
to hold the spindle while the pawl advances.
YOU SHOULD: Have replacement parts installed by an
authorized service center.
TOOL DOESN'T RUN, RATCHET HEAD INDEXES
CRISPLY BY HAND— This condition is probably
caused by the accumulation of dirt or sludge in motor
parts.
YOU SHOULD: Pour a generous amount of air tool oil
into the air inlet. Operate the throttle in short bursts.
With the tool engaged on a bolt, alternately tighten and
loosen the bolt by hand. If the tool remains jammed, it
should be serviced at an authorized service center
AIR DRILLS
TOOL WILL NOT RUN, RUNS SLOWLY, AIR FLOWS
SLIGHTLY FROM EXHAUST, SPINDLE TURNS FREELY
— This condition is probably caused by a blocked air
passage or jammed motor parts.
YOU SHOULD: Check the air inlet for blockages. Pour
a generous amount of air tool oil into air inlet. Operate
the trigger in short bursts. Detach the air supply. Turn
the empty and closed drill chuck by hand. Reconnect
air supply. If the tool's performance does not improve,
it should be serviced by an authorized service center.
TOOL WILL NOT RUN. AIR FLOWS FREELY FROM
EXHAUST. SPINDLE TURNS FREELY. This condition is
prob a bly caused by a broken rotor vane or jammed or
broken gears.
YOU SHOULD: Pour a generous amount of air tool
oil into air inlet. Operate the trigger in short bursts.
Detach the air supply. Turn the empty and closed drill
chuck by hand. Reconnect air supply. If the tool's
performance does not improve, it should be serviced
by an authorized service center.
TOOL SEIZED. SPINDLE WILL NOT
TURN — This condition is probably caused by a bro-
ken rotor vane or jammed or broken gears.
YOU SHOULD: Have the tool serviced by an authorized
service center.
TOOL WILL NOT SHUT OFF — The throttle valve
o-ring has probably come unseated.
YOU SHOULD: Replace the o-ring (see breakdown) or
have tool serviced by an authorized service center.
AIR HAMMERS
TOOL WILL NOT RUN — This condition is probably
caused by a clogged cycling valve or throttle valve.
YOU SHOULD: Check the air inlet for blockages. Pour
a generous amount of
air tool oil into air inlet. Operate the trigger in short
bursts with the chisel in place and against a solid
surface. Detach the air supply. Tap the nose or barrel
lightly with a plastic mallet, reconnect the air supply,
and repeat above steps. If the tool is still seized, insert
a 6" piece of 1/8" diameter rod in the nozzle and
7
lightly tap to loosen the piston in the rear direction.
Reconnect air supply and repeat above steps.
CHISEL STUCK IN NOZZLE— This condition is prob-
ably caused by a deformed shank.
YOU SHOULD: Have tool serviced by an authorized
service center.
NOTE: DISASSEMBLY OF THIS TOOL BY ANY OTHER
THAN AN AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER WILL VOID
THE WARRANTY ON THIS TOOL.
SANDERS/GRINDERS
TOOL HAS NO POWER OR RUNS SLOWLY. This condi-
tion is probably caused by insufficient air pressure,
contaminants blocking the air flow, or speed regulator
that has vibrated to a closed or off position.
YOU SHOULD: Check the air supply at the compres-
sor and air lines to the tool for sufficient air pressure.
Check the air inlet strainer for blockage and make
sure speed regulator is in the open or on position. If
power is not restored the tool should be serviced by
an authorized service center.
TOOL SEIZED. PAD/SPINDLE WILL NOT TURN. This
condition is probably caused by a broken rotor vane,
jammed or broken gears, or seized bearing.
YOU SHOULD: Have the tool repaired by an authorized
service center.
TOOL WILL NOT SHUT OFF/RUNS CONTINUOUSLY.
The throttle valve seat has become loose or damaged.
YOU SHOULD: Replace o-ring or valve seat (see
breakdown for proper parts) or have tool serviced by
an authorized service center.
SANDS/GRINDS UNEVENLY. This
condition is usually caused by loose pad/disc connec-
tion or worn or damaged pad/disc.
YOU SHOULD: Check pad/disc connection, ensure
that connection is secure and tight. Replace worn or
damaged pad/disc.
Rev. 05/22/23
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