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Break‐In Fires
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This wood burning unit is constructed of heavy gauge steel and cast iron and is built to last a long
time. However, in order to ensure no excessive thermal stresses are induced on the metal
during the first fire, three break‐in fires should be burned, each one slightly hotter than the last.
These break‐in fires will not only help the stove body acclimate to the high temperatures of the
fire, but will also slowly cure the high temperature stove paint, which will ensure the high
quality finish lasts for years. Remember to open a door and/or window to ventilate the area.
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This stove has a single air control rod which regulates the wood burn rate; when the primary air
control slide is pulled all the way out of the unit, the stove will burn more slowly and put out
heat over a longer time period. Conversely, when the air control slide is pushed all the way in,
the unit will burn more quickly and put out a larger amount of heat over a relatively shorter time
period. Do not attempt to modify the range of air control adjustment for any reason.
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The first break‐in fire should be just a large kindling fire, getting the stove to about 300°F. Once
this temperature has been reached, allow the fire to die out with the air control open. The
second and third break‐in fires should be a bit larger, with some small dry splits added to the
kindling load. The temperature goal during these fires is about 350°F – 450°F; don't let the fire
get hotter than that.
Continuous Operation
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After the break‐in fires are complete, this unit is ready for continuous operation. When burning
the stove continuously, do not allow ash and coals to accumulate higher than the air hole in the
dog box. Excessive coaling is often a result of burning wood at too high a burn rate, and the coal
bed should be allowed to burn down before reloading the stove with fresh wood.
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Combustion air is delivered to the stove at two locations: The majority of the primary combustion
air enters the firebox via the air‐wash system which keeps the glass clean and feeds the primary
combustion flames on the top surfaces of the wood; some primary combustion air is feed into the
coal bed via the dog box hole in the bottom, front box of the stove. (This air is supplied from
under the unit.) Every effort must be taken to maintain the area in front of this hole free of ash.
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When loading the stove for a long term burn, it is most useful to rake a "v" in the center of the
coal bed, to allow the primary air bleed hole to push air all the way to the rear of the unit.
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After loading the stove with a full firebox of fresh wood, it is important to operate the unit with
the air control in the full open position to properly char the wood load and drive off the initial
moisture in the fresh wood. Once the wood has been properly charred and is completely
ignited, the air control can then be set to the desired heat output level.
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This unit also offers a new feature. When loading the stove for a long low burn, you can set the
air control damper to allow the unit to heat up and get a good burn going before the air is closed
off to the low position. Simply pull the rod out to low and turn it counter‐clockwise until
you hear a slight "click" (about a quarter of a turn). When it is ready the damper will shut itself.
This will work for low and medium low settings.
OPERATION
First Fire‐ Remember to open a door
and/or window to ventilate the area.
You may find it necessary to open
several doors or windows for plenty of
ventilation.
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