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Maintenance continued-
The anodes on this water heater are easily accessible from the top of
the heater making replacement simple and quick.
a.
Turn the water heater electricity off for the zone containing
the indirect-fired water heater. Flow water until the
discharge is cool or allow enough time for the potable water
to cool naturally. Connect a hose to the drain valve. Locate
the hose's discharge in an area where any remaining hot
water will not cause any damage or injury.
b.
Open the drain valve to flush any sediment out of the
bottom to the heater.
c.
Shut off the cold water supply. Make sure all hot water
fixtures and circulating pumps are turned off.
d.
Wait for water flow from the hose to stop. Remove the
anode using a socket of the appropriate size. Do not use an
impact wrench.
e.
Inspect and replace the anode as required. Use pipe tape or
sealant when reinstalling the anode.
f.
Close the drain valve. Open a hot water fixture to allow air
to escape. Open the cold water supply to the heater and
allow the tank to fill.
g.
Check your anode and drain valve for leaks.
h.
Turn the water heater electricity on for the zone containing
the indirect-fired water heater.
4.
Sediment (Annual, but harsh water quality may dictate more
frequent service)- Depending on water conditions, a varying
amount of sediment may collect in the tank. Levels requiring
service are indicated by a small temperature difference in the
supply and return lines (See also "Scale" below). Repeated
flushing usually clears such material. As a preventive measure,
water should be drawn from the tank at the drain valve until it
runs clear.
5.
Scale (Annual)- Hard water may cause scale to build-up on the
outside of the heat exchanger coil. A water softener will prevent
this problem (See also "Sediment" above). Symptoms would be
reduced recovery capacity or reduced temperature differential
between boiler supply and return lines. Repeated flushing
should resolve the problem.
To inspect or replace an anode:
31
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