Necchi EX100 Instruction Book
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Necchi EX100 Instruction Book

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  • Page 1 Instruction Book...
  • Page 3 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for household use only. Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. DANGER — To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1.

  • Page 4: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF COTENTS NAMES OF PARTS Buttonholes ..............28 Names of Parts .............. 1 Square Buttonhole..........28-32 Standard Accessories ........... 2 Using the stabilizer plate ........31 GETTING READY TO SEW Adjusting the width and density for buttonholes..32 Connecting the Power Supply ........3 Round-end and Fine Fabric Buttonholes ....

  • Page 5: Names Of Parts Names Of Parts

    NAMES OF PARTS Names of Parts Upper thread guide Bobbin winding tension disk Spool holder (large) Spool pin Hole for additional spool pin Bobbin winder spindle Bobbin winder stopper Bobbin thread holder/cutter LCD display Function keys Speed control slider Thread cutter button Knee lifter hole (applicable models only) Needle up/down button...

  • Page 6: Standard Accessories

    Standard Accessories Zigzag foot: A (set on the machine) Overedge foot: C Zipper foot: E Satin stitch foot: F Blind hem foot: G 1/4˝ seam foot: O Automatic buttonhole foot: R Buttonhole stabilizer plate Spool holder ( X 2) (large) (1 set on the machine) Spool holder ( X 2) (small) Additional spool pin Bobbins ( X 4) (1 set on the machine)

  • Page 7: Getting Ready To Sew Connecting The Power Supply

    GETTING READY TO SEW Connecting the Power Supply • Using the foot control Turn off the power switch. Insert the pin connector into the jack. Insert the machine plug into the power inlet. Insert the power supply plug into the wall outlet. Turn on the power switch.

  • Page 8: Controlling Sewing Speed

    Controlling Sewing Speed Speed control slider Sewing speed can be varied by the speed control slider according to your sewing needs. To increase sewing speed, move the slider to the right. To decrease sewing speed, move the slider to the left. START STOP Foot control...

  • Page 9: Large Extension Table

    Large Extension Table Attaching the table Pull the table away from the machine. Spread the legs of large extension table. Holding the table with both hands and slide it gently to the right. Adjust the table height Turn setscrews of the table legs with a screwdriver (optional).

  • Page 10: Machine Operating Buttons

    Machine Operating Buttons q Start/Stop button Press this button to start or stop the machine. The machine starts running slowly for the first few stitches, and it then runs at the speed set by the speed control slider. The machine runs slowly as long as this button is being pressed.

  • Page 11: Selecting Patterns

    Selecting Patterns Function keys and LCD Display q Direct stitch pattern selection keys You can select stitch patterns from 01 to 14 directly by pressing the corresponding direct stitch pattern selection key. A pattern number and pattern image along with an identification letter of the recommended foot are indicated on each key.

  • Page 12: Presser Foot Lifter

    Presser Foot Lifter The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot. You can raise the foot about 1/4˝ (0.6 cm) higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot, or to help you place thick material under the foot. q Presser foot lifter w Normal up position e Highest position...

  • Page 13: Adjusting The Needle Thread Tension

    Adjusting the Needle Thread Tension Straight stitch • Balanced tension The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two layers of fabric, as illustrated (magnified to show detail). If you look at the top and bottom of the seam, notice that the stitches are evenly balanced.

  • Page 14: Zigzag Stitch

    Zigzag stitch For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not show on the right side (top side) of the fabric, and the needle thread shows slightly on the wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric. See the illustrations for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust the needle tension as necessary.

  • Page 15: Optic Magnifier

    Optic Magnifier Use the magnifier to get a larger view of the needle area. Attaching the magnifier Hold the knob with your fingers and insert the pin into the hole in the bottom of the face plate. Push the magnifier up until it snaps to fit. Adjust the angle to get the best view.

  • Page 16: Changing The Needle

    Changing the Needle CAUTION: Turn OFF the power switch before changing the needle. Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel counterclockwise, and lower the presser foot. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it counterclockwise. Remove the needle from the needle clamp.

  • Page 17: Setting The Spool Of Thread

    Setting the Spool of Thread Horizontal spool pin Lift up the spool pin. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin. Attach the large spool holder, and press it firmly against the spool of thread so that the spool rests on the supporter.

  • Page 18: Winding The Bobbin

    Winding the bobbin NOTE: Set the speed control slider at its fastest position for bobbin winding. z Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle. q Bobbin w Bobbin winder spindle x Draw the thread from the spool and pass the thread around the bobbin winding tension disk.

  • Page 19: Inserting The Bobbin

    Inserting the bobbin CAUTION: Turn OFF the power switch or press the lockout key before inserting the bobbin and threading the bobbin holder. z Place a bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread running off counterclockwise as shown on the hook cover plate.

  • Page 20: Threading The Machine

    Threading the Machine Raise the presser foot. Press the needle up/down button to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position. CAUTION: Turn off the power switch or press the lockout key before threading the machine. z Turn the power switch off. Draw the thread around the upper thread guide.

  • Page 21: Needle Threader

    Needle Threader CAUTION: Turn off the power switch or press the lockout key when using the needle threader. Lower the presser foot. Raise the needle to its highest position. Pull down the needle threader knob as far as it will go. The hook comes out through the needle eye from behind.

  • Page 22: Drawing Up The Bobbin Thread

    Drawing up the Bobbin Thread After using auto thread cutting or threading the bobbin holder, you can start sewing without drawing up the bobbin thread. However, you need to draw up the bobbin thread when sewing gathering stitches etc. Remove the bobbin. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin again and rethread the bobbin holder according to the instructions on page 15, but leave a 10 cm (4˝) tail of the bobbin thread as shown.

  • Page 23: Basic Sewing Straight Stitch Sewing

    BASIC SEWING Straight Stitch Sewing q Stitch pattern: 01 or 02 w Needle thread tension: 2 to 6 e Presser foot: Zigzag foot A Starting to sew Raise presser foot and position the fabric next to a seam guide line on the needle plate. Lower the needle to the point where you want to start.

  • Page 24: Changing Sewing Direction

    Changing sewing direction Stop the machine and raise the presser foot. Pivot the fabric around the needle to change the sewing direction as desired. Lower the foot and start sewing in a new direction. Securing seam To secure the end of seam, press the reverse button and sew several reverse stitches.

  • Page 25: Using Seam Guides

    Using Seam Guides The seam guides on the needle plate and the hook cover plate help you to measure seam allowance. The numbers on the needle plate indicate the distance from the center needle position in inches and millimeters. q Center needle position The front seam guides are marked at 1/4˝, 3/8˝...

  • Page 26: Altering The Needle Drop Position

    Altering the Needle Drop Position The needle drop position can be altered for straight stitch patterns 01 to 05, 29, 30 and 38. Press the “–” sign on the stitch width adjusting key to move the needle to the left. Press the “+”...

  • Page 27: Straight Stitch

    Straight Stitch q Stitch pattern: 01 or 02 w Thread tension dial: 2 to 6 e Presser foot: Zigzag foot A For seaming garments, zipper application and more. Pattern 02 is used for seaming fine fabrics. Lock-a-matic Stitch q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 2 to 6 e Presser foot: Zigzag foot A...

  • Page 28: Triple Stretch Stitch

    Triple Stretch Stitch q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 2 to 6 e Presser foot: Zigzag foot A This strong, durable stitch is recommended when both elasticity and strength are necessary in order to insure comfort and durability. Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armhole seams.

  • Page 29: Zigzag Stitches

    Zigzag Stitches q Stitch pattern: 07, 21 w Thread tension dial: 2 to 6 e Presser foot: Zigzag foot A The zigzag stitch is one of the most useful and versatile stitches. It is used for overcasting, mending, appliqué, and also used as a decorative stitch.

  • Page 30: Overcasting With Zigzag Stitch

    Overcasting with Zigzag Stitch q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 7 e Presser foot: Overedge foot C Place the fabric edge next to the guide on the foot and sew while guiding the fabric along the guide. r Guide CAUTION: When using an overedge foot, make sure to set the...

  • Page 31: Double Overedge Stitch

    Double Overedge Stitch q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 7 e Presser foot: Overedge foot C This stitch is excellent for sewing fabrics that tend to fray extensively such as linens and gabardines. Two rows of zigzag stitches are simultaneously sewn over the edge to insure that your seams will not ravel.

  • Page 32: Buttonholes

    Buttonholes The following 6 types of buttonholes are available. w e r t y q Square buttonhole This buttonhole is widely used on medium to heavy fabrics. The buttonhole size is automatically determined by placing a button in the foot. w Round-end buttonhole This buttonhole is used on fine to medium weight fabrics, especially for blouses and children’s clothes.
  • Page 33 x Pull the button holder to the back, and place the button in it. Push it together tightly to the button. e Button holder NOTE: If the button is extremely thick, make a test buttonhole on an extra piece of the fabric. If it is difficult to fit the button through the test buttonhole, you can lengthen the buttonhole by pulling the button holder back a little.
  • Page 34 b Start the machine to sew the buttonhole. The buttonhole is sewn in the sequence as shown. When the buttonhole is finished, the machine will stop automatically with the needle in the up position. n Remove the fabric and place a pin just below the bartack to prevent accidentally cutting the stitches.

  • Page 35: Using The Stabilizer Plate

    Using the stabilizer plate The stabilizer plate holds and supports fabrics so it is helpful when sewing buttonholes over the hem of thick fabrics. z Attach the stabilizer holder to the buttonhole foot by inserting the foot into the channels of the holder. q Stabilizer plate holder w Buttonhole foot e Channel...

  • Page 36: Adjusting The Width And Density For Buttonholes

    Adjusting the width and density for buttonholes • Adjusting the buttonhole width Press the “+” sign on the stitch width adjusting key to increase the buttonhole width. Press the “–” sign on the stitch width adjusting key to decrease the buttonhole width. q Stitch width adjusting key NOTE: The buttonhole width can be adjusted from 2.5 to 7.0.

  • Page 37: Welted Buttonhole (Bound Buttonhole)

    Welted Buttonhole (Bound buttonhole) q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 1 to 5 e Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R A welted buttonhole is made by stitching a strip or patch of fabric to the buttonhole. Welted buttonholes are particularly suitable for tailored garments, but are not recommended for sheer or delicate fabrics where the patch might show through or add bulk.
  • Page 38 b Fold back each side of the patch to form buttonhole lips. q Wrong side of patch w Right side of garment fabric e Right side of patch n Press both folds with an iron. e Right side of patch r Wrong side of garment fabric m Baste both edges of the seam with a needle and thread by hand.
  • Page 39 ⁄0 The patch should be cut 1 to 1.5 cm (7/16˝ – 5/8˝) ⁄0 away from the hole. The corners should be cut rounded off as shown. e Right side of patch r Wrong side of garment fabric ⁄1 Place the facing on the wrong side of the garment ⁄1 fabric.

  • Page 40: Corded Buttonhole

    Corded Buttonhole q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 1 to 5 e Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R z Use the same procedure as the square buttonhole sewing. Set the stitch width to match the thickness of the cord used. With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord on the spur at the back of the buttonhole foot.

  • Page 41: Darning Stitch

    Darning Stitch q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 6 e Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R • Starting to sew z Pull the button holder q to the back. x Place the garment under the foot. Press the needle up/down button twice.

  • Page 42: Tacking

    Tacking q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 6 e Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F Tacking is used to reinforce pockets, crotches and belt carriers where extra strength is needed. • Start sewing Start the machine and sew until the machine stops automatically.

  • Page 43: Eyelet

    Eyelet q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 1 to 4 e Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F The eyelet is used for belt holes etc. • Starting to sew Lower the needle at the starting point and lower the presser foot.

  • Page 44: Zipper Sewing

    Zipper Sewing q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 1 to 4 e Presser foot: Zigzag foot A Zipper foot E Attaching the zipper foot Fit the pin on the zipper foot into the groove of the foot holder. To sew the left side of the zipper, attach zipper foot with the right-hand side of pin.
  • Page 45 Start sewing z Fold up the upper seam allowance. Fold back the bottom seam allowance to form a 0.3 cm (1/8˝) fold. Place the zipper teeth next to the fold and pin the zipper tape to the zipper opening. q Upper seam allowance w Bottom seam allowance e 0.3 cm (1/8˝) r Zipper teeth...
  • Page 46 v Close the zipper and open the upper fabric flat over the zipper. Baste the upper fabric and zipper tape together. o Upper fabric !0 Basting stitch b Detach the foot and attach it with the pin on the left. Backstitch across the end of opening 1 cm (3/8˝).

  • Page 47: Blind Hemming

    Blind Hemming q Stitch pattern: 23 or 24 w Thread tension dial: 1 to 4 e Presser foot: Blind Hem stitch foot G z Fold a hem with the wrong side of the fabric up to form a 0.5 cm (1/4˝) allowance. q Wrong side of fabric w 0.5 cm (1/4˝) (1) On heavyweight fabrics that tend to ravel, the raw...

  • Page 48: Button Sewing

    Button Sewing q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 7 e Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F r Feed dog: Lowered Lower the feed dog. Set the speed control slider at a slower speed. Set the stitch length at the minimum (0.2). q Stitch length (0.2) Match the holes of button to the horizontal slot of the presser foot and lower the foot to hold the button in place.

  • Page 49: Decorative Stitching Patchwork Piecing

    DECORATIVE STITCHING Patchwork Piecing q Stitch pattern: 29 and 60 w Thread tension dial: 3 to 6 e Presser foot: 1/4˝ seam foot O Zigzag foot A * The stitch patterns 08, 28, 40, 41, 43 and 62 can also be used.

  • Page 50: Shelltuck

    Shelltuck q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 6 to 8 e Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F Use a lightweight fabric (tricot, for example). Fold the fabric in bias as shown and stitch on the fold. Allow the needle to barely clear the folded edge to create a shelled edge.

  • Page 51: Fringing

    Fringing q Stitch Pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 6 e Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F Fringing adds a special touch on table linens and shawls. Choose a firm, woven fabric like linen where threads can be removed easily. Carefully cut the fabric on the grain.

  • Page 52: Cross Stitch

    Cross Stitch q Stitch Pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 6 e Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F You can make cross stitch designs with these patterns, in half the time it would take if embroidered by hand. Use a plain close woven fabric such as linen or wool flannel.

  • Page 53: Scallop Stitch

    Scallop Stitch q Stitch pattern: 50 or 76 w Thread tension dial: 3 to 6 e Presser foot: Zigzag foot A Sew the stitches approximately 1 cm (3/8˝) inside the fabric edge. Trim the outside of the stitches as shown. Make sure not to cut the thread.

  • Page 54: Stippling

    Stippling q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 6 e Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F A pre-programmed stippling stitch is a fast and easy method to quilt small areas. Place a quilt layer and sew. Clasp Stitches q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 6 e Presser foot:...

  • Page 55: Pintucking

    Pintucking q Stitch pattern: w Thread tension dial: 3 to 6 e Presser foot: Blind hem stitch foot G Fold a fabric with right side together. Place the folded fabric under the foot. Align the folded edge with the guide on the foot and lower the foot.

  • Page 56: Twin Needle Sewing

    Twin Needle Sewing CAUTION: Turn off or lock out the machine before changing the needle or threading the machine. Make sure to press the twin needle key before sewing with twin needle. Do not use twin needles other than one included in the standard accessories, otherwise the needle may hit the needle plate, foot or hook and break.
  • Page 57 Selecting the patterns Select the desired pattern suitable for twin needle sewing. Press the twin needle key. q Twin needle key The LCD display shows a twin needle icon and the maximum permissible stitch width is restricted to 3.0 mm. The needle drop position of straight stitches is restricted to between 2.0 and 5.0.

  • Page 58: Machine Settings

    MACHINE SETTINGS Machine Setting Mode In the setting mode buzzer sound and needle stop position can be set to your preference. Entering the setting mode Press the setting mode key. The LCD display shows the buzzer sound setting mode (01onoF). Press the upper arrow key to go to the needle stop position setting mode (02UPdn).

  • Page 59: Care Of Your Machine Cleaning The Hook Race And Feed Dog

    CARE OF YOUR MACHINE Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dog WARNING: Turn the power switch off and unplug the machine before cleaning. Do not dismantle the machine other than as explained in this section. CAUTION: Do not store the machine in a high-humidity area, near a heat radiator, or in direct sunlight.

  • Page 60: Problems And Warning Signs

    Problems and Warning Signs Audible signal The buzzer sounds when: Normal operation Invalid operation Pip-pip-pip Pip-pip-peep Buttonhole sewing completed Malfunction Peep Warning sign Cause Try this The machine will not sew with the start/ Disconnect the foot control and start the stop button because the foot control is machine.

  • Page 61: Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting Reference Condition Cause The needle thread 1. The needle thread is not threaded properly. See page 16 breaks. 2. The needle thread tension is too tight. See page 9, 10 3. The needle is bent or blunt. See page 12 4.

  • Page 62: Stitch Chart

    Stitch Chart * Stitch patterns shaded in light grey can be used for the twin needle sewing (refer to page 52).
  • Page 64 809-800-881(ENG)

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