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in the castor arms.
5.
Secure the ball-joint mounts to the castor arms with capscrews,
flatwashers and flange nuts. Position the flatwashers to the
outside of the castor arm.
REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT (Fig 11–13)
The blade drive belt, tensioned by the stationary idler pulley, is very
durable. However, after many hours of use, the belt will show signs
of wear. Signs of a worn belt are: squealing when the belt is rotat-
ing, blades slipping when cutting grass, frayed edges, burn marks
and cracks. Replace the belt if any of these conditions are evident.
1.
Lower the cutting unit to the shop floor. Remove the belt cov-
ers from the top of the cutting unit and set the covers aside.
2.
Loosen the flange nut securing the idler pulley to the deck.
Move the pulley away from the belt to release belt tension.
3.
Remove the carriage bolts and flange nuts securing the gear
box plate to the deck. Lift the gear box plate and the gear box
off the deck and lay them on top of the deck.
4.
Remove the old belt from around the spindle pulleys and idler
pulley.
5.
Route the new belt around the spindle pulleys and idler pulley
assembly, as shown in Figure 13.
6.
Reposition the gear box plate on the deck while routing the
belt around the gear box pulley. Mount the gear box plate to
the deck with carriage bolts and flange nuts previously
removed.
7.
Using approximately 50 lbs. of force, slide the idler pulley
against the belt.
8.
Hold the pulley in position and tighten the nut.
9.
Reinstall the belt covers.
SERVICING THE FRONT BUSHINGS IN
THE CASTOR ARMS (Fig 14)
The castor arms have bushings pressed into the top and bottom of
the tube and after many hours of operation, the bushings will wear.
To check the bushings, move the castor fork back and forth and
16
Figure 11
1.
Idler pulley
Figure 12
1.
Gear box plate
2.
Capscrews & nuts
Figure 13
Belt Routing
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