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Fig. Y
When cutting anything larger than a 2 x 8 (51 x 203 mm [2 x 6 (51 x 152) at 45º miter]) use an
out-down-back motion with the rail lock knob
the saw head down toward the workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete the cut.
Do not allow the saw to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run
toward you, possibly causing personal injury or damage to the workpiece.
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each
piece is held firmly against the table and fence.
nOTE: To provide greater crosscut capacity with reduced stroke, the blade on the saw extends
deeper into the table. As a result, a greater lifting force on the workpiece may be experienced
during the cut.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury, if your hands are required to be within 4" (100 mm) of the blade
during the cut.
nOTE: The rail lock knob
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shown in Figure A must be loose to allow the saw to slide along
its rails.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often
45º for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50º left or 60° right. Make the cut as
described above.
When performing a miter cut on workpieces wider than a 2 x 6 that are shorter in length, always
place the longer side against the fence.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle as close as possible.
Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to determine
which direction to adjust the miter angle and recut. This will take some practice, but it is a
commonly used technique.
Bevel Cuts
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade leaning at an angle to the wood. In order to
set the bevel, loosen the bevel lock (
, Fig. A), and move the saw to the left or right as desired.
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(It is necessary to move the fence to allow clearance.) Once the desired bevel angle has been set,
tighten the bevel lock firmly. Refer to the Features and Controls section for detailed instructions
on the bevel system.
Bevel angles can be set from 49º right to 49º left and can be cut with the miter arm set between
50º left or 60º right. At some extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to be
removed. To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the fence adjustment knob several turns and
slide the fence out.
nOTE: Refer to Fence Adjustment in the Adjustments section for important information on
adjusting the fences for certain bevel cuts.
Quality of Cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut,
blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting; clamp it securely in place. Always
let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape
on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and
select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to saw Blades under Accessories.
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loosened. Pull the saw out, toward you, lower
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Non-Through-Cutting (Grooving and Rabbeting)
Instructions in the Crosscuts, Bevel Cuts and Cutting Compound Miters sections are for cuts
made through the full thickness of the material. The saw can also perform non-through cuts to
form grooves or rabbets in the material.
Groove Cut (Fig. A)
Refer to Depth Stop for detailed instructions for setting Hold the wood firmly on the table
and against the fence
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. Align the cut area underneath the blade. Position the saw arm fully
forward, with blade in down position. Turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch
in Figure A. Smoothly, push saw arm rearward to cut a groove through the workpiece.
Release the trigger switch with the saw arm down. When saw blade has completely stopped,
raise the saw arm. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising the arm.
To widen the groove, repeat steps 1–4 until the desired width is obtained.
Clamping the Workpiece
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the
saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable
surface. Personal injury may occur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the
clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw – not to any other part of
the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury, if your hands are required to be within 4" (100 mm) of the blade
during the cut.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand (irregular shape,
etc.), or your hand would be less than 4" (100 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must
be used.
Use the material clamp provided with your saw. To purchase the material clamp, contact your
local retailer or D
WALT service center.
e
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes
and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make a dry
run before making the cut. The left or right fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping.
To Install Clamp
1. Insert it into the hole (
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, Fig. A) behind the fence. The clamp should be facing toward the
back of the miter saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base.
Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the base of the miter saw. If the groove is visible, the
clamp will not be secure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the miter saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly
clamp the workpiece.
nOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY
RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE
CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
Support for Long Pieces
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn tool off and remove
the battery packs or power supply before transporting, making any adjustments,
cleaning, repairing, or removing/installing attachments or accessories. An accidental
start-up can cause injury.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension, as additional support for a
workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or pull
the workpiece.
For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support to extend the table width of your saw,
available from your dealer at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any convenient means
such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other Four-Sided
Projects (Fig. Z, AA)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple
projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure Z. Sketch 1 in
Figure AA shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two
boards at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero
position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with the broad
flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made by
mitering right and left with the broad surface against the fence.
2
shown
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