Table of Contents
Advertisement
Pump
Servicing
Read the following instructions
carefully before replacing any
parts. Reasonable care and safe
methods should be practiced.
Check
local
codes
requirements before installation.
Only
competent
should make the installations.
Servicing should be performed
only by knowledgeable pump
service contractors or authorized
service stations.
1. WARNING: Always disconnect
the pump from power source
before handling or making any
adjustments. Always wear
rubber boots when there is
water on the floor and you
must unplug the pump.
2. Before removing pump from
sump for repair, check if the
trouble could simply be a
blown fuse, tripped circuit
breaker, or a power cord
not completely inserted into
the receptacle.
3. NOTE: Automatic thermal
overload protects the sealed-
in-oil motor. Running dry will
overheat
the
motor
activate the overload protector
until the unit cools.
4. If the unit is being operated
by the optional float control or
diaphragm switch, unplug the
pump from the piggyback
receptacle and plug the pump
directly into the power source.
If the pump starts each time it
is plugged directly into the
receptacle and does not start
each time when plugged into
the piggyback switch with the
float
raised
up
diaphragm switch pressed in)
4
to a start position, replace the
complete piggyback switch
assembly and retest with
new assembly.
5. If pump fails the above two
steps, unplug and pull the
pump from the sump by the
handle. Sandblast, if possible,
any
the outside of the pump
and
before proceeding.
6. Check for an obstruction in the
electrician
impeller cavity by laying the
pump on its side and removing
the screws (10) to remove the
plastic base and bottom plate
(12 & 13). If the impeller does
not rotate freely, clear the
impeller and cavity walls
before reassembling the base.
Repeat Step 4.
7. Air Locking: A sump pump is
said to be air locked if air traps
in the pump and it cannot get
out, thus preventing pump from
operation. Hydromatic sump
pumps have a small air vent
hole in the impeller cavity to let
out trapped air. If the hole
becomes plugged, pump may
air lock. To break the air lock,
use a small screwdriver to
clear the hole in the impeller
cavity.
precaution in installations of
this type –
drilled in the discharge pipe
and
below
The check valve should be
12 to 18 inches above pump
discharge. Do not put check
valve directly into pump
discharge opening.
NOTE: In sumps where the
pump is operating daily, air
locking rarely occurs.
8. If the above tests have not
resolved the problem, the
(or
the
problem may be in the
dirt
or
trash
from
As
a
secondary
1
⁄
" hole should be
8
the
check
valve.
electrical components of the
pump. Starting with the power
cord, inspect for cuts or nicks
in the insulation. If the cord is
damaged, it must be replaced!
9. Using an ohmmeter, check
the resistance of the motor
windings by connecting one
lead clip to each electric flat
prong on the power cord plug.
The ohmmeter should be on
R x 1 setting.
To check for ground, place the
ohmmeter on R x 100k,
connect one lead clip to the
round
ground
the power cord and touch the
other lead clip to each flat
prong individually. If the
reading is other than infinity
(on the ohmmeter scale),
a leakage through stator
insulation or moisture in the
windings is occurring and the
pump must be replaced.
Pump
Troubleshooting
WARNING: Before handling
these pumps and controls,
always
disconnect
power first.
Do not smoke or use sparkable
electrical devices or flames in a
septic (gaseous) or possible
septic sump.
Pump does not run or hum.
1. Line circuit breaker may be
off, blown or loose.
2. Water level in sump may be
too low. Run in more water.
Turn-on level is 12 to 13
inches above sump bottom.
3. Pump and/or switch cord plug
may not be making contact
in receptacle.
prong
on
the
Advertisement
Table of Contents
