Ripping; Top Side Rabbeting; Top Side Molding - Craftsman 113.19771 Owner's Manual

Io-inch radial saw
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additional
safety
instructions
for radial saws
removed
from
the
saw
arbor
before
using
the
Therefore,
rip with
the finished
side down
(next
to
accessory
shaft
(rear end of the saw motor).
NEVER
the table)
and be especially
attentive
to following
operate
the saw with
cutting
tools
iincluding
sanding
accessories)
installed
on both
ends of the saw arbor.
(B} RIPPING
Ripping
is cutting
with
the grain or the tong way of the
board
-
it
is performed
by
pushing
the
workpiece
along
the
fence
and
thru
the
sawblade
(sawblade
parallel
to the fence).
1.
Never
apply
the
feed
force
to the section
of the
workpiece
that will
become
the cut-off
(free) piece.
Feed
force
when
ripping
must
always
be applied
between
the saw
blade
and
the
fence
. . . use a
"PUSH
STICK"
(see pg. 26) for
narrow
or short
work.
2.
Whenever
possible,
use the
in-rip
position
-
this
provides
minimum
obstruction
for feeding
by hand
or push stick
as appropriate.
3.
Do
not
release
the workpiece
before
operation
is
complete
-
push the workpiece
atl the way past the
rear (outfeed
or exit)
of the sawblade.
4.
Make
sure
by trial
before
starting
the cut that
the
antikickback
pawls will
stop
a kickback
once it has
started.
Keep points
of pawls SHARP!
5.
Use
a push
stick
when
ripping
short
(under
12
inches)
or narrow
(under
6 inches wide) workpieces.
6.
CAUTION:
Never
reposition
the
Guard
or
antikickback
with power "ON".
7.
A "KICKBACK"
occurs
during
a rip-type
operation
when
a part or all of the workpiece
is thrown
back
violently
toward
the operator.
It can occur
when
the workpiece
closes in on the rear (outfeed
side) of
the
sawblade
(pinching),
binds
between
the fence
and
the
sawblade
(heel),
or
is grabbed
by
the
sawblade
teeth
(wrong-way
feed)
at the
outfeed
side.
"PINCHING"
is
generally
avoided
by
utilization
of the spreader,
and a sharp sawblade
of
the
correct
type
for
the
workpiece
being
cut.
"HEEL"
can
be
avoided
by
maintaining
the
sawblade
exactly
parallel
to the fence.
Grabbing
by
the
sawblade
teeth
can
be caused
by
heel or
by
feeding
from
the wrong
direction
(see "DANGER"
warning
on
guard)
-
it
can
be
avoided
by
maintaining
parallelism
of
sawblade
to
fence,
feeding
into
the
sawblade
from
the
nose
of
the
guard
only,
by
positioning
the
spreader
and
antikickback
properly,
and
keeping
the workpiece
clown on the table and against
the fence.
8.
Position
the
nose
of
the
guard
to
just
clear
the
workpiece,
and
position/adjust
the
antikickback
and spreader
devices as instructed.
9.
NEVER
cut
more
than
one
piece
at a time
by
stacking
workpieces
vertically.
10. NEVER
feed a workpiece
thru
the saw with
another
piece
(butting
second
piece against
trailing
edge of
piece being cut),
even if of the same thickness.
Feed
each workpiece
individually
thru
the sawblade,
and
completely
beyond
the sawblade,
before
ripping
the
next
workpiece.
Use push stick
if the rip cut is less
than
6'" wide.
1 1, DO NOT pul! the workpiece
thru
the sawblade
- position
your
body
at the nose (in-feed)
side of the
guard:
start
and complete
the cut from
that same
side. This will
require
added
table support
for long
pieces.
12. Plastic
and composition
(like
hardboard)
materials
may
be cut
on your
saw.
However,
since
these are
usually
quite
hard
and
slippery,
the antikickback
pawls may not stop a kickback.
proper
set-up
and cutting
procedures.
Do not stand,
or
permit
anyone
else
to
stand,
in
line
with
a
potential
kickback.
13. When
sawing
1/4"
or thinner
materials,
follow
at!
normal
ripping
procedures
except
set sawblade
into
table
top
at least
1/8".
DO NOT
let go of or stop
feeding
the workpiece
between
the blade and fence
until
you
have
pushed
it
completely
past
the
antikickbaek
pawls.
Otherwise
the workpiece
could
get into
the back
of the sawblade
and be thrown
violently
from
the saw in the direction
opposite
to
the
feed
direction.
This
is the same
action
that
would
occur
if the
instructions
of the DANGER
warning
on the guard
is aborted.
Do not stand,
or
permit
anyone
else to stand,
in line with
the path of
a workpiece
that
may
be thrown
from
the saw in
this manner.
14. Position
the saw so neither
you,
a helper,
or a casuat
observer
is
forced
to
stand
in
line
with
the
sawblade.
15. Use extra
care when ripping
wood
that has a twisted
grain
or is twisted
or bowed
it may
rock
on the
table and/or
pinch
the sawblade.
16. Shaping
of wood
with
a dado
head
or a molding
head
can
be performed
"top-side"
(cutting
tool
basically
vertical
and employing
sawblade
guard},
or
"edge"
(saw arbor
vertical
-- cutting
tool
horizontal
-
and
employing
the
Accessory
molding
head
guard).
Ploughing
(Grooving
with
the grain)
Top side rabbeting
Top side molding
(shaping)...
17.
18.
resawing,
gaining,
coving,
with
the
grain,
are
examples
of rip-type
cuts,
The
same
basic
setup
procedures
including
rotation
of
the
guard
and
adjusting
and
positioning
of
the
AKB/Spreader
device
as
for
in-rip
or
out-rip
cutting,
apply.
However,
since
none
of these
operations
involve
thru-sawing
(sawing
through
the workpiece),
there
is no kerf.
Therefore
the spreader
and AKB
pawls
can
only
be
lowered
to
a position
where
the
spreader
just clears the workpiece.
CAUTION:
The
AKB/Spreader
device
will
not
stop a kickback
in this position,
but will act as a
holddown
and as a guard of the out-feed
side of
the sawblade.
For rip
or rip-type
cuts, the following
end of a
workpiece
to which a push stick
or push board
is
applied
must
be
square
(perpendicular
to
the
fence)
in order
that feed
pressure
applied
to the
workpiece
by the push
stick
or
block
does
not
cause the workpiece
to come away from
the fence,
and possibly cause a kickback.
During
rip and rip type
cuts, the workpiece
must
be held down
on the table
and against
the fence
with a push stick,
push block,
or featherboards.
A
featherboard
is made of solid
lumber
per sketch.

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