Delta RT-40 Instruction Manual page 21

RIPPINg
Ripping (Fig. 59) is cutting lengthwise through a board. The
rip fence (A) is used to position and guide the work. One
edge of the work rides against the rip fence while the flat
side of the board rests on the table.
You must use the saw blade guard. On
delta saws, the guard has anti-kickback pawls to
prevent kickback, and a splitter to prevent the wood
kerf from closing and binding the blade. Be sure to
replace or sharpen the anti-kickback devices when the
points become dull.
Always use a rip fence for ripping operations.
NEVER perform a ripping operation free-hand. Always
lock the fence to the rail.
The workpiece must have a straight edge
against the fence, and must not be warped, twisted or
bowed.
1. Before starting the cut, raise the blade so that it is about
1/8" (3.2mm) higher than the top of the workpiece. Start
the motor and advance the work, holding it down and
against the fence. Never stand in the line of the saw cut
when ripping. When the rip width is 6 inches or wider,
hold the work with both hands and push it along the
fence and into the saw blade (Fig. 59). Feed force when
ripping should always be applied between the saw blade
and the fence. Never pull the workpiece from the back
of the saw. The work should then be fed through the
saw blade with the right hand. Keep pressure on the
workpiece against the fence and down on the saw table.
Ensure that you have adequate outfeed support for the
workpiece and kEEP YOUR HANdS AWAY FROM
THE SAW BLAdE.
2. When the workpiece is past the blade, the work
will either stay on the table or tilt up slightly and be
caught by the end of the guard. Alternately, the feed
will continue to the end of the table, and be lifted and
brought along the outside edge of the fence. When
ripping boards longer than three feet, use a work
support at the rear of the saw to keep the workpiece
from falling off the saw table.
3. If the size or shape of the workpiece would cause your
hands to be within six inches of the saw blade, use a
push stick to complete the cut (Fig. 60) The push stick
can easily be made from scrap material as explained in
the section "CONSTRUCTINg A PUSH STICk."
4. Ripping narrow pieces can be dangerous. If possible, rip
the narrow piece from the larger piece. If the workpiece
is short enough, use a pushboard. (A pushboard can be
constructed as shown in Fig. 61 and used as shown in
Fig. 62.)
NOTE: In Fig. 62, the guard and splitter have been removed
for clarity. Use the guard and splitter when ripping.
5. For longer pieces, use one or more pushsticks to avoid
placing your hands between the fence and the blade.
Always use care to avoid binding narrow strips between
the anti-kickback pawls and the splitter.
NOTE: Some special operations (moulding cutterhead,
etc.) require the addition of an auxiliary wood facing to the
fence, as explained in the section "USINg AUXILIARY
WOOd FACINg," and use of a push stick.
A
Fig. 60
6"
TOP VIEW
2" x 4"
block
Fig. 61
Fig. 62
21
2" x 4"
block
3/4" plywood
4"
1"
3/8"
1"
2-1/4"
Fig. 59