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6mmFlyRC F-14 Tomcat Instruction Manual

6mmflyrc f-14 tomcat model aircraft
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Instruction Manual

F-14 Tomcat
DISCLAIMER
6mmFlyRC guarantees our kits to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does
not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall 6mmFlyRC's liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, 6mmFlyRC reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that 6mmFlyRC has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-
assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to 6mmFlyRC for a full refund.
While this kit has been flight tested for normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, the
modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.
*Special thanks to Steve Shumate, who not only has provided the instructions for the T-38, F-14, F-15, F-18, and Saab Gripen, but has provided
much needed support to 6mmFlyRC. Without Steve, our job would be much harder.

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Summary of Contents for 6mmFlyRC F-14 Tomcat

  • Page 1: Instruction Manual

    DISCLAIMER 6mmFlyRC guarantees our kits to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall 6mmFlyRC's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
  • Page 2 This model was designed to be built from either BlueCore fan-fold foam or 6 mm Depron foam. If using BlueCore, note you’ll need to peel the film backing off the fuselage exterior parts to allow sanding the fuselage corners to shape. Leave the film on the wing and empennage parts since it adds strength, durability, and smoothness.
  • Page 3 1. Begin assembly with the forward fuselage. Lay the two fuselage sides down flat on the work bench and glue the foam doublers to the locations shown on the parts templates. Be sure to make two mirror image parts—a left side and a right side. Use a heat gun to gently heat the foam and form the curves in these pieces.
  • Page 4 3. Laminate the nose cone pieces together using 3M 77 spray adhesive. Then glue the assembled nosecone block to the forward fuselage as shown (5 minute epoxy recommended). Once the glue has dried, carve the nose cone to shape. Start by tracing the top view template on the top of the block and cutting the block to that outline.
  • Page 5 4. Begin assembly of the inlets. Be sure to make two mirror-image inlets! First glue the small plywood stabilizer support squares to each side in the locations shown on the plans, and then drill the 3/16” holes for the stab pivots.
  • Page 6 5. Tack glue the three temporary inlet bulkheads to one side (these will be removed later), and then tack glue the two inlet sides together. Next glue the inlet bottom piece on. To make sure the inlets are assembled perfectly square, hook the sides over a bench as shown and hold the inlets flat against the bench as the glue dries.
  • Page 7 6. Glue the inlet diverters to the fuselage sides. Note the bottom of the diverter butts up against the step in the fuselage bottom piece. 7. Laminate the five motor mount pieces together using 3M 77. Note the tabbed piece goes in the middle. Then sand the assembly to a tapered shape as shown.
  • Page 8 8. Sand the forward fuselage to the contours shown. It’s important to do this now before you glue the inlets to the side of the fuselage, since the inlets will block access to the aft part of the fuselage. Sand the bottom edges to a circular shape, and then sand the top edges down to the feathered shape shown on the diagram at left.
  • Page 9 9. Next glue the inlets to each side of the fuselage. Note that the tabs on the fuselage bottom piece slide into corresponding slots in the inlet sides, which automatically ensures proper alignment. But you’ll need to make sure the inboard forward top edges of the inlets are flush with the top of the aft fuselage (the area held together with blue tape in the bottom picture at left).
  • Page 10 10. Now we’ll build the wing sweep mechanism. Begin by cutting out all the plywood parts using a similar procedure as the foam parts—just tack glue the paper templates to the wood using 3M 77 spray and then cut the parts out with a sharp hobby knife (that’s one of the beauties of lite-ply—it can be cut quickly with a knife!).
  • Page 11 12. Test fit the top and bottom spar box pieces together. Sand the balsa shear webs as required until you get a perfect fit. Then glue the top and bottom pieces together with CA. Now drill the four ¼” holes for the nylon bolt wing pins—one in each end of the spar box and one in each swing arm.
  • Page 12 13. Cut the carbon tube wing spars to length and test fit the swing arms and spars into the wing, trimming as required. Then glue the swing arms and spars in place using epoxy (note that the side with the control arm goes down on the swing arms).
  • Page 13 15. Make the 1/8” lite-ply servo arm, and then attach a nylon servo arm with two screws as shown. You may need to experiment to find the exact hole locations that result in both wings swinging identically forward to back— and those locations will probably NOT be symmetrical.
  • Page 14 17. Glue the servo tray on the bottom of the spacer. Make the pushrods using 1/16” threaded rods with steel clevises on each side. I found that the Great Planes small steel clevises happened to work best, providing a perfect fit with the 1/8” lite-ply control arms. Dubro clevises didn’t fit nearly as well…...
  • Page 15 19. Test fit the wing swing box onto the fuselage. The forward side of the spar box butts up against the step in the inlet tops. Cut clearance holes as shown for the wing pushrods on the top of each inlet side (4 total). Be sure to make those holes wide enough to clear the pushrods throughout the entire swing of the wings.
  • Page 16 20. Next install the tailerons. Each taileron has a .157” diameter carbon spar that pivots inside two small pieces of 3/16” diameter aluminum, which are supported by two small squares of 1/64” ply glued to the foam inside the inlets. Begin by sanding the tailerons to shape.
  • Page 17 21. Glue the vertical tail support doublers to the inside of each inlet top piece, making left and right versions. Then cut the slot for the vertical tails at a roughly 5 degree cant angle (canted outboard). Use a heat gun to form the small curve in the aft end for the exhaust nozzle.
  • Page 18 22. Install the speed control and battery extension wiring. Note that the battery extension wiring should be twisted and then wrapped with aluminum foil to reduce RF interference. In the photo here, the speed control is installed inside the airplane. However, I later learned (the hard way) that the speed control must be installed OUTSIDE the airplane to provide cooling and prevent shutdown due to overheating.
  • Page 19 24. If you’re installing rudders on this model, install the control runs now. I used Sullivan light flexible cable pushrods, with 1/32” music wire soldered on the rudder end and Dubro micro EZ connectors on the servo end. Note the two small pieces of scrap foam that support the cables near the servo. Rudders are nice to have and are useful during aerobatics and very low speed maneuvering.
  • Page 20 27. Sand the wing strake and turtledeck to shape as shown. To reduce the friction of the wing swing mechanism, place a single layer of packing tape on the insides of the wing slot (top only) and on the top and bottom of the wing root (but only where it contacts the wing slot).
  • Page 21 28. Cut an access hole for the wing swing servo as shown. Also cut the access hole for the receiver (not shown here) and install the receiver. 29. The canopy is removable to allow easy access to the battery compartment. It is held in place with two bamboo skewers forward (toothpicks or carbon rod could also be used) that slide into matching holes in the forward bulkhead, and two small strips of Velcro aft that are mounted to short...
  • Page 22 30. Install the motor and plug it into the speed control leads. 31. CONGRATULATIONS! Your model is now complete. The model can be painted using standard acrylic craft paint (available at most craft stores), applied with either a brush or airbrush. Remember to wipe the foam with rubbing alcohol before painting to remove any grease or dirt.
  • Page 23 Additional Photos Here are some additional photos of the prototype F-14 Tomcat Park Jet for reference Page 23...