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RIM TRUEnESS AnD SPoKE TEnSIon
For the true running of the wheel it is imperative that the tension exerted
by the spokes is distributed evenly around the rim (a). If the tension of
a single spoke changes, e.g. as a result of riding fast over a kerb or of
a loose nipple, the tensile forces acting on the rim become unbalanced
and the wheel will no longer run true. The functioning of your WHEELER
bicycle may even be impaired before you notice the wobbling appear-
ance of a wheel that has gone out of true.
a
With rim brakes the sides of the rims also serve as braking surfaces
(b+c). An untrue wheel can impair your braking power. It is therefore
advisable to check the wheels for trueness from time to time. For this
purpose lift the wheel off the ground and spin it with your hand. Watch
the gap between the rim and the brake pads. If the gap varies by more
than a millimetre, you should ask your WHEELER bicycle dealer to true
up the wheel (d).
G
b
A
A
c
d
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Do not ride with untrue wheels. In the case of extreme side-
to-side wobbles, the brake pads of rim brakes can miss the
rim and get caught in the spokes! This normally instantly
jams the wheel and throws you off your bicycle.
Loose spokes must be tightened at once. otherwise the
load on the other spokes and the rim will increase.
Truing (retruing) wheels is a difficult job which you should
definitely leave to your WHEELER bicycle dealer.
tyre puncture
Flat tyres are the most common cause of puncture during cycling. How-
ever, as long as you have the necessary tools and a spare tube or a
repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle ride. If your wheels
are attached with quick-releases to the frame and the fork, you only
need two tyre levers and a pump (e).
I
Before removing a wheel, read the chapters "wheel mount-
ing" and "how to use Quick-releases". If you are in doubt
or if you have any questions, then contact your WHEELER
bicycle dealer.
U
You can find information on removing the rear wheel of your
WHEELER pedelec in the chapter "removing and installing
the rear wheel" in your BionX system operating instruc-
tions.
WHEEL REMoVAL
If your bicycle has mechanical rim brakes (cantilever and V-brakes)
you first have to unhook the brake cable from the brake arm (f). To do
this, grip the rim with one hand and press the brake pads and/or arms
together. In this position the usually barrel shaped nipple of the lateral
brake cable or the brake hose (of V-brakes) can easily be disengaged.
If your bicycle has hydraulic rim brakes from Magura, unlock its
(g)
quick-release on one side of the brake
and remove the brake from
the brake mount.
If disc brakes (hydraulic or mechanical) are fitted, see first where the
brake pads and their wear indicators (metal lugs/projections)
seated. Later you can tell from them whether the pads are still at the
proper place after removal. Read the instructions of the brake manufac-
turer, which you can find on the enclosed CD.
If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the smallest
sprocket before removing the rear wheel. The rear derailleur is now
completely outside and does not get in the way of dismantling.
Open the quick-release of the wheel, as described in the chapter "how
to use Quick-releases".
(h)
are
e
f
f
g
h
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