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The following table represents some of the most common technical support questions we receive. Before calling us, please read
PROBLEM
Water heater is not heating at all
(water is flowing but the unit is not
heating at all – the outgoing water
temperature is the same as my cold
water supply) – the digital display does
NOT light up.
Water heater is not heating at all
(water is flowing but the unit is not
heating at all – the outgoing water
temperature is the same as my cold
water supply) The digital display DOES
light up.
Water heater is heating but the water
temperature is not hot enough.
The water temperature at my faucet is
less than the temperature setting of
my water heater.
thoroughly to see if your question or problem is addressed.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
No power or incorrect wiring.
Flow rate is too low/water pressure is too low.
Internal part failure.
User temperature setting too low.
Flow rate is too high.
Crossed wires.
Voltage less than 240 volts.
Mixing too much cold water.
Voltage less than 240 volts.
Anti-Scald pressure/balancing valve or tempering
valve.
Thermal loss due to long pipe run
Page 11 of 11
SOLUTION
Make sure the breakers at main electrical panel
are ON. You may have a faulty breaker or unit may
be wired incorrectly.
Your water heater has an activation flow rate of
approximately 0.25 GPM. If your water flow rate is
less than this level, your unit will not activate.
Increase the flow rate.
Please call us for technical assistance.
Turn up the temperature setting on the unit (see
General Operating Instructions section of this
manual)
Depending on your incoming water temperature
and the power output of your model, your water
flow rate may exceed the physical heating capacity
of your water heater. Reduce the flow rate at the
faucet or slightly close the shutoff valve installed
on the inlet side of your heater to reduce the inlet
water flow rate. (see General Operating
Instructions section of this manual)
If it's new installation, have your electrician double
check the wiring. It is possible that the wiring is
incorrect.
The heating elements on your water heater are
designed for 240 Volts. When using a lower
voltage, they produce less heating power. You may
need to upgrade to a larger model.
You do not need to mix as much cold water with
your tankless water heater compared to when
using a conventional tank-type water heater. You
may also have an anti-scald feature on your faucet
that is mixing cold water. These types of faucets
can usually be adjusted to reduce the amount of
cold water mixed. (see General Operating
Instructions)
The computer chips in your tankless water heater
are programmed with the expectation that your
incoming line voltage is 240 volts. If you have less
than 240 volts, it may affect the reading on your
water heater's digital display and cause it to read
slightly higher than the actual output
temperature. To compensate, increase the setting
on your water heater.
Your faucet may have an anti-scald feature. These
types of faucets can usually be adjusted to reduce
the amount of cold water mixed. (see General
Operating Instructions)
As the hot water from the heater runs through the
hot water delivery system to your faucet, some
heat will be lost especially if it has a long distance
to travel or the pipes are cold. This is normal. You
can compensate for this by increasing the setting
on your water if you need/want hotter water.
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