PSB the CustomSound Series Installation Manual page 8

mounting clamp toggles out from a rest position prior to tightening down. As shipped,
this mounting clamp parks on a flat on its mounting tower, thus staying out of the way
for easy insertion of the system into the wall cutout. When a screwdriver is applied
to the mounting screws it first turns the clamp 90 degrees, removing it from its resting
place, and then brings the clamp down a track in the tower. With further tightening it
finally clamps the wall firmly. This clamping style gives firm clamping for freedom
from rattles, and great convenience of installation. The rectangular models have 6-
8 of these clamping assemblies and the round and square versions have 4 each.
A template is provided for marking the speaker cutout. It has a series of slots for
tracing the cutout and also an outline of the system to confirm that the flange won't
interfere with any wall features.
For the new construction application, we offer Performance Enclosure and Pre-
construction Bracket solutions. The Performance Enclosure (BBX-88) defines the
optimal enclosure volume for our CustomSound Series products and is mounted
between two studs behind drywall. The result is optimal low frequency response and
an improvement in adjacent room isolation. The Pre-construction Brackets simplify
installation in new construction application and can be used with or without the
Performance Enclosure. Installation instructions are provided with both products.
At each intended speaker location measure and mark with a pencil the intended
center of the speaker. Near the intended center make a small initial exploratory hole
with an awl or (worn) screwdriver and hammer, a wallboard cutout saw, or a drill. If
the awl, screwdriver or saw hits "solid" after the wallboard or plaster is pierced or if
the drill produces sawdust after the initial wallboard/plaster dust, you have probably
hit a wooden stud—which will obstruct that location. If drilling becomes harder after
piercing the wallboard or plaster, remember it could be plumbing, mechanical, or
electrical material. If you feel unusual resistance or sense an obstruction, stop.
Consider the situation and carefully make another small exploratory hole about
1 1/2" to the side where you would prefer the speaker location to move.
When your small exploratory hole avoids obvious obstruction, enlarge that hole
slightly with the screwdriver and hammer (or wallboard saw) until you can extend a
short probe wire/fish-tape through the hole and determine the location of the stud on
each side and other obstructions. Adjust your layout if necessary and then enlarge
the hole slightly so that you can see into the wall cavity (aided by a flashlight) and
confirm there are no further obstructions.
Continue this process of initial layout, exploratory holes, determining hole, and
confirming hole at each intended location in a related group before proceeding with
full cutouts. You can then modify the initial layout as required to avoid the inevitable
discovered conflicts and maintain a desired layout for acoustical performance and
visual aesthetics—while avoiding and minimizing any excess cutting and patching.
When final speaker locations are determined, use the template by placing it on the
wall at the intended system location. Several thumbtacks can hold it in position.
(Put the thumbtacks within the outline of the system and their holes won't show
later.) Use a pencil or fine tipped pen to trace around the slots of the template. Bias
the pencil or pen towards the inside of the slots to achieve the proper dimensions. A
cutout of the dimensions determined by the template will include a little play to allow
for cutting variation.
Now cut out the full rough-opening being careful to avoid over-cutting, breaking
edges of the opening, or damaging surrounding paint or wallpaper finishes. A
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