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ZipLink Wireless Phone Line & Ethernet Extender User Guide v.1 Multi‐Link, Inc. 122 Dewey Drive | Nicholasville, KY | 40356 USA Sales and Tech Support 800.535.4651 FAX 859.885.6619 www.multi‐link.net ...
Technical Support Phone Support: 916-947-7444 Safety Warning !! In order to comply with electrical codes in most areas, as well as provide adequate protection from lightning, you MUST ground the ZipLink outdoor unit! ...
The Multi-Link ZipLink is a wireless system that allows up to two standard analog (POTS) phone lines and an ethernet LAN (internet) connection to be quickly installed between two buildings or locations up to 1 mile / 1.6 kilometers apart. The ZipLink is designed to be easy to install. You will need the following tools: ‐ Power Drill / Screwdriver w/ Phillips bits ‐ 10mm nut driver / wrench ‐ Wire fish line Box Contents ‐ 2 ZipLinK Outdoor Radios: LINE & PHONE ‐ 2 power adapters ‐ 2 Antenna Mounts ‐ Accessory Kit (White Box) Cabling Each ZipLink radio comes equipped with 30 Meters / 100 feet of OUTDOOR RATED cable which runs from the ZipLink to the Power / POTS Power Injector, which is usually mounted in the customer’s telco room. The cable is used for the phone connections as well as power. YOU MAY SHORTEN THIS CABLE IF YOU WISH, BUT YOU MAY NOT LENGTHEN IT. Keep in mind that this cable length maximum distance is due to the maximum length allowable for the power wires inside this cable only. ...
There are two connections coming out of the ZipLink. The precabled connection has the POTS lines and power, the bottom middle weatherproof connector is for Cat5e data. Each outdoor ZipLink radio should be electrically grounded by use of a ground lug installed on one of the bolts used to hold the ZipLink on the pole mount brackets and run to a proper electrical ground. This is not only a safety requirement for lightning dissipation purposes, but also improves system radio performance, since the enclosure provides radio shielding against unwanted radio and electrical noise on the phone lines. Assuming that the outlet which the Power Injectors power supply is properly installed according to electrical codes, no further grounding points in the system is required. The electrical circuits for the phone and ethernet/data connections should NEVER be grounded. This includes all connections in the power injector. Phone connections “float”. Cable Gland Assembly Inside the accessory box that came with the ZipLink, you will find 2 black cable glands that look like this: You should unscrew the two parts. You should leave the small rubber O‐ring where it is. You will notice that the O‐ring has a slit in it. This is to allow the ethernet cable to be completely assembled on the ground, prior to installing it on the radio. ...
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This is the order that everything goes together prior on the cable: The next step is to push the rubber ring into position so that it will compress when the gland is assembled. You should GENTLY use a small screwdriver to slide it inside the main body of the gland housing until it is flush with the little plastic fingers at the bottom of the gland, like shown in the picture to the right‐> You can now slide the gland up and down the cable while you plug in the ethernet connector into the bottom of the radio: Screw in the gland housing: And then the bottom gland cap: ...
Bench Testing When bench testing the ZipLink, you need to know the following: ‐ The minimum distance between the radios must be 25 feet or 8 meters. If you have the Line and Phone ZipLink closer together than this during testing, the system may not operate properly, especially in modem testing. ‐ You should always orient the radios similarly to how they will be oriented when they are installed. Optionally, you may sit them BOTH sideways with the SKY arrow pointing at the same wall to facilitate easy RJ45 cable installation. ‐ Both units should be electrically grounded on their chassis to ensure noise from lights and motors in the vicinity do not affect call quality. Installation Mount the ZipLink Radios as high up as possible on both buildings. The radios must “see” each other without obstructions between them, and since radio travels in a “football” shape between antennas, you must not only have a direct path between the antennas, but the path also must be wide enough, as determined by the distance between the radios: Radio height required by distance between radios Distance (mi./km) .25 / .40 .5 / .80 1 / 1.6 Minimum Height( ft/m) 10 / 3 ...
It REALLY matters what radio is at what end!! • The ZipLink unit that has a BLACK cable gland on the cat3 cable should plug into a phone or modem or fax machine. (You may also say that this is the radio that goes to the REMOTE end, or the end that currently does not have a phone) •...
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• Here is what each end will look like just before you install it: • First, attach the aluminum bracket to the back of the ZipLink. Use the 4 bolts, washers, and lock washers that are already on the back of the radio: ...
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• Next, put the U-Bolts in place. These are also packaged in the Accessory Kit (the white box), and are wrapped in plastic wrap, along with washers and lock washers: • The hardware for the pole mounts is included with the brackets themselves.
Electrical Connections Here is a diagram of all the components in the ZipLink kit, and how they hook together: • The electrical connection between the power injectors and the wall adapters have not been shown for clarity. They must be plugged into the wall once the other connections have been made.
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2 and green is always pin 3, it may cause an issue with the ZipLink operation. • Even if you use a ZipLink only for the Ethernet capability, you MUST still run the provided Cat 3 cable inside to the power injector. The ZipLink does not support power over ethernet.
It is possible to overdrive the radios if they are only a few feet apart and facing each other. Generally, it is okay to put both ZipLink radios on the bench facing upwards and a few feet apart when testing. This will bring the signal strength down to a reasonable level.
2 on one end and pin 3 on the other, and vice versa for green. If you have a phone cable that is a straight through cable, ie. Red is always pin 2 and green is always pin 3, it may cause an issue with the ZipLink operation. Startup / Testing Once the antennas have been aligned, you may test the system by dialing in and out of the phone at the remote end.
ZipLink radio, or have accidentally installed the LINE unit at the remote end. Check that the phone is plug into a ZipLink unit with two black cable glands (one small and one large), and that the power adapters LED is illuminating when power is applied.
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This is normal. • Grounding – The ZipLink is considered to be a low voltage device, and therefore usually may be installed by anyone without need for permits or inspections. However, you...
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If you are uncertain what kind of ZipLink you have, or if you want to change a ZipLink from a Voice/Fax unit to a Modem unit, you will need the TUtil ZipLink 24 software utility, which can be obtained through technical support or on the Multi-Link website at www.multi-link.net.
Multi-Link warrants the ZipLink system for one year from date of purchase by the original owner. Multi-Link will replace or repair, at its option, any ZipLink system that fails to perform under normal use, provided that the system is returned, at the cost of the owner, to Multi-Link. Items that are returned for warranty repair must be accompanied by a copy of the original invoice or proof of purchase.
Ethernet Port RJ45 / 10BT equivalent Fax Speed 14.4 kbps Modem Speed (Modem Version) up to 4800 baud Operating Temperature ‐40 C / ‐40 F to +50C / +125F Power Required 7W, (ZipLink) / 10W (ZipLink 2) 5.8 GHz DSSS, License Free Radio Type Encryption 256 bit AES Radio Power +34 dBm ‐5 Radio Sensitivity ...
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