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Operation - DeWalt DW364 Instruction Manual

7-1/4" (180 mm)/ 8-1/4" (209 mm) heavy duty circular saw

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knob a nd tiltshoe t othe desired angle b yaligning the pointer with the desired angle mark.
Retighten
knob f irmly (clockwise).
KERF
INDICATOR
(FIG. 8)
The front of the saw shoe has a kerf indicator
(L) for vertical
and bevel cutting.
This
indicator
enables
you to guide the saw along cutting
lines penciled
on the material
being cut. The indicator
lines up with the left (inner) side of the saw blade, which makes the slot or "kerf" cut by the moving
blade fall to the right of the indicator.
Guide along the penciled
cutting
line so that the kerf falls into
the waste
or surplus
material.
Figure 8 shows the dimensions
of the shoe. Note that the left side
is 5 1/2" between
the left side of the blade and the left edge of the shoe (standard
6x lumber). The
right dimension
is 1 1/2" (standard
2x lumber).
SHOE ALIGNMENT
Your saw has been set at the factory for accurate
vertical cuts (a 90 degree
angle between
the
bottom of the shoe (M) and the blade). The edge of the shoe has also been set parallel to the blade
so that it will not bind when
using an edge guide. If the saw should
ever need adjustment,
it may
be done as follows:
ADJUSTING
FOR 90 ° CUTS (FIG. 9-11)
1. DISCONNECT
PLUG
FROM
POWER
SUPPLY.
2. Adjust
the saw to 0 ° bevel.
3. Place saw on blade
side (Figure
9). Retract
blade guard.
4. Loosen
quadrant
knob.
Place a square
against
the blade
and shoe to adjust the 90 ° setting.
5. Loosen
the hex nut (N) and move the adjustment
screw
(O) so that the shoe will stop at the
proper
angle
as shown
in Figure
11. Lock the screw
in place by tightening
the hex nut.
6. it may be necessary
to adjust the quadrant
angle
pointer
to line up on "O" after shoe has
been adjusted.
ADJUSTING
THE SHOE PARALLEL
TO THE BLADE
1. DISCONNECT
PLUG
FROM
POWER
SUPPLY.
2. Loosen
the hex nut
(N) shown
in Figure
10 and then
turn the adjustment
screw
(O) in or
out as needed
to adjust
for parallelism.
3. Adjust
the shoe until it is parallel
to the blade by measuring
from the edge of the shoe to the
blade,
front & rear. You can
measure
from the outside
edge of the blade
to the shoe
as
shown
in Figure 8 or from the inner edge of the blade to the wider part of the shoe.
(Do not
measure
from the tips of any saw blade teeth.)
4. When the shoe and blade are parallel,
hold the adjusting
screw
in place and tighten the hex
nut firmly.
OPERATION
Switch
Pull the trigger
switch
to turn the motor
"ON".
Releasing
the trigger
turns
the motor
"OFF".
Releasing
the trigger also automatically
actuates
the electric
brake.
This tool has no provision
to lock the switch
in the "ON" position,
and should
never be locked "ON" by any other
means.
Changing
Blades
_, CAUTION:
ALWAYS
TURN
OFFAND
DISCONNECT
TOOL BEFORE
CHANGING
ACCES-
SORIES
OR MAKING
ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
TO INSTALL
THE BLADE
1. Place inner clamp
washer
(D) on saw spindle
with the large flat surface
facing out toward
the blade (Fig. 2).
2. Retract
the lower
blade guard
(C) and place
blade on saw spindle
against
the inner clamp
washer, making
sure that the blade will rotate in the proper direction
(the direction
of the rota-
tion arrow on the saw blade and the teeth must point in the same direction
as the direction
of
rotation
arrow on the saw). Do not assume
that the printing
on the blade will always
be fac-
ing you when properly
installed.
When
retracting
the lower blade
guard to install the blade,
check the condition
and operation
of the lower blade guard to assure that it is working
prop-
erly. Make sure it moves
freely and does not touch
the blade or any other part, in all angles
and depths of cut.
3. Place outer clamp washer
(F) on saw spindle with the large flat surface
against the blade and
the wording
on the outer clamp washer
facing you.
4. Thread
blade
clamping
screw
(G) into saw spindle
by hand (screw
has right-hand
threads
and must be turned clockwise
to tighten).
5. Depress
the blade
lock (B) while
turning
the saw spindle
with the blade
wrench
until the
blade
lock engages
and the blade stops rotating
(Fig. 3).
6. Tighten
the blade clamping
screw
firmly with the blade
wrench.
NOTE:
Never engage
the blade lock while saw is running,
or engage
in an effort to stop the tool.
Never turn the saw on while the blade lock is engaged.
Serious
damage
to your saw will result.
TO REPLACE
THE BLADE
1. To loosen
the blade
clamping
screw
(G), depress
the blade
lock (B) and turn the saw spin-
dle with the blade wrench
until the blade
lock engages
and the blade
stops rotating.
With
the blade
lock engaged,
turn the blade
clamping
screw
clockwise
with the blade
wrench
(screw
has right-hand
threads
and must be turned
counterclockwise
to loosen).
2. Remove
the blade clamping
screw
(G) and outer clamp washer
(F) only. Remove
old blade.
3. Clean any sawdust
that may have accumulated
in the guard or clamp washer
area and check
the condition
and operation
of the lower blade guard as previously
outlined.
Do not lubricate
this area.
4. Select the proper blade for the application
(see Blades).
Always
use blades
that are the cor-
rect size
(diameter)
with the proper
size and shape
center
hole for mounting
on the saw
spindle.
Always
assure
that the maximum
recommended
speed
(rpm)
on the saw
blade
meets
or exceeds
the speed
(rpm) of the saw.
5. Follow
steps 2 through
6 under To Install
the Blade,
making
sure that the blade will rotate
in the proper
direction.
LOWER
BLADE
GUARD
_ WARNING:
The lower
blade
guard
is a safety
feature
which reduces
the risk
of serious
personal
injury.
Never
use the saw ff the lower
guard
is missing,
damaged,
misassembled
or not working
properly.
Do not rely on the lower
blade
guard
to protect
you
under
all cir-
cumstances.
Your safety
depends
on following
aft warnings
and precautions
as well as
proper
operation
of the saw.
Check
lower
guard
for proper
closing
before
each
use as
outlined
in Additional
Safety Rules
for Circular
Saws.
if the lower
blade
guard
is missing
or not
working
properly,
have
the saw
serviced
before
using.
To assure
product
safety
and reliability,
repair,
maintenance
and adjustment
should
be performed
by an author-
ized
service
center
or
other
qualified
service
organization,
always
using
identical
replacement
parts.
Workpiece
Support
Figure 12 shows
proper sawing
position.
Note that hands
are kept away from cutting
area, and
power cord
is positioned
clear of the cutting
area so that it will not get caught
or hung up on the
work.
To avoid
kickback,
DO support
board
or panel
NEAR
the cut and on both sides
of the cut,
(Figure
13). DON'T
support
board
or panel
away from the cut, (Figure
14). When
ripping
long
narrow
strips, support
cut-off
waste
material.
When
operating
the saw, keep the cord away from the cutting
area and prevent
it from becom-
ing hung up on the work piece. Note that a special
Cord Keeper
has been provided
on the tool's
handle.
Simply
press the cord into the keeper
to keep it in sight and out of the way.
_
WARNING:
It is important
to support
the work properly
and to hold the saw firmly to prevent
loss of control which could cause personal
injury, Figure
12 illustrates
typical hand support
of the
saw
ALWAYS
DISCONNECT
SAW BEFORE
MAKING
ANY ADJUSTMENTS!
Place the work with its
"good"
side - the one on which
appearance
is most important
- down. The saw cuts upward,
so
any splintering
will be on the work face that is up when you saw it.
Support
the work
so that the cut will be on your
right. Place the wider
portion
of the saw shoe
on that part of the work piece which is solidly supported,
not on the section that will fall off when
the cut is made.
As examples,
Figure15
illustrates
the RIGHT
way to cut off the end of a board,
and Figure
16 the WRONG
way. Always
clamp
work.
Don't try to hold short
pieces
by hand!
Remember
to support
cantilevered
and overhanging
material.
Use caution
when sawing
mate-
rial from below.
CUTTING
Be sure saw is up to full speed before blade contacts material to be cut. Starting saw with blade
against material to be cut or pushed forward into kerf can result in kickback.
Push the saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut without laboring. Hardness and
toughness can vary even in the same piece of material, and knotty or damp sections can put a
heavy load on the saw. When this happens, push the saw more slowly, but hard enough to keep
it working without much decrease in speed. Forcing the saw can cause rough cuts, inaccuracy,
kickback and over-heating of the motor.
Should your cut begin to go off the line, don't try to force it back on. Release the switch and allow
blade to come to a complete stop. Then you can withdraw the saw, sight anew, and start a new
cut slightly inside the wrong one. In any event, withdraw the saw if you must shift the cut. Forcing
a correction inside the cut can stall the saw and lead to kickback. IF SAW STALLS, RELEASE
THE TRIGGER AND BACK THE SAW UNTIL IT IS LOOSE. BE SURE BLADE IS STRAIGHT
IN THE CUTAND CLEAR OF THE CUTTING EDGE BEFORE RESTARTING.
As you finish a cut, release the trigger and allow the blade to stop before lifting the saw from the
work. As you lift the saw, the spring-tensioned telescoping guard will automatically close under
the blade. Remember the blade is exposed until this occurs, never reach under the work for any
reason whatsoever. When you have to retract the telescoping guard manually (as is necessary
for starting pocket cuts) always use the retracting lever.
NOTE: When cutting thin strips, be careful to ensure that small cutoff pieces don't hang up on
inside of lower guard.
Always use a fence or straight edge guide when ripping.
POCKET
CUTTING
(FIG.
17)
DISCONNECT
PLUG
FROM
POWER
SUPPLY.
Adjust
saw
shoe
so blade
cuts
at desired
depth. Tilt saw forward
and rest front of the shoe on material
to be cut. Using the retracting
lever,
retract blade guard to an upward
position.
Lower rear of shoe until blade teeth almost
touch cut-
ting line. Now release
the blade
guard
and its contact
with the work will keep it in position
to
open freely as you start the cut. Start the motor
and gradually
lower the saw until its shoe rests
flat on the material
to be cut. Advance
saw along the cutting
line until cut is completed.
Release
trigger and allow blade to stop completely
before withdrawing
the blade from the material.
When
starting
each new cut, repeat as above.
Never tie the blade guard
in a raised
position.
Kickback
When
the saw blade
becomes
pinched
or twisted
in the cut,
kickback
can occur. The saw
is
thrust rapidly
back toward
the operator.
When
the blade is pinched
or bound
tightly by the kerf
closing
down, the blade stalls and the motor reaction
drives the unit backward.
When
the blade
becomes
twisted
or misaligned
in the cut, the teeth at the back edge
of the blade
can dig into
the top surface
of the wood causing
the blade to climb out of the kerf and jump back toward the
operator.
Kickback
is more likely to occur when any of the following
conditions
exist.
1. IMPROPER
WORKPIECE
SUPPORT
A. Sagging
or improper
lifting of the cut off piece causing
pinching
of the blade.
B. Cutting
through
material
supported
at the outer
ends only (see Figure 14). As the materi-
al weakens
it sags, closing
down the kerf and pinching
the blade.
C. Cutting
of a cantilevered
or overhanging
piece of material
from the bottom
up in a verti-
cal direction.
The falling cut off piece can pinch the blade.
D. Cutting
off long narrow
strips (as in ripping).
The cut off strip can sag or twist closing
the
kerf and pinching
the blade.
E. Snagging
the lower guard
on a surface
below the material
being cut momentarily
reduc-
ing operator
control.
The saw can lift partially
out of the cut increasing
the chance
of blade
twist.
2. IMPROPER
DEPTH
OF CUT SETTING
ON SAW
Using the saw with an excessive
depth of cut setting
increases
loading
on the unit and sus-
ceptibility
to twisting
of the blade
in the kerf. It also increases
the surface
area of the blade
available
for pinching
under conditions
of kerf close down.
3. BLADE
TWISTING
(MISALIGNMENT
IN CUT)
A. Pushing
harder to cut through
a knot, a nail, or a hard grain area can cause the blade to
twist.
B. Trying
to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get back on the marked
line) can cause
blade
twist.
C. Extended
reach or operating
saw with
poor body control
(out of balance),
can result
in
twisting
the blade.
D. Changing
hand grip or body position
while
cutting
can result in blade twist.
E. Backing
unit up to clear blade can lead to twist if not done carefully.
4. Materials
that require
extra attention
A. Wet lumber
B. Green
lumber
(material
freshly
cut or not kiln dried)
C. Pressure
treated
lumber
(material
treated
with preservatives
or anti-rot
chemicals)
5. USE OF DULL OR DIRTY
BLADES
Dull or dirty blades
cause
increased
loading
of the saw. To compensate,
an operator
will
usually
push harder
which further
loads the unit and promotes
twisting
of the blade
in the
kerf. Worn
blades
may also have reduced
body clearance
which
increases
the chance
of
binding
and increased
loading.
6. LiFTiNG
THE SAW WHEN
MAKING
BEVEL
CUTS
Bevel cuts require
special
operator
attention
to proper cutting
techniques
- especially
guid-
ance of the saw.
Both blade
angle
to the shoe
and greater
blade
surface
in the material
increase
the chance
for binding
and misalignment
(twist) to occur.
7. RESTARTING
A CUT WITH THE BLADE
TEETH
JAMMED
AGAINST
THE MATERIAL
The saw should
be brought
up to full operating
speed
before starting
a cut or restarting
a
cut after the unit has been stopped
with the blade
in the kerf. Failure
to do so can cause
stalling
and kickback.
Any other
conditions
which
could
result
in pinching,
binding,
twisting,
or misalignment
of the
blade
could
cause
kickback.
Refer
to the
sections
on
"Adjustments
And
Set-Up"
and
"Operation"
for procedures
and techniques
that will minimize
the occurrence
of kickback.
Blades
A dull blade will cause
slow, inefficient
cutting
overload
on the saw motor, excessive
splintering
and could
increase
the possibility
of kickback.
It is a good practice
to keep extra blades
on hand
so that
sharp
blades
are available
while
the dull
ones are
being
sharpened
(See
"SAWS-
SHARPENING"
in the Yellow
Pages).
In fact, many
lower
priced
blades
can be replaced
with
new ones at very little cost over the sharpening
price.
Hardened
gum on the blade
will slow down
the cutting.
This gum can best be removed
with
kerosene,
turpentine
or oven cleaner.
DEWALT
manufactures
a complete
line of saw
blades
and the following
types
of blades
are
available
from your service
center.
VISUALLY
EXAMINE
CARBIDE
BLADES
BEFORE
USE. REPLACE
IF DAMAGED.
Cleaning
and Lubrication
Use only mild soap and a damp cloth to clean the tool. Never let any liquid get inside
the tool;
never immerse
any part of the tool into a liquid.
Self lubricating
ball and roller bearings
are used in the tool and relubrication
is not required.
However,
it is recommended
that, once a year, you take or send the tool to a service
center
for
a thorough
cleaning,
inspection
and lubrication
of the gear case.
Accessories
Recommended
accessories
for use with your tool are available
at extra cost from your distribu-
tor or local service
center.
If you need assistance
in locating
any accessory,
please
contact
DEWALT Industrial
Tool Co.,
701 East Joppa
Road, Baltimore,
MD 21286
or call 1-800-4-DEWALT
(1-800-433-9258).
A. RIP FENCE
- attaches
to top of saw shoe; permits
rip cuts without
penciled
guide
line.
B. SAW PROTRACTOR
- guides
saw for accurate
cut-off
work; adjusts
from 0 to 70 degrees.
C. CUT-OFF
GUIDE
- for 90 degree
or 45 degree
cuts.
_
CAUTION:
The use of any non-recommended
accessory
may be hazardous.
Repairs
To assure
product
SAFETY
and RELIABILITY,
repairs,
maintenance
and adjustment
(including
brush inspection
and replacement)
should
be performed
by authorized
service
centers
or other
qualified
service
organizations,
always
using identical
replacement
parts.
Three
Year Limited
Warranty
DEWALT will repair, without charge,
any defects
due to faulty materials
or workmanship
for three
years
from the date of purchase.
This warranty
does not cover
part failure
due to normal
wear
or tool
abuse.
For further
detail
of warranty
coverage
and warranty
repair
information,
visit
www.dewalt.com
or call 1-800-4-DEWALT
(1-800-433-9258).
This warranty
does
not apply to
accessories
or damage
caused
where
repairs
have been made
or attempted
by others.
This
warranty
gives you specific
legal
rights
and you
may have other
rights
which
vary
in certain
states or provinces.
In addition
to the warranty,
DEWALT tools are covered
by our:
1 YEAR
FREE
SERVICE
DEWALT will maintain
the tool and replace
worn parts caused
by normal
use, for free, any time
during
the first year after purchase.
90 DAY MONEY
BACK
GUARANTEE
if you are not completely
satisfied
with the performance
of your DEWALT
Power Tool, Laser, or
Nailer
for any reason,
you can return
it within 90 days from the date of purchase
with a receipt
for a full refund - no questions
asked.
FREE WARNING
LABEL
REPLACEMENT:
If your warning
labels
become
illegible
or are miss-
ing, call 1-800-4-DEWALT
for a free replacement.
POUR
TOUT
RENSEIGNEMENT
SUPPLEMENTAIRE
SUR
CET OUTIL
OU TOUT
AUTRE
OUTIL
DEWALT,
COMPOSER
SANS
FRAIS
LE NUMERO:
1 800
4-DEWALT
(1 800
433-
9258)
importantes
mesures
de s_curit_
_}, AVERTISSEMENT
: Afin de reduire
les risques
d'incendie,
de secousses
electriques
ou de
blessures
Iorsqu'on
utilise des outils electriques,
il faut toujours
respecter
les mesures
de secu-
rite suivantes.
LIRE
TOUTES
LES DIRECTIVES
Double
isolation
Les outils
& double
isolation
comportent
deux
couches
distinctes
d'isolant
electrique
ou une
double
epaisseur
d'isolant
qui protegent
rutilisateur
contre
les risques
de blessures
provenant
du systeme
electrique
de routil.
Ce systeme
de double
isolation
elimine
le besoin
de mettre
les
outils & la terre. En effet, I'outil est muni d'une
fiche & deux broches,
ce qui permet
d'utiliser
une
rallonge
ordinaire
sans avoir & se soucier
d'assurer
la mise a la terre.
NOTE
: La double
isolation
ne dispense
pas des mesures
de securite
normales
Iors de I'utilisa-
tion de I'outil. EIle vise a procurer
une protection
supplementaire
contre
les blessures
que peut
entrafner
une defectuosit6
de I'isolant
electrique
a rinterieur
de routil.

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