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The GTB features the industry-standard receiver input connector on a user-re-
placeable input harness & works with all major radio brand's new receivers. How-
ever, some very old receivers must have the wiring sequence in the plastic 3-pin
connector housing changed. This is important, because receiver & servo elec-
tronics may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect.
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, & Airtronics Z receivers do not need input harness re-
wiring. Airtronics Z receivers have blue plastic cases & new KO cases have tabs on
the input harness openings as in Figure 1.
• Plug one end of the input signal harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of
receiver with the BLACK wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness onto header pins 4-6 from the left on
the side of the ESC with the BLACK wire going onto the 4th pin from the left.
Note: All pin wiring designations are called out on the label on the GTB's heat sink.
New KO (with tabs)
Old KO (no tabs)
tabs
no tabs
white
white
red
black
red
black
Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
If you have an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change the sequence of
the ESC's input harness wires--Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases are black color & Old KO
cases do not have tab openings, as in Figure 2 above.
• Using a small flat blade screwdriver, remove the red & black wires from the
plastic housing at the receiver end of the input harness as in Figure 3 below.
• Interchange the red and black wires in the plastic 3-pin connector housing at
the receiver end of the input harness.
• Insert modified end of the harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of receiver
with the RED wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness onto header pins 4-6 from the left on
the side of the ESC with the BLACK wire going onto the 4th pin from the left.
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 4:
With a small std
screwdriver, gently lift plastic
LED/Pin-Out Label
prong until wire and metal socket
Note that LED positions
easily slide out of plastic housing.
& what they represent is marked
on the heat sink label, along
with the wiring sequence for the
header pins along the side for
the user-replaceable Remote
Blue
Power Programming Switch,
Amber
LED
receiver input harness, cooling
LED
fan, & motor sensor harness.
Red power wire
Novak sensor-based
Sensor
brushless motor
Harness
(battery positive)
bundled with
Spiral Wrap
Yellow power wire
(motor phase 'B')
One-Touch button
Power Trans-Cap Module
Black power wire
(battery negative)
Servo plugged into
steering ch. (#1)
1. NO SCHOTTKY OR MOTOR CAPS IN BRUSHLESS-MODE
DO NOT USE Schottky diodes with the GTB when the speed control is in
the Brushless Mode (Profiles 1-5)--ESC damage will occur & void warranty.
External motor capacitors are not required when operating the GTB in
the Brushless Mode.
2. FACTORY-INSTALLED POWER TRANS-CAP REQUIRED
The GTB comes with a factory-installed Power Trans-Cap Module, and
it MUST be used during both brushless & brush-type motor usage.
If Power Trans-Cap becomes dented or damaged, ESC failure can occur--replace
immediately. Longer wires on the Power Trans-Cap Module will decrease performance.
3. CHECK FOR PROPER GEARING
Refer to PROGRAMMING & GEARING Sheet (Pg.5) for proper gearing.
4. SOLDER MOTOR POWER PHASE WIRES TO MOTOR
Cut the GTB's BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE silicone motor power wires
to the desired length, and strip 1/8-1/4" of insulation from the end
of each wire. Tightly twist the exposed strands of wire.
Insert the ESC's BLUE Phase 'A' motor wire into the hole in the motor's
'A' solder tab & solder. Use a soldering iron to apply heat to exposed
wire that extends through the PCB, and begin adding solder to tip of
soldering iron and to the wire. Add just enough solder to form a
clean & continuous joint from the plated area of the solder tab up
onto the wire. Use side cutters to trim remaining (now soldered) wire
extending beyond the solder tab (about 1/16" above PCB).
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT OVERHEAT SOLDER TABS
Prolonged/excessive heating of solder tabs (motor or ESC) will damage PCB.
Solder the ESC's YELLOW Phase 'B' motor wire to the motor's 'B' solder
tab as described in Step 4B above.
Solder the ESC's ORANGE Phase 'C' motor wire to the motor's 'C'
solder tab as described in Step 4B above.
Note: Make sure no wire strands have strayed to an adjacent solder tab, this will
result in short-circuiting & severe ESC damage, which will void the warranty.
Red
Green
LED
LED
Blue, Yellow, and Orange motor phase
wires connect to motor negative
(–)
(+)
(+)
One-Touch button
Racing Schottky
Module
(–)
Power Trans-Cap Module
Servo plugged into
steering ch. (#1)
P2
(refer to Figure 6 below for connections)
5. CONNECT MOTOR SENSOR HARNESS TO ESC
Insert the 6-pin connector on the end of the motor's Teflon sensor wires
into ESC's sensor harness socket--the connector is keyed and will only go
in in one direction. Use the included spiral wrap to protect the 6 Teflon
sensor harness wires between the ESC & motor.
6. SOLDER ESC'S RED WIRE TO BATTERY PACK POSITIVE
Cut the speed control's RED silicone power wire to the proper length so
it will reach the battery pack's POSITIVE (+) terminal. Strip 1/8-1/4" of
insulation from the end of the wire. Tin and solder the exposed section of
wire to battery pack POSITIVE (+).
7. SOLDER ESC'S BLACK WIRE TO BATTERY PACK NEGATIVE
Cut the speed control's BLACK silicone power wire to the proper length
so it will reach the battery pack's NEGATIVE (–) terminal. Strip 1/8-1/4"
of insulation from the end of the wire. Tin and solder the exposed section
of wire to battery pack NEGATIVE (–).
Battery and motor connectors can be used for making your power wire
connections, however they will never have as low of resistance as a good
solder joint. If you are going to use connectors for your battery and/or motor,
we suggest the Dean's Ultra Connectors--do not use crimp on types as these
can not handle the high currents found in racing systems.
When using battery and motor connectors, please note the following:
• Use connectors that cannot be plugged in backwards--reverse voltage
will damage the GTB and void the warranty.
• Use a female connector on battery packs to avoid shorting. Use a male
connector on the GTB's battery lead.
• If you are going to use connectors for the motor power phase wires,
you MUST TAKE EXTRA CARE to prevent cross phase connections as
this will damage ESC and void the warranty.
For additional information on connector usage, visit our website.
Blue, Yellow, and Orange motor phase
In-Line connection
wires connect to motor negative
of Red power wire
(battery & motor
positive)
(+)
One-Touch button
'Y' type connection
of Red power wire
(battery & motor
Power Trans-Cap Module
(–)
Black power wire
(battery negative)
Servo plugged into
steering ch. (#1)
P3
Note: You MUST switch ESC to Brush-Mode
(refer to Programming/Gearing sheet P5 for switching between modes)
1. MOTOR CAPACITORS
Electric brush-type motors generate RF noise that causes interference. You
must use three 0.1 F (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors on all motors
to reduce motor noise & prevent ESC damage.
Note: Some motors come with built-in capacitors. If your motor only has 2 capacitors,
you need to install a capacitor between the positive & negative motor tabs––If you
experience radio interference with built-in capacitors only, install external ones.
(+)
Solder 0.1 F (50V) capacitors between:
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
• NEGATIVE (–) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
*If motor has no ground tab (below), solder the capacitors to motor can.
(–)
0.1 F capacitors are available in Novak accessory kit #5620.
2. INSTALLING OPTIONAL SCHOTTKY DIODE
The GTB does not require an external Schottky diode under mild motor
conditions. Use an external Schottky in applications with heavy or repeated
braking (lap after lap), or when using lower turn modified motors to optimize
the ESC's braking and motor performance.
• If using an axial lead Schottky diode as shown in the photo above (older
Novak style--35V/8A min.), solder lead CLOSEST to the silver stripe on the
Schottky diode's body to the POSITIVE (+) motor tab. Solder the lead
OPPOSITE the silver stripe on the body to the NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
• If using the Novak Racing Schottky Motor Module (this is the best performing
Schottky diode available), solder the RED wire from the module to the
POSITIVE (+) motor tab. Solder the BLACK wire from the Schottky module
to the NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
If Schottky diode is installed backwards it will be destroyed. Replace only with Schottky diodes with a
minimum rating of 35 volts/8 amps. Racing Schottky Motor Modules are available in Novak kit #5636.
3. PREP & SOLDER SPEED CONTROL'S RED WIRE
To use the GTB with brush-type motors, the RED power wire must go to
both battery POSITIVE (+) & the POSITIVE (+) motor tab.
Racing Schottky
(–)
Module
Strip 1/4-3/8" piece of insulation from the mid-section of the ESC's RED
silicone power wire where you will solder it to either battery pack POSITIVE
(+) or the POSITIVE (+) motor tab (whatever component is in the middle).
Tin the exposed section of wire with solder.
Solder the exposed section of the ESC's power wire to battery pack
POSITIVE (+) or the POSITIVE (+) motor tab.
(+)
Strip & tin the end of the ESC's RED power wire (after the first connection),
(+)
and solder it to the final component--either battery pack positive (+) or
the positive (+) motor tab.
positive)
Strip 1/4-3/8" piece of insulation from the mid-section of the ESC's RED
silicone power wire where you want to split and go to the motor & battery.
Tin the exposed section of wire with solder.
Slide the supplied piece of heat shrink tubing over the ESC's RED power
wire, and slide it all the way to the ESC.
Strip 1/4" of insulation from the end of another piece of RED silicone
power wire. Twist & tin the wire, then solder it to the tinned section
along the ESC's RED power wire & shrink the tubing over the solder joint
with a heat gun (a lighter or match also works well).
Strip & tin the end of the ESC's RED power wire (after the "Y"), and solder
it to the POSITIVE (+) motor tab.
Cut the other RED power wire (after the "Y"), to the proper length so it
will reach battery pack POSITIVE (+). Strip & tin the end of the wire and
solder it to battery pack POSITIVE (+).
4. SOLDER ESC'S BLACK WIRE TO BATTERY PACK NEGATIVE
(–)
5. PREP & SOLDER ESC'S BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE WIRES
With brush-type motors, the GTB's BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE motor phase
power wires must all go to the NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
Strip 1/8-1/4" of insulation from the end of the BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE
Black power wire
motor phase wires. Twist & tin the end of each of the wires.
(battery negative)
Solder all of the motor phase wires (BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE) to the
NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
Negative (–) motor tab
0.1 F Capacitors
Schottky diode
Positive (+) motor tab
Ground / motor can
(Brush-Mode Only)
(Fig.7)
(Fig.8)
(–)
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