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Open, resonant response.
Drier, more focused response.
Figure 3
When you mount the Full Circle "threads down," the
hot side of the pickup faces the strings. This trans-
lates to more defi ned articulation and attack, with a
slight emphasis on the "string" sound (fi gure 4).
Threads Down
Figure 4
Threads Up
2
When you mount the Full Circle "threads up," the
hot side of the pickup faces the body of the bass.
You'll get a bit more woody acoustic tone this way,
with a rounded attack and less "edge" (fi gure 4).
Lay out the bridge (fi gure 5)
The pickup will work best when the wheel is precisely
centered in the leg. To do this, carefully lay out the
appropriate lines ahead of time. You will be drawing
lines on the side of the bridge that faces the
fi ngerboard.
1. Use the line implied by the outside of each leg to
make parallel vertical lines down to each foot (line A).
Option 1: threads down into the feet:
Make a mark on each leg no less than 1 ¼"
(31.75mm) from the bottom of line A.
Line up a straight edge on the marks and pencil in a
horizontal line on each leg (line B).
To accommodate the thickness of the wheel, make a
parallel set of lines (line C)
Option 2: threads up into the legs
Make a mark on each leg no less than
(16.66mm) from the bottom of line A. Use a straight
edge on the marks and pencil in a horizontal line on
each leg (line B).
To accommodate the thickness of the wheel, make
a parallel set of lines (line C)
line B.
2. Find the center of line B on the face of each leg.
From these points make perpendicular lines down
to the foot (D). Continue across the bottom of the
foot (E).
3. Turn the bridge sideways and make a vertical line,
centered through the taper of the bridge (line F). Go
back to line B and continue it across the thickness of
the bridge, perpendicular to line F (both legs).
4. Finally, center a line (G) across the bottom length
of each foot.
Drill the legs and cut off the feet
Precision is crucial here. Use a drill press and a band
saw or table saw for these procedures.
Make a jig that will allow you to clamp the bridge
and align your layout marks for the drill. Two pieces
of ¾" Plywood or MDF fastened at 90° will do the
job. You will use a countersink, a #9 (5mm) drill bit
and the appropriate tap for this procedure (¼-20 or
6mm). To simplify the job, we recommend that you
use a so-called "extension" tap with a long reduced
diameter shank.
Your drill jig should hold the bridge fi rmly. Line
up the bridge (and shim if necessary) so that lines
D and F are centered with and parallel to the drill
bit. Double sided carpet tape makes an excellent
temporary clamp for the bridge while you drill.
3
⁄
" (9.5mm) below line B.
8
21
⁄
"
32
3
⁄
" (9.5mm) above
8
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