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Bobbin Brownie 7 Assembly Instructions Manual
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Bobbin Brownie 7 Assembly Instructions Manual

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How to assemble your Adult bike
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Summary of Contents for Bobbin Brownie 7

  • Page 1 How to assemble your Adult bike 1  ...
  • Page 2 6. Fitting Mudguard 9. Attaching Front Wheel 11. Handlebar Here’s our step by step guide to assembling your new 13. Kickstand Bobbin. Allow 30-60 minutes to put your bike 14. Saddle together and have it ready to ride. 17. Pedals 18. Bell Happy Cycling! 19.
  • Page 3 Tools You will need a few tools for the job: •  4mm, 5mm and 6mm Allen keys •  15mm and two 10mm spanners •  Phillips screwdriver •  Scissors •  Pump •  Bike grease 3  ...
  • Page 4 UNPACKING •  Stand the bike box upright in a well-lit space big enough for you to work in, and with a flat surface handy for placing tools and parts •  Using the scissors remove and discard all the large staples from the top (this will prevent them scratching either you or the paintwork as you remove the bike) • ...
  • Page 5 UNPACKING (continued) •  Taking care not to scratch the paintwork, remove all the packaging and put it in the empty box. Check the packaging first for any small parts •  Turn the forks the right way around (front brake points forwards), your bike now looks something like this: 5  ...
  • Page 6 FRONT MUDGUARD FITTING If your Bobbin has a 10mm nut behind the fork: •  Unfasten the nut, then fasten the mudguard tab behind the fork like this. Use a 10mm spanner •  Some of our bikes don’t have brakes attached to the fork.
  • Page 7 FRONT MUDGUARD FITTING (continued) If your Bobbin has a 5mm recessed Allen bolt: •  Use a 5mm Allen key, unfasten the bolt, then fasten the mudguard tab in front of the fork like this 7  ...
  • Page 8 FRONT MUDGUARD FITTING (continued) The next step is to attach the mudguard arms to the forks •  First, remove the bolts/nuts that are already attached at the bottom of each fork blade. Use either a 10mm or 8mm spanner, or an allen key • ...
  • Page 9 FRONT WHEEL FITTING •  Check which way round the wheel should go. •  There’s either a rotating direction indicated on the tyre sidewall or the tread shape indicates the direction. 9  ...
  • Page 10 FRONT WHEEL FITTING (continued) •  Loosely fit the washers and domed wheel nuts to the front axle (if the washers are tabbed washers these point inwards) •  Keeping the washers and wheel nuts on the outside of the fork legs, lower the fork onto the wheel. (It’s easier to lower the fork onto the axle from above than the other way around) Important! If you have tabbed...
  • Page 11 QUILL STEM AND HANDLEBAR FITTING •  Remove and discard the plastic cap (if there is one) from the bottom of stem •  Remove and keep the little plastic plug (if there is one) from the head of the stem top bolt 11  ...
  • Page 12 QUILL STEM AND HANDLEBAR FITTING (continued) •  Insert the stem into the hole in the headset (A). The ‘minimum insertion line’ is marked on the stem. Use your allen key to tighten the bolt (B), located at the top. •  Align the handlebars in the stem (choose your angle - horizontal best).

  • Page 13: Kickstand Adjustment

    KICKSTAND ADJUSTMENT (skip this page if your bike doesn’t have a kickstand) •  Flip down the kickstand. If your kickstand has an adjuster screw you can adjust this with a Phillips screwdriver. In the correct position your bike is properly supported and leaning a little to the left 13  ...
  • Page 14 SADDLE AND SEATPOST FITTING If your saddle and seat post are separate: •  Loosen the seatbolt (F) and rotate the top half of the clamp 90 degrees to allow it to fit the saddle •  With the saddle rails sat on the lower clamp, rotate the top half of the clamp back to it’s original position and fasten the seatbolt very tightly (F) • ...
  • Page 15 SADDLE AND SEATPOST FITTING (continued) •  Insert the seat post (G) into the frame. •  Tighten the seat collar (H). •  Note the ‘minimum insertion mark’ printed on the seat post. Setting up your saddle: •  Aim to be standing on tip-toes when you are sitting on the saddle.
  • Page 16 SADDLE AND SEATPOST FITTING (quick release seat post clamp) •  Open up the quick release seat post clamp. •  Insert the seat post into the frame. •  Note the ‘minimum insertion mark’ printed on the seat post. Setting up your saddle: • ...
  • Page 17 PEDAL FITTING Left •  IMPORTANT! Left and Right pedals are NOT the same. Right Force-fitting the wrong one will break your crank. •  The pedals have different thread directions to ensure they remain tight during use. They are marked L and R for left and right, either with a sticker or with a marking on the end of the pedal axle • ...
  • Page 18 BELL FITTING •  The bell goes on the left hand side of the handlebars (so it’s within easy reach of your thumb when you’ve got your hands on the grips) •  The bell is fitted with the Philips screwdriver 18  ...
  • Page 19 REFLECTOR FITTING •  If your bike doesn’t have a painted rear rack (which includes a reflector) it will have a red rear reflector which fits to the sea tpost using the Philips Screwdriver •  The white front reflector will either fit on the handlebar or mount behind the brake caliper depending on your bike model 19  ...
  • Page 20 BRAKE ADJUSTMENT V-BRAKES (skip this step if you don’t have V-brakes) •  Lift the wheel and spin it, it shouldn’t make any noise or drag against the pads •  If noisy, first check the wheel is correctly installed in the middle of the forks.
  • Page 21 BRAKE ADJUSTMENT CALIPER (skip this step if you don’t have caliper brakes) Centring •  Lift the wheel and spin it, it shouldn’t make any noise or drag against the brake pads •  If noisy first check the wheel is correctly installed (centred, mounted correctly) • ...
  • Page 22 BRAKE ADJUSTMENT CALIPER (continued) •  Check how far the brake levers must be pulled to until the brake pads squeeze against the wheel rim •  They should be set up so that the brakes work without having to pull the lever too far • ...
  • Page 23 BRAKE ADJUSTMENT CALIPER (continued) •  If your brakes have a quick-release: - Flip the quick-release lever up so that you can adjust the position of the brake blocks - Flip the quick-release lever down before you ride 23  ...

  • Page 24: Derailleur Gear Adjustment

    DERAILLEUR GEAR ADJUSTMENT Your gears may not need adjusting immediately, but they definitely will do after a few rides. This is because the cables ‘bed-in’ and stretch. This is normal on all new bikes and does not mean it’s broken. It’s just a little adjustment to get the gears in sync again. To shift gears with a derailleur the pedals must be turning.
  • Page 25 DERAILLEUR GEAR ADJUSTMENT (CONTINUED) If you cannot shift into either gear 1 (biggest cog) or 7 (smallest cog) or both, or your derailleur arm is touching the spokes in gear 1, you will need to make an extra adjustment: the limit screws. These are 2 screws on the outside of your derailleur mech.
  • Page 26 CHECK LIST Check before your first ride: - Tyre inflation. The recommended PSI is written on the side of your tyres eg 65-85 PSI - Handlebars are straight and tight - Saddle is set at the correct height and is tight - Wheel nuts are tight - Pedals are attached tightly - Brakes are adjusted correctly...

  • Page 27: Recommended Maintenance

    •  Parts like tyres, brake blocks, brake & gear cables, the chain and freewheel/cassette will wear over time and will need replacing at some point. Bobbin bikes use universal parts that will be available from many retailers but if in doubt please contact us.
  • Page 28 Congratulations. You just assembled your bicycle! Share your photos @bobbinbicycles 28  ...