Baby Lock 55th Anniversary Limited Edition Reference Manual
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Baby Lock 55th Anniversary Limited Edition Reference Manual

Baby Lock 55th Anniversary Limited Edition Reference Manual

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  • Page 2 "IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS" When using an overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using this overlock machine. DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock. 1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this over- lock machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
  • Page 3 2. Ne jamais utiliser la machine si le cordon ou la prise électrique sont endommagés , en cas de dysfonctionnement, de bris ou de dégâts des eaux, vous devez la retourner chez votre reven- deur baby lock ou au centre de service le plus proche pour vérification, réparation, ajustement mécanique ou électrique.
  • Page 5 Your Baby Lock serger is a high quality, dependable machine. It gives you the ability to seam, over- cast and trim all in one operation. Fabrics and threads you previously avoided are now a joy to sew because the Baby Lock serger handles all varieties with equal ease.

  • Page 6: Table Of Contents

    Table of Contents OVERVIEW How Your Serger Operates Overview of the Serger ACCESSORIES Accessories Needles Thread Optional Accessories SERGER SET UP Setting Up Your Serger 8- 9 Threading Your Serger Threading Position for Threading Lower Looper Upper Looper Right Needle Left Needle Needle Threader Looper Thread Fine-Tuning Knob...
  • Page 7 Table of Contents (Cont.) WAVE STITCH Wave Stitch Converting from Normal Serging to Wave 3-Thread Wave Stitch 3-Thread Rolled Wave Stitch ROLLED EDGING Rolled Edging Seaming Sheers Lettuce Edge Belt Loops and Button Loops Returning to Standard Serging BASIC SERGING TECHNIQUES Overedging Seaming Front Cover Seam Guide...

  • Page 8: How Your Serger Operates

    Serging is kind of a knitting process that loops two, three or four threads together to create a stitch. Your Baby Lock serger operates with one or two needles and one or two "loopers," each carrying a thread to form the overlock stitch.
  • Page 9 Overview of the Serger Presser foot thread release lever* Telescopic thread guide and antenna Thread cutter Left side Presser foot pressure adjusting screw Looper thread fine-tuning knob Looper thread fine-tuning knob Carrying handle Needle height Wave viewing area selector Spool stand Needle threader lever Accessory Needle clamp screw...
  • Page 10 Accessories Your Baby Lock serger has a built-in accessory compartment. To open, swing the "lid" on the thread spool stand to the right to reveal the tray holding some of the accessories listed below. Others may be found in the machine packing materials.

  • Page 11: Needles

    Needles Your Baby Lock serger is set up with 90/14 machine needles, which are suitable for most medium and heavy weight fabrics. For lightweight fabrics, change to a size 75/11 needle. The needle's semi-ball point design is suitable for knits and wovens. Some manufacturers' needles may produce better quality stitches with your Baby Lock than others.

  • Page 12: Serger Set Up

    Setting Up Your Serger After removing the packing materials from the box, gently lift your Baby Lock serger by grasping the handle provided on the top of the machine. Place the machine on a serger sewing table or any level surface that provides ample work area to the left of the machine. Place the foot control in a pedal stay, if desired, and place it under the sewing table.

  • Page 13: Setting Up Your Serger

    Setting Up Your Serger (Cont.) When using threads on cones or king spools, place the cone or spool securely over the cone holders furnished on your machine. To avoid bending the thread stand, you may need to place one hand under the stand while positioning the cone. The cone holders prevent the cone or spool from spinning, enabling the thread to feed evenly (fig.

  • Page 14: Threading Your Serger

    Threading Your Serger Your Baby Lock serger is equipped with a Push to Thread Air Threading System for fast, easy threading of the upper and lower loopers. One touch of the "Push to Thread" button will automatically thread the loopers. It is no longer necessary to use tweezers for threading the thread guides.

  • Page 15: Upper Looper

    Upper Looper 1. Lift the presser foot up and move the threading lever to the threading position.( fig. A). Turn the handwheel counterclockwise, until the threading tubes lock (fig. B). 2. Place the thread cone or spool on the far right back spool pin on the thread stand (fig.C page 11). Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "1"...

  • Page 16: Right Needle

    Right Needle 1. With the presser foot up and the machine engaged in the threading position (page 10, fig. A), set the needle threader selector on "R" to thread the right needle (page 13, fig. A ). Note: Be sure to push the needle threader selector all the way to "R". 2.

  • Page 17: Left Needle

    Looper Thread Fine-Tuning Knob No adjustments are needed when sewing with most fabrics and threads on your Baby Lock serger, but certain threads or fabrics may require minor fine-tuning of the looper delivery system to perfect your stitches. Increase or decrease the delivery of the looper threads with the upper and lower looper thread fine-tuning knob.

  • Page 18: Serging With Fabric

    Serging with Fabric With the needle and looper threads under the foot and to the back, lower the presser foot. While holding the threads in your left hand, press down on the foot control gently to begin a thread chain before serging fabric (fig. A). You can leave the presser foot down for most serging appli- cations.

  • Page 19: Thread Delivery System

    Thread Delivery System The Baby Lock serger revolutionizes the way a serger works with its Thread Delivery System. You no longer have to manually adjust the tension settings for the type of stitch you are serging. Select the type of stitch you wish to serge, the serger will automatically feed the correct amount of thread through the loopers and thread guides to form a perfect stitch every time.

  • Page 20: Machine Settings

    Stitch Length / Rolled Hem The stitch length / rolled hem adjusting dial is conveniently located just to the left of the front cover, near the base plate (fig. A). The dial shows two stitch length ranges, from 0.75, for the shortest stitch, to 4 for the longest.

  • Page 21: Differential Feed

    Differential Feed Your Baby Lock serger is equipped with differential feed. The set of feed dogs work independently in order to ensure smooth sewing on all fabrics. The differential feed adjusting lever is located at the ma- chine's right front edge (fig. B). When the lever is set on "N"...

  • Page 22: Disengaging The Upper Cutting Blade

    Disengaging the Upper Cutting Blade When no trimming is desired, as when stitching on a fold, flip the cutting blade lock switch clockwise to the LOCK po- sition. The cutting blade no longer moves up and down, but remains in its lowered position. To re-engage the cutting blade, turn the cutting blade lock switch half of a turn count- er-clockwise.

  • Page 23: -Thread Overlock

    4-Thread Overlock With the Baby Lock Thread Delivery System, the upper and lower looper threads lock together evenly over the cut fabric edge(s) to form a flat, non-rolling pattern of overlocking stitches on both sides of the fabric. The left needle thread interlocks with both looper threads at the stitching line to create the seam.

  • Page 24: 3-Thread Overlock

    3-Thread Overlock-Wide The 3-thread overlock wide stitch is perfect for edge-finish- ing most woven fabrics and for seaming knits that do not require the extra durability that a fourth thread provides. It's easy to convert your serger to serge with 3 threads by simply eliminating either needle.

  • Page 25: 3-Thread Overlock-Narrow

    3-Thread Overlock-Narrow It's easy to convert your serger to serge a narrow seam with 3 threads by simply eliminating the left needle. To convert to narrow 3-thread overlock (3.0-3.5mm), cut the left needle thread (fig. A). Remove the left needle and left needle thread completely from the machine.

  • Page 26: 3-Thread Overlock-Narrow Hem

    3-Thread Overlock-Narrow Hem Narrow hemming is an attractive finish for light to medium to heavy weight fabrics. Remove the left needle and left needle thread completely from the machine. Clear the stitch fingers. Turn the stitch length adjusting dial counter-clockwise to the rolled hem range.

  • Page 27: Rolled Edge

    Rolled Edge The rolled edge setting is used to achieve the narrowest stitch possible (1.5mm) on your Baby Lock serger. This stitch is preferred for seaming sheer and lightweight fabrics and for edging and hemming lightweight fabrics. 3-Thread Rolled Edge With the stitch selector set on "D", a narrow hem will become a rolled edge.

  • Page 28: 3-Thread Flatlock

    3-Thread Flatlock Flatlock seams are most suited to fabrics which do not ravel such as interlock knits, tricot, sweatshirt fleece and synthetic suede. The needle thread is carried below the fabric and to the cut edge of the fabric. The lower looper thread rides along the cut edge of the fabric for stability.

  • Page 29: 2-Thread Overlock

    2-Thread Overlock The 2-thread function provides an economical and less bulky means of overedging all fabrics. The standard 2-thread overlock is the same as a 2-thread flatlock stitch. When sewn with specialty threads, 2-thread sewing makes decorative seams and edges for activewear, children's clothing , ruffles, and hemlines.

  • Page 30: 2-Thread Flatlock - Wide

    2-Thread Flatlock – Wide Sew 2-thread flatlock seams in the same way as 3-thread flatlock seams (page 26), then pull the two fabric layers apart until the seam lies flat (fig. A). Because the threads show on the outside as well as the inside of the garment or project, the 2-thread flatlock seam is often considered a dec- orative application (fig.

  • Page 31: 2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

    2-Thread Flatlock – Narrow Sew a 2-thread flatlock seam then pull the two fabric layers apart until the seam lies flat (fig. A). Because the threads show on the outside as well as the inside of the garment or project, the flatlock seam is often considered a decorative application (fig.

  • Page 32: Flatlock "Topstitching

    Flatlock "Topstitching" The flatlock stitch need not be limited at seamlines. When sewn on a fold, flatlocking can create attractive decorative effects within the body of a garment or project. Either follow placement lines on your pattern or design your own special effects by stitching the fabric before laying out pattern pieces.

  • Page 33: Blind Hemming

    Blind Hemming Your Baby Lock serger can create a sturdy, nearly invis- ible blind hem. 1. Set the machine for 2-Thread Overlock-Narrow Flatlock with the right needle threaded (page.27). Set the stitch width at 5.0 and the stitch length at 4.0 in the standard range.

  • Page 34: Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch

    Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch Set up the machine for 2-thread flatlock-wide but the needle threading path is different for this technique. 1. Insert a size 90 topstitch needle in left overlock needle position. 2. Engage the threading lever in the threading position. 3.

  • Page 35: Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch

    Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch Note: The threading path for the needle thread is different in Ladder Right Right this technique. Please refer to the Quick Reference Threading Side Side Right Guide or illustration below. Side Wrong Wrong 1. Insert a size 90 topstitch needle in left overlock needle position. Side Side 2.

  • Page 36: Returning To 3 Or 4-Thread Overlock

    Returning to 3 or 4-Thread Overlock 1. Open the front cover and rotate the handwheel counterclockwise to bring the needle clamp to its highest position. 2. Slide the subsidiary looper to the left direction and swing it clockwise to the right. 3.

  • Page 37: Wave Stitch Wave Stitch

    Wave Stitch The Wave stitch provides a decorative "wavy" edging on fabric. (This is not to be confused with "Lettuce Edge" on page 36). The upper looper thread and the lower looper thread gradually appear every 25 stitches to create a stitch that looks like a "Wave". When using different color specialty threads (pages 46-47) for the upper or lower loopers, the Wave stitch creates an attractive stitch for edging.

  • Page 38: 3-Thread Wave Stitch

    3-thread Wave Stitch 1. Turn the Wave/Overlock Selector lever from "OVERLOCK to "WAVE". 2. Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths. 3. Engage the threading lever to the threading position (page 10). 4. Place the right needle thread cone on the second spool pin on left. 5.

  • Page 39: 3-Thread Rolled Wave Stitch

    3-Thread Rolled Wave Stitch 1. Turn the Wave/Overlock Selector lever from "OVERLOCK to "WAVE". 2. Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths. 3. Engage the threading lever to the threading position (page 10). 4. Place the right needle thread cone on the second spool pin on left. 5.

  • Page 40: Rolled Edging

    Rolled Edging To convert to "ROLLED EDGE", please refer to page 23 to change the settings and threading. Seaming Sheers Use the 3-thread rolled hem setting when sewing sheer fabrics that otherwise would require French seams. Set the stitch length at 2.5. Then simply sew the seams, aligning the fabric edges with the serger seam guide, trimming away the excess seam allowance.

  • Page 41: Basic Serging Techniques

    Overedging Overedging to finish facings, hems and seams before construction, is one of the most basic uses of a serger, such as making a garment or project with 5/8 inch (16mm) pressed open seams (fig. A). To overedge, place the single layer of fabric in front of the presser foot, aligning the cut edge with upper cutting blade.
  • Page 42 Securing Ends The serger stitch will not unravel readily, and in most cases serged seams are secured by an intersecting seam. If that's not the case, there are several options for securing a seam (fig. A). 1. Leave a 3 inch (7.5cm) chain, separate the threads and tie a knot.

  • Page 43: Securing Ends

    Securing Ends (Cont.) To lock the end of the seam: 1. Take one stitch off the end of the seam (fig. F). 2. Raise the presser foot and bring the needle(s) to the highest position. Pull back gently on the fabric to clear the stitch fingers.

  • Page 44: Turning Outside Corners

    Turning Outside Corners 1. Stitch along one edge until you reach the corner. Take one stitch off the edge of the fabric (fig. A). (As you ap- proach the edge, you may want to stop and manually turn the handwheel towards you.) 2.

  • Page 45: Serging Curves

    Serging Curves To serge around inside or outside curves, guide the fabric into the cutting blade, not the needle(s). Remember, cutting takes place before the fabric reaches the needle. Because the long serger presser foot holds the fabric more securely, you may need to raise and lower the presser foot several times to maneuver around very tight curves.

  • Page 46: Using Specialty Threads

    Using Specialty Threads Beautiful stitches can be formed by serging with specialty threads, cords and ribbons. These heavier or shinier threads can be used to enhance the appearance, add strength or elasticity, or create special effects, depending on the thread you choose. Some specialty threads work well through the needle and loopers.

  • Page 47: Thread Cradle For Loopers

    Thread Cradle for Loopers 1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. At the threading port, clip the looper thread that is to be re- placed (fig.A). Remove thread from under the foot and the upper thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread.

  • Page 48: Looper Threading Tool

    Looper Threading Tool 1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. At the threading port, cut the looper thread that is to be replaced. Remove thread from under the foot and the upper thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread.

  • Page 49: Bypassing The Threading Port

    Bypassing the Threading Port Heavy weight threads can be used through your regular looper thread paths. Specific techniques may require that the thread bypass the thread port for the thread pull to be loosened. Start with the machine threaded with overlock thread.

  • Page 50: Specialty Thread Guide Chart

    Specialty Thread Guide Chart Topstitching Woolly Nylon Machine Embroidery Buttonhole Twist Thread Metallic Threads Edging or flatlock Soft stretchy seams on Decorative edges for seaming for lingerie, swimwear, clothing, gift items, sportswear and home activewear, and for home décor, etc. APPLICATION décor items.
  • Page 51 Specialty Thread Guide Chart (Cont.) Machine Embroidery Designer 6 Threads: Rayon and Pearl Crown Rayon Clear Nylon Polyester, 30, 40, 50 Candlelight Monofilament weight. Jeans Stitch, Ribbon Lingerie Thread Thread Techniques Lingerie and lightweight Decorative edging, requiring the thread fabrics, edging of fine flat-locking, rolled hem, APPLICATION to be invisible such as...

  • Page 52: Maintenance

    The lower fixed blade is made of a special long lasting steel and does not require frequent replacement. If necessary, contact your nearest Baby Lock retailer for replace- ment of this blade. The upper moving blade is made of a softer steel material and will require replacement.

  • Page 53: Cleaning

    Cleaning Your Baby Lock serger will operate at best performance if it is kept clean at all times. The serger's cutting action creates much more lint than you will find on conventional sewing machine. Your serger's major moving parts are well protected and do not need to be oiled.

  • Page 54: Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting Before taking your machine in for service, check the following: Machine fails to start: 1. Are electrical plugs properly connected? 2. Is the power switch on? 3. Check household circuit breaker or fuse. 4. Is the threading lever in the serging position? 5.

  • Page 55: Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting (Cont.) Needle threading difficulties: 1. Is the needle threader selector at the appropriate setting? ("R" for right needle, "L" for left needle.) 2. Is the threading lever in the serging position? Looper threading difficulties: 1. Is the machine engaged in the threading position? 2.

  • Page 56: Technical Data

    Technical Data Stitch Types: 2 needles, 2 loopers: 4-Thread Overlock 1 needle (left or right), 2 loopers 3-Thread Overlock (wide, narrow, and narrow hem) 3-Thread Flatlock (narrow) right needle only 3-Thread Rolled Edge 3-Thread Wave 3-Thread Rolled Wave 1 needle (left or right), 1 looper 2-Thread Flatlock (wide and narrow) 2-Thread Blanket Stitch 2-Thread Ladder Stitch...

  • Page 57: Chart For Stitch Selection Settings

    Chart for Stitch Selection Settings Stitch Stitch Stitch Differential Wave Stitch Type Needle Page Length Width Selector Feed Selector Left 4-Thread 2.5-3.5 6.0-7.5 Overlock Right Left 4-Thread 6.0-7.5 Gathering Right 3-Thread Overlock Left Wide Narrow 3.0-3.5 Right 3-Thread Narrow 0.75R-4.0R Right N-0.6 3-Thread...
  • Page 58 BLE3ATW-3-TA EI - 31 ( 2N )-3 - TA Printed in Japan...

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