ANNIN ROBOTICS AR4-MK3 Manual

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AR4-MK3 Robot Manual

Version 1.2

FREE DESIGN 6 AXIS ROBOT

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Page 1 AR4-MK3 Robot Manual Version 1.2 FREE DESIGN 6 AXIS ROBOT...
Page 2: Table Of Contents
Contents: Electrical Safety • Overview • Chapter 1 – Robot Bill of Materials • Chapter 2 – Robot Assembly • Chapter 3 – Pneumatic Gripper • Chapter 4 – Servo Gripper • Chapter 5 – Addition Axis • Chapter 6 – Spec’s / Diagrams •...
Page 3: Electrical Safety
Electrical Safety ELECTRIC SHOCK HAZARD. The construction of this control enclosure poses potential  exposure to alternating current and direct current which has the potential to cause injury or death. This equipment should be constructed and serviced by trained or qualified persons.
Page 4: Overview
The AR4 is an open design 6 axis robot that anyone can build. All software, print files and manuals are available for download on the Annin Robotics website downloads page. All the components you need to build this robot are outlined in Chapter 1. The assembly of the robot arm is outlined in Chapter 2.
Page 5 General Robot Assembly notes: • Use medium strength thread locker on all screws. • All belts should be tensioned using moderate tension (do not over tighten or stress belts or components). Tools & Materials Needed: • General hand tools including metric hex key set, locking pliers, wire cutters, wire strippers. •...
Page 6 3D Printing Your Robot: This manual shows the construction of the robot using aluminum for the main structural components but the robot can also be constructed using all 3D printed components. The .stl print files for all components are here: https://www.anninrobotics.com/downloads construction illustrated in this manual is the same using either aluminum or 3D printed components - note the following details if using 3D printed components:...
Page 7 Using Braided Sleeve Several Steps in this manual will call for braided sleeve to be placed over electrical wires. Make sure that as soon as you cut any braided sleeve you use a lighter or flame to carefully melt the ends of the sleeve as shown.
Page 8 Soldering Wire Connections Several steps in this manual will call for soldering and heat shrinking wire connections together. Strip wire ends of both wires and twist wire strands. Insert length of heat shrink tube over one of the wire ends. Use soldering iron and rosin core electrical solder to pre apply solder to the...
Page 9 Use soldering iron to melt solder on both wire ends so that wire ends are overlapping and solder forms a complete bond between the two wire ends. Slide the heat shrink tube over the solder joint and then use a lighter flame to shrink the tubing over the joint.
Page 10 Removing jacket and shielding from continuous flex Cat6 cable Install razor blade into 3D printed CF Cat6 Jacket Stripper and then feed cable through the round passage in tool. The jacket will be split as it passes through and you can then peel off the jacket.
Page 11 Several steps in the manual will call for removing a length of shielding from the end of Cat6 cable. In this example I will remove 12cm of shielding. In one hand pinch the cable at the position you want to remove the shielding from.
Page 12 At the 12cm pinch point use a pair of sharp point cutters to get under the bunched up shielding. CAUTION : be extremely careful to only get cutter blade under the shielding, it is very easy to accidentally snag and cut one of the wires.
Page 13 Carefully cut remaining shielding around perimeter of cable. Remove shielding as shown.
Page 14 Remove and cut green wrap as shown. Separate plastic center core and carefully cut and remove.
Page 15: Chapter 1 - Robot Bill Of Materials
CHAPTER 1 ROBOT BILL OF MATERIALS • STRUCTRUAL COMPONENTS KIT • These components are part of the AR4 build kit at https://www.anninrobotics.com/robot-kits • HARDWARE COMPONENTS KIT • These components are part of the AR4 build kit at https://www.anninrobotics.com/robot-kits • ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS KIT •...
Page 16: Structural Components
Structural Components J1 BASE PLATE J1 TURRET HOUSING J1 SPINDLE J1 PLATFORM...
Page 17 J2 TURRET HOUSING J2 ARM J2 DRIVE SPINDE J2 TENSION RING...
Page 18 J1 & J3 MOTOR MOUNTS J2 MOTOR SUPPORT J3 BEARING CUP J3 SPINDLE...
Page 19 J3 SPINDLE RETAINER J4 TURRET HOUSING J4 MAIN SHAFT J5 MOTOR MOUNT (see note below on making your own J4 main shaft if you are not using aluminum parts kit and are 3D printing your robot)
Page 20 J4 MOTOR MOUNT J5 BELT CARRIER & J5 BELT CARRIER CLAMP J5 HOUSING J5 BEARING POST...
Page 21 J5 IDLER TENSION BLOCK J6 MAIN BEARING ARM J6 HOUSING J6 BEARING CAP...
Page 22 J6 GRIPPER MOUNT...
Page 23 Hardware Components Qty. (2) 32009 (45x75x20mm) taper roller Qty. (2) 30206 (30x62x17.25mm) taper bearing. roller bearing. Qty. (1) 30204 (20x47x15.25mm) taper Qty. (1) AXK3552/AS3552 (35x52x4mm) roller bearing. thrust bearing with washers. Qty.(3) NTA1625 (1.00x1.5625x0.0781 Qty.(4) TRA1625 (1.000x1.5625x0.0312 inch) thrust bearing. inch) thrust washers.
Page 24 Qty.(2) TRD1625 (1.000x1.5625x0.125 Qty.(2) B1616 (1x1-1/4x1 inch) needle inch) thrust washers. roller bearing. Qty. (1) HK1612 (16x22x12mm) needle Qty.(2) 3mm x 85mm shaft. roller bearing. (If sourcing the parts yourself these are typically sold in lengths of 100mm so you would need to cut them down to 85mm) Qty.(2) 3mm ID x 7mm OD x 20mm long Qty.(1) 688Z (8x16x5mm) groove ball...
Page 25 Qty.(1) 60T XL pulley. Qty.(1) 30203 (17x40x13.25mm) taper roller bearing. (If sourcing your own parts this can be purchased from Amazon or Servo City as a black phenolic material which works fine - there is also a 3D print file for this part) Qty.(1) 214-L Timing Belt Qty.
Page 26 Qty (2) L10 Pulleys (long and short) Qty.(2) XL 15 tooth 8mm bore. (one of them needs a 3mm key broach, the Annin Robotics hardware kit comes with a broached pulley but if you are sourcing your own parts they are not commonly broached for a key shaft) Qty.(1) XL 10 tooth 6mm bore pulley...
Page 27 Machine Screws / Fasteners #6 x .375 Thread Form Screw M2.5 x 6 Pan Head screw M2.5 x 8 Pan Head screw M3 x 6 Button Head screw M3 x 30 Pan Head screw M3x10 Flat Head Screw M3x10 Set Screw Screw M3x14 Pan Head Screw M3x14 Socket Head Screw M3x16 Socket Head Screw...
Page 28: Electrical Components
Electrical Components 20awg flexible silicone wire in the following colors: • Black • Blue • Green • 3.2 meters of each color. Continuous flex Cat6 cable 26awg shielded. (This needs to be stranded flex wire) 6.6 meters...
Page 29 Standard Cat5 cable. (solid core wire is fine) 50cm 20awg 2 conductor black and red wire.. 37cm...
Page 30 ¼” braided sleeve. 3 meters ¾” braided sleeve. 1.65 meters...
Page 31 PG-21 gland nut. Qty (2) RJ-45 Keystone Jack. Qty (2)
Page 32 USB-C 90 degree Keystone Jack. Qty(1) Micro USB to USB-C cable 20cm long Qty(1)
Page 33 SV-166-1C25 Limit Switch. Qty (4) 10T85 Limit Switch Qty (2)
Page 34 5.5mm DC power jack socket. Qty (1). KCD1 SPST rocker switch. Qty (1).
Page 35 40mm 24vdc brushless cooling fan. Qty (1). 3 Position Double Row Terminal Block. Qty (1).
Page 36 Teensy 4.1 (with pins) Qty (1). Terminal Block Breakout Board Module - Teensy 4.1 Qty (1).
Page 37 GX16-4 aviation plugs. Qty (2). PBS-110 push button switch Qty (1).
Page 38 3D Printed Components You will need to 3D print the robots covers and spacers. See downloads page https://www.anninrobotics.com/downloads for .stl print files. Covers and spacers can be printed in any color of your choosing – in this robot build I have chosen orange covers and black logos.
Page 39 J2 SIDE COVER J2 ARM COVER SPACER Please note: if you don’t have a large bed Please note: if you don’t have a large bed printer this part is available to print in 2 printer this part is available to print in 2 pieces –...
Page 40 J5 SIDE COVER J2 & J5 ARM COVER LOGOS J2 Stop J3 Stop...
Page 41 J4 MOTOR SPACER – 4mm J2 SPACER YGS J5 Bearing Post Spacer J4 Timing Hub...
Page 42 J4 Limit Switch Mount J5 Motor bracket J6 Limit Contact J6 Limit Switch Mount...
Page 43 CF Cat6 Jacket Stripper This is a tool you can print to assist in removing the outer jacket of the continuous flex Cat6 cable.
Page 44 Stepper Motors & Drivers All motors are available from Stepperonline. There is a link on the robot kits page to a complete discounted motor, driver and power supply kit from Stepperonline. https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/ https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/ J1 gear head motor SKU: 17HS15-1684D- EG10-AR4 J2 gear head motor 23HS22-2804D- SKU:...
Page 45 J3 gear head motor SKU: 17HS15-1684D- EG50-AR4 J4 gear head motor SKU: 11HS20-0674D- EGS16-AR4...
Page 46 J5 linear drive motor 17LS19-1684E-200G-AR4 Note: the motor lead screw comes with a POM nut which can be black or white depending on production. Make sure to remove POM nut from lead screw prior to assembly. J6 gear head motor SKU:14HS11-1004D- EGS20-AR4 NOTE: MAKE SURE TO...
Page 47 DM332T digital stepper driver. You will need (3) of these drivers for axis 1,2,3, of the robot. Drivers and motors are available factory direct from Stepperonline. (see link on robot kits page). DM320T digital stepper driver. You will need (3) of these drivers for axis 4,5,6, of the robot.
Page 48 (1) Bracket for the J4 motor #SKU: ST-M3 https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/ https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/...
Page 49 CHAPTER 2 ROBOT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS...
Page 50 Carefully remove all build structure from the J1 BASE ENCLOSURE. Use 2mm or 0.080” drill to clear or clean out the (6) holes in the bottom of the enclosure. Please note: if you don’t have a large bed printer this part is available to print in 2 pieces that can be epoxied together –...
Page 51 Remove 3D print build structure from counterbore holes on both sides of base enclosure, and the clean or clear center of hole with 3.5mm or .140” drill. Partially screw in (6) of the #6 thread form screws as shown. Only screw them in a couple threads for now.
Page 52 Place #6 thread form screw in to the left side slot of the DM332T driver as shown and then lower the drive into position. NOTE: The screw can be held in position with Phillips head screw driver as its lowered down into position. Use Phillips head screw driver to snug the left side screw as the driver is...
Page 53 Repeat this process for the remaining (2) DM332T drivers as shown. NOTE: The (3) DM332T drivers should be installed on the left side of the enclosure as shown in the photo. Repeat the driver installation process for the (3) DM320T drivers as shown.
Page 54 Remove all build structure from 3D printed Base Enclosure Fan Cover then install the 5.5mm power jack as shown. Install rocker switch as shown. Rocker switch will snap into position.
Page 55 Cut 13cm lengths of the 20awg 2 conductor black and red wire. Solder and heat shrink 13cm red wire to extend the rocker switch red wire so that the total length of the red wire is 22cm long.
Page 56 Cut the rocker switch black wire as shown leaving 50mm of wire extended from the rocker switch. Strip 3mm of sheathing from the end of the black 13cm long 20awg wire and then solder the wire to the 5.5mm power sockets ground connection tab as shown.
Page 57 Remove 3mm of sheathing from the rocker switch black wire and then solder the rocker switch black wire to the positive center terminal on the 5.5mm power jack as shown. NOTE: the positive terminal is the one in the center of the power jack. Make sure solder connections to each of the power jack terminals are...
Page 58 Insert 40mm cooling fan into housing as shown. The fan label should be facing out. NOTE: The fan is a snug slip fit into housing and is not secured with any fasteners. Feed the red and black power wires as well as the cooling fan wires through the base enclosure access hole as shown.
Page 59 Secure fan enclosure to the base enclosure as shown using (4) #4 plastic thread form screws. Connect the red power wire to the +Vdc terminal on the far right driver. Connect the black power wire to the GND terminal on the far right driver. NOTE: the green connection socket to the driver will need to be pulled...
Page 60 Cut (5) pairs of red and black 20awg wires. The wires should be 48mm in length. Strip 3mm of sheathing from the ends of each wire. Use the (5) pairs of wires to jumper the +Vdc and GND circuit across all 6 drivers as shown.
Page 61 Cut the cooling fan wires as shown. 110mm of cooling fan wires will be removed. Remove 4mm of sheathing from ends of the cooling fan wires. The cooling fan wires are very thin. I would suggest “tinning” the wires – apply electrical solder to the ends of the wires to strengthen them.
Page 62 Connect the fan red wire to the far left drivers +Vdc terminal along with the red jumper wire as shown. Connect the ran black wire to the far left drivers GND terminal along with the black jumper wire as shown. Use M4 tap to thread (2) holes as shown in J1 base enclosure.
Page 63 Secure J1 base plate to J1 enclosure assembly using (2) M4x20 pan head machine screws. NOTE: these screws are meant to hold base plate to enclosure for assembly and transport purposes only – when assembly is complete and you are ready to use your robot you will need to secure robot to table or work surface using 8mm...
Page 64 Install #32009 bearing on J1 spindle as shown. (See notes on bearing fit in overview section) Insert J1 spindle into turret housing then install the other #32009 bearing on top side of spindle. NOTE: Apply a small amount of bearing grease to bearings prior to assembly.
Page 65 Install M8 x 10 cap screw into J1 platform as shown. The head of this is screw will contact the J1 limit switch. Press (x2) #30206 bearing races into the J2 turret housing. (you will need to do this for both races on each side) (See notes on bearing fit in overview section)
Page 66 Secure J2 turret housing to J1 platform using (3) M6x18 flat head screws. Install (2) M6 x 20 socket head screws in front of J2 turret housing going into the J1 platform.
Page 67 Install platform assembly onto J1 spindle assembly and secure with (5) M6 X 14 socket head cap screws. Install (4) M4 x 10 set screws in the 4 perimeter holes in the platform. These place tension on the upper bearing. Snug the 4 set screws down evenly until there is no play in the bearings.
Page 68 Please note that the J1 spindle and platform should rotate freely. The gap between the J1 platform and the J2 housing (yellow arrow) is meant to be a tight or thin gap to prevent contaminants from easily getting into the bearing area.
Page 69 Secure J1 turret assembly to J1 base from the bottom using (8) M4x10 socket head cap screws. Note orientation of limit switch flat in next step prior to installing. Make sure limit switch flat is facing toward rear as indicated by red lines in this image.
Page 70 Install 3mm key into J1 (SKU: 17HS15-1684D- EG10-AR4) motor shaft as shown. The motor keys are shipped from Stepperonline in a small zip bag supplied with the motor paperwork and manuals. Secure J1 motor mount to J1 motor using (4) M4x10 flat head screws.
Page 71 Install XL15 tooth 8mm bore drive sprocket on J1 gear motor shaft, make sure key is aligned in pulley slot and secure with (2) M3x4 set screws. Make sure the lower flange of pulley is set at a distance of 11mm as indicated by the red arrow.
Page 72 Install motor assembly onto base and secure with (4) M4 X 20 socket head cap screws and (4) washers but do not fully tighten until after belt is tensioned. NOTE: Make sure (2) 3mm tension holes located on ends of slots are facing toward back (yellow arrow).
Page 73 Make sure the (4) 4mm X 20 socket head cap screws securing the motor to the baseplate are slightly loose so that motor can slide to apply belt tension. Tension J1 belt using (x2) M3x10 set screws in rear of motor mount slots.
Page 74 Once belt has moderate tension tighten the (4) 4mm X 20 socket head cap screws securing the motor to the baseplate. Install (2) PG-21 gland nuts into base enclosure as shown.
Page 75 Separate the J1 motor wires from the J1 encoder wires and then wrap a small length of tape around the motor wires. Any tape can be used (I have used red electrical tape). This tape wrap is simply so that you can identify the motor wires once the wires are pulled into the enclosure.
Page 76 Route the J1 wires with braided sleeve into the J1 enclosure as shown. Cut (2) lengths of solid strand Cat5 cable to lengths of 145mm.
Page 77 Remove outer sheathing from cable lengths. Set the orange pairs of wires aside and then strip the ends of the blue, green and brown pairs of wires.
Page 78 Insert one of the blue pairs of wire into the J1 driver on the far left. The solid blue wires goes to the “PUL” terminal. The striped wire goes to the “DIR” terminal. Insert one of the green pairs of wire into the J2 driver as shown.
Page 79 Insert one of the brown pairs of wires into the J3 driver as shown. The solid brown wire goes to the “PUL” terminal. The striped wire goes to the “DIR” terminal. Repeat the previous (3) steps and install a blue pair of wires into the J4 driver, a green pair of wires into the J5 driver and a brown pair...
Page 80 With the remaining lengths of orange pair wires – separate the solid color from the stripe color wires. Cut the solid orange wires into lengths of 43mm and strip the ends of (5) of them. Do not cut the stripe wires. Install the (5) lengths of solid color orange wire from the “OPTO”...
Page 81 Install (1) of the remaining 130mm long orange stripe wires to the “OPTO” terminal on the far left J1 driver as shown. Cut (1) length of solid strand Cat5 cable to a length of 210mm.
Page 82 Remove outer sheathing from cable. Insert the brown stripe wire into terminal #7 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Insert the solid brown wire into terminal #8 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack.
Page 83 Use a keystone punch down tool to seat and trim both wires into the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Insert the orange stripe wire into terminal #1 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Insert the solid orange wire into terminal #2 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack.
Page 84 Insert the green stripe wire into terminal #3 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Insert the solid green wire into terminal #6 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Then use a keystone punch down tool to seat and trim both wires into the CAT6 Keystone Jack.
Page 85 Carefully remove all build structure from the J1 BASE ENCLOSURE TRAY. Use 2mm or 0.080” drill to clear or clean out the (2) hinge holes on each side as shown. Install the CAT6 Keystone Jack as shown in the right socket of the J1 enclosure tray.
Page 86 Insert the USB-C end of the USB extension cable into the USB-C 90° Keystone Jack as shown in photo. Install USB-C 90° Keystone Jack into left socket of J1 enclosure tray as shown in photo.
Page 87 Install Teensy 4.1 control board into the terminal breakout board as shown. Install Teensy 4.1 and breakout board into J1 enclosure tray as shown and secure with (2) #6 thread form screws. NOTE: the USB connector should be oriented to the left side as shown in photo (yellow arrow).
Page 88 Plug Micro USB end of cable into Teensy 4.1 board and tuck cable down and to the left as shown. Install the 3 position terminal block into the J1 enclosure tray as shown and secure with (2) #6 thread form screws.
Page 89 Route the Brown Stripe wire from CAT6 keystone jack along breakout board as shown. Trim wire to length as shown, strip wire end and then insert and secure to terminal 32 of breakout board. NOTE: Also see wiring schematics section of manual.
Page 90 Route the Green Stripe wire from CAT6 keystone jack along breakout board as shown. Trim wire to length as shown, strip wire end and then insert and secure to terminal GND of breakout board where shown. Route the solid Green wire from CAT6 keystone jack along breakout board as shown.
Page 91 Route the solid Orange wire from CAT6 keystone jack along breakout board as shown. Trim wire to length as shown, strip wire end and then insert and secure to terminal 13 of breakout board. Route the Orange Stripe wire from CAT6 keystone jack along breakout board as shown.
Page 92 In the J1 main enclosure separate the 4 motor wires from the encoder wires (these are the 4 wires that were taped previously) and cut the wires as shown so that they are the appropriate length to reach the J1 driver terminals. The wires should be approx..
Page 93 Install the J1 enclosure try onto the main base enclosure as shown. Secure tray to base using (2) #6 thread form screws installed at the hinge locations on both sides (yellow arrow). Use (3) of the remaining motors wires (red, black, blue) and connect them to the breakout board connectors as follows:...
Page 94 Route the red, black and blue wires along breakout board as shown, trim and strip wire ends and connect them to the 3 position terminal block as follows: 3.3V BLUE to left terminal. GND BLACK to center. 5V red to right terminal. NOTE: it can be difficult to maneuver the wire ends under the terminal, I've...
Page 95 Connect the blue wires coming from the J1 driver to the teensy board as follows: J1 driver “PUL” (solid blue) connect to terminal “0” J1 driver “DIR” (blue stripe) connect to terminal “1” Connect the green wires coming from the J2 driver to the teensy board as follows: J2 driver “PUL”...
Page 96 Connect the brown wires coming from the J3 driver to the teensy board as follows: J3 driver “PUL” (solid brown) connect to terminal “4” J3 driver “DIR” (brown stripe) connect to terminal “5” Connect the blue wires coming from the J4 driver to the teensy board as follows: J4 driver “PUL”...
Page 97 Connect the green wires coming from the J5 driver to the teensy board as follows: J5 driver “PUL” (solid green) connect to terminal “8” J5 driver “DIR” (green stripe) connect to terminal “9” Connect the brown wires coming from the J6 driver to the teensy board as follows: J6 driver “PUL”...
Page 98 Cut and remove the J1 encoder green, yellow, orange and white wires as they are not used. Save the remaining wires for a future step. Connect J1 encoder black wire to center GND terminal of 3 position terminal block (yellow arrow).
Page 99 Connect J1 encoder red wire to right 5V terminal of 3 position terminal block (yellow arrow). Route J1 encoder blue wire to terminal 14 as shown and cut to length. Strip wire end and connect to terminal 14.
Page 100 Route J1 encoder brown wire to terminal 15 as shown and cut to length. Strip wire end and connect to terminal 15. Use the remainder wire from the J1 encoder and solder the green wire to the side “COM” terminal. Solder the orange wire to the center “NO”...
Page 101 I recommend coating the exposed terminals with liquid electrical tape. Cut length of ¼” braided sleeve to a length of 15.5cm long then route the J1 limit switch wires through the sleeve as shown. It is recommended to use a lighter to slightly singe the ends of the braided sleeve to prevent the braided...
Page 102 Use (2) M3x14 Philips pan head screws to secure switch to J1 housing as shown in photo. Route the J1 limit switch sleeve (red arrow) into the left PG21 gland nut as shown and route the green, orange and yellow wires into the base enclosure as shown in photo.
Page 103 Route and terminate the J1 limit switch orange wire to the left 3.3v terminal on the 3 terminal block (blue arrow). Route and terminate the J1 limit switch yellow wire to the center GND terminal on the 3 terminal block (yellow arrow).
Page 104 Install J2 spindle into J2 arm as shown using (8) M4x10 flat head screws. (green arrow). Make sure J2 spindle keyway is oriented up as shown (red arrow). Make sure J3 limit switch mounting holes are oriented to right side as shown (blue arrow).
Page 105 Install M3x10 set screw into J2 spindle as shown but do not thread through to keyway yet. Install J2 arm assembly into J2 turret housing and then install the other #30206 bearing from opposite side as shown. NOTE: Apply a small amount of bearing grease to bearings prior to assembly.
Page 106 Install J2 tension ring and secure with (6) M3x10 flat head screws. Make sure tension ring is 90° to the J2 arm and that the keyway slot in tension ring aligns with keyway slot in J2 spindle. Install (4) M4x5 set screws and tighten until there is no play in J2 bearings.
Page 107 Install the 3D printed J2 Stop as shown. This part is a press fit onto the J1 platform cap screw heads. This part prevents the J2 arm from collapsing too far. For joint 2 cut length of continuous flex Cat6 cable to a length of 70cm long and remove outer jacket.
Page 108 Remove 15cm of shielding from one end of the cable and remove 10cm of shielding from the other end. (see overview section on removing shielding) The end with 15cm of shielding removed will be the end of the cable that is routed to the base enclosure.
Page 109 Solder orange wire to “NO” terminal of SV-166-1C25 roller tip limit switch. Solder white with orange stripe wire to the “NC” terminal. Solder the white with green stripe wire to the “COM” terminal. Note: the green wire is not used. (also see wiring diagrams in chapter 4) It is recommended to use...
Page 110 Use (2) M3x14 Philips pan head screws to secure switch to J2 housing as shown in photo. Remove the (4) M4 cap screws from the shaft side flange on the 23HS22- 2804D-YGS50-AR4 gear Carefully remove the shaft side flange as shown.
Page 111 Install the 3D printed “J2 spacer YGS” onto the gearbox as shown. Make sure the recessed or dished side of the spacer is facing toward the motor. Install J2 motor mount over J2 motor gear box housing as shown. Make sure the motor wires are oriented to the right as shown in the photo.
Page 112 Carefully re-install the shaft side flange on to the 23HS22- 2804D-YGS50-AR4 gear box as shown. Be very careful to make sure the gears align correctly putting it back on. Re-install and tighten the (4) M4 cap screws. NOTE: the key is shipped separately by Stepperonline in a small zip bag –...
Page 113 Replace the screw you just removed with a M4x45 fully threaded pan head screws. The 45mm long fully threaded screws should protrude all the way through the J2 3D printed spacer and the J2 motor mount plate. Install M4 washer and nut to secure motor gear box assembly to the J2 motor mount plate.
Page 114 Repeat the last (3) steps for the remaining motor screws so that all (4) motor mount screws have been replaced with M4x45 fully threaded pan head screws and install washers and nuts on each screw. Do not tighten nuts yet. Install 23HS22-2804D-YGS50- AR4 gear box into J2 arm assembly as shown.
Page 115 Once the gearbox is fully in place there should be an approx. 1mm gap between the J2 gearbox motor housing and the J2 tension ring as indicated by the blue arrows. The J2 motor mount should be flush to the J1 platform as indicated by the red arrow.
Page 116 Tighten all (4) of the M4 nuts as shown. Install and tighten M6x20 cap screw in J2 motor support plate as shown. NOTE: CHECK AND MAKE SURE THE MOTOR TO GEARBOX COUPLER IS TIGHT. REMOVE THE SMALL PLASTIC PLUG ON THE SIDE OF THE GEARBOX AND USE A HEX KEY WRENCH TO MAKE SURE THE...
Page 117 Tighten the M3 set screw for the J2 spindle. With the J2 arm in a vertical position you can access the set screw through the access hole in top of J2 housing. You may need to gently move the arm by hand to get it into alignment.
Page 118 Cut length of ¼” braided sleeve to a length of 15cm long then route J2 motor and encoder wires through the sleeve. Attach small cable tie as shown near motor (red arrow). Route J2 wires through J2 motor mount plate as shown.
Page 119 After routing J2 wires through the motor mount plate separate the J2 motor wires from J2 encoder wires then cut the encoder wires to a length where they slightly overlap the brown and blue twisted pairs as shown in the photo.
Page 120 Solder and heat shrink the connection from the J2 encoder to the Cat6 cable as follows: Encoder red wire to the cable brown wire. Encoder black wire to the cable white – brown stripe wire. Encoder brown wire to the cable white – blue stripe wire.
Page 121 Solder and heat shrink 34cm long extension wires to the J2 motor wires as shown. Be sure to match colors so that red goes to red and so With the J2 motor wires extended the motor wires and Cat6 cable for J2 should now be the same length.
Page 122 Press (1) #30204 bearing race into the J3 bearing cup. (See notes on bearing fit in overview section) Secure J3 bearing cup and race to end of J2 arm using (6) M3x20 flat head screws.
Page 123 Install 8mm keyed shaft with 2x2mm keystock into J3 spindle. • 8mm shaft should be 50mm long. • 2x2mm keystock should be 50mm long. Secure shaft and key in position with M3x4 set screw Install 35x52x4 thrust bearing and washers onto J3 spindle as shown.
Page 124 Insert J3 spindle and bearing assembly into J2 arm as shown. While holding the J3 spindle and bearing in place insert #30204 bearing over J3 spindle shaft as shown. (See notes on bearing fit in overview section)
Page 125 Install J3 spindle retainer and secure with (4) M3x10 flat head screws. Tension screws so that there is no play in bearing but not too tight that the J3 shaft does not rotate smoothly. NOTE: don’t forget to use small amount of medium strength loctite on screw threads.
Page 126 Install J3 motor mount to J3 motor using (4) M4x10 flat head screws. Make sure that the tension holes (red arrows) are 90° to the motor wires (blue arrows) in the orientation shown in the photo. Install (2) M3x14 cap head screws into tension slot holes on J3 motor mount.
Page 127 Secure J3 motor assembly to J2 arm using (4) M4x20 socket head cap screws and (4) washers. Make sure the socket head cap screws securing the motor to the arm are slightly loose so that motor can slide to apply tension in a later step.
Page 128 Note that the left or inside edge of pulley should be flush with J2 plate as indicated by the red arrows. Install and tighten M3x4 set screw in threaded hole on 2mm key side of pulley.
Page 129 Install the long shoulder L10 pulley onto J3 motor shaft. Note that the left or inside edge of pulley should be flush or just slightly negative with J2 plate as indicated by the red arrows.
Page 130 Install and tighten M3x4 set screw in threaded hole on 3mm key side of pulley. The set screw should contact the very tip of key on the motor shaft. Install 214L belt as shown over both L10 pulleys.
Page 131 Tighten M3 tension screws until there is moderate tension on belt (or chain). After belt is tensioned tightened finish securing the J3 motor mount by tightening the (4) M4x20 motor mount screws. For joint 3 cut length of continuous flex Cat6 cable to a length of 120cm long and remove outer jacket.
Page 132 Remove 15cm of shielding from one end of the cable and remove 25cm of shielding from the other end. (see overview section on removing shielding) The end with 15cm of shielding removed will be the end of the cable that is routed to the base enclosure.
Page 133 Cut length of ¼” braided sleeve to a length of 23cm long then route green and orange twisted pairs through sleeve as shown. Solder orange wire to “NO” terminal of SV-166-1C25 roller tip limit switch. Solder white with orange stripe wire to the “NC” terminal.
Page 134 It is recommended to use liquid electrical tape to insulate terminals on limit switch. Insert the J3 limit switch into the 3D printed J3 Stop as shown in the photo.
Page 135 Use (2) M3x20 Philips pan head screws to secure J3 limit switch with J3 Stop onto J2 arm as shown. Use cable tie to secure J3 limit switch wire and braided sleeve to J3 gear box (red arrow).
Page 136 Cut the J3 encoder wires to a length of 4cm. Use wire strippers to strip end of the red, black, brown and blue J3 encoder wires. Note: only these 4 encoder wires will be used.
Page 137 Solder and heat shrink the connection from the J3 encoder to the Cat6 cable as follows: Encoder red wire to the cable brown wire. Encoder black wire to the cable white – brown stripe wire. Encoder brown wire to the cable white – blue stripe wire.
Page 138 It is recommended to coat the exposed encoder and motor wires with liquid electrical tape. Applying the liquid electrical tape can also be done later after fully testing the robot electrically. Cut Red, Black, Blue & Green 20awg wires to a length of 50cm long.
Page 139 Solder and heat shrink 50cm long extension wires to the J3 motor wires as shown. Be sure to match colors so that red goes to red and so With the J3 motor wires extended the motor wires and Cat6 cable for J3 should now be the same length.
Page 140 Route J3 motor and Cat6 wires over and then under the J2 gearbox and through center of robot as shown. Cut length of 3/4” braided sleeve to a length of 52cm long then route all of the J2 and J3 wires and cables through sleeve.
Page 141 Route the J2 / J3 wire loom along with the J1 wires into the left enclosure gland nut as shown (red arrow). When routing wires into enclosure, route the CAT5 encoder wires above the enclosure tray (blue arrow). Route the motor wires below the enclosure tray (green arrow).
Page 142 Find the motor wires that were taped with 2 marks for J3 then route and cut the wires as shown so that they are the appropriate length to reach the J3 driver terminals. Connect the (4) J2 motor wires to the J2 driver terminals as follows: A+ BLACK A- GREEN...
Page 143 We need to connect both of the solid orange wires to the left 3.3v terminal on the 3 post terminal block (blue arrow). This terminal already has the orange wire from the J1 limit switch and the orange stripe wire from the drivers OPTO terminal –...
Page 144 We need to connect both of the solid brown wires to the right 5v terminal on the 3 post terminal block (blue arrow). This terminal already has the red wire from the J1 encoder– it can be difficult to get all 3 of these wires under the terminal together and tightened down.
Page 145 Find the green wires from the J2 group labeled with 2 stripes. Route and cut the green wires to length to reach terminal 27 as shown. Strip the end of the green stripe wire and connect to terminal 27. NOTE: the solid green wire is not used and can be trimmed back and left unused.
Page 146 Find the blue wires from the J2 group labeled with 2 stripes. Route and cut the blue wires to length to reach terminal 16 and 17 as shown. Strip the end of the blue solid wire and connect to terminal 16. Strip the end of the blue stripe wire and connect to terminal 17.
Page 147 Use a small cable tie to bundle the J1, J2 and J3 encoder wires as well as the wires going to the terminal block as shown. Secure AR4 logo into recess in J2 side cover using epoxy.
Page 148 Install J2 side cover spacer and rest in place over the J3 belt and pulley as shown. Please note: if you don’t have a large bed printer this part is available to print in 2 pieces – see the folder “Large Parts Split for Smaller 3D printer”...
Page 149 With the side cover and spacer held in place by the first screw now install the remaining (15) M3x30 pan head screws as shown. Press (2) B-1616 needle roller bearings into the J3 turret housing (install one on each side). NOTE: don’t forget to add a small amount of grease to needle bearings.
Page 150 Secure J4 turret housing to J3 spindle using (2) M4x14 flat head screws (center) and (4) M4x10 cap screws (outer). Use an M4 tap to thread each of the (4) holes around the perimeter of the J4 Timing Pulley.
Page 151 Use an M4 tap to thread each of the (4) holes on the face of the J4 Timing Pulley as shown. NOTE: It is important that the J4 timing pulley is no thicker than 15mm. If your 3D print is any thicker than 15mm use flat file or sandpaper on flat glass surface to carefully remove...
Page 152 Install (1) TRD1625 (.126” thick) bearing washer over J4 main shaft and into J4 timing hub recess as shown. Install (1) NTA1625 (1” ID) need roller bearing over J4 main shaft and into J4 timing hub recess as shown. NOTE: don’t forget to add a small amount of grease to needle bearings.
Page 153 Install (1) TRA1625 (.032” thick) bearing washer over J4 main shaft and into J4 timing hub recess as shown. Install J4 tube / timing hub assembly into the J4 turret as shown. Make sure bearings are fully seated in timing hub recess and flush to J4 turret housing.
Page 154 Install (1) M3x6 button head cap screw into J5 motor housing as shown – apply Loctite to screw threads. Do not fully seat the screw, leave one or two threads exposed. This screw will need to be adjusted in a future step. This screw serves as a timing lug for the J4 limit switch.
Page 155 Install (1) TRA1625 (.032” thick) bearing washer over J5 motor shaft and into J5 motor mount recess as shown. Install (1) NTA1625 (1” ID) need roller bearing over J5 motor shaft and into J5 motor mount recess as shown. NOTE: don’t forget to add a small amount of grease to needle bearings.
Page 156 Install (1) TRA1625 (.032” thick) bearing washer over J5 motor shaft and into J5 motor mount recess as shown. Install J5 motor assembly into J4 main tube as shown. Be careful that bearings stay in place in J5 motor mount and slide over the end of the J4 main tube.
Page 157 Install (4) M4x5 set screws into J4 timing hub in locations shown with red arrows. Don’t forget to apply loctite to set screws and then apply light tension to each screw, these screws will apply tension on all of the J4 bearings.
Page 158 Install Nema 11 motor mount bracket as shown, place the 3D printed part “J4 motor spacer – 4mm” between the bracket and the aluminum (red arrow). Secure with (4) M3x14 socket head cap screws. The covers and spacers print files comes with 2mm, 3mm, 4mm and 5mm thicknesses of the “J4 motor spacer”...
Page 159 When installing the J4 motor make sure the motor and encoder wires are facing in toward the J2 arm as shown. Install XL 10 tooth 6mm bore drive pulley onto J4 motor shaft and secure with (2) M3x4 set screws.
Page 160 Install 84XL037 timing belt. Place belt over the 10 tooth J4 motor pulley and then up over the main shaft sprocket – rotate the J5 / J4 assembly as belt rolls onto sprocket. Countersink the (3) holes in POM nut that came with the J5 linear screw motor.
Page 161 Install POM nut into the J5 carrier as shown and secure with (3) M3x10 flat head screws. Press (2) 3mm ID x 20mm long brass bushings into the J5 carrier as shown. NOTE: these can be a tight fit. If needed warm the carrier on a mug warmer prior to installation.
Page 162 Make sure 3mm rods slide smoothly through each bushing after installation. The rods are a tolerance fit but if you find the rods don’t slide smoothly you can run in the bushings by placing the end of one of the rods into a drill, apply grease to the rod and then run it back and forth through the...
Page 163 Place J5 carrier inside of the J5 housing, then install (2) 3mm linear rods through the J5 carrier bearings as shown. Temporarily install M3x8 socket head cap screw fully threaded into hole as shown (red arrow) – this will prevent the 3mm rod from going too deep and blocking the hole.
Page 164 Secure both 3mm rods in place using (2) M3x6 set screws – one from the top and one from the bottom (red arrows). Then remove the M4 cap screw that was placed temporarily to prevent the rod from inserting too far. Make sure to verify that the carrier slides easily on the rods.
Page 165 Install the J5 idler tension block and secure with (2) M3x8 socket head cap screws.
Page 166 Install HK1612 bearing over the J5 bearing post as shown. Install 3D printed bearing post spacer over the J5 bearing post as shown.
Page 167 Secure the bearing post and bearing to the J5 tension block using (1) M4x14 socket head cap screw as shown. Prior to installing the 688Z bearing into the J5 housing verify the end of the J5 linear drive motor lead screw fits cleanly into the 688Z bearing.
Page 168 Install 688Z bearing in end of J5 housing as shown and then secure with M3x6 set screw. Spin J5 housing assembly onto J5 motor lead screw as shown.
Page 169 Before proceeding to the next step of inserting the J5 housing onto the J4 shaft: These are typically a slip fit – make sure all surfaces are clean and free of burrs or debris. Do not force or twist into place – if it does not slide on by hand then polish J4 main shaft before inserting.
Page 170 Install M4x10 set screw (red arrow) to secure J5 housing to J4 main tube, make sure screw fully threads into hole in J4 main shaft to ensure clocking is correct and housing is secured to main shaft. Allow retaining compound to set for 1 to 2 hours before proceeding with any further work on the J5...
Page 171 Secure J6 main bearing arm to J5 housing using (6) M4x18 flat head screws. Press #30203 taper roller bearing onto J6 housing side post. NOTE: don’t forget to add a small amount of grease to taper bearings. (See notes on bearing fit in overview section)
Page 172 Install (1) TRD1625 (.126” thick) bearing washer into J6 bearing cap recess as shown. Install (1) NTA1625 (1” ID) need roller bearing into J6 bearing cap recess as shown. NOTE: don’t forget to add a small amount of grease to needle bearings.
Page 173 Install (1) TRA1625 (.032” thick) bearing washer into J6 bearing cap recess as shown. Install J6 housing from left side as shown and then install the J6 bearing cap (with bearings) from the right. Secure bearing Cap to J6 housing using (1) M6x14 socket head cap screw.
Page 174 Install (6) M4x5 set screws in perimeter of bearing cap. These set screws will apply tension on J6 bearings. Set tension evenly on all set screws so there is no play J6 housing rotation but also that it rotates smoothly. Use M3 tap to thread the front (4) holes in J5 side plate (red arrows).
Page 175 Use #30 (.128” or 3.25mm) drill bit to clear the rear (8) holes on J5 side cover spacer. Install J5 side plate as shown, temporarily install (1) M3x25 philips head pan screws to hold side cover in place.
Page 176 Install XL15 pulley onto J6 housing post as shown. If the pulley does not slide onto the J6 housing shaft easily do not force it. Pulley manufactures and tolerances vary – polish the shaft or pulley bore to achieve a slip fit if necessary.
Page 177 In the next steps we are going to install the J5 limit switch, when installed we want the roller tip of the limit switch to make contact with the leading edge of the J5 carrier. The red star in this photo shows the location in which we want the roller tip to make contact with the...
Page 178 With limit switch installed such that switch clicks or makes contact just as J5 carrier makes the forward position install (2) M4x10 set screws (red arrows) to secure limit switch into position. Set screws should be snug and keep limit switch secured but not too tight –...
Page 179 Adjust J5 idler tension block so that when you try to install the belt it is just barely too tight or is very difficult to slip over the idler bearing. 150XL belt should be just barely too tight so that it is very difficult to slip it over the idler bearing.
Page 180 When installing the 150XL belt loosen bearing post mounting screw so that post tips back slightly making it easier to slide belt onto idler bearing. Next tighten post mounting screw – this will result in a very tight belt adjustment. Install 150XL belt over J6 pulley and J5 idler bearing.
Page 181 Make sure set screws in J6 XL15 pulley are still loose. Make sure the J5 carrier is in the forward position and that the limit switch has just clicked. Rotate J6 housing to an up angle so that the motor side is down.
Page 182 Manually rotate the J5 motor lead screw until the J6 housing is at approx. a 45° down angle – this will make installation of the J6 motor easier in a future step. Remove the M3x25 screw that was temporarily supporting the J5 side plate then place the J5 side spacer in place as shown.
Page 183 Install AR4 logo into recess in J5 side cap and secure with epoxy. Install J5 side spacer and J5 side cap as shown and secure to J5 housing using (8) M3x25 Philips head pan screws (red arrows).
Page 184 Install (4) M3x20 Philips pan head screws in front section of cap (red arrows) securing the side cover cap and side spacer to the side plate. Install J6 motor into J6 housing as shown with wires facing upward. Secure motor to housing using (4) M3x3 set screws.
Page 185 Install the J6 Limit Contact onto the J6 gripper mount using (2) M2.5x8 Pan Head screws as shown. (This will be the contact for the J6 limit switch) Align the slot and key on the J6 motor shaft and Install J6 gripper mount onto the J6 shaft as shown, secure with (1) M4x10 set screw.
Page 186 For joint 4 cut length of continuous flex Cat6 cable to a length of 117cm long and remove outer jacket. (see overview section on jacket removal) Remove 15cm of shielding from one end of the cable and remove 17cm of shielding from the other end.
Page 187 From the end of cable that has 17cm of shielding removed - cut and remove 14cm of the brown and blue twisted pairs leaving 3cm of wire exposed. Cut length of ¼” braided sleeve to a length of 15cm long then route green and orange twisted pairs through sleeve as shown.
Page 188 Solder orange wire to “NO” terminal of 10T85 limit switch. Solder white with orange stripe wire to the “NC” terminal. Solder the white with green stripe wire to the “C” terminal. Note: the green wire is not used. (also see wiring diagrams in chapter 4) Insert J4 limit switch and connected wires into the J4...
Page 189 Use (2) M3x14 Philips pan head screws to secure switch mount to the J4 housing as shown in photo. NOTE: When commissioning the robot don’t forget to review the commissioning chapter – the J4 timing screw will need to be adjusted so that it correctly contact this limit switch.
Page 190 Use wire strippers to strip end of the red, black, brown and blue J4 encoder wires. Note: only these 4 encoder wires will be used. Solder and heat shrink the connection from the J4 encoder to the Cat6 cable as follows: Encoder red wire to the cable brown wire.
Page 191 Cut Red, Black, Blue & Green 20awg wires to a length of 55cm long. Solder and heat shrink 60cm long extension wires to the J4 motor wires as shown. Be sure to match colors so that red goes to red and so With the J4 motor wires extended the motor wires and Cat6 cable for J4...
Page 192 Wrap ends of J4 motor wires and J4 Cat6 cable with tape and then use a marker to put (4) stripes on each taped end so that you will know these are for J4 when wires have been routed inside enclosure Cut length of ¼”...
Page 193 Temporarily route the J4 motor and cable wires into the J2 arm cable channel with the amount of arc and slack shown. It is recommended to coat the exposed encoder and motor wires with liquid electrical tape. Applying the liquid electrical tape can also be done later after fully testing the robot electrically.
Page 194 For joint 5 cut a length of continuous flex Cat6 cable to a length of 124cm long and remove outer jacket. (see overview section on jacket removal) Joint 5 is a little different from the other joints due to the fact that the J5 limit switch is not located close to the J5 motor and the limit switch is on the other...
Page 195 Pull all the wires out of the shielding and remove the green wrap and center core leaving just the shielding and the 4 twisted pairs. Set the green and orange twisted pairs aside, they need to remain the full 124cm in length - they will be used separately in a future step.
Page 196 After feeding the brown and blue wire pairs through the shielding the wires should leave 15cm exposed from one end of the shielding and 3cm exposed from the other end of the shielding. The end with 15cm of shielding removed will be the end of the cable that is routed to the base enclosure.
Page 197 Use wire strippers to strip end of the red, black, brown and blue J5 encoder wires. Note: only these 4 encoder wires will be used. Solder and heat shrink the connection from the J5 encoder to the Cat6 cable as follows: Encoder red wire to the cable brown wire.
Page 198 Cut Red, Black, Blue & Green 20awg wires to a length of 75cm long. Solder and heat shrink 75cm long extension wires to the J5 motor wires as shown. Be sure to match colors so that red goes to red and so With the J5 motor wires extended the motor wires and Cat6 cable for J5...
Page 199 Cut length of ¼” braided sleeve to a length of 33cm long then route J5 motor wires and Cat6 cable through the sleeve. Use small cable tie to secure the braided sleeve to motor wires and cable where shown (red arrow). Secure the 3D printed J5 motor bracket to the J5 motor housing using a large...
Page 200 Temporarily route the J5 motor and cable wires into the J2 arm cable channel with the amount of arc and slack shown. NOTE: the slack or amount of arc in the cable must leave enough room that J4 can fully articulate without pulling the cable.
Page 201 Using the 130cm long orange and green twisted pairs that were set aside earlier – solder wires to the J5 limit switch: Solder orange wire to • “NO” terminal of SV-166- 1C25 roller tip limit switch. Solder white with orange •...
Page 202 Cut length of ¼” braided sleeve to a length of 44cm long then route J5 limit switch wires through the sleeve. Route the J5 limit switch wire sleeve through the J5 side spacer cover and into the J2 arm cable channel as shown.
Page 203 Wrap ends of J5 motor wires with tape and then use a marker to put (5) stripes on the taped end. Combine the green and orange pairs of wires from the J5 limit switch and the blue and brown pairs from the encoder and wrap with tape, then use a marker to put (5) stripes on the taped...
Page 204 Remove 15cm of shielding from one end of the cable and remove 8cm of shielding from the other end. (see overview section on removing shielding) The end with 15cm of shielding removed will be the end of the cable that is routed to the base enclosure.
Page 205 Cut length of ¼” braided sleeve to a length of 6cm Route orange and green twisted pair through the braided sleeve – compress sleeve and use alligator clip to hold the braided sleeve back to give you room to solder wire ends to J6 limit switch.
Page 206 Coat switch terminals with liquid electrical tape, then remove alligator clip and allow braided sleeve to extend up to switch terminals as shown. Install the J6 Limit Switch Mount onto the J6 housing and secure with (2) M2.5x6 pan head screws as shown.
Page 207 Install J6 limit switch onto J6 mount as shown using (2) M2.5x6 pan head screws. Cut the J6 encoder wires to a length of 3cm, strip ends of the red, black, brown and blue wires then solder and heat shrink the connection from the J6 encoder to the Cat6 cable as follows:...
Page 208 Cut Red, Black, Blue & Green 20awg wires to a length of 100cm long. Solder and heat shrink 100cm long extension wires to the J6 motor wires as shown. Be sure to match colors so that red goes to red and so With the J6 motor wires extended the motor wires and Cat6 cable for J6...
Page 209 Wrap ends of J6 motor wires and J6 Cat6 cable with tape and then use a marker to put (6) stripes on each taped end so that you will know these are for J6 when wires have been routed inside enclosure. AT THIS POINT IN THE ASSEMBLY WE NEED TO INCLUDE WIRES OR PNEUMATIC TUBING FOR ANY GRIPPER YOU WISH TO INSTALL ON THE...
Page 210 If you wish to install a pneumatic gripper cut 2 lengths of 4mm silicone tubing to any length of your choosing. In this example I will be running 2 lengths of 350cm. NOTE: This tubing is listed in the Chapter 3 (pneumatics gripper) Bill of Materials section.
Page 211 If you wish to install an electric servo driven gripper cut a length of 3 wire cable to a length of 175cm long. Any stranded flexible 3 wire cable can be used. The cable I have selected is high flex 22awg (red, white, black) NOTE: This cable is listed in the Chapter 4 (servo...
Page 212 Cut length of ¼” braided sleeve to a length of 90cm long then route J6 motor wires, encoder wires, as well as pneumatic tube or gripper conductor cable through the sleeve. Getting all these wires routed through the braided sleeve can be difficult, it helps to make sure all the wires are laid straight and not crossing over or...
Page 213 It is recommended to coat the exposed encoder and motor wires with liquid electrical tape. Applying the liquid electrical tape can also be done later after fully testing the robot electrically. Route the J6 cable along with the J5 limit switch cable so that they are the same length and feed into the J2 side cover wire way...
Page 214 Cut length of 3/4” braided sleeve to a length of 70cm long then route J4, J5 and J6 motor wires and Cat6 cables through the sleeve. Where the 3/4” braided sleeve overlaps the braided sleeve for the J4,5,6 cables just below the small cable tie wrap the end of the 3/4”...
Page 215 Next we need to route all the J4, J5, J6 wires into the encloser. Start with the pneumatic lines, they need to be routed through the right PG21 gland nut, below the tray, along side the J6 driver and then out the slot in bottom right of base enclosure.
Page 216 Route the J4, J5 and J6 motor wires through the PG21 gland nut and then below the tray. Move the gland nut back over the sheathing (red arrow) and continue to feed all wires into the enclosure, you will need to pull the motor, encoder and gripper wires through as you feed the bundle into the gland...
Page 217 Once you have finished pulling the wires through and feeding the bundle into the gland fitting, tighten the gland nut as shown. Find the motor wires that were taped with 6 marks for J6 then route and cut the wires as shown so that they are the appropriate length to reach the J6 driver terminals.
Page 218 Find the motor wires that were taped with 5 marks for J6 then route and cut the wires as shown so that they are the appropriate length to reach the J5 driver terminals. Connect the (4) J5 motor wires to the J5 driver terminals as follows: A+ BLACK A- GREEN...
Page 219 Use a small cable tie to bundle the J4, J5, J6 and pneumatic lines on right side of base enclosure as shown (yellow arrow). Make sure not to overtighten cable tie and pinch or collapse pneumatic air lines. Lower the tray and then find the brown and orange pairs of wires that were labeled for J4, J5 and J6,...
Page 220 Trim the brown and orange wire pairs so that they will reach the 3 terminal block as shown. Solder the J4, J5 and J6 brown wires together as shown.
Page 221 Solder the J4, J5 and J6 brown & orange stripe wires together as shown. Solder the J4, J5 and J6 orange wires together as shown.
Page 222 Secure the orange wires to the left terminal (along with the previously connected J1, J2, J3 wires) as shown. NOTE: It can be difficult to get the wire groups maneuvered into position under the terminal lug – It helps to use a magnetic screw driver for the lug screw and small pair of needle nose pliers to...
Page 223 Secure the brown wires to the right terminal (along with the previously connected J1, J2, J3 wires) as shown. NOTE: It can be difficult to get the wire groups maneuvered into position under the terminal lug – It helps to use a magnetic screw driver for the lug screw and small pair of needle nose pliers to...
Page 224 Find the blue wires from the J4 group labeled with 4 stripes. Route and cut the blue wires to length to reach terminal 20 and 21 as shown. Strip the end of the blue solid wire and connect to terminal 20. Strip the end of the blue stripe wire and connect to terminal 21.
Page 225 Find the blue wires from the J6 group labeled with 6 stripes. Route and cut the blue wires to length to reach terminal 24 and 25 as shown. Strip the end of the blue solid wire and connect to terminal 24. Strip the end of the blue stripe wire and connect to terminal 25.
Page 226 Find the green wires from the J5 group labeled with 5 stripes. Route and cut the green wires to length to reach terminal 30 as shown. Strip the end of the green stripe wire and connect to terminal 30. NOTE: the solid green wire is not used and can be trimmed back and left unused.
Page 227 Use a small cable tie to bundle the green and blue strip wires as shown. Trim the 3 conductor gripper cable so that it extends from the enclosure tray 3cm.
Page 228 Pull cable back through hole and install nut from GX16-4 plug (yellow arrow) and then feed cable back through hole. Next, use cable stripping tool to remove 2cm of the cable jacket as shown (red arrow). Solder the gripper cable to the GX16-4 male connector as follows: •...
Page 229 Insert connector into enclosure and then tighten nut from the backside. NOTE: the nut can be difficult to spin onto connector, using a small pair of needle nose pliers and a small screw driver to manipulate the nut can be helpful.
Page 230: Dip Switch Setting
DIP SWITCH SETTING THESE SETTINGS ARE USED FOR THE FOLLOWING SERIES MOTORS: • J1 - 17HS15-1684D-EG10 1/4 STEPS 1.82 AMP • J2 - 23HS22-2804D-HG50 1/4 STEPS 2.29 AMP • J3 - 17HS15-1684D-EG50 1/4 STEPS 1.82 AMP • J4 - 11HS20-0674D-EGS16 1/4 STEPS 0.50 AMP •...
Page 231 Install (2) #6 thread form screws in the tray corners shown to hold the tray down to the enclosure base. Secure PBS-110 push button lead wires to the terminal breakout board as shown: Red wire – terminal 39. Black wire – terminal GND.
Page 232 Install PBS-110 push button switch in enclosure lid as shown. Install enclosure lid and secure with (4) #6 thread form screws.
Page 233 THIS CONCLUDES THE ROBOT ASSEMBLY. PLEASE REVIEW THE CHAPTER ON ROBOT STARTUP AS WELL AS THE TUTORIAL VIDEOS ON THE ANNIN ROBOTICS WEBSITE TUTORIALS PAGE.
Page 234: Chapter 3 Pneumatic Gripper
CHAPTER 3 PNEUMATIC GRIPPER The robot can have multiple different end effectors depending on your needs. This chapter covers the installation of a pneumatic gripper. Please also see the tutorial video on grippers and IO connections: https://youtu.be/76F6dS4ar8Y...
Page 235 Pneumatic Gripper Bill of Materials MHF2-8D1 pneumatic gripper. Silicone Tubing, 2mm ID x 4mm OD High Temp Food Grade Tube Pure Silicone Hose M3 Male Thread to 3mm 3/25" Barb 1/4"NPT Solenoid Valve 24V Single Coil Pilot-Operated Electric 2 Position 5 Way...
Page 236 VALVE FITTING OPTION 1 VALVE FITTING OPTION 2 Push to Connect Fittings 1/8” Tube OD x Push to Connect Fittings 4mm Tube OD x 1/4 inch NPT Thread 1/4 inch NPT Thread COMPRESSOR OPTION 1 ¼” or 6mm nylon pneumatic tubing 2 gallon portable air compressor There are numerous options –...
Page 237 COMPRESSOR OPTION 2 Arduino Nano control board (Arduino An airbrush compressor in another Mega can also be used) compressor option. This option is a little lower cost and quieter although often has less available grip pressure. Terminal Adapter Expansion Board for 5v Relay module Arduino Nano...
Page 238 USB-C Keystone Jack. 5.5mm DC power jack socket. KCD1 SPST rocker switch with lead 24V 8A Power Supply Adapter wires. This power supply is available from Stepperonline (provided with the AR4 robot motors and drivers kit)
Page 239 1N4004 Rectifier Diode Micro USB to USB C Cable 20awg 2 conductor black and red wire.. 63cm...
Page 240 Auxiliary enclosure J1 Base enclosure fan cover The 3D print file for this part can be found along with the robot print files on the This is the same 3D printed part that is downloads page used on the robot base. Gripper Jaws Auxiliary enclosure lid The 3D print file for this part can be found...
Page 241 Machine Screws / Fasteners #6 x .375 Thread Form Screw M4x30 Pan Head Screw #2 x .25 Screw M2.5x6 Socket Head Screw...
Page 242 Pneumatic Gripper Assembly Tap the (2) auxiliary enclosure holes indicated in photo with M4 tap. Install ¼” or 6mm push connect pneumatic fitting in center “P” port of solenoid valve as shown (red arrow) Install (2) pneumatic silencers in the “R”-”S” ports on either side as shown (yellow arrows)
Page 243 Install (2) 4mm tube push connect fittings as shown (red arrows) in the “A”-”B” ports of the solenoid valve. Depending on supply chain availability, your solenoid valve may not have pre- wired pigtail. In this case cut lengths of red / black 20awg wire to a length of 17cm.
Page 244 Connect the red wire to the “+” terminal and the black wire to the “-” terminal and then reinstall the terminal cover as shown. Install solenoid valve into auxiliary enclosure as shown and secure with (2) M4x30 pan head screws. Solenoid inlet port and air silencers should protrude as shown in photo below.
Page 245 Cut 25cm lengths of the 20awg 2 conductor black and red wire. Solder and heat shrink 25cm red wire to extend the rocker switch red wire so that the total length of the red wire is 34cm long.
Page 246 Remove all build structure from 3D printed Base Enclosure Fan Cover then install the 5.5mm power jack as shown. Install rocker switch as shown. Rocker switch will snap into position.
Page 247 Cut the rocker switch black wire as shown leaving 50mm of wire extended from the rocker switch. Strip 3mm of sheathing from the end of the black 25cm long wire from step 2 and then solder the wire to the 5.5mm power sockets ground connection tab as shown.
Page 248 Remove 3mm of sheathing from the rocker switch black wire and then solder the rocker switch black wire to the positive center terminal on the 5.5mm power jack as shown. NOTE: the positive terminal is the one in the center of the power jack. Make sure solder connections to each of the power jack terminals are...
Page 249 Feed red and black wires through the hole shown in the auxiliary encloser. NOTE: A fan is not needed for the pneumatic gripper so the fan recess area can be left empty. Secure fan switch cover to the auxiliary enclosure using (4) #6 thread form screws.
Page 250 Secure Nano breakout board to enclosure in the position shown and secure with (2) #6 thread form screws. Make sure to orient the board with the D12 and D13 terminals to the right as indicated by the yellow arrows. Insert Nano board into terminal breakout board as shown.
Page 251 Install 5v relay module and secure with (4) #2x.25 screws. Solder the red wire (coming from fan enclosure) to the 1N4004 diode as shown. Make sure to solder the red wire on the side of the diode that has the silver band.
Page 252 Connect the red wire with diode to the center COM terminal of relay. Trim red wire from solenoid valve to length shown and then connect to the top “NO” terminal of relay.
Page 253 Trim the solenoid black wire to the length shown, then solder the solenoid black wire and fan enclosure black wire together and then solder those to the other end of the diode as shown. NOTE: the diode serves to eliminate EMF interference when the solenoid actuates.
Page 254 Strip ends of the red and green wires and then connect the Nano board to the relay as follows: • Red wire from nano VIN termina to the relay DC+ terminal. • Green wire from the nano GND terminal to the relay DC- terminal.
Page 255 Install USB keystone jack into enclosure as shown, then connect USB cable from keystone jack to Nano board. Route pneumatic lines from robot into enclosure as shown and connect to the A and B port push connect fittings.
Page 256 Install auxiliary enclosure lid and secure with (4) #6 thread form screws. Install 3mm barb fittings to MHF2-8D1 gripper as shown. NOTE: 3mm push connect or 90 degree fittings can be used if needed.
Page 257 Attach J6 gripper mount to MHF2-8D1 using (2) M3x8 cap screws. (yellow arrows) NOTE: make sure the M4 timing cap screw on gripper mount is to the right in relation to the barb fittings facing down as shown in photo. (red arrows) Install gripper and J6 mount onto robot as shown then connect the pneumatic...
Page 258 Install gripper jaws on MHF2-8D1 gripper using (4) M2.5x6 cap screws. NOTE: you can design and install any jaws you require. These jaws are available in the 3D print files. Open the Arduino software, from the tools, AVR boards menu select the Arduino Nano.
Page 259 From the tools, processor menu select the (old bootloader) option. The standard ATmega328 option may work but I have had better luck on most boards with the old bootloader. Open your device manager and double check which COM port your nano board connected to.
Page 260 Double check from the tools, port menu that its set to the same COM as your device manager. In my case its COM4. NOTE: In the AR4 software you will also want to set your Nano COM to this com port. Press the upload sketch button to load the program to the Nano board.
Page 261 Open the AR4 software, from the config settings tab set the COM port as noted in previous steps to the correct number and then press the Set Com IO Board button. In the software log file it should say communications started with IO board.
Page 262 Plug 24vdc power supply into auxiliary enclosure and power on solenoid valve. Connect ¼ or 6mm supply pressure line to air compressor.
Page 263 Connect ¼” or 6mm supply pressure line from compressor to solenoid fitting as shown. In the AR4 software from the Inputs Outputs tab enter output #8 in the fields shown. You should now be able to toggle your gripper open and close using the DO on and DO off buttons.
Page 264 You can control the pneumatic gripper in the robot program using the lines of code shown generated from the “Set Output On” and the “Set Output Off” command buttons. REFERENCE: The Nano sketch file for the AR4 robot allocates the servo and input / outputs indicated in red text in the diagram shown.
Page 265: Chapter 4 Servo Gripper
CHAPTER 4 SERVO GRIPPER The robot can have multiple different end effectors depending on your needs. This chapter covers the installation of an electric servo gripper. Please also see the tutorial video on grippers and IO connections: https://youtu.be/76F6dS4ar8Y...
Page 266 Servo Gripper Bill of Materials Arduino Nano control board (Arduino 25kg Servo Gripper – DS3225 Mega can also be used) Terminal Adapter Expansion Board for Micro USB to USB C Cable Arduino Nano Any short length Mini to C cable can be used.
Page 267 5V 3A Power Supply Adapter 18awg 4 conductor cable (200cm long) AR4_SG1_base AR4_SG1_carriage (3D print – PETG 100% infill) (3D print – PETG 50% infill)
Page 268 AR4_SG1_center_bar AR4_SG1_gear (3D print – PETG 50% infill) (3D print – PETG 50% infill) AR4_SG1_jaw1 AR4_SG1_jaw2 (3D print – PETG 50% infill) (3D print – PETG 50% infill)
Page 269 USB-C Keystone Jack. 5.5mm DC power jack socket. This can be either straight or 90 degree. KCD1 SPST rocker switch with lead GX16-4 aviation plugs. wires. Qty (2)
Page 270 Auxiliary enclosure Auxiliary enclosure lid The 3D print file for this part can be found The 3D print file for this part can be found along with the robot print files on the along with the robot print files on the downloads page.
Page 271 (x2) 3mm stainless rod cut to length of 3mm stainless rod cut to length of 70mm 16.5mm 20awg 2 conductor black and red wire.. 63cm...
Page 272 Machine Screws / Fasteners #6 x .375 Thread Form Screw M3x10 Pan Head Screw...
Page 273 Servo Gripper Assembly Cut 25cm length from 18awg 4 conductor cable. Use jacket stripping tool to assist in removing jacket. You should now have (4) 18awg wires that are 25cm long.
Page 274 Cut 25cm lengths of the 20awg 2 conductor black and red wire. Solder and heat shrink 25cm red wire to extend the rocker switch red wire so that the total length of the red wire is 34cm long.
Page 275 Remove all build structure from 3D printed Base Enclosure Fan Cover then install the 5.5mm power jack as shown. Install rocker switch as shown. Rocker switch will snap into position.
Page 276 Cut the rocker switch black wire as shown leaving 50mm of wire extended from the rocker switch. Strip 3mm of sheathing from the end of the black 25cm long wire from step 2 and then solder the wire to the 5.5mm power sockets ground connection tab as shown.
Page 277 Remove 3mm of sheathing from the rocker switch black wire and then solder the rocker switch black wire to the positive center terminal on the 5.5mm power jack as shown. NOTE: the positive terminal is the one in the center of the power jack. Make sure solder connections to each of the power jack terminals are...
Page 278 Feed red and black wires through the hole shown in the auxiliary encloser. NOTE: A fan is not needed for the servo gripper so the fan recess area can be left empty. Secure fan switch cover to the auxiliary enclosure using (4) #6 thread form screws.
Page 279 Cut a length 7cm long from the red 18awg wire from step 2. Solder and heat shrink the 7mm long extension wire to the red power wire coming from the fan / switch cover. This should extend the red wire so that the red and black wires are now the same length.
Page 280 Cut a 15cm length of black 22awg wire that was leftover from the J2 or J3 encoder wires that were removed. Strip ends of 18awg black wire and 22awg black wire, twist them together and then apply solder to bond them together.
Page 281 Feed the red and black wires through a nut from the GX16-4 male connector and then out the 16mm hole in enclosure as shown. Solder the black pair wire ends to the #1 terminal on GX16-4 connector. Solder the red wire to pin...
Page 282 Cut a 15cm length of orange 22awg wire that was leftover from the J2 or J3 encoder wires that were removed. Feed orange wire through the nut and 16mm hole and then solder to the #3 terminal.
Page 283 Insert GX16-4 male connector into enclosure and tighten nut on reverse side. Secure Nano breakout board to enclosure in the position shown and secure with (2) #6 thread form screws. Make sure to orient the board with the D12 and D13 terminals to the right as indicated by the yellow arrows.
Page 284 Insert Nano board into terminal breakout board as shown. Connect the orange wire to the A0 terminal. Connect the black wire to the GND terminal.
Page 285 Install USB keystone jack into enclosure as shown, then connect USB cable from keystone jack to Nano board. Install auxiliary enclosure lid and secure with (4) #6 thread form screws.
Page 286 Tap the (4) bottom holes on the gripper base with M3 tap. Apply light oil and tap hole slowly by hand, do not attempt to power tap with drill. Use 2.5mm drill bit to clear out each of the 10 holes shown in photo.
Page 287 Secure servo to base assembly as shown and secure with (4) #6 screws Use 3mm drill bit to clear center hole in 3D printed carriage.
Page 288 Place small drop of super glue on end of 16.5mm long shaft Insert glued end into carriage center hole and tap down into place. Shaft need to be fully inserted flush to bottom surface of carriage.
Page 289 Secure carriage to base as shown with (6) #6 screws. Use 3.1mm drill bit to clear center hole in 3D printed gear.
Page 290 Install gear on center post and make sure it spins freely. Install center bar and secure with (2) #3 screws as shown.
Page 291 Use 3.1mm drill bit to clear both rail holes in the 3D printed jaw1 and jaw2 parts. Make sure 3mm rod slides easily in each jaw rail hole.
Page 292 Install jaw1 and jaw2 as shown. Make sure the jaws slide easily. Make sure to clean all 3D printed parts, remove any positives or imperfections, use flat file and square file to carefully clean or polish all flat surfaces and make sure all parts move and slide freely.
Page 293 Finish inserting rods through the other jaw and into other side of carriage. Make sure jaws slide easily. Place drop of super glue at each end of both rods to secure rods in place.
Page 294 Install J6 gripper mount onto gripper assembly as shown and secure with (4) M3x10 pan head screws. Make sure the gripper mount M4 cap screw is facing the back of the servo when installed. Install gripper on robot. Timing screw head should be facing down and set screw should be facing up as shown in photo.
Page 295 Trim the servo wire to a length of 13cm as shown. Remove 3cm of jacket from the 3 conductor gripper cable installed on robot. Then strip wire ends as shown in photo.
Page 296 Strip wire ends of servo as shown. Slide a 6cm long length of larger 6mm heat shrink tube over the servo wires.
Page 297 Solder and heat shrink the servo wires to the robot 3 conductor gripper cable as follows: • Servo brown wire to cable black wire. Servo orange wire to • cable red wire. Servo yellow wire to • cable white wire Slide the larger heat shrink tube up over the transition between the cable and the...
Page 298 Remove 1.5cm of the jacket from each end of the remaining 175cm long 4 conductor cable. Next strip the end of each individual wire as shown. Remove the screw and cover from (2) female GX16-4 connectors.
Page 299 Slide GX16 connector covers over the ends of the cable as shown. Solder the cable wire to the GX16 terminals as follows: #1 – BLACK #2 – RED #3 – WHITE #4 – GREEN...
Page 300 Reinstall connector cover, install retaining screw and tighten the cable clamp. Repeat the last 2 steps for the other end of the cable.
Page 301 Plug one end of cable into robot base. Plug other end of cable into auxiliary enclosure. Plug USB cable into your...
Page 302 Plug 5vdc adapter into AC socket Plug 5vdc adapter into auxiliary enclosure.
Page 303 Open the Arduino software, from the tools, AVR boards menu select the Arduino Nano. From the tools, processor menu select the (old bootloader) option. The standard ATmega328 option may work but I have had better luck on most boards with the old bootloader.
Page 304 Open your device manager and double check which COM port your nano board connected to. In my case it’s the only COM device plugged in at the moment so I know its COM4 but you can unplug and plug it back in and see which COM port updates on the list.
Page 305 Press the upload sketch button to load the program to the Nano board. It should say done uploading when complete. Open the AR4 software, from the config settings tab set the COM port as noted in previous steps to the correct number and then press the Set Com IO Board button.
Page 306 In the software log file it should say communications started with IO board. On the input output tab set the first Servo 0 field to “0” and set the second field to “60” Press each Servo 0 button and you should hear and see the servo spindle rotate from its 0 position to the 60 degree position...
Page 307 We need to install the servo gripper arm while the servo motor is in the correct position. So that the gripper is applying adequate pressure in the fully closed position set the servo to a value of Close the gripper jaws by hand and then install the servo armature as shown while the servo is set to 15.
Page 308 NOTE: you can create a test program as shown with the commands: Tab Number 1 Servo number 0 to pos 0 Servo number 0 to pos 60 Jump Tab-1 To create a program that loops and opens on closes the gripper over and over. When gripping a part, or with the servo at 0 or 60 it is trying to apply force...
Page 309 You can control the servo gripper in the robot program using the lines of code shown generated from the “Servo” command button. REFERENCE: The Nano sketch file for the AR4 robot allocates the servo and input / outputs indicated in red text in the diagram shown.
Page 310 REFERENCE: This is a high level wiring diagram to help visualize the servo wiring. The servo should be wired as shown. Note the power supply -5v is shared with the Arduino -5v or GND terminal. Please see this video for more information on servo wiring.
Page 311 CHAPTER 5 ADDITIONAL AXIS The AR4 robot has the capability of controlling up to 3 additional axis (7 and 9 axis). The most common additional axis is a 7 axis travel track which will be covered in the chapter. Other uses for an additional axis are applications such has having the robot control the focus and aperture on a camera, having the robot control a turn table or part rotation device or having the robot control a stepper...
Page 312 Additional Axis Bill of Materials DM332T digital stepper driver. 18awg 4 conductor cable (200cm long) You will need one drive for each axis you would like to add, you can also use the Cable can be any length depending on DM320T if you are driving a smaller how far you want to mount enclosure motor.
Page 313 40mm 24vdc brushless cooling fan. 5.5mm DC power jack socket. 30cm length of CAT5 cable...
Page 314 Auxiliary enclosure Auxiliary enclosure lid The 3D print file for this part can be found The 3D print file for this part can be found along with the robot print files on the along with the robot print files on the downloads page.
Page 315 DRIVE MOUNT (x1) BEARING SPACERS You will need 2 spacers: • (1) 13mm spacer • (1) 15mm spacer (They look identical except for the height) BLOCK SPACER (x4) TEMPLATE (x1)
Page 316 NEMA 17 stepper motor SKU: 17HS19-2004S1 NEMA 17 bracket SKU: ST-M1...
Page 317 Qty.(1) SFU1204 Ball Screw. In this build we are using 500mm long screw and guides but you can use any length you like. This item is typically available from Amazon, AliExpress or other online bearing suppliers – There are a number of brands out there but any SFU1204 will work.
Page 318 Qty.(1) KP08 – 8mm bore pillow block bearing. These are typically sold in pairs of 2 so you will have 1 extra. This item is typically available from Amazon, AliExpress or other online bearing suppliers. Qty.(1) KP000 – 10mm bore pillow block bearing. These are typically sold in pairs of 2 so you will have 1 extra.
Page 319 GX-16 aviation plug (x2) 12” x 6” x ¼” aluminum plate (x1)- McMaster Carr...
Page 320 Machine Screws / Fasteners #6 x .375 Thread Form Screw M8 x 35mm Screw M8 washer...
Page 321 Additional Axis Assembly Remove all build structure from 3D printed Base Enclosure Fan Cover then install the 5.5mm power jack as shown. Install rocker switch as shown. Rocker switch will snap into position.
Page 322 Cut the rocker switch black wire as shown leaving 50mm of wire extended from the rocker switch. Save the remainder black wire for the next step. Strip 3mm of sheathing from the end of the black remainder wire and then solder the wire to the 5.5mm power sockets ground connection tab as...
Page 323 Remove 3mm of sheathing from the rocker switch black wire and then solder the rocker switch black wire to the positive center terminal on the 5.5mm power jack as shown. NOTE: the positive terminal is the one in the center of the power jack. Make sure solder connections to each of the power jack terminals are...
Page 324 Insert 40mm cooling fan into housing as shown. The fan label should be facing out. NOTE: The fan is a snug slip fit into housing and is not secured with any fasteners. Feed the red and black power wires as well as the cooling fan wires through the auxiliary enclosure access hole as shown.
Page 325 Secure fan switch cover to the auxiliary enclosure using (4) #6 thread form screws. Install the 7 axis and 8 axis drive as shown and secure with #6 thread form screws. If a 9 axis is desired you can install the next drive just to the right of the 8 axis drive shown.
Page 326 Trim red and black power wires to length shown and then connect the red wire to the +Vdc input, connect the black wire to the GND input on the driver shown. Use the remainder red and black wires to jumper power from the first driver across to the other driver.
Page 327 Trim the fan wires to the length shown and then connect the red wire to the +Vdc input and the black wire to the GND input on the last drive as shown. Cut length of 18awg 4 conductor cable to a length of 20cm long.
Page 328 Remove 3cm of cable jacket on one end and 6cm of jacket from the other end. Strip all wire ends. Solder the short end wires to the GX16 terminals as follows: #1 – BLACK #2 – RED #3 – WHITE #4 –...
Page 329 Install the GX16-4 plug into the enclosure as shown. Connect the (4) J2 motor wires to the first driver terminals as follows: A+ BLACK A- GREEN B+ RED B- WHITE Repeat the last 3 steps and install GX16-4 plug for the drive.
Page 330 Cut Cat5 cable to length of 15cm and remove outer sheathing from cable. Insert the brown stripe wire into terminal #7 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Insert the solid brown wire into terminal #8 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack.
Page 331 Use a keystone punch down tool to seat and trim both wires into the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Insert the orange stripe wire into terminal #1 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Insert the solid orange wire into terminal #2 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack.
Page 332 Insert the green stripe wire into terminal #3 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Insert the solid green wire into terminal #1 of the CAT6 Keystone Jack. Then use a keystone punch down tool to seat and trim both wires into the CAT6 Keystone Jack.
Page 333 Install keystone jack into left socket in enclosure as shown. Connect the green wire to the OPTO input on the J7 driver, then jumper a green wire from the J7 driver to the J8 driver. Connect the solid orange wire to the DIR input on the J7 driver.
Page 334 Connect the solid brown wire to the DIR input on the J8 driver. Connect the orange stripe wire to the PUL input on the J8 driver. Connect 15cm long green jumper wire to the J...
Page 335 Use keystone punch down tool to secure the solid green jumper wire to terminal #6 on keystone jack. Use keystone punch down tool to secure the green stripe wire from the first keystone jack to terminal #6 on the second keystone jack.
Page 336 Use keystone punch down tool to secure the solid blue wire from the first keystone jack to terminal #4 on the second keystone jack. Secure the blue stripe wire from the first keystone jack to terminal #5 on the second keystone jack. Install second keystone jack in enclosure as shown.
Page 337 You will need to set the drives dip switch settings. If your 7 or 8 axis is a nema 17 motor as shown in this chapter then use the same driver settings as the robot uses for joint 1 or joint 3.
Page 338 Place template on corner of aluminum Drill all 16 holes to clearance 5mm plate as shown and then use spring screw. loaded center punch to mark the 4 holes. Rotate and flip template to each corner and repeat until all 16 holes are marked. Countersink all 16 holes.
Page 339 Place drive mount on plate aligned on Drill and tap (x4) M4 holes as shown. centerline. Use spring loaded center punch to mark (x4) holes. Center J1 base enclosure as shown and Drill and tap (x4) M8 holes as shown. mark (x4) mounting holes.
Page 340 Drill and tap (x2) M4 holes centered 30mm apart and 30mm from edge as shown. When complete aluminum plate should be drilled as shown in this drawing.
Page 341 Install (x4) linear bearings with block Secure drive mount assembly to spacers between auminum plate and aluminum plate as shown using (x4) bearing as shown. Secure with (x16) M4x20 socket head cap screws. M5x20 flat head screws. (do not fully tighten M5 screws yet) Mount the first rail to your table or workspace.
Page 342 Slide aluminum plate & front pair of linear Secure rear rail with screws in each bearing onto the front rail which is mounting hole using wood screws or cap secured to table. The rear rail is still free screws depending on the surface you are –...
Page 343 With platform at maximum travel to the left Turn screw manually and drive platform to side secure lead screw bearing and bearing far end. Secure opposite lead screw bearing spacer to work table as shown. and bearing spacer as shown at very end of screw.
Page 344 Temporarily install motor and bracket and Remove motor and secure motor mount use pencil to mark motor mount location. to work table as shown. Reinstall motor using (x4) M3x10 socket Secure robot to platform using (x4) head cap screws. M8x35 metric bolts. Tighten shaft coupler set screws.
Page 345 Remove 1.5cm of the jacket from each end of the remaining 175cm long 4 conductor cable. Next strip the end of each individual wire as shown. Remove the screw and cover from (1) female GX16-4 connectors.
Page 346 Slide GX16 connector cover over the end of the cable as shown. Solder the cable wire to the GX16 terminals as follows: #1 – BLACK #2 – RED #3 – WHITE #4 – GREEN...
Page 347 Reinstall connector cover, install retaining screw and tighten the cable clamp. Slide a 6 to 8cm long piece of 6mm heat shrink tubing over the other end of the cable.
Page 348 Solder and heat shrink the cable wires to the motor wires as follows: • Motor Red to cable • Motor Green to cable Green Motor Black to cable • Black Motor Blue to cable • White. Slide larger 6mm heat shrink tube over the individual connections and apply heat to shrink tubing.
Page 349 Connect 24vdc power supply to auxiliary enclosure. Connect Ethernet cable from left jack to the robot. With the robot powered on and the auxiliary enclosure powered on you should now be able to jo...
Page 350 Connect motor cable to auxiliary enclosure GX14 socket for axis 7. With the robot and auxiliary enclosure both powered on you should now be able to jog the 7 or 8 axis from the robot control software. If you would like to add a homing switch or calibration switch to your auxiliary axis you will need to either...
Page 351 Mount the limit switch in whatever position you need for your additional axis. Note the blue wire is for a limit switch for axis 8. You will need to jumper or extend the solid and stripe green wires to any additional limit swtiches.
Page 352 CHAPTER 6 ROBOT SPECIFICATIONS & DIAGRAMS...
Page 354 Reach – 24.75 inches (62.9cm) Payload – 4.15 lbs (1.9kg) Repeatability - .2mm Robot weight (aluminum) – 27lbs (12.25kg) Enclosure weight – 12.5lbs (5.6kg) Max Power Consumption – 8.25amp (198 watts)
Page 357 CHAPTER 7 STARTUP PROCEEDURE Please see the AR4 startup tutorial video: https://youtu.be/OL6lXu8VU4s Before powering up your robot double check all connections per the wiring schematic. Check continuity on all wires and connectors for each motor, encoder and limit switch. It is imperative that all wire connectors are crimped or soldered carefully and checked with a volt meter.
Page 358 • Review the AR4 software startup video found on the tutorials page at www.anninrobotics.com and install the AR4 teensy 4.1 sketch on your teensy board and load the AR4 control software on your computer or laptop. • After starting up the AR4 control software verify the log screen shows the message “COMMUNICATIONS STARTED WITH TEENSY 4.1 BOARD”...
Page 359 • If any of the motors do not move at all there are generally 2 things to look for, first check the motor power wiring for the A+A-B+B- wires, this includes checking the wiring between the drivers and the sockets, checking the cables, try swapping motor cables with a known good cable, check the plug wiring in the base of the robot.
Page 361 • After verifying each joint is jogging in the correct direction the next task is to verify each joint is jogging the correct distance. You can use a mechanical angle gauge but a digital angle gauge such as the one shown in the general assembly notes.
Page 362 • If you find a joint is not moving the correct distance the primary thing to check is the micro step settings on the driver, if the settings are incorrect the joint will not move the correct distance. The other mistake that I have seen is when the motors for J1 and J3 get mixed up and installed on the wrong joint.
Page 363 • If you find any of the limit switches are not responding first use a meter to verify that you are getting 5v on the left and center terminals of the distribution block in the base of the robot, then check that you are getting 3.3v on the right and center terminals of the distribution block.
Page 364 • The J4 timing screw may need to be adjusted so that it contacts the limit switch when joint 4 is rotated. Make sure the 24vdc power to the robot is turned off and then rotate J4 until the M3x6 button head screw contacts the limit switch.
Page 365 • Next we will check all the encoders, on the Config Settings tab uncheck the check boxes for disabling the encoders: • Load the encoder testing program. Press the play button to run the program. When the program is running the system message in the manual entry field at the bottom of the screen will display a value of 1000 for each joint.
Page 366 • When testing the encoders the 1000 number and the number of counts it shows are arbitrary and only meant to show you a display of the encoder functioning. • If you find any of the encoders are not responding in either direction double check all of the wiring including the wiring of the keystone jacks as outlined in the previous section on checking the limit switch wiring.
Page 367 • If you jog a joint and you get a joint collision alarm check and see which direction the joint value is displaying – for example if you jog joint number one 10 degrees in the positive direction but the encoder corrects the display to show it actually moved 10 degrees in the negative direction you will need to reverse the AB phase being read in on the teensy.
Page 368 • This example is for joint #3, in the picture below I have properly calibrated joints 1 and 2 first so that joint 2 is at a perfect 90 degrees, then I ran the calibration for joint 3 and then placed a digital level on the upper robot arm. You can see in this picture the joint is at an angle of 2.8°...
Page 369 This concludes the startup procedure, please review all the setup and programming videos on the tutorials page at www.anninrobotics.com...
Page 370: Robot Programming
CHAPTER 8 ROBOT PROGRAMMING Please see the AR4 programming tutorial video: https://youtu.be/G1nNh6MS-Gc 1. COMMUNICATION 2. SPEED / ACCELERATION / DECELERATION 3. JOGGING 4. PROGRAMMING 5. CALIBRATION...
Page 371 1. COMMUNICATION Determine which com port your Teensy 4.1 and Arduino is communicating on, you can find this Using Windows device manager, or you can open the Arduino sketch and click on the tools menu and then click on Port. Enter this in the "COM PORT" entry field for the device and click "Set Com".
Page 372 2. SPEED / ACCELERATION / DECELERATION The robots speed is set as a percentage of max speed. If you set the speed to 100 this will be the fastest the robot can move. Typical speed for jogging is between 10% and 25%. The acceleration and deceleration settings each have 2 parameters: a duration and a percentage.
Page 373 3. JOGGING In the degrees to jog box enter the number of degrees you wish the robot to move and then press the corresponding "-" or "+" button to move each joint.. The second row of jog buttons allow you to jog the robot in Cartesian coordinates; enter the distance in millimeters you wish the robot to move and press the corresponding "-"...
Page 374 Press the A button to shift to Cartesian jogging, you then can jog axis X and Y using the D pad. Press the X button again to shift to axis Z. Press the B button to control orientation directions. - jog distance up / down (L & R trigger buttons) - speed up / down (L &...
Page 375 3. PROGRAMMING a. Teaching Positions Always select row in program window where you want the next move or instruction to be placed. From the move type drop down button select the move type you wish to insert and then press the "Teach New Position"...
Page 376 - Move A - Move A is an arc move. You must teach 3 points to form an arc. First select "Move A beg" and teach the start point for your arc - the speed and orientation values for this first point will be applied to the entire arc move.
Page 377 . Your command window will now have 3 lines of code in a row for each of the 3 points. When a "Move C Start" line of code is executed the program will automatically run the next 2 lines of code to calculate the circle.
Page 378 - Move SP - SP stands for stored position. In the registers tab there are 16 stored positions you can set. You can set or save the X,Y,Z,Y,P,R for any position you want to execute later or multiple places in your program. When you teach a Move SP the robot will move to the position you have entered for the stored position on the register tab.
Page 379 - Teach SP - this move command will insert 6 lines into your program which when executed will store the robots current position into a stored position register of your choice. This makes it easier to populate stored positions as you need. The Stored Position button will allow you to enter lines of code that set individual elements of the X,Y,Z,Y,P,R in a stored position.
Page 380 c. IO - The set output on or set output off buttons allow you to insert a line of code that will turn Arduino IO of your choice on or off (see bottom on input outputs tab for available IO pins on the Arduino Mega).
Page 381 - the "Create Tab" button allows you to create markers in your program that you can jump or navigate to based on conditions. *note you cannot have 2 tabs with the same number - each tab needs a new number. This functionality is very similar to basic programming.
Page 382 e. Registers The "Register" button allows you to set a register to a static value or you can add a "++" before the number and the register will then be incremented by the amount. For example, if you just enter a "1" it will always set that register to a value of 1 but if you enter "++1"...
Page 383 g. Editing lines of code You can select a line of code in you command window and then press the "get selected" button, this will copy that line into the manual entry field. You can now edit the line of code in the manual entry field, some examples might be: changing the stored position number, changing a position, changing the robot speed or acceleration.
Page 384 4. CALIBRATION a. Auto Calibration Pressing the auto calibration button will auto calibrate all axis. The robot will run to its full limit in the default directions and set each of the joint values accordingly. You can also use the individual buttons to calibrate each axis one at a time.
Page 385 5. IO TAB The buttons on the IO tab are simply a shortcut for you to quickly toggle servos or outputs. For example, if your gripper was wired to Arduino output #38 you could enter 38 into one of the "DO ON / OFF"...
Page 386: Version Log
Version Log: • 3/24/24 – original issue • 6/15/24 – fixes several typos and updated J3 spindle pic on page 123 • 7/22/24 – fixed screw count on BOM & typo on page 57...

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