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Star Sirius Service Manual

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Star EV Sirius Service Manual

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Summary of Contents for Star Sirius

Page 1 Star EV Sirius Service Manual V1.05 www.starev.com...
Page 2 Contacts to know Star EV Technical Support 864-549-7224 Robby Dickens: Technical Support Manager Jonathan Torres: Technical Writer Kevin Ayers: Technical Support Terry Hu: Electrical Engineering Shannon Powell: Warranty Specialist www.starev.com www.starev.com www.starev.com...
Page 3 Hi there folks! This is Jonathan, from the Star EV technical support team! I’ve been given the monumental task of writing this service manual for the Star Sirius vehicle for you, our dedicated dealers and service techs. There are a few things I hope to convey through this manual: •...
Page 4 Table of Contents Component Locations ..................5 Identification Locations .................6 Lift Points ......................7 Maintenance Points ..................8 Maintenance Intervals ..................9 Necessary Tools List ..................10 2P Component Locations ................11 4P Component Locations ................13 Fuse Assignments ...................15 Care and Maintenance ................16 Body .........................27 Motor .......................77 Sensors ......................80...
Page 5 Component Locations Fluids and Capacities Component Fluid Type Capacity Brake Master Cylinder (4 DOT 3 Brake Fluid To fill line on reservoir and 4+2) Rear Differential 75W/90 GL-5 Gear Oil 21oz. or .65L Bulbs and Lighting Light Type Bulb Serviceable Headlight Brake Light Running Light...
Page 6 Identification Locations The chassis number is located inside the passenger front wheel well area, and mounted to the frame. You will see it if you look above and behind the right front wheel. The raw serial number is located right beside the chassis number. These two numbers are for internal use only.
Page 7 Lift Points 2P Lift Points 4P Lift Points Jack or Lift Lift Points Jack Lift Points Watch: How to put a vehicle on the lift safely www.starev.com...
Page 8 Maintenance Points Tire Types Air Pressure (in PSI) Lifted and Non-lifted 20PSI Grease Points Upper and Lower Ball Joints Trailing Arm Bushings Steering Intermediate Shaft Front Wheel Bearings (2 and 2+2) www.starev.com...
Page 9 Maintenance Intervals Component(s) 1 month or 1800 2700 3600 150 miles Miles Miles Miles Miles √ √ √ √ √ Check battery cable torque √ √ √ √ √ Check and adjust sealed lead acid water level-distilled water only √ √...
Page 10 Necessary Tools List Maintenance Brakes Soldering Gun with Solder Bearing Packer Vacuum Brake Bleeder Wire Strippers/Cutters Grease Gun IR Thermometer Solder-seal connectors Zip ties of various sizes Drum Brake Micrometer Wire Crimpers Tire Tread Depth Gauge Pneumatic Air Operated Crimp-on electrical Tire Pressure Gauge Brake Bleeder with Auto-Refill connectors...
Page 11 2P Component Locations Throttle Sensor Electronic hood latch Horn Backup Beeper Cruise Control Switches Charger interlock www.starev.com...
Page 12 Lithium Short Car Charger interlock Lithium Charger Solenoid (Contactor) Motor Controller Converter Fuses Noise Generator Fuse Block Lead-acid Short Car Charger interlock Solenoid (Contactor) Motor Controller Fuses Converter Noise Generator Fuse Block Batteries 12 | www.starev.com...
Page 13 4P Component Locations Lead-acid charger Horn Backup Beeper Solenoid (Contactor) Throttle Sensor Controller Cruise Control Switches Key Switch Fuses Charger interlock Master Cylinder Batteries The lead-acid chargers are located under the front of the vehicle on both models. The motor houses the encoder and thermistor.
Page 14 Lead-acid Long Car Converter Fuse Block Noise Generator Lithium Long Car Lithium Charger Converter Fuse Block Noise Generator 14 | www.starev.com...
Page 15 Fuse Assignments Brake Lights 15A Spare 10A Dash Lights, USB port, Trunk Release Button, Accessory Outlet 15A Flasher/Hazard Lights, Brake Lights 10A Spare 15A Exterior Lights 15A www.starev.com...
Page 16 Care and Maintenance For general exterior care, immediately remove any corrosives that may have come in contact with the vehicle. These can include, but are not limited to tree sap, eggs, bird droppings, tar, dead bugs, winter road salts, construction fallout such as sand or demolition silt.
Page 17 Seats & Seating Care and Cleaning One of our most frequently asked questions, is how to clean marks from seats. There is a delicate balance between removing the marks from the seats, and damaging or fading the seat material. What we have found is that most marks will respond well to a general wax and grease remover.
Page 18 Seating Options The Sirius vehicle has a folding lower seat cushion, which folds forward on two hinges at the leading edge. This style folding seat is used on the forward facing seats. Each seat is equipped with a lap seatbelt, which locks into a buckle toward the center of the vehicle.
Page 19 Installing a Rear Flip-seat To remove the sweater basket, you will need a 5mm Allen socket, with ratchet and a 13mm wrench. For the flip-seat installation, you will need a drill with 3/8” drill bit, an impact wrench, ratchet, 10mm wrench, 10mm socket, 13mm wrench, 13mm socket, 17mm wrench, 16mm socket, 5mm Allen socket and Phillips screwdriver or bit.
Page 20 Start by using the 5mm Allen socket and 13mm wrench to remove the four bolts that secure the sweater basket to the rear roof supports. Pull the basket out and away from the roof supports to remove it from the cart. Locate the flip seat backrest frame.
Page 21 The drill bit will pass completely through the bag well, so that the bolts can pass through and attach the seat base to the cart. Locate the large bolts in the seat kit’s hardware kit. Attach a flat fender washer and install into the holes that were just drilled through the bag well.
Page 22 Install the longer M6 bolts with flat washers and lock washers into the seat base holes, going into the front armrest holes, with the captive nuts in them. Install the shorter M6 black bolts with lock washers and flat washers, into the front seat base holes, where they go into the rear legs of the armrests.
Page 23 You can now begin tightening all the bolts on the entire seat kit thus far. Begin with the 13mm bolts in the U-channel. Tighten these bolts fully. Now tighten the bolts at the bottom of the golf bag well, using the 16mm socket, ratchet and 17mm wrench.
Page 24 Using the supplied bolts, you will attach the bottom of the grab bar. These bolt will pass through the flanged bolt holes that you just hooked into the foot plate. The top holes of the grab bar will receive the removable clevis pins.
Page 25 Using a ratchet and 10mm socket, you will install and tighten these bolts into the seat cushion back cover. Using the supplied hardware, you will attach the seat backrest brackets. Install these brackets so that the slotted hole is toward the edge of the seat that will be facing down when installed onto the cart.
Page 26 Using the SS M8x25mm Button Head Allen bolts, flat washers and nylon nuts, attach the seat belt buckles to the center tabs of the seat belt bar. Leave these bolts slightly loose until the bar is installed into the flip seat. Use the rest of the M8x25mm bolts to attach the seat belt retractors to the ends of the seat belt bar.
Page 27 White Diamond Pearl WA800J Soul Red Orange Bright Teal L6518 Purple Metallic P3283 Model Star EV Limited Edition Color Paint Code Sirius Basque Red Pearl R530P 2 Passenger, 2+2, 2+2 Lifted, Desert Bloom Metallic WA928L (Water Based) 4, 4+2, 4+2 Lifted Front Body Removal ..................28...
Page 28 Front Body Remove and Install To remove the front body, you will need a trim pry bar tool, Phillips screwdriver, racthet, extension, 16mm socket, small pair of snips, 10mm wrench, 13mm wrench, and 5mm Allen socket. For replacing the front body, you will need to refer to our section on removing the roof, with halo, windshield and front roof supports.
Page 29 Reaching inside the front trunk area, you will disconnect the wiring from the electric trunk release. Disconnect the trunk release cable from the trunk latch. Reaching under the front body, disconnect the wiring for each of the headlights. You are ready to pull upward and out, on the front body.
Page 30 You will need to transfer the headlight assemblies to the new front body. Use a 10mm wrench to remove the four retaining nuts from each headlight assembly. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the bolts that attach the trunk latch. There are two bolts on each side of the latch.
Page 31 Dash Remove and Install To remove the dash, you will need to have a drill with a 13/64” drill bit, ratchet with extension, plastic trim pry bar, 16mm socket, Phillips bit, small and large Phillips screwdrivers, 10mm wrench and a small tool such as a 1/4”...
Page 32 Using a ratchet with 16mm socket, remove the mounting bolts from the bottom of the steering column. Once these are removed, you will let the column tilt down and rest on the seat Along the edge of the outer dash, where it meets the floor, you will find two rivets on each side of the cart.
Page 33 Using a plastic trim removal tool, you will pry upward on the center dash cupholder, releasing the plastic tabs that hold it in the vehicle. Also remove the black, plastic louvered cowl trim by prying it upward to release its tabs. Using a Phillips screwdriver and 10mm wrench, remove the three center screws that attach the dash to the front body.
Page 34 Inside the dash, under the cupholder area, you will see the electric hood release switch button. Using a small Phillips screwdriver, loosen the two wire retaining screws to release the two wires from its back. You will now be able to pull rearward on the dash, until you are able to disconnect the wiring for the interior dash lights.
Page 35 Seat Back Remove and Install For removal of the seat back, you will need a 5mm Allen socket, with a ratchet and extension. These tools will be for removing the two seat back brackets. You will move these brackets to the new seat back before reassembly with the vehicle.
Page 36 The two brackets will be installed on the seat back, with the longer tab facing toward the bottom of the seat back. The threaded bolting surface of the brackets go inward. Bottom With the help of an assistant, you will install the seat back between the rear roof supports, and install the four hand screws.
Page 37 Seat Pod Replacement For replacing the pod seat, you will need a bit driver with 1/4” bit or 1/4” ratchet with 8mm socket, a 17mm deep socket, two 13mm wrenches, 10mm wrench, a Phillips socket bit, a Phillips screwdriver, a ratchet and a 5mm Allen socket.
Page 38 With a 17mm deep socket, and a 13mm wrench, remove the plastic lower cushion locating pin. The socket will go over the pin, while the wrench will hold and remove the nut from the bottom. Capture and retain all hardware for reinstallation later. Using two 13mm wrenches, remove the two through-bolts at the front of the seat brackets.
Page 39 Disconnect the main battery cables from the battery, to prevent accidental contact with the main leads at the controller. At the bottom front of the seat pod floor, you will find two 13mm bolts. These two bolts pass down through the pod seat frame feet, into the floor of the vehicle.
Page 40 Using a Phillips socket bit, remove the screws the hold the controller to its mounting plate. Remove and set aside the controller. Using the Phillips socket bit, remove the screws that attach the controller mounting plate to the pod seat frame.
Page 41 Seatbelt Remove and Install The 4 passenger vehicle has all the mounting bolts exposed, on the front seatbelt components. For the seatbelt clasp, you can reach the mounting bolt from outside the vehicle. Using an 8mm Allen socket and ratchet, remove the mounting bolt and then the clasp.
Page 42 Using a 16mm socket on a ratchet, and a 17mm wrench, remove the mounting bolt and nut. This is done through the seatbelt pocket hole. Replacement is the reverse of removal. To access the mounting bolt for the retractors, you will need to remove the wheel and inner fender liner for the side of the retractor you need to replace.
Page 43 Golf Bag Holder Installation This repair will require a ratchet with a 5mm Allen socket, a ratchet and a 13mm wrench. You will remove the two Allen head bolts that attach the golf bag holder to the golf bag holder assembly.
Page 44 Golf Bag Holder Strap Installation With a 4mm Allen socket, ratchet, and 10mm wrench, you will be able to remove and replace the golf bag holder strap. In the center of the golf bag holder strap, you will find a 4mm Allen head bolt attaching the strap to the golf bag holder.
Page 45 You will thread the new strap through the golf bag holder in the same order that the old strap came out. Using a drill and a 1/4” drill bit, you will place a hole in the center of the golf bag holder strap. Once this is done, you will install the strap bolt, washers and retaining nut.
Page 46 Golf Bag Holder Basket Installation To replace the golf bag holder basket, you will only need a ratchet, a 5mm Allen socket, and a 13mm wrench. Each side of the basket has a mounting bolt and nut holding it to the golf bag holder assembly.
Page 47 Golf Bag Assembly Installation Using a ratchet, 5mm Allen socket and 13mm wrench, you will remove the four mounting bolts. There are two bolts on each side of the golf bag holder assembly. Capture and keep all hardware from the golf bag holder assembly mounting bolts.
Page 48 Tag Bracket Installation When installing the Sirius license plate bracket, with the tag illumination light, great care must be taken when tapping into the vehicle’s wiring. If after installing the bracket, the right turn signal doesn’t operate properly, or turns on and blinks with the daytime running light, recheck to make sure the wiring was installed correctly.
Page 49 Installing a Brush Guard To be able to install your brush guard, you will need • 4-M8x1.25x110mm bolts • 4-M8x1.25x25mm bolts • 12-M8 flat fender washers • 4-M8 lock washers • 4-M8x1.25 nylon lock nuts To begin the installation, you will need to remove the front bumper cover.
Page 50 The holes that you will need to mark, are the holes closest to the center of the brush guard mounting bracket. In the photo, you will see the holes that are used. You will now install the brush guard, using the short bolts, 8 of the M8 flat washers, and the 4-nylon lock nuts.
Page 51 Headlight Replacement These are the mounting points for the Sirius headlight assembly. Two of the bolts are almost impossible to reach without removing the front body of the vehicle. There is an access hole behind each dash side storage compartment, but the bolts cannot be reached through these holes.
Page 52 Once all the rivets are removed, you will pull outward on the sides of the front body, where they meet the rocker panel until their tabs are free from the black trim. Next, slide the rubber roof support boots upward, so that the front body can slide upward on the roof supports.
Page 53 There is no easy way to reach the headlight retaining bolts, but we’ve found this is the easiest way to get to them. The bolts have nuts on the back side, and they are all 10mm. Once you are done replacing the headlight, you should test the headlight for operation, then you will need to carefully lower the front body back into place.
Page 54 Hood Latch Cable Replacement Inside the passenger side dash compartment, you will see the hood latch, beside a round black access cover. Pull the hood latch to open the trunk if possible. Use the power hood release button if the cable is broken.
Page 55 Now you will be able to fish the cable out of its hole, out above the right front headlight, and out to the front of the vehicle. At this point, we will start to work inside the front trunk compartment. Watch: How to open Sirius hood when cable breaks www.starev.com...
Page 56 Take the cable end ball, and push it toward the cable end. This will force the cable into its sheath, and push the ball end up at the other end of the cable. Here you will see how the ball end is extended up above its land. This will now let you manipulate it easier.
Page 57 Feed the cable around the side of the front trunk compartment, and then over the right front headlight. It is a very snug fit, but you are looking to feed it toward and into the access hole where you removed the access cover. Your cable will now be sticking out the access hole in the right side of the dash.
Page 58 Hood Replacement To replace the hood, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, whether manual or powered. You will also need a 10mm wrench. Start by pulling the hood release. This will let the hood open, for replacement. With the hood open, you will find a Phillips screw that acts as the hinge pivot.
Page 59 Keep the screws, washers and nuts for reassembly. With the 10mm wrench, hold the hood latch screw stationary while removing the Phillips screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Keep the hood latch hardware, for installation into the new hood. Lifting the hood latch away from the hood, together with the screws will allow you to move the whole subassembly over to the new hood.
Page 60 Folding Windshield Replacement For replacing the folding windshield, you will need a Phillips screwdriver and a 10mm wrench. Loosen the windshield mounting screws on one side of the windshield. Once the screws are loosened on one side, you will remove the two nuts and set them aside with their washers.
Page 61 Hook two windshield slots over the two remaining grommets in the front roof supports. Then install the grommets that came away with the windshield, into the two open slots in the new windshield. Insert the two transferred screws into the open roof support holes.
Page 62 Glass Windshield Installation To install the glass windshield, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, 10mm wrench, and a drill with a 1/4” drill bit. It will also be helpful to have a silver Sharpie marker for marking the position of the holes, for drilling. For mounting the glass windshield, you will need two strips of 1”x5/16”...
Page 63 Start by drilling the two top holes. These holes are above the side mirrors, so there isn’t a danger of piercing the turn signal wiring, coming from the mirrors. Drill the holes all the way through the front roof supports. For the lower windshield holes, you will drill through the front surface of the roof support only.
Page 64 2 Passenger Roof Replacement To install the two passenger roof, you will need a ratchet, a 5mm Allen socket, a 13mm wrench along with a drill and 3/8” drill bit. With the Allen socket, ratchet and wrench, loosen and remove all the bolts, and hardware from the tops of the roof supports.
Page 65 2+2P, 4+2P Roof Replacement To replace the 2+2 or 4+2 roof, you will need an impact wrench, with a 5mm Allen socket and a 13mm wrench. Remove all the bolts that attach the roof to the roof halo. For the 2+2, there are 10 bolts. For the 4+2, there are 14 bolts.
Page 66 2+2P, 4+2P Roof Halo Replacement This replacement begins with the roof removed, in the previous section. The tools needed, are the same as in the roof replacement section. The handles along the sides of the roof halo should come attached to the new roof halo, so you will not need to remove them from the old unit, unless you would like to retain them for your stock inventory.
Page 67 4P Front Roof Support Replacement These tools will be needed, in order to replace the front roof support on the four passenger Sirius. These are an impact wrench, ratchet, 16mm socket, extension, Phillips screwdriver, pair of snips, 10mm wrench, 13mm socket, a few zip ties, and a 5mm Allen socket.
Page 68 Using the impact wrench and extension, with 16mm socket attached, you will locate and remove the bolts that connect the roof support into its sockets above the front wheels. These bolts are located above the front wheels and point straight upward.
Page 69 Returning to the extendible support pole, push upward on the roof, while extending the pole upward. You will be able to gain 6-8 inches of additional room now, with all the front bolts removed. From the front of the vehicle, grasp both sides of the front roof support. It may be helpful to have an assistant for this step.
Page 70 Rear Roof Support Replacement To replace the rear roof support, you will need a ratchet or impact wrench, 13mm wrench, 5mm Allen socket, 13mm deep socket, 16mm socket, and an extension. To begin, use the 5mm Allen socket and 13mm wrench to remove the bolts that attach the roof halo to the rear roof supports.
Page 71 Under the bottom flip seat cushion base, you will find two 13mm bolts that hold the cushion base to the flip seat frame. Remove these two bolts and capture all the hardware for reinstallation. Using the 13mm socket and wrench, remove the four bolts that hold the upper flip seat frame to the rear roof supports.
Page 72 Rear Body Replacement To replace the rear body, you will need an impact wrench with 5mm Allen socket, 13mm wrench, 10mm wrench, 8mm wrench, 17mm wrench, 13mm socket, 17mm socket, 16mm socket, 8mm socket, ratchet, extension, and #1 and #3 Phillips bits.
Page 73 Using the impact wrench and a Phillips driver bit, you will remove the three screws that go along the back edge of the bag well, to attach the rear bumper. Moving into the wheel well area, you will remove the bolts that connect the rear bumper to the rear body.
Page 74 With the Phillips bit, and 10mm wrench, remove the two screws that secure each of the seat hinges. These screws also hold the rear body to the seat frame. Using the same tools, remove the two screws and nuts on each side of the body.
Page 75 Using an 8mm socket, remove the four screws in each rear inner fender liner. You will pull out and remove the fender liners and set aside. With a small pair of snips, you will cut the zip ties that hold the tail light wiring to the rear frame.
Page 76 Replacing the Tail Light To remove the tail light assembly, you will need an impact wrench with wheel nut socket, an 8mm bit driver or nut driver socket, and 8mm wrench. After removing the wheel on the side you’ll be working on, use the nut driver bit to remove the 4 self-tapping screws that attach the inner fender liner in the wheel well.
Page 77 Motor Description: The Star Sirius vehicles boast a series of powerful and dependable motors, with an emphasis on quiet operation. The 2 passenger models deliver 5.4hp (4Kw) AC motors, coupled with a 350 amp Curtis controller. This is the QDS motor with built- in thermistor.
Page 78 Testing your motor For the AC motor, we will test for resistance between the motor phases. Each terminal has a letter designation and we’ll test between each, while noting the resistance reading. To begin, disconnect the motor leads. This will test the motor integrity by itself.
Page 79 As with any electrical circuit, tight and clean connections are a must. Be sure to check that all of the terminals have sufficient torque and that they’re not corroded. Try to physically move the leads, to see if they’re weakened or loose. You can also check the resistance of the cables.
Page 80 Sensors Description: The sensors on the Sirius vehicle, consist of the Encoder and the Thermistor. The controller has some sensors built into it, for measuring voltage, but these are the ones that are outside of the controller. Table of Contents Testing Encoders-Curtis ..................81...
Page 81 Testing Encoders-Curtis There are several symptoms that may be related to bad encoders or encoder signals. Some of these issues can be accidentally caused by replacing a motor, and programming the controller for the new encoder. If a motor has been replaced and the cart won’t move, the encoder will need to be programmed.
Page 82 Each of the encoders consist of roughly the same components. There is the sensor, which picks up an induced signal each time a tooth passes by it on a toothed reluctor wheel. Some things that can go wrong are related to the air gap between the wheel and sensor, or movement between either component, but this is rare.
Page 83 There are a few ways to check encoders. You can use a voltmeter, or oscilloscope, or the Curtis handheld programmer. We’ll concentrate on the handheld programmer in this manual, since most Star dealers have access to these units and they have the ability to change the parameters if needed.
Page 84 If there is an rpm signal on the Motor Speed A and Motor Speed B lines, then we can move on to the next step. This means that the signal is currently being reported to the controller. Now scroll up to Motor RPM. You should see zero rpm when the cart is sitting stationary. Slowly push the cart forward.
Page 85 To Swap Motor Phases To swap motor phases, back out to the main menu screen and click on Parameters. Then scroll down to where you see Motor. Press the right arrow to enter the Motor menu. Once inside the motor menu, scroll down to Feedback Options.
Page 86 Now go to Swap Feedback Direction and change it from OFF to ON. Next you will need to back out one step, and click on Control Algorithms. Click on the right arrow, and you’ll enter the Control Algorithms menu. Now you can press the right arrow on ACIM (Induction Motor).
Page 87 Signs of a bad encoder As promised, we’re going to look at some symptoms that can be caused by a bad, or failing As promised, we’re going to look at some symptoms that can be caused by a bad, or failing encoder.
Page 88 Once the vehicle begins to move, the speed input value will increase. Unlike in the other controllers, this value will not be a negative value when moving in reverse. In this controller, this number will always be positive. The Forward Input and Reverse inputs are used for indicating direction.
Page 89 Once the pin lock has been removed, you will see locking tab slots above each terminal. Using a straight pick, or pinning tool/ paper clip, you will pry upward on the retaining tabs that lock each terminal in their slots. You will de-pin the blue and black wires and swap their positions according to the list: 1) 5V+ (RED)
Page 90 Encoder Testing-MCX Controller When testing the motor encoder, through the MCX controller, it is a very straightforward process. Begin by connecting your laptop computer to the controller, through the diagnostic port. Open the Marxon diagnostic software, connect to the controller, and turn the key to the on position.
Page 91 Now push the vehicle backward. You should see a negative value displayed. In the Vehicle Running Speed display, the controller is only displaying a speed, but not a direction. This is why we need to look at the Motor Current Speed, to make sure there is a direction being recorded.
Page 92 248°F (140°C) the controller will enter into motor cutback mode. Then at 320°F (160°C) the controller will stop motor operation. On the Sirius motor, you will see a two pin connector like the one shown. With a voltmeter, set to measure resistance, you will be able to check the resistance through the thermistor and compare the reading to the table below.
Page 93 Throttle Sensor Testing When testing the throttle assembly on the Sirius vehicle, begin by connecting the Curtis handheld programmer and check for any current faults, with throttle pedal depressed. Then check throttle POT volts, under Monitor>Inputs>Throttle POT, while pressing the throttle pedal down. Voltage should vary from .2V to 4.9V.
Page 94 Replacing the 2P Throttle Sensor To replace the throttle sensor, you will need a small pair of snips, some zip ties and a Phillips screwdriver. Start by cutting all the zip ties that secure the throttle sensor wiring harness to the frame of the vehicle.
Page 95 Replacing the 4P Throttle Sensor The tools needed to replace the 4P throttle sensor are the same as for the 2P vehicle. Using the small pair of snips, you will cut the zip ties that secure the wiring harness to the frame rail under the cart. Pull the frame tie point bands back from around the harness.
Page 96 In comparison, the 2P throttle sensor has a “D” shaped input shaft whereas the 4P sensor has a straight blade style input shaft. Be sure to align the shaft and sensor port to each other when installing. Reinstall the mounting screws, and reconnect the wiring, to complete installation.
Page 97 Replacing the Motor To replace the motor, you will need a ratchet with a 13mm socket, a 14mm socket, small pair of snips, 14mm wrench, 16mm wrench and either a 4mm or 5mm Allen socket depending on the year of the vehicle. You will also need a jack with jack stands, or a dead man to support the rear end while working on the motor.
Page 98 Place the dead man support under the center of the rear end assembly. If you are using an overhead vehicle lift, be sure to place a safety strap over the vehicle floor, so that the vehicle doesn’t fall off the lift when you put pressure under the rear end.
Page 99 With the connectors unplugged, you will be able to release a little more pressure on the dead man. Lower the rear end while watching the three motor cables. They will be secured to the frame member with zip ties. Cut the zip ties with the snips.
Page 100 Reverse these steps to reinstall the new motor. Place a small dab of the high temperature grease to the input shaft splines of the new motor. Be aware that the motor lead connections are labeled where they connect to the motor. They are labeled ‘W’, ‘V’...
Page 101 If the charger will not turn on, these connections will need to be checked first. The Lester Charger Connect app can be invaluable for diagnosing charging issues on Star Sirius vehicles. Table of Contents Lester Charger Identification ................102 Resetting your charger .................103...
Page 102 Lester Charger Identification The Lester charger has an identification number located under the barcode on the white ID label. This number consists of four digits, a ‘W’, followed by another four digits. The first two digits before the ‘W’ are the week designation. The second two digits before the ‘W’ are the year designation.
Page 103 Resetting your charger You may run into an issue where your charger will not operate, on a lead-acid battery equipped vehicle. The charger may only light the blue AC present LED. Or, the charger may have a blinking amber light but no actual charging is taking place.
Page 104 On your smartphone, you can download the Lester Charger Connect app. This app will allow you to communicate with the Lester charger in Star vehicles. Once you have downloaded and started the app, you will see this screen. The app will continue to install and open.
Page 105 Once the app is open, it will automatically begin to search for nearby chargers that can be connected to. This is why the charger cord needs to be connected and the charger operating. The list will populate with the accessible chargers within range of your phone.
Page 106 When you click on the menu button, at the top left corner of the screen, you will see some options are “grayed out” until you click the Stop Charging button on the main Dashboard screen. Once you hit Stop Charging, all the options will become available in the menu screen.
Page 107 You are now able to unplug your charger cord, or charge your battery to full capacity as normal. Here are some of the most common battery profiles you will need for Star vehicles. www.starev.com...
Page 108 Dual Voltage Systems The 22252 profile is able to charge dual voltages, either 36V or 48V. For this reason, you must also enable the auto detect feature in the charger, when using this profile. You must finish all the previous steps, for changing the charger profile, before enabling this feature.
Page 109 On your smartphone, you can download the Lester Charger Connect app. This app will allow you to communicate with the Lester charger in Star vehicles. Once you have downloaded and started the app, you will see this screen. The app will continue to install and open.
Page 110 Once the app is open, it will automatically begin to search for nearby chargers that can be connected to. You will need to plug in the charger cord and connect it to the wall outlet, so that the charger is able to operate.
Page 111 When you click on the menu button, at the top left corner of the screen, you will see some options are “grayed out” until you click the Stop Charging button on the main Dashboard screen. Once you hit the Stop Charging button, all the options will become available in the menu screen.
Page 112 Get 10 Records button or the Get All Records button, the records are now stored in your phone. Now we can upload the records to the Cloud, so that they can be accessed by Star technical support or Lester technical support. 112 |...
Page 113 Uploading your charger histories to the cloud. Once you’ve clicked either of the buttons to get records, you will be brought to this screen. Click on the Start button, to begin the download process. You will see the progress bar moving across the screen, showing how much time is left for the full download.
Page 114 You will see a notification pop up, indicating that the upload took place successfully. We, Star tech support, will now be able to access the records remotely. Be sure to have your charger ID number ready, when you call or email tech support. We won’t be notified that records have been uploaded, unless you contact us.
Page 115 Replacing the Charger-SLA To replace the SLA charger, you will need some zip ties, a small pair of snips, a 14mm socket or wrench, a ratchet with a 10mm deep socket, a short extension (preferably wobble), a Phillips screwdriver, and a stubby Phillips screwdriver. Begin by disconnecting the battery cables from the batteries.
Page 116 Using the small pair of snips, cut all the zip ties that secure the wiring harnesses leading to the charger. You will need to disconnect this wiring from both ends of the charger in the following steps. Using a Phillips screwdriver, you will loosen the small black screw that retains the black AC cord into the charger on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
Page 117 Moving down to the DC connections, you will find a black plastic cover over the terminals. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the bottom screw. You will need to use a stubby Phillips screwdriver to remove the top screw, due to the limited space over the screw. Set the cover aside, with the screws.
Page 118 The installation is the reverse of removal. But you will want to call attention to how the DC cables are routed through the lower section of their cover. As you can see, the red cable is curled around, to the far side so that it can lay alongside the black cable in the opening.
Page 119 Replacing the Charger-Lithium When replacing the lithium charger, you will need a ratchet with a long extension, a 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench, a 10mm socket, 10mm wrench and a Phillips screwdriver. Start by disconnecting the charger cord from the battery. This is the cord with the blue twist-lock connector.
Page 120 You will now loosen the thumbscrews connecting the computer monitor style DB9 connector to the charger. Disconnect the cable from the charger and position to the side. Using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the screws from the black plastic cover that goes over the DC charging cable connections. Set this cover aside with the screws.
Page 121 The charger should now be free to lift out of the vehicle. Note the position of the feet on the charger legs. They face away from the charger cooling fins. Using a ratchet with a 10mm socket, and the 10mm wrench, you will remove all the bolts that hold the charger legs onto the back of the charger.
Page 122 Batteries Lithium: There are currently three different lithium battery sizes in the Star Sirius line up. These batteries have been hand selected for their reliability and ease of use. To turn on, each battery needs a key switch input, supplied through the red and black wires of the 4-pin connector.
Page 123 Lithium Battery Diagnosis-Won’t Power Up For the Star Sirius Lithium 80Ah, 105Ah and 160Ah batteries to power up, they only need three things. These are: • Key switch input. • The battery power button depressed. • Battery voltage must be above 15 volts.
Page 124 Lithium Battery Diagnosis-Charger Not Working The Star Lithium battery charger must have four inputs in order to work. These inputs are: 1. The battery must be able to turn on. 2. The charger must have AC power present via the charger receptacle.
Page 125 Now we will test the continuity of the rest of the charger cord terminals. There are four wires that need continuity. Two are for the charger signal, which carry power and ground. The other two carry a CAN high and CAN low signal. If you have continuity on all four of these wires, the cord has tested good, and can be ruled out as the cause of a no-charge issue.
Page 126 Lithium Battery Diagnosis-CAN Signal The Star Sirius Lithium battery uses a CAN (Controller Area Network) for communication with other components in the vehicle. The first of these is the steering column mounted display. If the display shows three red dots overlaid on the state...
Page 127 CAN Harness Resistance Testing When testing the CAN harness, you will need to check both ends of the harness. One end connects to the noise maker, and the other connects to the dash display. The connector for the noise maker should be at the rear of the car, even if the car isn’t equipped with a noise maker.
Page 128 Step 4: Now connect the controller connector. You should have only the controller and 4-pin plugged in. Measure resistance across the noise maker CAN connector, and across the display CAN connector. Both of these should read 60 Ω. Step 5: Now disconnect the 4-pin connector. This will leave only the controller plugged in. Measure the resistance across the noisemaker CAN connector, and then the display CAN connector.
Page 129 Checking Internal Voltage Here are the tools you’ll need, to remove the BMS board. The cutters are for cutting the zip tie on the small red wire, that extends over the BMS board. You may also find it helpful to have a flashlight.
Page 130 When the internal packs are visible, you will be able to use a voltmeter to check the actual remaining pack voltage. Set your voltmeter to DC volts. If your meter has a number value near the voltage option, you may need to adjust the setting according to the voltage in the battery, being tested.
Page 131 Internal Lithium Trickle Charging If the battery is below the 15V threshold, you will need to trickle charge the battery. If it is found that one cell needs to be charged, you may need to charge it individually. With batteries that are DTCK, DTDA Bluetooth IDs, you will need to trickle charge these internally. For the battery individual cells, they must be within .4V of each other.
Page 132 Once the cells are within the correct specs, you can connect the 2CH971 with alligator clips, to the main pack terminals. This charger will lift the overall voltage to 42V, which is where the Lester charger can take over and the app can connect. The 2CH971 charger will need to have alligator clips added to it, in order to connect to the terminals inside the battery.
Page 133 DTCK or DTDA did not have the internal provisions for trickle charging. So these batteries will need to be sent to Star EV and a replacement will need to be arranged. If your battery is not one of these, then the following trickle charging steps will apply and can be followed.
Page 134 Continue charging until charged. LED turns green. Green Battery has reached maximum Stop charging. Connect charge possible (42V) with the with Star lithium app trickle charger. and perform battery update. Then connect Lester charger to finish charging. Red-Green Battery is at 42V, or this is a...
Page 135 The battery must reach 42V before the Lester charger can take over. Once the trickle charger gets the battery up to this voltage, you MUST do the battery update. If the battery is not updated, it will falsely tell the charger that it has full charge, so the Lester will not turn on. Once the update is performed, the BMS will now send the ACTUAL SOC to the Lester and allow it to come on and charge the battery further.
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Page 142 For this example, our ID ends in ‘0125’. Now, let’s get the Star lithium app downloaded to your phone. If you have an Android phone, point your camera at the QR code for the Android. Currently, it is the middle QR code.
Page 143 You will see a link pop up on your screen. You will click on this link, to be taken to the download site. A new notification will pop up, asking if you’d like to download the file. Click Download. Your phone will then ask if you’d like to install the application.
Page 144 On the next screen, you’ll be asked if you’d like to install the app. You will click ‘Install’. The app will ask if you’d like to grant access to your device’s location. You can select either of the choices here. Typically, we recommend using ‘While using the app’.
Page 145 On the last screen, you will have the Star lithium app open, and there will be the ‘Search for battery’ button in the center. You are now ready to search for a battery to connect to. Installing app via iOS device To begin with the iOS version, you will need to locate the Bluetooth ID number.
Page 146 As soon as your iOS device camera recognizes the QR code, it will pop up a link which you’ll click to be directed to the Star lithium app, for downloading. Once you’re at the app screen in the Apple app store, you will want to click the Get button.
Page 147 From this point on, the Android and iOS apps will behave the same. It is only during the app installation process where they will differ. In your app, you will click on the button that says ‘Search for battery’. This will show you a progress ring, showing that the app is searching for nearby batteries that can be connected to.
Page 148 If the battery you need to connect to doesn’t turn on, you will not be able to connect to it, and you will need to diagnose the battery issue first. Please refer to the Star Lithium Battery Testing section of this manual for diagnostic steps.
Page 149 Watch: Amp draw testing using the Star lithium app You can click the back button, at the top left of any screen, to return to the home screen. At the top right of the home screen, you will see the ‘Gear’...
Page 150 We’ll look at how to connect your battery to Wi-fi and download any updates. PLEASE NOTE: 1. You will need to have a 2.4Ghz connection on your wi-fi router. 2. You’ll need to know the login and password for your router as well.
Page 151 As you can see, in roughly the middle of the screen, this is already the latest version. But we’ll show how to perform it so that you’ll have the steps in the event an update is needed. Click ‘Connect to WiFi’ at the bottom, then ‘Connect’...
Page 152 The app will begin the connection process, which may take about one minute to fully connect. You may also get a prompt that asks if the app can connect to nearby networks. Click ‘Allow’ for this operation. After the connection is made, it will continue on its own, without any more input from you or the app.
Page 153 Updating the Star lithium battery with the CAN box kit Besides using the Star lithium app, you can use the CAN update box kit. The advantage of using this method, is that you don’t need access to wi-fi, or the phone app to be able to do it.
Page 154 So let’s start by going into the folder and clicking ‘Install 1st’. Install this into your computer, following the on screen prompts. This will put this program icon on your desktop. It looks like a golf cart, as shown. In the ‘Install 2nd’ folder, there are two files, one for a 64bit machine, and one for a 86bit machine.
Page 155 Now that you have this number, you will know which file to install from inside the Install 2nd folder. Once this is installed for a 64bit machine, you will not even need to proceed to the Install 3rd folder. If you have an 86bit machine, you will install that file from the Install 2nd folder, followed by the corresponding 86bit file in the Install 3rd folder.
Page 156 Double click the Golf cart icon for the BMS update software. This will launch the application, and open a prompt that will ask if the program can make changes on your computer. Click ‘Yes’ on this prompt. This will launch the app and allow the computer to connect through the CAN box.
Page 157 Now we’re going to look at how to update the battery if these numbers don’t match. To begin, enter the password ‘energy’ into the password box. Then Click the ‘Select_Software’ button. This will take you to browse your computer for the software that matches your BMS board.
Page 158 Once that software has been selected, it will show in the update box, ready to be written to the BMS. You will also be shown the size of the file. In my case it’s 89Kb. Click the Update_Start button. It will turn green, and you will see the Send amount start to climb.
Page 159 We recommend checking each battery that comes into the shop for the update status. This can be done way easier with the Star lithium app, but this video will come in handy if you don’t have cell signal, a smartphone, or wi-fi access.
Page 160 Lithium BMS Installation Here are the tools you’ll need, to remove the BMS board. The cutters are for cutting the zip tie on the small red wire, that extends over the BMS board. Also, include a flashlight and a 10mm socket with ratchet.
Page 161 Begin by removing the three 10mm bolts that hold the larger wires, as marked by the arrows above. Use a rag or tape, to cover the end of the red wire. It will not arc, when touched to metal, but we do this as a precautionary measure. Remove the screws that hold the BMS mounting plate, into the battery case.
Page 162 Starting with #1 above, disconnect the numbered wiring plugs, from the BMS board in order, from 1-4. And then separate the small black wire from the main ground lead you disconnected in the beginning steps. As you slide the BMS board up and out of the case, you will need to be careful not to snag any wiring or terminals on the peripheral boards.
Page 163 When reconnecting the wiring connections to the BMS board, you will reverse the order they were disconnected in, leaving the large white connector for last (#4). For best contact between the wiring connections, clean off the terminal tamper evident sealant from the eyelets. Be sure to re- seal the inner battery cover with RTV before reinstalling the outer cover.
Page 164 Using the DT Smart Battery app, you can access the Star Lithium battery state of charge. This reading is sent to the steering column mounted display via a CAN network, directly from the battery.
Page 165 Yes No What is the Bluetooth ID number of the battery? ________________________ Is the Star lithium app able to connect to the battery? If so, what is the state of charge? ______________________________________...
Page 166 Battery State of Charge All Star carts need to be fully charged prior to delivery to the end user. On the Sirius steering column display, you will see three red dots overlaid on the battery meter bars. These dots indicate a CAN connection with the battery. If these dots are white, then there is no communication with the battery, and the state of charge will not be accurate.
Page 167 Lithium Range Testing The Star Lithium range test consists of fully charging the battery, setting the trip meter and driving the vehicle until only the last red bar is visible. Be sure to be near your facility at this time. For the lithium batteries, the expected ranges are as follows:...
Page 168 Replacing Lead Acid Batteries For replacing the sealed lead acid batteries, you will need two 13mm wrenches, impact wrench with an extension, 13mm deep and shallow sockets, 14mm deep and shallow sockets, a ratchet, a torque wrench and battery lifting strap. A good practice is to take a photo of, or make a diagram of how the batteries are oriented and how the cables are...
Page 169 The ratchet will help to access the front nuts that retain the battery holdowns, under the lip of the front seat. Moving to the battery holdowns that are toward the center of the battery pack, you will use the same tools to remove their retaining nuts. Pull upward on and remove all the battery holdowns, and set...
Page 170 Lead Acid Date Chart Each Trojan battery has a two Code Month Year digit code engraved on one January 2023 of its terminals. The code is alphanumeric, with one letter and one number. In the images below, you will see examples of February 2023 the engraving.
Page 171 Replacing the Lithium Battery To replace the Star lithium battery, you will need an impact wrench with an extension, a torque wrench, 13mm socket, and a ratchet. Begin with removing the seat bottom cushion. Press the power button on all batteries except the 210Ah. This will turn the battery off.
Page 172 Using the impact wrench, extension and 13mm socket, remove the four battery mounting bolts. Capture all the washers and lock washers that are with these bolts, for reinstallation later. It is best practice to have an assistant help lift the batteries out of the vehicle, to prevent injury and protect the painted surfaces of the vehicle.
Page 173 MCX Controllers To program the MCX motor controller we will need to make a serial data connection from a Windows computer to the motor controller programming port. We will also need the MCX software installed and setup on the computer. Once we complete the connection to the motor controller, the software will provide a button at the top of the screen for Calibration.
Page 174 Overcurrent Faults We are in the process of fine tuning the MCX controller settings for an overcurrent issue. At this time, the TSB will be released as #TE11024.02. As future refinements are made, we will update these TSB’s as needed. These documents are available on our dealer portal, at www. starev.com.
Page 175 Updating MCX Firmware There may be very limited cases of MCX controllers that exhibit an overcurrent fault and fall before the 9-8-2022 software release. To be able to check your controller’s software version data, go under the calibration tab, then click on the tab labeled ‘Version Information’. You will be able to view the software release day, month and year here.
Page 176 Open Screen Reset Screen In the Bootloader software, you will arrive at the open screen. All information will be auto populated in this screen, so no changes will need to be made here. Click the ‘Start Upgrade’ button. The computer will download the firmware update from the web, so you must have wi-fi available for the update to download.
Page 177 Once you have cycled the key, the computer will now begin to erase the old firmware and write the new version into the controller. You will see a progress bar at the bottom of the screen. When the update has reached 100%, you are ready to cycle the key again.
Page 178 MCX Fault List Fault Alarm Severities: Class 1: Main circuit breaker is open, motor is prohibited from working and motor command (accelerator) fails. Class 2: Motor prohibited from operation and motor command (accelerator) fails. Class 3: Battery is undervoltage, limiting the maximum motor speed. Class 5: Limit maximum output torque of the motor.
Page 179 Fault Fault Level Fault Name Code Mechanical failure of electromagnetic brake Battery charger connected Drive motor temperature too high The direction switch is activated simultaneously The interlock switch not activated Wrong start sequence Controller temperature too high Controller temperature sensor faulty Drive motor encoder failure Flash no parameters Flash memory parameter overrun...
Page 180 These controllers can display fault codes via their exterior LED indicator lights, or through the Curtis 1313-4331 handheld programmer. (Star Part Number: 2PR002) Table of Contents Plotting Data Signals ..................181...
Page 181 Plotting Data Signals There are times when you may want to chart an input or output signal from the controller, over a period of time. The Curtis handheld programmer has the capability to do this, to a basic extent. The reason we say basic here, is because of the refresh rate.
Page 182 Next, scroll down to Temperature Control and press the right arrow. This will open the menu for the temperature control parameters. At this point we can scroll to highlight Braking Thermal Cutback Enabled. Once there, click the Add To button below the left When you get to the Add To menu, highlight Plot and press the right arrow.
Page 183 You have now successfully added the Braking Thermal Cutback Enable parameter to the plot variable list. Click Finish to save. You can now back out to the main screen, and scroll down to Plot & Log. Press the Select button. Once you’ve gotten here, you’ll be able to press the right arrow for Plot.
Page 184 The Plot Variables List will show all the variables that will be plotted in the Plot & Log table. You would be well advised to keep this list of variables very short. The total number allowed is 4 or 5. But to make it easier to see on the plot table, it’s best to only have as few as needed.
Page 185 Cloning a .cpf file Here are the steps needed, to clone a .cpf file using your Curtis handheld programmer. This can be needed when you receive or replace a controller and the parameters don’t match up. This can cause drivability issues, as well as phantom fault codes, such as an EMR-REV fault.
Page 186 You will be asked if you’d like to save the settings to a .cpf file. Press the button under OK. On the next screen, you will be asked where you’d like to store the .cpf file that you’re about to copy. Press the right arrow, to enter the Internal menu.
Page 187 1. It is helpful to note that you should use a file name that is vehicle specific. As an example, Sirius 2+2. You can then start to build your own library of .cpf files, over the course of time.
Page 188 This will be followed by a Save successful notification. Now that we have stored the .cpf file into the internal memory of the programmer, we can now begin writing it to the new controller. Begin by connecting to the new controller and pressing the Select button when the Programming icon is highlighted on the home screen.
Page 189 You will see a tab on the screen, telling you the current controller’s information. You will just need to press the button under Restore .cpf. Highlight the tab that says Internal, and press the right arrow. This will take you to the internal memory of the programmer and we’ll be able to look for the files we saved previously.
Page 190 You will see a notification that asks if you’d like to use Advanced Cloning. Press the button under the Yes option. At the next screen, you will be asked if you’d like to proceed with restoring the file. Press the button under OK. Now you’ll be shown a Restore Done prompt.
Page 191 To complete the restore process, you must finish the procedure by cycling the key to the off position for at least 5 seconds. Once you’ve done this, you are now done. You can disconnect your handheld programmer and retest your vehicle’s operation. www.starev.com...
Page 192 Emailing a .cpf File Here are the steps needed, to email a .cpf file from your Curtis handheld programmer. It is best if you know which folder you stored the file in. This will save you time searching through several folders in later steps. First you will need to unplug the cord from the bottom of your handheld programmer.
Page 193 You must go to the side menu and select USB Drive. This will allow you to access the actual folder structure inside the handheld. You will need to locate the folder where you saved the file, inside your handheld. Double click this folder, and then you will be able to find your .cpf file.
Page 194 Testing HPD/Sequencing Fault The HPD fault stands for High Pedal Disable. This fault has the ability to disable a cart, if the fault is stored in the current faults. It is very closely tied to the sequencing fault, but there is one difference that can come into play when diagnosing the two.
Page 195 As shown above, the “Normally” column has the typical value highlighted in blue. For example, if you’re working on a Sirius cart with an HPD fault, with OFF displayed in the Interlock switch input, this would indicate that the charger interlock switch signal is not being input to the controller.
Page 196 With this understanding of how the conditions for an HPD/Sequencing fault cause the fault to set, we will look at the different components and what order they should be checked and ruled out. We have found that the best order of testing is as follows: 1.
Page 197 Supervisor Fault Testing A Supervisor fault means that a digital signal that is normally 0V or 5V, is not reading 0V or 5V. The controller expects to only see either one voltage (low), or the other (high) and anything in between will signal an issue that needs to be corrected. This fault will be set if the voltage is between 1.2V and 4V, and can be set in as little as 100 milliseconds.
Page 198 Contactor Testing Your Star vehicle may not operate, and store a “Main Contactor Welded” fault. If this happens, you will need to know how to check if the contactor is truly welded or not. First, you may need to get the vehicle to move to where it can be diagnosed. In order to do this we can go into the controller and disable the contactor weld check.
Page 199 Scroll down to the Weld Check Enable tab, and use the + (plus) button to disable the weld check. This is only meant to be a temporary disabling of the check. You must turn this setting back on after you’re done repairing the vehicle. This is the only way to stop the controller from looking at the weld check, to allow the vehicle to be moved to the service bay.
Page 200 Now that we know that power is available to the main load side of the contactor, we can check the voltage drop across the contactor itself. If the contactor is pulled closed, you will see zero, or near-zero volts. This means that there is a good connection across the main load circuit.
Page 201 So a little goes a long way. Typically, we have seen carts needing just a little more than the stock setting. For Sirius’, 2.3-2.5 is usually suitable. This value can be adjusted while driving, and retested immediately without resetting the key switch.
Page 202 When adjusting slip gain, there are some factors that may need to be considered. These factors can combine to change the perfect slip gain setting for each vehicle. These important factors are: • Weight of the cargo and/or occupants in the vehicle. •...
Page 203 Curtis Fault List Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Phase current Controller 1. External short of phase U, V Overcurrent or W motor connections. exceeded the current Shutdown Motor; Shutdown 2. Motor parameters are mis- measurement limit.
Page 204 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Capacitor bank Severe B+ 1. Battery menu parameters Undervoltage are misadjusted. voltage dropped below the Reduced drive torque 2. Non-controller system drain Severe Undervoltage limit on battery. with FET bridge enabled. 3.
Page 205 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Capacitor bank B+ Undervoltage 1. Normal operation. Fault Cutback shows that the batteries voltage dropped below the Reduced drive torque need recharging. Undervoltage limit with the Controller is performance- FET bridge enabled.
Page 206 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Digital Output 7 (pin 20) Digital Out 7 Open/ 1. External load impedance Short on Digital Output 7 (pin 20) current exceeded 15mA. Digital Output 7 driver will is too low. not turn on.
Page 207 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Main contactor driver Main open or short 1. Open or short on driver Shutdown Motor; Shutdown load. (pin 6) is either open or Main Contactor; Shutdown 2. Dirty connector pins. shorted.
Page 208 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Motor Sin/Cos sensor Sin/Cos Sensor Fault 1. Sin/cos sensor failure. Shutdown EM brake; 2. Bad crimps or faulty wiring. failure detected. Shutdown Throttle 3. See Monitor menu>Motor: Clear: Cycle KSI. Motor RPM Set: Motor phase U, V, or W Motor Open...
Page 209 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Throttle pot wiper (pin Throttle Wiper Low 1. See Monitor menu>Inputs: Shutdown throttle Throttle Pot. 16) voltage is lower than 2. Throttle pot wiper voltage the low fault threshold (can too low.
Page 210 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: HPD (High Pedal HPD/Sequencing 1. KSI, interlock, direction, Fault and throttle inputs applied Disable) or sequencing Shutdown Throttle in incorrect sequence. fault caused by incorrect 2. Faulty wiring, crimps, or sequence of KSI, interlock, switches at KSI, interlock, direction, and throttle...
Page 211 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: See OEM 51-67 OEM Faults 1. These faults can be (See OEM documentation) defined by the OEM documentation. Clear: See OEM and are implemented in application-specific documentation. VCL code. See OEM documentation.
Page 212 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Time between CAN PDO Timeout 1. Time between CAN Shutdown Throttle; PDO messages received PDO messages received CAN NMT State set to exceeded the PDO exceeded the PDO Timeout Pre-operational.
Page 213 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Motor characterization Motor 1. Motor characterization Characterization failed during failed during the motor Fault characterization characterization process. Shutdown Motor; Shutdown process. See Monitor Main Contactor; Shutdown Clear: Correct fault; cycle menu>Controller: Motor EM Brake;...
Page 214 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: VCL and OS software VCL/OS Mismatch 1. The VCL software in the Shutdown Motor; Shutdown controller does not match do not match; when KSI Main Contactor; Shutdown the OS software in the cycles a check is made to EM Brake;...
Page 215 Code Programmer Display Possible Cause Set/Clear Conditions Effect of Fault Set: Illegal Model_Number Illegal Mode Number 1. Model_Number variable Shutdown Motor; Shutdown contains illegal value. variable; when KSI cycles, a Main Contactor; Shutdown 2. Software and hardware do check is made to confirm a EM Brake;...
Page 216 Converter The Star Sirius vehicles feature a DC 48V-DC12V/20Amp, key switch input controlled voltage converter. The chart below shows the wire colors, along with the voltages you should expect to see on each. The yellow wire has an in-line 20 amp, automotive style blade fuse (yellow).
Page 217 If you are not receiving voltage here, check and make sure your 20A fuse is not blown. If voltage is still not available, you will need to refer to the Sirius wiring diagram since the orange wire comes from the key switch. You will need to diagnose why the voltage isn’t reaching the converter.
Page 218 Replacing the DC Converter For replacing the DC to DC converter, you will need an impact gun, with a long#3 Phillips bit. You could also use a long #3 screwdriver. To start this replacement, it is best that you remove the seat cushion from the vehicle.
Page 219 Using an impact with a #3 Phillips screwdriver bit, remove the two screws securing the inboard side of the converter. These two screws have round screw holes, so they need to come out completely. On the opposite side of the converter, the holes are slotted so they only need to be loosened and not removed fully.
Page 220 Slide the slots in the converter mounting tabs under the two mounting screws. Install the two remaining screws into the opposite side holes. This will align the holes in the opposite side with the holes below. If you tighten the screws in the slotted holes first, the round holes may not be aligned properly due to the available movement in the slots.
Page 221 The 2 and 2+2 Sirius has a parking brake which is built into the brake pedal assembly, while the longer cars feature a separate parking brake pedal. While both parking brake systems share cables in common, they are not interchangeable and their routing through the carts are vastly different.
Page 222 Proper master cylinder pushrod adjustments are very critical in the hydraulic brake Sirius vehicle. In the diagram below, we’ve taken some parts out of the way, to make it easier to see the linkage components. If the wheel brakes are tight, or locking up, begin your diagnosis here, at the pushrod adjustment.
Page 223 As previously mentioned, the master cylinder mounting plate almost entirely blocks the adjustment points from view. We need to be very specific when making the adjustments, especially since they play heavily into the amp draw of the vehicle while driving. To begin to adjust the rods, we recommend that you remove the nut and jam nut on the pivot bolt shown below.
Page 224 In this diagram, you can see where the brake fluid travels into the master cylinder bore, for the rear brake circuit. There is a cup seal that is meant to keep the rear circuit fluid separate from the front circuit. It is what creates the pressure in the rear circuit when the pedal is pushed down.
Page 225 Always adjust this rod SECOND, after adjusting the master cylinder pushrod. THIS rod adjusts the pedal free-play and pedal feel Adjust this rod FIRST, especially when there is a brake drag issue. To adjust this rod, it should be able to turn freely with your fingers when inserted into the master cylinder piston cup.
Page 226 R&R 4P Brake Pedal Assembly To remove the four passenger brake pedal assembly, you will remove the dash, and remove the bottom floor bolts from the seat pod so that it can be raised up slightly along its front edge. For this, you will need an impact wrench with #1 and #2 Phillips bits, 12mm wrench, 10mm wrench, 5mm Allen socket and ratchet, with a wide...
Page 227 Continue to remove the dash, as outlined in our Dash section. Drill out the 10 pop rivets that secure the dash to the floor. Using the plastic trim removal tool, you will pry up on and remove the center dash cupholder followed by the center...
Page 228 As shown, you will slowly release the floor mat and roll it downward as you go. When you get to the edges of the brake pedal assembly itself, you will need to use the putty knife to cut the adhesive between the floor mat and the pedal assembly. Then carefully pull upward on the mat, working outward from the pedal assembly to meet the already loosened part of the mat.
Page 229 Using a small pair of needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin that connects the brake pedal linkage to the brake pedal. You will replace this cotter pin with a new one, when going back together with the new pedal set.
Page 230 Once the pedal assembly is in place, with the leveling shims underneath and screws in place, we will begin replacing the floor mat. Here is the two passenger floor mat. It only reaches to the front of the pod seat, in the four passenger cart. This is why we’re able to use it in place of the front section of the 4P cart floor mat.
Page 231 For this repair, we are using Wurth brand, Pro Bond Cal Compliant Adhesive in spray form. This spray is able to go on in a wide coverage for quick application. Work outward from the brake pedal assembly opening, spraying adhesive on the floor and on the floor mat, pressing down and smoothing as you go.
Page 232 Apply adhesive just in front of the pod seat, and to the underside of the floor mat. Using some blocks of wood, prop up the front edge of the pod seat. Then, with an assistant’s help, slide the edge of the floor mat under the pod seat first so that it is placed safely underneath, before adhering the rest of the mat to the floor.
Page 233 Replacing the Manual Brake Pedal To replace the manual brake pedal, you will need these tools: 5mm Allen socket, ratchet, extension, small flat head screwdriver, pair of needle nose pliers, pick tools and small Phillips screwdriver. Under the vehicle, you will use the needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin that retains the pin that connects the brake pedal clevis to the manual brake spring holder.
Page 234 With the ratchet, extension, and 5mm socket you will remove the four screws that hold the brake pedal into the vehicle from under the vehicle. Using a knife or small pair of snips, you will cut the zip ties that secure the wiring to the brake pedal switch.
Page 235 Replacing the Master Cylinder For replacing the master cylinder, you will need two 13mm wrenches, a Phillips screwdriver, 10mm wrench and two hose clamps or locking pliers you can use to pinch off the hoses from the brake fluid reservoir. With the 10mm wrench, break loose the brake line fittings, where they go into the master cylinder.
Page 236 Remove the two master cylinder mounting bolts and nuts, using the two 13mm wrenches. The master cylinder push rod is not connected to the front of the master cylinder. It only fits into a depression in the front piston face. So once the two bolts are removed, the master cylinder will be able to drop down.
Page 237 Replacing Hydraulic Brake Shoes The tools needed, for replacing the hydraulic rear brake shoes are a dead blow hammer, needle nose pliers, a flat head screwdriver and an impact wrench with a wheel nut socket. The rear brake drums are equipped with an M8 threaded push-bolt hole, that will let you force the drum away from the axle hub if it is stuck.
Page 238 Using the flat head screwdriver, you will compress and remove the brake shoe holdown springs. Capture and retain these springs along with the holdown pins they connect to. On the rearward brake shoe, you will find the parking brake lever secured with a pin and a cotter pin.
Page 239 Replacing Manual Brake Shoes The brake shoes can be removed with an impact wrench with a wheel nut socket, needle nose pliers, a flat head screwdriver, a small pry bar and a hooked pick tool. Remove the rear wheels, and brake drums. Set the parts aside so they can be reinstalled later.
Page 240 With the holdown springs removed, you will be able to pull the top of either brake shoe outward from the axle. While pulling out, you will slide both shoes downward and out of the shoe landing at the bottom of the backing plate. Both brake shoes will be able to pull away from the backing plate, with the lower spring connecting the two.
Page 241 Replacing the Brake Pads For this repair, you will need a zip tie, 13mm wrench, 4mm Allen socket and ratchet. Remove the upper and lower brake caliper bracket mounting bolts. This will let the brake caliper bracket pivot upward and away from the rotor, for pad replacement.
Page 242 The brake pads will be able to pull out of the caliper, once the slide pins are removed. Remove and inspect the brake pad anti- rattle clip. This is located above the brake pads, and clips into the caliper. This clip keeps tension on the pads and keeps them from making clicking and rattling noises.
Page 243 Replacing the Front Caliper For replacing the brake caliper, you will need a 12mm wrench, 13mm wrench, and an 8mm wrench for opening the bleeder valve. You will also need an impact wrench with a wheel nut socket. Begin the job by removing the wheel.
Page 244 Replacing the Front Rotor For replacing the brake rotor, you will need an impact wrench with a wheel nut socket, zip tie, hammer, flat head screwdriver, small pry bar, ratchet, 6mm Allen socket, Channel Lock style pliers, 13mm wrench, and needle nose pliers. Not shown: Bench Vise Remove the upper and lower brake caliper mounting bracket bolts, using the 13mm wrench.
Page 245 Use the needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin that locks the wheel bearing spindle nut. Use the Channel Lock style pliers to remove the spindle nut. Set the nut aside for reinstallation later. The cotter pin will be replaced with a new one. Remove the outer wheel bearing and set aside for reinstallation later.
Page 246 Replacing the Front Brake Hose To replace the front brake hose, you will need an impact wrench with a lug nut socket, 10mm wrench, 24mm wrench, 19mm wrench and 13mm wrench. Using a 13mm wrench, break loose the banjo bolt that holds the brake hose to the top of the caliper.
Page 247 Replacing the Rear Brake Hose To replace the front brake hose, you will need an impact wrench with a lug nut socket, 10mm wrench, 19mm wrench, 24mm wrench, 17mm wrench. Using the 17mm wrench, break the brake hose fitting loose at the wheel cylinder. You will only break this fitting loose, not remove it completely at this time.
Page 248 You will now pull the brake hose free from its mounting bracket, being sure to capture the retaining nut for reinstallation later. Pull the free end of the brake hose back behind the rear shock absorber. This will allow you to twist and spin the brake hose, unscrewing it from the back of the wheel cylinder.
Page 249 Replacing the 4P Parking Brake To replace the 4 long parking brake pedal assembly, you will need a Phillips manual or powered screwdriver, ratchet, 13mm wrench, needle nose pliers, flat head screwdriver, extension, and 13mm socket. Using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the three Phillips screws that attach the parking brake pedal to the floor of the vehicle.
Page 250 Both of the floor mounting holes, and both of the holes in the pedal assembly are slotted. This is to allow for adjustment, once the pedal is installed. You will now pull upward on the parking brake pedal assembly, to lift it away from the floor. There will be a three wire harness that connects to the parking brake switch.
Page 251 Using a flat head screwdriver, reaching in through the back of the assembly, you will pry the e-clip from around the parking brake cable housing. This will let the cable pull out from the pedal assembly. You can now slip the pedal assembly off of the parking brake cable and away from the floor.
Page 252 Replacing 4P Parking Brake Switch To replace the parking brake switch on the hydraulic brake equipped cart, you will need a manual or powered Phillips screwdriver, and a 12mm wrench. Start the operation by depressing the parking brake. The trim cover will not pass over the parking brake pedal unless the pedal is depressed.
Page 253 Using a 12mm wrench, you will loosen and remove the lower jam nut from the switch. This will let the switch come free from its bracket. Note the order of the wires that are connected to the switch. This order must be the same, when reconnecting the wires. Disconnect the wires from the back of the switch, noting the order in which they were removed.
Page 254 Replacing 4P Parking Brake Cable To complete this operation, you will need a dead blow hammer, 19mm wrench, needle nose pliers, needle nose vise grips, a small pry bar and a flat head screwdriver. To begin, using the 19mm wrench, loosen and remove the brake cable retaining nut where the cable connects to the brake equalizer.
Page 255 Once the rear brake shoe is loose from the backing plate, you will be able to rotate it down and outward, to disconnect the parking brake cable. On the back side of the backing plate, you will find a small horseshoe retaining clip that holds the parking brake cable into the backing plate.
Page 256 Replacing Hydraulic Backing Plate For this operation, you will need an impact gun with wheel nut socket, flat head screwdriver, 13mm wrench, needle nose pliers, 90° snap ring pliers, ratchet, 13mm socket, and slide hammer with hub puller attachment. You will also need a 19mm wrench, 24mm wrench and 12mm wrench, a funnel and DOT 3 brake fluid.
Page 257 With the 19mm wrench, loosen the nut on the front side of the parking brake cable attachment point. You will loosen this nut until it is freed onto the cable itself. This will allow the parking brake cable to slide out of its slot in the frame mounting bracket.
Page 258 Now remove the snap ring that retains the axle shaft into the axle tube. This is done with the 90° snap ring pliers. The ring will remain captive on the axle shaft. Attach a slide hammer, with a hub puller attachment, to the axle hub with some of the wheel lug nuts.
Page 259 The backing plate bolts have a tapered seat, where they go into a matching chamfer in the backing plate. When reattaching the backing plate, be sure the taper is going in the right direction, and that the new backing plate has the matching chamfered holes.
Page 260 Replacing the Manual Backing Plate You will need a slide hammer, with a hub puller adapter, hammer, 13mm wrench, 13mm socket with extension and ratchet, small flat head screwdriver, hooked pick tool, needle nose pliers, impact wrench with wheel nut socket, and 90°...
Page 261 Using the small flat head screwdriver, you will pry the small C-clip out of its groove in the brake cable. This is where the cable comes through the bracket on the backing plate. To remove the cable from the bracket, you will need to pull forward on the spring, while at the same time, pulling back on the brake cable shroud.
Page 262 The Sirius can be equipped with hydraulic or manual brakes, and can be outfitted with a stock or lifted suspension. For the lifted suspension, the spindles and trailing arms are extended.
Page 263 Setting the Ride Height The Sirius vehicle ride height can be altered by adjusting the coilover shock absorbers. You will find a spring seat nut, where the coilover spring resides, with a jam nut below it. This is how to make adjustments to the shocks.
Page 264 To raise the vehicle ride height, you will use the 65mm spanner wrench to turn the spring seat nut clockwise. This will compress the spring more, and raise the vehicle. NOTE: raising the vehicle ride height will stiffen the vehicle’s overall ride quality.
Page 265 Setting the Alignment The Sirius front suspension provides for all the common alignment adjustments that you’d expect from a typical automotive front end. Although there are many similarities, the way the adjustments are made, will be slightly different. The main thing to note, is that the suspension adjustment move opposite from what you would normally assume.
Page 266 Conversely, turning the two nuts counter clockwise will adjust the caster more positive. To adjust camber, you will need to move both upper control arm mounting points in or out, depending on the desired effect. To make the camber more negative, (top of the wheel moving inward) turn all the four adjustment nuts clockwise.
Page 267 To make the camber more positive (top of the wheel moving outward) turn all four of the adjustment nuts counter clockwise. Specification Unloaded State Loaded State Camber 0.5-1° 20-30mm Toe-in 5-8mm Centerline of wheels 930mm +/- 10mm (at ground contact point) Coilover Shock 20-30mm...
Page 268 Replacing the Trailing Arms To replace the trailing arms, you will need these tools: • 3/8” Impact gun • 19mm wrench • 18mm wrench • 13mm wrench • 3/8” ratchet • 3/8” 19mm deep socket • 3/8” 13mm shallow socket •...
Page 269 Use either the jack or a dead man to support the rear end. Using a ratchet and 14mm deep socket, break loose the 4 u-bolt nuts. Once they are broken loose, you can then use the impact gun to remove the nuts completely. Set the u-bolts aside, because they will need to be replaced.
Page 270 If your bolt does not have a shoulder on it, refer to TSB #TE11027.00 for replacement information. These bolts should be replaced with the shoulder type bolt. Install the new trailing arm, with the new bushings and the new should bolt into the frame mount, installing the nut with fingers only.
Page 271 Replacing the Front Shocks To replace the front shock absorber assemblies, you will need a pry bar, a center punch, dead blow hammer, 3/8” impact gun or a 1/4” impact gun with a 1/4” to 3/8” adapter, 3/8” ratchet with 3/8” 16mm deep socket, and a 14mm wrench. Using the 3/8”...
Page 272 To install the new shock, you will maneuver it into place, starting with the top bracket. Install the top bolt, with the nut on the back side. To get the bolt to start into the bottom eye, you will need to pry between the lower control arm and the eye of the shock.
Page 273 Replacing the Rear Shocks For replacing the rear shocks, you will need a 14mm and 16mm wrench, and a ratchet with 16mm socket. You will remove the lower shock mounting bolt with the 14mm wrench on the nut, and 16mm wrench on the bolt. The upper shock mounting bolt will require the ratchet and 16mm socket, due to the available clearance.
Page 274 Replacing the Upper Control Arms The tools you will need, are a hammer, pair of needle nose pliers, 16mm wrench and 16mm socket with a ratchet, a 19mm wrench and an impact wrench with a 19mm socket. The needle nose can be substituted with a pair of diagonal cutters, for removing the cotter pins from the ball joint castle nuts.
Page 275 Use the 16mm wrench and 16mm socket with ratchet to remove the upper control arm bolts where they attach to the upper control arm mounts. Removing these bolts will leave the upper control arm free for removal from the vehicle. Reassembly is the reverse of removal.
Page 276 Replacing the Lower Control Arms You will need an impact wrench with a 13mm wrench, 19mm socket, a hammer, a pair of channel lock style pliers, a pair of needle nose pliers or diagonal cutters, a 16mm wrench, 16mm socket, ratchet, 19mm wrench.
Page 277 Using a hammer, tap on the lower spindle connection point, where the lower ball joint connects. This will dislodge the lower ball joint in its bore. Pulling upward on the spindle assembly, you will be able to free the lower ball joint from the spindle. Once free, you can position the spindle to the side of the lower ball joint, to proceed with the rest of the removal.
Page 278 To remove the front lower control arm mounting bolt, use the 16mm wrench and 16mm socket with ratchet. This bolt is readily accessible, and can be removed without clearance issues. To access the rear lower control arm mounting bolt, you will need to lower the steering rack from the vehicle.
Page 279 You will lower the steering rack down low enough to let the lower control arm mounting bolt to pass over the top of it, when the bolt comes out. As shown, the bolt has a clear path to exit the frame mount, without hitting the steering rack.
Page 280 Replacing the Steering Wheel To replace the steering wheel adapter, you will need to have a torque wrench with a ratchet, 3” extension and 24mm socket. These are shown in 1/2” drive but you can use 3/8” drive tools also. To replace only the steering wheel, you will need a 3/8”...
Page 281 Using the 4mm Allen socket and ratchet, remove the flat head Allen bolts that secure the steering wheel to the adapter. If you are replacing the adapter, this will separate the steering wheel from the adapter. If you are replacing the steering wheel only, you do not need to remove the large center nut.
Page 282 Replacing the Steering Column To replace the steering column, you will need an impact wrench, with 16mm socket, 13mm wrench, Phillips screwdriver, and ratchet. To begin, you will remove the steering wheel, and refer to the section for replacing the combination switch.
Page 283 Moving under the vehicle, use the 13mm wrench to remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate shaft collar. Pull downward on the collar, to release it from the bottom end of the steering column shaft. Pull upward on the lower rubber trim boot that conceals the steering column to...
Page 284 Replacing the Intermediate Shaft To replace the intermediate shaft, you will need a 13mm wrench, a flat head screwdriver and a pry bar. It may also be helpful to have a hammer. Begin by aligning the front wheels so they are pointing straight forward.
Page 285 With a pry bar, pry the upper collar off of the bottom of the steering column shaft. Try to keep the steering column from turning while removing this collar. You can now pry upward on the lower intermediate shaft joint, releasing it from the steering rack input shaft.
Page 286 When reinstalling the pinch collars, the pinch bolt must align with this machined groove in each shaft. This ensures the collar is the proper distance onto the shaft, as well as locking the collar from coming detached from the shaft. In each of the collars, you can visually see if the shaft groove is aligned with the pinch bolt hole.
Page 287 Replacing the Tie Rod End For this repair, you will need a jack stand, hammer, channel lock style pliers, or diagonal cutters, and a 19mm wrench. With the vehicle supported off the ground, place the jack stand under the lower control arm on the same side as the tie rod end that needs to be replaced.
Page 288 Use the 19mm wrench to remove the tie rod end castle nut. Leave the nut with a few threads remaining before coming off the tie rod end. Use the hammer to tap on the spindle. This will dislodge the tie rod end. The tie rod tapered shaft may pop loose, without looking like it has released.
Page 289 Replacing the Steering Rack For replacing the steering rack and pinion, you will need a hammer, pry bar, ratchet with 16mm socket, 16mm wrench, 13mm wrench, flat head screwdriver, 19mm wrench and channel lock style pliers. It is helpful to have a punch or center punch to align the steering rack holes to the frame mounting holes.
Page 290 With the 13mm wrench, loosen and remove the intermediate shaft pinch bolt. Use the pry bar to pry upward on the pinch clamp. You are now ready to unbolt the steering rack from its frame mount. With the 16mm wrench and 16mm socket and ratchet, you will remove the 3 steering rack mounting bolts where they connect the rack to the frame.
Page 291 With the wheels pointed straight forward, and the intermediate shaft in the straight forward orientation, set the new steering rack with the outer tie rod ends equidistant from the center of the steering rack. Insert one tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut to keep the tapered shaft from falling out while you continue to work.
Page 292 Replacing the Front Spindle To remove the spindle, you will need a pair of channel lock style pliers, a flat head screwdriver, a hammer, a 19mm wrench, a pair of needle nose pliers or diagonal cutters, and some cotter pins. You will replace all cotter pins with new ones during reassembly.
Page 293 Pulling on the wheel hub will remove it from the spindle. Set the hub aside to be reinstalled later. Use the needle nose pliers or diagonal cutters to remove the cotter pins from the upper and lower ball joint castle nuts. A 19mm wrench will loosen and remove one ball joint nut at a time.
Page 294 Using the needle nose pliers or diagonal cutters, you will remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end castle nut. Be sure to capture and keep the flat washer under all ball joint castle nuts, along with the outer tie rod end castle nut. These will all need to be reinstalled during reassembly.
Page 295 Replacing the Wheel Bearings For removing the wheel bearings, you will need wheel bearing grease, a bearing packer, a hammer, dead blow hammer, flat head screwdriver, a pair of needle nose pliers or diagonal cutters, and a pair of channel lock style pliers. Use the flat head screwdriver and hammer to knock loose the wheel bearing dust cap.
Page 296 You can now pull on the wheel hub to slide it off the spindle. Use a clean shop rag to clean all the wheel bearing grease from the spindle. Using the flat head screwdriver, you will remove the grease seal from the rear of the wheel hub. This will allow the inner wheel bearing to be removed.
Page 297 Install the new inner wheel bearing into the hub, followed by a new wheel hub grease seal. Seat the seal into its bore, using a dead blow hammer. Install the wheel hub onto the spindle, followed with a new outer wheel bearing.
Page 298 Drivetrain The Sirius drivetrain uses a differential to transmit the motor’s output to two axles. The axles are not equal length, due to the position of the motor in the vehicle. But the axles do remove and install the same way.
Page 299 Replacing the 2P Throttle Pedal For replacing the two passenger throttle pedal, you will need a ratchet, extension, flat head screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, pair of small cutters, and a 4mm Allen socket. You will also need some small pick tools, and a small Phillips screwdriver. To begin, you will use the small pick tools to pick out...
Page 300 From the top, you will be able to use a flat head screwdriver to pry upward on the trim surround. You may need an assistant to pry on the tabs from below, to release the trim. You will use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining screws from the throttle sensor. Remove the sensor screws and let the sensor hang down by its harness.
Page 301 Replacing the Axle For removing the rear axle, you will need an impact with a wheel nut socket, slide hammer with a hub puller adapter, hammer, 13mm wrench, 13mm socket, extension and ratchet, needle nose pliers, 90° snap ring pliers, a flat head screwdriver and a small hooked pick. A lot of these tools will be used for removing the rear brake shoes.
Page 302 Replacing a Rear Wheel Lug Stud To replace the rear lug stud, you will need a hammer, pair of needle nose pliers, some large flat washers that fit around the lug stud and its unthreaded shoulder, a ratchet with a 19mm socket, and a non-acorn style lug nut.
Page 303 Install the lug nut so that the flat side faces the washers. Use the 19mm socket and ratchet to pull the lug stud through the flange and washers until the stud bottoms out against the back of the axle flange. Once this is complete, you will remove the lug nut and washers.
Page 304 Replacing the Differential The tools needed to replace the differential are: • Needle nose pliers • Slide hammer with axle puller adapter • Dead blow hammer • 3/8” Impact gun or 1/4” impact with 3/8” adapter • 13mm 3/8” drive deep socket •...
Page 305 Using the 90° snap ring pliers, set to compress the spring, remove the snap ring from it’s groove where the axle goes into the axle tube. This will allow the axle to be removed. Attach the slide hammer with the axle puller adapter, to the lug studs and temporarily install 3 lug nuts.
Page 306 Now attach a ratcheting strap to the pallet or table you are working on. Tighten the strap so that the rear end isn’t able to rotate, while you are removing the differential bolts. At this point, you will use either a 3/8” breaker bar, or a cheater pipe with the 3/8”...
Page 307 Replacing the Rear End Assembly Rear end replacement will require a 4mm Allen socket, 14mm deep socket, 14mm wrench, 16mm wrench, small flat head screwdriver, needle nose pliers, high temp grease and an imact wrench with wheel nut socket. Disconnect the battery before beginning this repair! If you are using an overhead vehicle lift, you will need to have a dead man stand, for safety.
Page 308 Remove the cotter pins from the brake cable lever pins. Discard these cotter pins. They will be replaced upon reassembly. Disconnect both brake cables from their brackets on the backs of the backing plates. Lower the rear end assembly down slowly, while observing the tension on the wiring above it.
Page 309 Using a ratchet with 4mm Allen socket, remove the 5 motor mounting bolts that hold the motor to the rear end assembly. Carefully grasping the motor, you will slide it off the rear end input shaft. Bring the motor down and out of the vehicle. Set the motor aside for reinstallation later.
Page 310 Apply a small dab of high temp grease to the input shaft splines on the rear end assembly. Apply a small dab of high temp grease to the splines of the motor shaft also. Lift the rear end assembly onto the dead man stand, and position the trailing arms under the rear end weldment pads.
Page 311 Body Electrical The Sirius electrical system is dual sided, consisting of the battery voltage side, and an accessory side that runs on 12V. There is a converter that reduces the full battery voltage, so it can be used by the accessories.
Page 312 Dash Lights The Sirius vehicle dash has two interior dash lights, one on either side. These lights feature a power button switch in the middle, under the red power symbol. These light are mounted using adhesive backing, and are thereby relatively easy to replace.
Page 313 You will need this cord or wire in order to fish the new ribbon cable through the small dash holes. Once your wires are run through the dash, you will use the self- adhesive backing to attach the new light to it’s dash location. www.starev.com...
Page 314 Testing the Combination Switch With the Sirius wiring diagram, you will be provided with all the wire colors and connections to all the components. But here, we’ll take a closer look at the combination switch and it’s wiring. We’ve pinned out all the connections, with how you should have continuity in each selection of the switch.
Page 315 For the left turn signal you will have continuity between these two terminals. This will be between the Green/Purple wire and Green wire. For this test, you will need to push the stalk down, so that it clicks into position. For the right turn signal you will have continuity between these two terminals.
Page 316 Check power and ground to that bulb, and resistance inoperative through the bulb. Visual inspection alone may not show the problem. Headlights OR Highbeams Check for continuity through the affected switch, inoperative using the continuity diagram on page 80 (Testing Sirius Combination Switch). 316 | www.starev.com...
Page 317 Turn Signal Testing Concern Check Turn signals inoperative Check power and ground since they are common to both. Check fuses if there is no power at the switches. Turn signal mirror inoperative Check for proper ground to affected mirror and flash signal to mirror.
Page 318 Turn Signals Inoperative When diagnosing turn signal issues on the Sirius vehicle, especially ones that have a glass, DOT windshield you may find an issue where one or both of the side mirror turn signals are inoperative. They may work intermittently when the wires are wiggled around.
Page 319 Diagnose Sirius Brake Lights The Sirius brake light switch gets its power from the same fuse as the flasher/hazard lights. This fuse is the red 10 amp fuse. So to begin, you can verify if the flasher and hazard lights operate. Since they share the fuse with the brake lights, the brake light switch should have power available if the flasher/hazard lights are working.
Page 320 12V should now be available, when mea- sured across the two middle terminals. If in any of these tests, you do not see 12V, you will need to check and see if the power is the issue, or the ground is the issue. To test a ground circuit, connect your red voltmeter lead to your battery main positive.
Page 321 Testing 4P Parking Brake Switch There should be continuity between these terminals when released. There should be continuity between these terminals when depressed. To test a switch out of the vehicle, you will find the continuity between the terminals as shown above.
Page 322 Brake Lights Stay On There are two places that have been found to cause the brake lights to be on constantly. The first one is the two pin connector being plugged in, along the rear upper frame cross member. There are two unplugged, white 2-pin connectors at this frame cross member.
Page 323 Cruise Control New in 2024, the Sirius is available with cruise control. This system is designed to be set above or equal to 8mph, and is only available with Curtis controllers. The system has an additional brake switch for disengaging the system when driving.
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Page 325 In normal operation, the Cruise ON/OFF switch will remain depressed while the system is in use. The Cruise Set button is only a momentary switch, and does not stay pressed in. The brake pedal has been fitted with an additional brake switch that breaks the cruise signal to the controller.
Page 326 Replacing Turn Signal Flasher To replace the turn signal flasher unit, you will need to use an 8mm socket or nut driver to remove the retaining screw. The same screw that holds the flasher is the same one that holds the horn. They are located right behind and above the right front wheel.
Page 327 Once the flasher is replaced, it will look like this, ready for securing to the frame member. Using the securing screw, position the flasher module on top of the horn tab and secure both to the frame member with the self-tapping screw.
Page 328 Replacing the Turn Signal Mirror For replacing the side turn signal mirror, you will need a wire cutter, wire stripper, wire terminal crimper, small pair of snips, Phillips screwdriver, 10mm wrench, and 2 pin connector that is supplied with the replacement mirror.
Page 329 The mirror will be free from the roof support, and the wiring will be free, with the white connector still attached to the end. Do not pull the wiring out yet. You will need to cut the white connector from the end of the wiring. This is to allow the wiring to pass through the roof support.
Page 330 Replacing the Combination Switch When replacing the combination switch, you will need either a powered or manual Phillips screwdriver, a pair of small snips, a torque wrench a ratchet with extension and a 24mm socket. You will also need a plastic trim removal tool to remove the center dash cupholder.
Page 331 This is the connector for the combination switch. It is the largest connector in the center dash compartment. Using the small snips, cut all the zip ties that hold the wiring harnesses together. You will be able to replace these ties once you get done replacing the switch.
Page 332 The wiring harness will pull downward, above where the steering column comes through the firewall. You will need to push from the dash area, while pulling down from the steering column base area at the same time. You may need to pull the excess wiring harness out of your way as you work.
Page 333 The wiring harness should be under the vehicle now, pulled down from inside the center dash area. Now you can work the wiring harness up through the floor, until it is inside the vehicle. Once you have all the wiring inside the vehicle, you will need to work it through the rubber boot that goes around the steering column tube.
Page 334 Set the lower column trim cover aside. You will see four Phillips screws that hold the switch to the steering column. Removing these four screws will release the upper half of the steering column trim cover from the steering column. After the screws are removed, you will be able to lay the top half of the steering column trim housing over onto the center dash so it is out of the way.
Page 335 Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws from the combination switch. You will now be able to remove the combination switch from the vehicle. You will reverse these steps to install the new switch. BE SURE that the turn signal cancel pins, on the bottom of the steering wheel adapter are oriented at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions...
Page 336 Replacing the Key Switch To replace the key switch, you will need either a powered or manual Phillips screwdriver. Begin by unscrewing the bezel trim around the key switch. You will see a reddish shim piece that is behind this bezel trim. Be sure to capture and keep this shim.
Page 337 When you have the retaining nut, and shim removed, the key switch body will be able to come out of the lower trim cover. Use the connector release tab on the white 4-pin connector to release the two sections of the connector. You can now pull the key switch from the lower cover completely.
Page 338 Replacing the Horn When replacing the horn, you will find it behind and above the right front wheel. It is mounted to the frame member, under the tab for the flasher relay. Using an 8mm socket or nut driver, remove the self-tapping screw that holds the flasher relay and horn to the frame member.
Page 339 Replacing the Reverse Beeper Using a plastic trim removal tool, pry up around the center dash cupholder. Using this tool, will help to prevent cracking in the cupholder finish. After the cupholder is removed, you will locate the round black backup beeper.
Page 340 You are now able to press down on the white plastic locking tab so the two sections can disconnect. Replacement is simply a matter of installing the new beeper, and reconnecting the wiring connector. Using a new zip tie, connect the beeper to the wiring harness and trim off the excess zip tie material with the small snips.
Page 341 Replacing the 12V Outlet Using a plastic trim removal tool, pry up around the center dash cupholder. Using this tool, will help to prevent cracking in the cupholder finish. The 12V accessory outlet is located right under the center dash cupholder between the forward reverse switch and the high low switch.
Page 342 Disconnect the two wires from the back of the outlet, with the key turned off. In this closeup photo, you will see the two plastic tabs. Reach into the outlet with a small screwdriver or pick tool and press outward on the tabs, while pushing forward on the outlet from its back.
Page 343 Replacing the High Low Switch Using a plastic trim removal tool, pry up around the center dash cupholder. Using this tool, will help to prevent cracking in the cupholder finish. The High Low switch is located on the right side of the dash, to the right of the 12V accessory outlet.
Page 344 You will find a small black plastic push lock tab at the top and the bottom of the switch. Press down on these tabs to release the locking feature. Once you get one of the top or bottom edges to release, you will be able to assist by pulling from the front of the switch.
Page 345 Replacing the Fwd/Rev Switch Using a plastic trim removal tool, pry up around the center dash cupholder. Using this tool, will help to prevent cracking in the cupholder finish. The forward/reverse switch is located on the left side of the dash, to the left of the 12V accessory outlet.
Page 346 You will find a small black plastic push lock tab at the top and the bottom of the switch. Press down on these tabs to release the locking feature. Once you get one of the top or bottom edges to release, you will be able to assist by pulling from the front of the switch.
Page 347 Replacing the USB Charging Port Using a plastic trim removal tool, pry up around the center dash cupholder. Using this tool, will help to prevent cracking in the cupholder finish. The USB charging port is located in the center of the dash, below the 12V accessory outlet.
Page 348 Once you have access to the circuit board, you will see there are three very small Phillips screws that attach it to the dash. Using a small Phillips screwdriver, you will remove these three screws to allow the circuit board to release from the dash.
Page 349 Replacing the Hood Release Switch Using a plastic trim removal tool, pry up around the center dash cupholder. Using this tool, will help to prevent cracking in the cupholder finish. The hood release switch button is located on the drivers side of the center dash, right beside the steering column.
Page 350 Disconnect the wires from the switch. This will allow you to loosen the retaining nut from the back of the switch button. Set the retaining nut aside until you have installed the new switch. Insert the new switch into the dash, and attach the retaining nut. Tighten the nut using your fingers only.
Page 351 Replacing the Hazard Light Switch To replace the hazard switch, you will need a Phillips screwdriver. It can be a manual or powered version. Begin by removing the four Phillips screws from the lower steering wheel cover. This will let the lower cover come down with the key switch and hazard switch in it together.
Page 352 Locate and squeeze the retaining tabs on the sides of the switch. This will let the switch come out of the lower cover. To replace, press the switch into the hole in the lower cover. The tabs will click into place, to hold the switch in its place.
Page 353 Replacing the Wiring Harnesses To replace the wiring harnesses, you will need an impact wrench with a Phillips screwdriver bit, Phillips screwdriver, small pair of snips, flat head screwdriver, plastic trim pry bar, 10mm wrench, small flat head screwdriver, a 16mm socket, 8mm socket or nut driver, an extension and a ratchet.
Page 354 There may be times when you will need to cut and remove the hot glue from the connectors. This hot glue is to keep the release tabs from being depressed and letting the connectors come undone. Clip the hot glue and pull it out from under the release tabs. Disconnect all the connectors inside the center of the dash.
Page 355 Also, cut the zip ties that hold the harness that leads to the hood latch actuator. Work all the wiring through the frame members, until it’s all near the foot pedal area, below the cart. Using the Phillips screwdriver or bit, remove the screws for the motor controller cover.
Page 356 Cut all the zip ties along the back of the frame member, and along the frame rail beside the charger and converter. With the small flat head screwdriver, you will depress the small detent that retains the fuse block into its bracket. With a Phillips screwdriver, and 10mm wrench, you will remove the screws and nuts that hold the...
Page 357 Reaching through the seatbelt opening, above the battery, disconnect the rear lighting assemblies. With a 16mm wrench and socket with ratchet, remove the bolts that attach the battery tray to the vehicle. You will find two accessible through the seatbelt opening, and two at the front of the battery tray floor.
Page 358 Basic Voltmeter Testing To be a well rounded golf cart technician, you must become proficient in the use of a voltmeter. There is no better diagnostic tool that you can learn to use. Along with the meter itself, you need to have a selection of jumper wires, of different lengths.
Page 359 Voltage Drop Testing Almost all tests that are performed with a voltmeter should be done with the power turned off for the circuit being tested. This is because the movement of power through the meter will cause the fuse to blow in most meters. This can limit the testing that you can do, to ones that can be done with a dead circuit.
Page 360 Now as with anything electrical, there can be all kinds of formulas that can come into play. But we need to keep things simple! Your time is extremely valuable, and you can’t waste any of it. So let’s think of resistance in a circuit. A resistor slows down the flow of electricity. In doing this, it changes the energy to heat.
Page 361 Continuity Testing One skill that is extremely important to have, is knowing how to test for continuity. Continuity gives you the ability to quickly test the integrity of a wire, or circuit. With a continuity test, you can rule out complete sections of an electrical path, allowing you to focus your efforts on other components.
Page 362 For ease of testing, many meters have an audible function for measuring continuity. This allows you to perform the test, without having to visually look at the display each time. You will be able to hear an audible tone, whenever there is good continuity. In the image shown, you will see the audible tone symbol on the display.
Page 363 To test the wiring for an encoder, you will simply prepare your meter for measuring resistance, verify your leads are in the proper ports on the meter, and turn on the audible feature if your meter is equipped with one. Then, disconnect both ends of the wiring to be tested. In this example, you would unplug the encoder itself, and the connector from the controller.
Page 364 Resistance Testing When testing for resistance, you are essentially doing the same test as continuity. The difference is that a continuity test is more like a pass/fail kind of test, whereas resistance is a more precise numerical value of the resistance measurement. Continuity just means that voltage can get through somehow.
Page 365 Amperage Testing With amperage testing, it is critical that you keep several points in mind. 1. The circuit must be ON. 2. You must have some idea of the expected amperage you expect to encounter in the circuit. 3. You must change the meter leads to the ports that are rated for the expected amperage.
Page 366 Torque Specifications Fastener Description Torque Spec Tolerance Steering Wheel Socket Head Flat 35.4in-lbs (4N.m) ±4.5in-lbs (±0.5N.m) Screw M5x16 Center Hex Nut 22.127ft-lbs (30N.m) ±2.21ft-lbs (±3N.m) M16x1.5 Front Roof Supports Hex Head Bolt 37ft-lbs (50N.m) ±4ft-lbs (±5N.m) to Frame M10x30 Roof Support to Halo Socket head flat 12ft-lbs (16N.m) ±3ft-lbs (±4N.m)
Page 367 Fastener Description Torque Spec Tolerance Upper shock Hex bolts M10x55 33ft-lbs (45N.m) ±2.21ft-lbs (±3N.m) mounting bolts Lower shock Hex bolts M10x55 33ft-lbs (45N.m) ±2.21ft-lbs (±3N.m) mounting bolts Trailing arm front Hex bolts M13x89 59ft-lbs (80N.m) ±4ft-lbs (±5N.m) mounting bolts U-bolts Hex flange face lock 37ft-lbs (50N.m) ±4ft-lbs (±5N.m)
Page 368 Glossary Amp Draw-The amount of that is inserted through a Plotting-Charting points along electrical force withdrawn castle nut, allowing the nut from the battery over time, to to be locked in place. a graph over a period of perform work. time.
Page 369 Thermistor Resistance Table ................92 Throttle Sensor Testing Chart .................93 Lester Summit II Charger Profiles Table ............107 Charger LED Chart ..................134 Sirius SOC Display Chart ................164 Lithium Range Testing and Amps Table ............167 Lead Acid Date Chart ...................170 MCX Fault List ....................178 HPD/Sequencing Fault Inputs Table ............195...
Page 370 Index Control Arm 258, 261-2, 362, 364 144-5, 153, 155-6, 160-3, App 99,101-108, 120, 268, 270-5, 283, 363 Handheld Programmer 167, 218, 221, 363-5 126, 128, 130-1, 138-149, Controller 4,12-3, 38-40, 83, 87-8, 91, 163, 176-7, Linkage 218-20, 225 152, 154-5, 161 77, 80-4, 87-91, 124, 163, 181, 187-8, 190, 197, 221 Lug Nuts 254, 297, 301,...
Page 371 Index 273-4, 283-5, 288- Regen 170, 200-1 93, 363 Undervoltage 174, 200-1, Reluctor 82, 197 Steering 4, 8, 10, 16, 28, Resistance 78-9, 90, 124, 31-2, 114, 124, 160, USB 15, 149, 151, 171, 200-1, 205, 312, 162, 175, 226-7, 188-9, 307, 343 354-60, 364-5 258, 274-7, 278-81,...