Rear Shock Removal/Replacement Rear Triangle Removal Swing Link Removal Leaf Spring Module Removal Pivot Bearing Replacement Main Pivot Bearing Replacement Rocker Link Bearing Replacement Frame Reassembly Rocker Link Reinstallation Leaf Spring Module Reinstallation Rear Triangle Reinstallation Mayhem 140 Frame Parts Reference...
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Spot for a referral to a qualified bicycle technician in your area. This guide covers the details specific to tuning your Spot suspension frame. It does not address complete bicycle assembly, fitting, inspection, maintenance, or riding techniques. Please refer to the Spot Owner’s Manual for further details.
You can fine tune the shock pressure slightly to match your riding style and preferences– less air will lower ride height and feel softer, more air will raise ride height and feel firmer. Spot does not recommend using air pressure values less Recommended Air Pressure for Setting than 75% of riding weight as the air spring may not offer adequate support to resist hard bottom outs.
Turn your rebound dial to the closed position (full clockwise) until it stops. Then back it out (counter- clockwise) to the number of clicks shown in the table below. These values are Spot’s recommended starting positions. Some riders may find faster or slower rebound settings than these recommendations better suit their riding style or terrain.
Threshold Adjustment The threshold adjustment adds very heavy compression damping– almost a full lockout. This is useful for bikes that pedal poorly and bob up and down under power. Spot suspension bikes have been carefully engineered to render this shock function unnecessary.
Setting Fork Pressure Sag should be set to 15 – 20% of total fork travel To achieve the best performance from your suspension fork, adjust the air pressure to attain your proper sag setting. Sag is the amount your suspension compresses under your weight and riding gear. Sag range should be set to 15–20% of total fork travel. Watch the sag setup video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYjoTM8asKA Unscrew the air cap on top of the left fork leg counter-clockwise to expose the Schrader valve.
Setting Fork Rebound Damping Rebound damping controls how fast the fork extends after compressing The rebound adjustment is dependent on the air pressure setting. For example, higher air pressures require more rebound damping. The rebound damping is controlled by the red knob on the bottom of the right side fork leg. Use your air pressure to find your rebound setting.
5 fine tuning settings. Setting –2 will have a more plush feel and setting +2 will have a firmer feel. Spot recommends beginning with the high speed compression adjuster set High Speed wide open or in position –2 (counter-clockwise) from fully closed (clockwise).
Spot recommends beginning with the compression adjustment set wide open (counter-clockwise) from fully closed (clockwise). Add more compression damping by turning clockwise one click at a time. If the fork becomes too firm, back the compression damping off to retain comfort.
Settings that work well for an aggressive rider in rough terrain will produce a harsh ride for a smoother rider on moderate terrain. Here are some guidelines to make sure you’re getting the best possible ride quality out of your Spot suspension bike: •...
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This will increase control and ride comfort by making the suspension travel easier to access. Your Spot bike is delivered with our recommended size and quantity of volume spacers in the fork and rear shock. Additional volume spacers can be sourced online or from your local bike shop.
Mayhem 140 Frame Component Compatibility Your Mayhem 140 frame was designed to work with the following components. Other components may be compatible, but fitment is not guaranteed. For questions regarding component compatibility of parts not listed below please contact Spot.
Internal Cable Routing IMPORTANT: Install your internal cable housing/hydraulic line before installing the bottom bracket assembly. Bikes using wireless seatposts can skip steps 1-3. Bikes using wireless shifting can skip steps 13-15. 1. Make sure your seatpost collar is installed on the frame. The seatpost cable housing is easiest to install by feeding from the seat tube to the head tube.
4. Remove the cable clamping parts at the head tube using a 2.5mm hex tool. 5. Remove the cable clamping parts below the leaf spring using a 3mm hex tool.
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6. Installation of the rear brake hydraulic line and shift cable (if used) is made much easier by raising the rear triangle to gain access. To do this, simply remove the shock’s rear pin and offset spacer using a T30 Torx tool. 7.
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Brake Hose Routing 8. If your rear brake has the hose connected to the lever assembly, cut the hose close to the lever. 9. Insert the hose into the port on the inside of the non-drive side chainstay ahead of the brake mount.
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Route the brake hose into the port on the downtube and push it toward the head tube. 12. Once the hose reaches the head tube, pull the end out of the upper headset bore with enough length to reach the handlebar, plus some 150-200mm extra.
13. If using a cable actuated rear derailleur, use a sharp hobby knife to slice around the cable port knockout cover in the chainstay protector to reveal the port beneath. 14. Routing the rear derailleur cable housing mirrors the procedure for routing the brake hose. Insert the cable into the port near the dropout, route through the main pivot knuckle and into the downtube.
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15. As with the seatpost cable housing and brake hose, route the derailleur cable housing through the upper headset bore with plenty of extra length. 16. To prevent rattling noise from the cables, install the supplied cable insulator tube by sliding it over the hose/housings into the down tube.
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17. Route the seatpost cable out of the frame through the port on the drive side of the head tube as shown. 18. Route the brake hose and shifter cable through the ports on the non drive side of the head tube as shown.
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19. Before clamping the cables to the frame, install your rear derailleur, dropper seatpost, and your rear brake caliper and any required adapter per the brake manufacturer’s specification. Set your hose and cable housing lengths as required by each component. The brake caliper mount slides into the frame at the rear axle bore.
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20. Identify the head tube cable clamp ports required for your configuration: Drive side: Non-drive side: One cable Brake only (wireless (seatpost): shifting): No cable (wireless Brake and rear seatpost): derailleur cable: 21. Install the head tube cable clamp parts using a 2.5mm hex tool. Torque 4.5Nm (40in-lb).
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22. Identify the lower cable clamp ports required for your configuration: Drive side: Non-drive side: No cable (wireless shifting): One cable (rear derailleur): 23. Install the lower cable clamp parts using a 3mm hex tool. Torque 4.5Nm (40in-lb).
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24. Carefully swing the rear triangle downward, back to its top-out position. Doing this after clamping the cables at the BB ensures adequate length in the exposed cables between the front and rear triangles to accommodate suspension motion. 25. Re-install the shock rear pin, spacer, and screw. Note the spacer orientation, it will only fit one direction due to the tapered diameter pin.
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The insulator tube can be removed through the upper headset opening with a 90° dental pick, an automotive-style extended reach pliers, modified spoke, etc. Contact Spot to request a new insulator tube if required.
Bottom Bracket Installation IMPORTANT: If using an internal dropper seatpost cable, install the seatpost cable before installing the bottom bracket assembly. 1. Refer to the bottom bracket manufacturer’s requirements for cup position and take care to observe the left/right orientation of each cup. 2.
Maintenance Tools Required For Rear Triangle Removal/Replacement: • Hex Wrenches/Bits: 8mm • Torx Wrench/Bits: T30 • Torque wrench with 4Nm (36in-lb) to 14Nm (120in-lb) range: 8mm bit, T30 bit • Isopropyl or denatured alcohol—90% or higher concentration • Medium strength (blue) thread locking compound, such as Loctite 243 (blue) Tools Required For Pivot Bearing Replacement: (In addition to the tools listed above) •...
The Living Link leaf spring is to be treated as integral to the main pivot assembly. Do not attempt to modify the leaf spring! Doing so is likely to damage the leaf spring, hardware, and possibly the rear triangle itself. Any questions or concerns regarding the leaf spring should be directed to Spot: www.spotbikes.com bikeservice@spotbikes.com 303-278-3955 It is recommended to periodically check the torque on the 8 leaf spring mounting fasteners.
Rear Derailleur Hanger Removal/Replacement 1. Remove the rear wheel and the rear derailleur from the frame. It should not be necessary to remove the chain or cable/housing from the derailleur: 2. The derailleur hanger is removed using a 8mm hex tool on the outboard cap. Turn the cap clockwise to unscrew, then remove the axle sleeve and hanger from the inboard side.
Shock Removal/Replacement 1. Remove the forward shock pin using a T30 torx tool. 2. Remove the rear shock pin screw, pin, and offset spacer using a T30 torx tool and remove the shock from the frame. Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque: 11Nm (97in-lb) with medium thread locker.
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Rear Triangle Removal 1. Remove the cable clamp parts from the front triangle using a 2.5 and 3mm hex tool at the head tube and bottom bracket area respectively. 2. Following the manufacturers’ recommendations, sever the rear brake hose and disconnect the rear derailleur cable if equipped.
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6. Remove the pivot caps from the two rear triangle pivots using a T30 torx tool. 7. Remove the rear triangle pivot axles using an 8mm hex tool. Tip: For stubborn, tight axles that are hard to remove, thread any 6mm screw of sufficient length into the head of the axle.
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8. The rear triangle can now be pulled free of the frame assembly. Keep a hand underneath the pivot areas to catch the pivot washers and o-rings.
Bearing Replacement—Swing Link Removal 1. Remove the rear shock pin, screw, and offset spacer from the shock using a T30 torx tool. 2. Remove the pivot cap from the rear triangle upper pivot using a T30 torx tool.
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3. Remove the rear triangle upper pivot axle using an 8mm hex tool. Tip: For stubborn, tight axles that are hard to remove, thread any 6mm screw of sufficient length into the head of the axle. Grab the head of the screw tightly with a vise grip to apply more removal force. 4.
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5. The link pivot at the seat tube uses a self-extracting design to unseat the axle cones from the front triangle. Insert a T30 torx tool through the 6mm hex recess in the cap on the non-drive side to access the preload screw inside. Loosen the preload screw until one side of the pivot system comes free of the frame.
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7. Using a 6mm hex tool, turn the remaining pivot cap assembly clockwise. This tightening action will draw the axle cone out and break the taper fit with the front triangle. 8. Pull the loosened assembly and o-ring free of the frame.
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9. Pull the swing link assembly free of the frame. Keep a hand underneath to catch the o-rings and pivot spacers.
Leaf Spring Module Removal 1. Remove the cable clamp parts from the front triangle using a 2.5 and 3mm hex tool at the head tube and bottom bracket area respectively. 2. Following the manufacturers’ recommendations, sever the rear brake hose and disconnect the rear derailleur cable if equipped.
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5. Loosen and remove the four lateral screws that mount the leaf spring assembly to the front triangle 6. Loosen and remove the main pivot screw and cap using a T30 torx tool.
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7. Remove the main pivot axle using an 8mm hex tool. 8. Pull the leaf spring module free of the frame. Keep a hand underneath the main pivot area to catch the washers and o-rings.
Main Pivot Bearing Replacement 1. Remove the leaf spring module as directed starting on page 42. 2. The main pivot bearings in the leaf spring module are removed by using a small diameter drift punch (up to 1/4”). The quill between the bearings has opposing slots that the punch fits into for striking.
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3. Once the old bearings are removed, thoroughly clean the bearing bores in the pivot yoke with isopropyl alcohol. As with removal, there are a few different techniques that can be used to install the bearings. We recommend using an arbor press, but a bench vise, or even a piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers on either end will do the job.
Swing Link Bearing Replacement 1. Remove the swing link assembly from the frame as directed starting on page 37. 2. All bearings in the swing link are removed by tapping or pressing them outboard, away from the centerline of the frame. The upper pivot bearings in the swing link are removed by using a small diameter drift punch (up to 1/4”).
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3. The seat tube bearings in the link are removed by pressing them outward, away from the centerline of the frame. The best tool for this job is a dedicated bearing removal tool, but using a common socket and extension will work easily as well. Find a socket that has an outer diameter that will just barely pass through the hole in the aluminum link and fully contact the bearing.
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4. Once the old bearings are removed, thoroughly clean the bearing bores in the link with isopropyl alcohol. Similar to the main pivot bearings, there are a few different techniques that can be used for installation. We recommend using an arbor press, but a bench vise, or even a piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers on either end will do the job.
Swing Link Reinstallation 1. Prepare to reinstall the upper link by fitting new 1.5 X 19mm inner diameter o-rings to the washers to be installed between the link and the seat tube. The easiest way to do this is to lay the washer on a flat surface with the flat side down.
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3. Prepare the conical pivot hardware components by completing the disassembly. Using a 6mm hex tool and a 10mm wrench or socket, disassemble the outer pivot caps from the cone axles and preload screw: 4. Insert the pivot axles, washer and preload screw into the seat tube pivot as shown. Do not apply thread locker to the preload screw, do not grease the conical axles.
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5. Install the two outer pivot caps as shown. Apply medium thread locker and torque to 11N-m (97in-lb) using a 6mm hex tool: 6. Install a new outer pair of o-rings onto the caps (1.5 X 19mm inner diameter):...
Leaf Spring Module Reinstallation 1. Before reinstalling the leaf spring module, verify that the 8 T30 torx fasteners are at or above 12Nm torque. 2. Insert the leaf spring module into the down tube recess and install the 4 lateral screws using medium strength thread locker.
Rear Triangle Reinstallation 1. Prepare to reinstall the rear triangle by fitting 4 new 1.5 X 19mm inner diameter o-rings to the 4 washers to be installed between the linkages and the rear triangle (these 4 washers are identical). The easiest way to do this is to lay the washer on a flat surface with the flat side down.
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3. Apply light grease to the upper pivot axle (the shorter of the two) and install through the link and thread into the rear triangle two full turns. Do not fully tighten at this time. 4. At this point it may be easier to reinstall the rear derailleur cable (if used) and rear brake line due to the extra space afforded by the partially connected rear triangle.
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6. Apply light grease to the main pivot axle and install using an 8mm hex tool. Torque to 12Nm. 7. Note the orientation of the teeth on the head of the main pivot axle. In order to install the pivot cap, a notch between the teeth must line up to the corresponding dimple next to the head of the axle (shown in blue).
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9. Apply medium thread locker to the pivot cap screws and install the screws with caps using a T30 torx tool. Torque: 10Nm (88in-lb). 10. Reposition the o-rings at the upper pivot and main pivot locations from the installation groove to the working position against the bearings using a pick tool, small flathead screwdriver, or similar.
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