1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. SPOT Manuals
  4. Bicycle Accessories
  5. Rollik 150
  6. Assembly instructions and maintenance manual

SPOT Rollik 150 Assembly Instructions And Maintenance Manual

Frame
Hide thumbs
Table of Contents

Advertisement

Quick Links

Rollik 150 Frame
Assembly Instructions and Maintenance Manual
1

Advertisement

Table of Contents
loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the Rollik 150 and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Subscribe to Our Youtube Channel

Related Manuals for SPOT Rollik 150

Summary of Contents for SPOT Rollik 150

  • Page 1 Rollik 150 Frame Assembly Instructions and Maintenance Manual...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    Table of Contents Warnings and Precautions Component Compatibility Chart Tools Required for Assembly of Components onto Frame A. Geometry Adjustment B. Internal Dropper Seatpost Routing C. Rear Brake Hose Routing D. Rear Derailleur Cable Routing E. Bottom Bracket Installation Tools Required for Maintenance Leaf Spring Related Precautions F.

  • Page 3: Warnings And Precautions

    Spot Brand for a referral to a qualified bicycle technician in your area. This guide covers the details specific to working with your Living Link™ frame. It does not address complete bicycle assembly, fitting, inspection, maintenance, or riding techniques.

  • Page 4: Tools Required For Assembly Of Components Onto Frame

    Assembly Tools Required: • Hex wrenches / bits, sizes: 5mm, 6mm • Torx wrenches / bits, sizes: T25, T30 • Torque wrench • Headset Press • Bottom Bracket Installation Tools—May vary by BB brand and model • High-Lubricity Waterproof Grease—We recommend Slick Honey •...

  • Page 5: Geometry Adjustment

    A. Geometry Adjustment The Rollik 150 frame incorporates a novel system to quickly adjust the geometry between two different settings or modes. The normal mode is useful as an all-around trail setting, providing a useful amount of pedal clearance for rocky terrain and nimble steering at most climbing and descending speeds. The low mode sacrifices some pedal clearance for a lower center of gravity and more precise steering at high speeds.
  • Page 6 3. Turn the shock pivot pin 1/2 turn (180°) using a T25 Torx tool. Direction of rotation does not matter: 4. Push upward on the oval shaped head of the shock pin to return it to its recess in the shock yoke and tighten the shock mount screw using a 10mm box end wrench.
  • Page 7 Mode Identification Once familiar with the operation of the geometry adjuster, a visual check should be enough to determine the geometry mode. However, it may be necessary to perform the adjustment to confirm its position. Normal mode– front edge of eyelet reducer lines up with front surface of yoke: Low mode–...

  • Page 8: Internal Dropper Seatpost Routing

    Install your internal dropper seatpost cable/hose before installing the bottom bracket assem- bly. Your Rollik 150 frame is supplied with a lead tube installed in place of the dropper seatpost cable/hose to ease installation. Please do not remove the lead tube until the dropper seatpost cable is installed.
  • Page 9 3. Continue to feed the seatpost cable/hose while gently pulling the lead tube from the port near the head tube. When the seatpost cable emerges from the port, remove the tape and store the lead tube in a safe place: 4.

  • Page 10: Rear Brake Hose Routing

    C. Rear Brake Hose Routing 1. Begin by installing the rear brake caliper and any applicable adapter if using a rotor larger than 160mm. Please note the Rollik 150 frame is not compatible with rotors larger than 180mm. 2. Route the rear brake line starting from the caliper- attaching it to the rear triangle using the supplied zip ties on the cable saddles, and the screw in the p-clip.
  • Page 11 2. Slip the supplied p-clip on the cable housing between the rear triangle and front triangle. Do not install the p-clip to the frame at this time: 3. Feed the cable housing into the port on the drive side of the down tube. It will emerge from the port on the non-drive side of the head tube:...
  • Page 12 4. Feed the cable housing though the headset until desired length is reached. Then secure p- clips to the frame as shown below.

  • Page 13: Bottom Bracket Installation

    E. Bottom Bracket Installation IMPORTANT: If using an internal dropper seatpost cable/hose, install the seatpost cable/hose before in- stalling the bottom bracket assembly 1. Ensure that the bottom bracket shell threads are clean, and that any internal seatpost cable/ hose has already been routed. 2.

  • Page 14: Tools Required For Maintenance

    Maintenance Tools Required For Rear Triangle Removal: • Hex wrenches / bits, sizes: 5mm, 6mm • Torx wrenches / bits, sizes: T25, T30 • Open ended wrench, Size: 19mm • 12-point socket or box end wrench, Size: 10mm • Torque wrench •...

  • Page 15: Leaf Spring Related Precautions

    Do not attempt to remove or modify the leaf spring! Doing so is likely to damage the leaf spring, hardware, and possibly the rear triangle itself. Any questions or concerns regarding the leaf spring should be directed to Spot: www.spotbrand.com sales@spotbikes.com...

  • Page 16: Rear Derailleur Hanger Removal/Replacement

    F. Rear Derailleur Hanger Removal/Replacement 1. Remove the rear wheel and the rear derailleur from the frame. It should not be necessary to remove the chain or cable/housing from the derailleur: 2. The derailleur hanger is removed using a T25 Torx tool on the external screw. When replacing the derailleur hanger, be sure to apply medium strength (blue) thread locking compound to the screw.

  • Page 17: Rear Shock Removal/Replacement

    G. Rear Shock Removal/Replacement 1. Using a 10mm 12-point wrench and a T30 Torx tool remove the nut and screw from the forward and rear shock mountings respectively. Remove both shock pivot pins: 2. Lift the forward end of the shock and pull it towards the front of the bike to free the rear eyelet from the shock yoke: 3.

  • Page 18: Rear Triangle Removal

    H. Rear Triangle Removal 1. Using a T30 Torx tool, remove the screw, drive side pivot cap, and o-ring: 2. Using a 19mm open end wrench, remove the non-drive side pivot nut and o-ring:...
  • Page 19 3. Using a T30 Torx tool, loosen the center screw until the head stands 10mm above the surface of the pivot axle: 4. Sharply strike the head of the center screw with a hammer. A drift punch can be used here to im- prove hammer accuracy.
  • Page 20 5. Insert an Ø8-10mm drift punch into the main pivot bore from where the drive side pivot axle was removed. Ensure firm, even contact with the inner face of the non-drive side pivot axle. Strike the drift punch sharply with a hammer to unseat the non-drive side pivot axle: 6.
  • Page 21 7. Remove the upper pivot bolt from inside of each shock stay at the upper link using a T30 Torx tool on both ends. The o-rings will come off with the upper pivot bolts: 8. Remove the shock yoke by sliding it forward away from the rear triangle. Place a hand underneath the shock yoke assembly to catch the pivot washers and o-rings from the inside of the yoke:...
  • Page 22 9. Once the shock yoke is removed, the rear triangle assembly can be separated from the frame. Place a hand under the upper link while pulling the rear triangle rearward to catch the inner wash- ers and o-rings from the upper link:...

  • Page 23: Upper Link Removal

    I. Upper Link Removal 1. Using a T25 torx tool and a 6mm hex tool, remove the screw, o-rings, and link axle from the upper link assembly: 2. Gently slide the upper link assembly rearward, keep a hand beneath the link assembly to catch the inner washers and o-rings:...

  • Page 24: Main Pivot Bearing Replacement

    J. Main Pivot Bearing Replacement 1. Set the rear triangle assembly on one side, on a work bench with a protective cloth to prevent scratch- ing the frame finish. Support the pivot yoke as shown by your 27-30mm ID plastic tube. Combine your 20-22mm outer diameter socket with an extension, drift punch, or other implement as shown.
  • Page 25 3. Once the old bearings are removed, thoroughly clean the bearing bores in the pivot yoke with isopro- pyl alcohol. As with removal, there are a few different techniques that can be used to install the bear- ings. We recommend using an arbor press, but a bench vise, or even a piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers on either end will do the job.

  • Page 26: Upper Link Bearing Replacement

    K. Upper Link Bearing Replacement 1. The upper bearings in the link are removed by pressing them inboard, toward the centerline of the frame. A spacer of some type is required in the center of the link in order to prevent damage. Combine your 13-14mm outer diameter socket with an extension, drift punch, or other implement as shown.
  • Page 27 3. Once the old bearings are removed, thoroughly clean the bearing bores in the upper link halves with isopropyl alcohol. Similar to the main pivot bearings, there are a few different techniques that can be used for installation. We recommend using an arbor press, but a bench vise, or even a piece of thread- ed rod with nuts and washers on either end will do the job.

  • Page 28: Shock Yoke Bearing Replacement

    L. Shock Yoke Bearing Replacement 1. The bearings in the yoke are removed by pressing them outboard, away from the centerline of the frame. Combine your 13-14mm outer diameter socket with an extension, drift punch, or other imple- ment as shown. Place the yoke on a short piece of PVC pipe or other means to support the bearing 2.

  • Page 29: Reinstalling The Upper Link

    M. Reinstalling the Upper Link 1. Prepare to reinstall the upper link by fitting new o-rings (1.5 X Ø13mm) to the washers to be installed between the link and the seat tube. The easiest way to do this is to lay the washer on a flat surface with the flat side down.
  • Page 30 3. Being careful not to drop the washers/o-rings, and carefully slide the link assembly foreward onto the seat tube at the pivot boss: 4. Reinstall the pivot axle, washer, and screw. Apply medium strength (blue) thread locker to the T25 Torx screw and torque to 8.5Nm (75in-lb):...
  • Page 31 5. Using a pick, small screwdriver, or even a fingernail, move the inner o-rings from the installation posi- tion outward into the sealing position as shown here: 6. Install the outer pair of o-rings (1.5 X Ø13mm):...

  • Page 32: Reinstalling The Rear Triangle

    N. Reinstalling the Rear Triangle 1. Stretch two upper o-rings (1.5 X Ø16mm) over the “ears” of the upper link to prepare for installation: 2. Install the upper pivot axles through the bearings from the inboard sides of the link. Position the pivot washers on the ends of them with the taper facing inward against the bearings.
  • Page 33 3. Slide the rear triangle assembly onto the upper pivot of the link: 4. Push the upper pivot axles through the bores in the rear triangle until they protrude slightly. Install the upper pivot washers on the ends of the pivot axles with the taper facing outward:...
  • Page 34 6. Install two new 1.5 X 19 o-rings around the eyelets of the yoke as shown, and insert the upper pivot washers into the bearing recesses from the inboard side. Note the washer orientation– the tapered end faces the bearing: 7.
  • Page 35 8. Install the outer pivot caps, apply medium strength thread locker to the M6 flathead screws and install using a T30 Torx tool. Be careful not to pinch the o-rings beneath the pivot caps. Torque: 11Nm (97in-lb) 9: Using a fingernail or pick tool, pull the o-rings into position as shown:...
  • Page 36 10. Install the remaining 1.5 x 19 o-ring pairs on the inside and outside of the upper pivot assemblies as shown:...
  • Page 37 11. Stretch two lower o-rings (1.5 X Ø19mm) over the hoops of the main pivot bearings to prepare for in- stallation: 12. Install the inner washers, with the conical faces outboard– flat faces inboard, into the inboard bear- ing recesses in the main pivot clevis. The o-rings will help hold the washers in position and vice ver- sa.
  • Page 38 13. Clean the two conical main pivot axles with alcohol before inserting into their bores in the frame. The longer, externally threaded axle goes in the non-drive side, and the shorter, internally tapped axle goes into the drive side: IMPORTANT: DO NOT GREASE CONICAL SURFACES OF PIVOT AXLES OR BORES IN FRAME! GREASE CAN ALLOW TOO MUCH FORCE IN THE FRAME FOR THE SPECIFIED TORQUE VALUE AND DAMAGE THE FRAME! 14.
  • Page 39 15. Pull the inboard o-rings into place between the pivot clevis and the frame: 16. Install the outer nut (19mm hex) on the non-drive side and pivot cap (T30 screw) on the drive side. Apply fresh medium strength (blue) thread locker to the nut and screw for installation. Torque: 6.5Nm (57in-lb) both sides:...
  • Page 40 17. Install the outboard o-rings (1.5 X Ø19mm):...

  • Page 41: Rollik Frame Parts Reference / Exploded View

    Rollik 150 Frame Parts Reference Now go shred!

Table of Contents