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ELMYRA 2 v2.1
by neutral labs
Build Guide
Elmyra 2 comes with all SMD components presoldered, and as such it is
a very straightforward build. Due to the large number of front panel
components, it will take some time though (1-3 hours depending on
level of experience). Some of the soldering will be in close proximity
to SMD parts, so care must be taken. The kit is intended for builders
of medium or advanced skill level, but can be completed by a motivated
and careful beginner (with some previous soldering experience). Please
read and follow the guide thoroughly!
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Summary of Contents for neutral labs ELMYRA 2
- Page 1 Build Guide Elmyra 2 comes with all SMD components presoldered, and as such it is a very straightforward build. Due to the large number of front panel components, it will take some time though (1-3 hours depending on level of experience).
- Page 2 Component List (common parts for Eurorack + desktop) Part ID Count Type Polarity matters? 10-pin power header Thonkiconn mono 3.5 mm switching socket + nut J5, J8-J47 long-legged 5-pin header (panel ports) J6-J7 LED 3 mm orange (orange body) D9, D10, D39, D40 LED 3 mm orange superbright (clear body) D3, D13, D16, D19 LED 3 mm green (green body)
- Page 3 Component List (desktop kit only) Part ID Coun Type Polarity matters? XH header XH power cable hex panel screw square nut for hex panel screw USB-C to USB-A cable Component List (Eurorack kit only) Part ID Coun Type Polarity matters? panel screw Eurorack power cable Step-by-step instructions...
- Page 4 This header is part of both the Eurorack and desktop version of the kit, as desktop version users may want the option to rack their Elmyra 2. It’s best to solder 1 pin first, correct the angle slightly if necessary, then solder the remaining pins.
- Page 5 Now flip the PCB over and put in the 9 switches (SW1-SW9) and their button caps without soldering yet! The red cap goes on SW4, all others receive a black cap. Insert the Thonkiconn sockets and pots. It is best to do this row by row, so you have enough space around the components.
- Page 6 The orange LEDs go into D9-D10, D39, D40. The red one goes into D42 and the green one into D41. The 4-legged RGB LED goes into D43. One of its legs is longer than the others, that one goes into the hole marked with a “+”.
- Page 7 Remove the module from the supports or case and lay it face down on an evenly flat surface. This ensures that the plastic pots are pushed back against the PCB. Solder the pins of all the pots now (both metal and plastic pots).
- Page 8 Now push the two 5-pin headers (J5-J6) into the slots on the front panel, so that they sit flush with the surface. For aesthetic reasons, they barely fit, so this may take some wiggling. Put some tape over the slots from the front side. Solder only the middle pin of each, taking care not to touch any of the SMD components in the vicinity with your iron.
- Page 9 If something’s not right upon power-up, it may be best to unplug the module from power immediately so as not to damage it (or the PSU), even though that’s pretty unlikely. Make sure to test the functions of all the potentiometers and buttons. Refer to the manual if needed.
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