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ELMYRA v1.1
by neutral labs
Build Guide
Congratulations on your decision to build the mighty Elmyra. Your life
will change forever due to this experience. If nothing else, you'll be
in possession of this wonderful machine that you likely did not
possess before. Unless, of course, this is not your first build, in
which case I need to tell you that you are a great person.
First of all, let's take stock of all the components that go on the
PCB (and 2 that go on the panel).
D are diodes, R are resistors, C are capacitors, U is the integrated
circuit and its DIP8 socket.
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Summary of Contents for neutral labs ELMYRA v1.1
- Page 1 ELMYRA v1.1 by neutral labs Build Guide Congratulations on your decision to build the mighty Elmyra. Your life will change forever due to this experience. If nothing else, you’ll be in possession of this wonderful machine that you likely did not possess before.
- Page 2 Bill of Materials - PCB Part Type Polarity Notes matters? D1, D2 BAT85 yes Distortion diodes. Can be substituted by BAT54. You may try other Schottky diodes as well, but regular diodes such as 1N4001 won’t have the same edge to it.
- Page 3 C10 (2) 1 µF yes There are two C10 on the PCB by mistake. One should have been C11, but it’s all good, they should both be 1 µF. ;) 0.1 µF yes Cx doesn’t go on the PCB, but on the panel (see below).
- Page 4 Begin by soldering the jumpers, resistors and diodes. For diodes, polarity matters! Now solder the IC socket. It helps to solder one pin first and then ease it in place. Pay attention to polarity. Do not place the IC in the socket while soldering! Most ICs are severely allergic to heat.
- Page 5 alignment again. Pay attention to IC polarity! Also, you may need to bend the IC’s legs the tiniest bit to make it fit. Next step: panel Now to place all components in their respective holes on the panel. You’ll need: Bill of Materials - Panel Part Type...
- Page 6 Populate the panel Now place all components in their respective holes. See this diagram (view from the back of the panel):...
- Page 7 Connect wires as shown. First solder the blue and red strands of wire to their pins. You don’t need to run individual wires, just use a single one for each colour per row and remove the insulation right where the solder points are. For the shape and env switches, if you use SPST, make it so that they’re closed in the up position.
- Page 8 The wires inside USB cables will generally be colour-coded. You only need to use the red and black ones as indicated above, but if you’re experieced, you may want to connect the others as well, so you’ll be able to update the ItsyBitsy without having to open your case. The other pins on the power switch connect to ground (off position) or 5V from your USB input (on position).
- Page 9 The 3 envelope LEDs all connect to ground on the shorter leg and get their individual wire to the PCB on the longer leg. The resistors for the LEDs are on the PCB, so no need to solder any to the panel as you did for the power switch.
- Page 10 Connect panel and PCB Now connect the wires from the panel to the header plugs as shown below. (e.g. JP1/05 goes to the MIX pot and JP2/07 goes to your audio out jack). For header JP1: ● 01 ENV LED 1 ●...
- Page 11 Elmyra gets power through the ItsyBitsy microcontroller via USB. Install a micro-USB socket on the back or side of your case (or just a regular USB cable with an A plug – simply cut off the other plug) and connect the power wire to the power switch and also to the ItsyBitsy as explained above.
- Page 12 If you need help or want to share photos, audio and/or video of your creations (please do), send a message to a dmin@neutral-labs.com IO pin reference For reference (e.g. for your own projects based on the same code), these are the IO pins used on the ItsyBitsy M0 Express: A0 audio out A1 touch 3 A2 touch 2...
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