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Urie G16 4-8-0t Instructions
Fig. 1.
The chassis can be built rigid or
compensated so decide now
which one you are going to make.
If building a compensated chassis
remove the sections from the
axle holes.
Fold the main chassis frames (1)
up and solder the frame spacers
(2, 3 & 4) in place making sure
everything is square. Solder an
8BA screw (36) into the hole in
the front
spacer (4).
Compensated Chassis - Solder the axle bearings (12) into the compensating beams (18).
Also solder bearings into the rear axle holes in the frames. Fit the compensating beams by
passing .70mm brass wire (16) through the frames, through one of the beams, then the
spring (19), then the next beam and finally out the other side of the chassis. Hold the
beams away from the chassis side while soldering the wire in place to prevent them being
soldered to the frames. Trim the excess wire flush with the chassis side. Repeat the
process for the second set of beams. Fit the wheels so you can test the compensating
mechanism and when satisfied that it works O.K. remove the wheels and put them to one
side.
Rigid Chassis - Solder the axle bearings (12) into the axle holes in the frames (1).
Both Types – Solder two 2mm bearings (6) into the rear holes of the cylinders (5). Fold
the cylinders into shape with the fold lines inside and solder into position. Shape the
cylinder sides (7) to match the cylinders and solder them in place. Fold the slidebars (17)
as shown and solder them together. Remove the strengthening pieces and then solder
them into the back of the cylinders. Solder the rear valve covers (22), front valve covers
(23) and piston end covers (24) in to the holes in the cylinders. Solder the rear guard irons
(25) to the bottom rear corner of the chassis. Solder the sandboxes (37) at the back of the
chassis 6mm from the rear of the frames.
Fold the front motion bracket (8) and solder in place. Fold the outside sections of the main
motion bracket (9) down. Fold down the front sections and then solder the bracket in
place.
Solder three lengths of the .70mm brass wire (16) into the holes in the chassis to form the
brake mountings (If you are building a compensated chassis, the wire must go through the
holes in the compensating beams). Take the brake hangers (13) and the brake blocks (14)
and solder the blocks to the hangers, making three L/H and three R/H. Solder the
assembled brakes to the wire 2mm from the frames. Pass more brass wire through the
bottom of the brakes, and then through the pull rods (15).
Fit 2mm bearings (6) into the bogie (21) and fold it up. The chassis can now be painted
prior to fitting the wheels.

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Summary of Contents for PDK Urie G16 4-8-0t

  • Page 1 Urie G16 4-8-0t Instructions Fig. 1. The chassis can be built rigid or compensated so decide now which one you are going to make. If building a compensated chassis remove the sections from the axle holes. Fold the main chassis frames (1) up and solder the frame spacers (2, 3 &...
  • Page 2 Fig. 2. The driving wheels can now be fitted permanently. (We recommend Markits specific G16 wheels which include crank pins). Assemble the coupling rods (26) as shown in the diagram. Take care in this operation as they must move freely for the compensation to work.
  • Page 3 Solder the cab rear (5) into its slots (Fit the rear doors (38) now, or open the recess to have the doors appear open). Take the cab sides (6 & 7) and the cab floor (8). Tack the cab floor into the slots in the cab sides. Fit this unit into the slots for the cab sides. Make sure it sits square and then solder in place and around all the seams.
  • Page 4 Form the cab roof (34) to match the cab front and rear. Solder it in position so that there is even overhang at the sides and the front and rear. Solder a piece of .7mm wire along the side edges and then form the strengthening ribs (35 & 36). If using the later roof shutter don't fit the rear of the two middle ribs (refer to fig.
  • Page 5 Two reversing bars are supplied, so that you can select forward or reverse gear. Solder together the reversing bar (54 or 55) and the reversing bar overlay (56). Check that the spigot on the L/H reverser (57) passes through the bottom of the reversing bar. Solder the reversing bar between the tank and the boiler, you can get at it from inside the tank, and the reverser to the running plate and the reversing bar.
  • Page 6: Chassis Parts List

    G16 Details Number 15in Unlined Later Cab Plain Snifting Valves Withdrawn Numerals Black Ventilators Stovepipes Number Livery Removed 09/1934 05/1938 05/1938 07/1941 12/1948 02/1953 12/1947 01/1959 05/1939 05/1939 05/1939 05/1939 09/1948 09/1948 09/1948 12/1959 09/1937 09/1937 02/1941 02/1941 09/1950 02/1948 02/1948 11/1962 08/1936...
  • Page 7 Body Parts List Main Running Plate. 28. Bunker Fronts. 55. Reversing bar (Reverse). L/H Valance. 29. Riveted Smokebox Overlay. 56. Reversing Bar Overlay. R/H Valance. 30. Riveted Smokebox Front. 57. L/H Reverser. Rear Buffer Beam. 31. Smokebox Step. 58. R/H Reverser. Cab Rear.